2021 Micro Minnie 2603BHS schwintek Issues... need help!!

[Bueller427]

we currently have our rv parked at a rv resort so we dont travel with it... if the slide has been open and closed 40 times id say that's a lot... anyway, I noticed that the slide has been retracting slower then normal,,, stopped midway on it own once.. and the batteries were from when we bought the rv [ 5 yrs old] so thinking its a battery problem I changed them out for a new 150AH lithium.

now with new lithium battery .. the slide out power light is lit but when I hit the in side of the rocker switch to retract... I get nothing? no clicking or anything...the slide is currently all the way out... any suggestions...

I know the lithium battery is at 100%

 

[Morich]

The trailer group is in a very tight situation when it comes to fixing trouble as we get almost NO omline info to guide us!
So each situation winds up having to search out the info on their specific trailer!

So I have no real info to look at or pass along, just a general idea of some things I have seen discussed here. But it may help?
There seems to be a very bad design on many of the trailer groups that is easy to spot, if we know where to look!
Just as an idea, trying taking a look at this recent post and drop down to posts 9 and 10 for what you may be fighting:

Slide Manual Crank Out? 2020 Micro Minnie 2108DS

I have a 2020 micro Minnie 2108DS and slide out will not extend on battery power or on shore power plug in. No sound at all from motor. Everything else works fine in trailer. Is there a way to manual crank out slider? Also any quick tips on what may be causing this or where to look to figure out...

www.winnieowners.com

You may have this or not, but it is a first thought for me when I read of electrical problems in the trailer group.
If you find this under the front frame of your trailer, let me explain why this is such a bad deal. Or you may not have this and can feel lucky!

Those connections are in a place where it gets lots of water off the street when we drive. In that lineup of connections, there are different type breakers and lots of connections. The power is less than 1/2 inch from the frame which is ground, so we get two problems if we have this setup.
When they get wet, the breakers may trip due to short circuiting to ground. We then have to find the tiny little red breaker witha button on the side to reset it.
Or the wiring may simply get wet and corrode to lose contact or have a full time short to ground!
It's a bummer for desing but if I had trouble, I wouold first look here to see if I have this and begin to look for trouble there and also look for a way to put a cover over this mess they have built for us!
Sorry, but that is about all I know and we get no online help to guide us!

 

[Bueller427]

thanks so much... will check it out and report back!

 

[dickb46]

Lifpo4 batteries do not have the cold cranking amps of a FLA battery or an AGM.
We put our slides in and out about 60-70 times a year every year and never have had a problem.

 

[AstroTom]

Odd, the lithium battery should be able to supply a minimum of 100 amps, even more for short period of time. If the battery is overloaded, the BMS will shut it down, and this apparently isn't happening. If it was me, I'd borrow some jumper cables, shut off the power to the rig at the post, disconnect the lithium, connect the trailer battery cables to the jumper cables, connect the other end to your vehicle's battery, and see if you can retract the slide using the vehicle's battery. Be very, very, very, careful not to short any terminals.

While the logical thing is to think the battery swap is the cause, or the lithium battery is at fault, sometimes, with electrical, things that are marginal, can fail when they are messed with. Before anything, check the ground at the frame, battery connections, and any fuses that may go to the slide. Start with the obvious and the simple, then try the jumper cable trick. Good luck.

 

[Bueller427]

that sounds like a good plan of attack. I really only will use the lithium to help move the slide in and out....or if the rv resort loses power..we do not travel with our camper.. it is constantly hooked up to shore power

 

[Amazonica]

we currently have our rv parked at a rv resort so we dont travel with it... if the slide has been open and closed 40 times id say that's a lot... anyway, I noticed that the slide has been retracting slower then normal,,, stopped midway on it own once.. and the batteries were from when we bought the rv [ 5 yrs old] so thinking its a battery problem I changed them out for a new 150AH lithium.

now with new lithium battery .. the slide out power light is lit but when I hit the in side of the rocker switch to retract... I get nothing? no clicking or anything...the slide is currently all the way out... any suggestions...

I know the lithium battery is at 100%

I had trouble with a different MM trailer model (2022 2108FBS FLX) Terminals mounted on the tongue, exposed to weather. Caused all kinds of problems, slide not moving, tongue jack and stabilizers not working. No sound, no nothing. All fuses were good. Got the terminals on the tongue moved under cover and now no problems at all. Two photos show my original tongue terminals and their condition, 3rd photo is looking up from the bottom. They're out of weather and can drain of any water splashes up (unlike before). Your situation may be totally different but this is something to check if everything else checks out.

