2019 Winnebago Vista 27PE Bed Slide Binding

[Bryon Carpender]

Today our 1st outing this year 2019 Winnebago vista 27pe series 1

When we extended the rear slide king bed noticed was straining? Looking outside appears is binding on one side top of the slide left side also tearing the gasket wondering how do I get to this and adjust ?

Getting out the manuals next figured post early in case someone has come across this before
BryonC

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Very little in either of the manual’s electrical mostly, one page shows the general setup and troubleshooting but very general nothing about the bending or about how to get the motor and gear rail mount

 

[Morich]

Well, it looks like I may have jumped too soon on thinking they had gotten the new parts system worked out. Seems there are only limited functions working so far and electrical is not one of them on your RV!
So some guessing or questions may get it done but the hard way!
Sometimes there are different systems and ways that we need to use the slides. What I think you have on your RV has two small motors, one on each side of the slide where you see the gear like strip. It is normal for two motors to not match in speed exactly, so they build a bit of "slack" or "looseness" in the gear connection on the motor.
Is it possible that you do not hold the button just a couple seconds after the slide is all the way in or out? This can easily seem like a problem and we may avoid doing it as we don't want to force something?
But what can happen is the motor which works slightly faster, can get further and further ahead if we don't hold the switch for a bit after it appears the slide is fully out or in!
The design is such that we need to hold the switch letting the slower motor "catch up" using the slack/looseness built into the gear mounting on the motor.
Kind of flying on a guess but this looks like your slide has one side that has moved further and that makes the whole slide set at an angle.
One possible idea is to move the slide in and try holding the switch a bit at the end of the movement as a way to "reset" the system.
Maybe that fixes it?

But looking closer att the gear strip in your pictures, it seems some of those strips are bowing out from the slide side and that is not normal if I look at the others? Is that true or my eyes lying to me? If the strip is bowing out too far, that would seem to make it chew up the rubber gasket!
Mabe a combo of two issues? The motors not running totally together to stop at the same time and also the strip bowing out? Possibly not stiff enough or is it from excessive pressure from not running together?