 

[Bueller427]

thanks so much for all the info. will be the first thing I look at.. will update y'all with what I find!

thanks again
John

 

[Bueller427]

well, I checked the grounds... all looked well... checked the 10 amp fuse in the panel... was good
I took the switch plate off and looked at the toggle switch connections and used on them and the slide MOVED!!! I put it all back / screwed the plate back to the wall....... when I when to leave and tried to bring the slide in..... NOTHING!! ... so im hoping it just needs a new toggle switch. just ordered one from ETrailer..... $20 bucks!!!.. seems a little steep but I just hope it fixes the issue... the plate says 2020.. so im guessing the toggle switch is 6 yrs old...waiting on the new toggle

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/JR-Products/37213445.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1672411894&gbraid=0AAAAAD_vMtlNGku73Ca-T0BfJISQ_ln2o&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkrzPBhCqARIsAJN460ldCWh3nab1jpQvoFPnFSUJeIBzulz35iDde1Nje5tO2vdApjtrsGAaAnDlEALw_wcB

 

[Morich]

Rather than go to the trouble to change out the switch to test, this might be a time to do a pretty simple test of the switch? But which switch is suspect?
A picture of the switch from back would help to confirm my guesses!
But I think what you have should be simple enough to look at the connections on back and trace how they connect. Then if you use a meter to test that both battery and ground are getting from point to point, you can say if the switch is bad.
If it is the lower switch that turns power on/off, there is likely to be a wire bringing power to that switch and through the contacts to go out on another wire. That is likley easier to see and sort where to find test points.
What goes in has to come out!
But if it is the other switch which I would guess has 6 terminals on back, it may look much more difficult until we look closer. And being a more complex switch, that might be the first one for me to suspect!

Looks tough, but not too bad when we look at what they want to do? They have small DC motors to move the slide. To go out, the power and ground are sent to the motor on two wires we might call left and right? Then when we move it in, the power and ground have to be reversed to go out on right and left (using the easy names I made up?) !!!
That leaves me to guess that there are two center lugs that have wires going toward the motors to move the slide? But at one set of lugs, there should be battery on one and ground on the other side of that set. Then are there two wires that lead to the other end of the switch to reverse on two lugs there?
For ease of thinking, you have battery and ground to two lugs at one end and when the switch is pushed the correct direction, the two center lugs connect baterry and ground in one diorection to the motro but reversed isf we push it the other direction.
Clear as mud to talk about but not so tough if you look for that sort of wiring??

Crude idea and numbers of terminals may not match at all as different switch builders number differently!
Like a model railroad reversing switch if that is something you have done? If youy are not getting battery on one wire going to motr and then it change to swap battery and ground and if it doesn't do it relaibly and every time you move the switch from in to out, the switch contacts are very likely the problem and time to change the switch!

 

[jaywhite674]

we currently have our rv parked at a rv resort so we dont travel with it... if the slide has been open and closed 40 times id say that's a lot... anyway, I noticed that the slide has been retracting slower then normal,,, stopped midway on it own once.. and the batteries were from when we bought the rv [ 5 yrs old] so thinking its a battery problem I changed them out for a new 150AH lithium.

now with new lithium battery .. the slide out power light is lit but when I hit the in side of the rocker switch to retract... I get nothing? no clicking or anything...the slide is currently all the way out... any suggestions...

I know the lithium battery is at 100%

There are four resettable fuses on the tongue of your trailer, drivers side, just underneath. The furthest in the back has a tiny reset button on top. Push it in. If that doesn't work, look for corrosion on the same fuse connections. Mine were rusted and I had to clean them. I think the second one from the front gives the slide power as well. Lastly check the voltage of your batteries with a voltmeter. You want 13vdc for good slide operation. The lights on your master panel inside will always say full with lithium batteries since they are higher voltage than lead acid.

 

[klook]

After all that, I would find the slide controller. It is the device that takes the signal from the switch and actually drives the motors. The switch is not heavy duty enough for that task. The controller has heavier 12v wires running to it and will be fused separately. When you find it, look inside the little square opening in the face. If there is a flashing light, it will be one or two greens( motor #1 and motor #2) and followed by red flashes. Count the flashes and look on the face of the controller for the fault code......

 

[Bueller427]

should have taken s better picture of the wires to the toggle switch... will when I go back down there to our camper.... I didn't see any fuses on my tongue just bolts and wires attached to them? I will take a picture of that as well.. thanks so much for all the input on this.. very appreciated

 

[Morich]

Too bad we don't get actual online info to look over and see what to expect on the trailer group. That can leave room for lots of confusion.
And when we first look, that confusion is easy to find! So when you say you have bolts with wires, it may be part of the possible confusion if not spotting things correctly.
See post 7 above for what might be happening?
First picture on left shows the connections with red covers on. If no red covers, are they simply lost or left off? That would leave you to see "bolts" holding wires if not fully alert.
But if we look closer, there are small breakers between the bottom bolt and the top one.
So the question comes up, if this is what YOU have?? Possible the wire on the botton is one wire or metal strap buss bringing power to the lower bolt and then power should go through to the top bolt to meet the wire going out to some item in the trailer?
Those shiny things in the right hand photo above are variou types of breakers! Some can be reset, while other are more simple fuses which have to be replaced.
A meter is really needed to see where the power goes in and then it should go out to something!
If you have this setup, I highly recommend putting it in some better form of cover. Fishing tackle boxes seem to be handy to adapt and make watertight----once folks get the corrosion cleaned up!
Anybody here vote to slap the engineer who designed this nightmare waiting to happen?

 

[klook]

If you look at the fuse/breaker...some are self resetting and some have a tiny button between the posts, the post that is copper colored is the supply side and the shiny metal one is the load side.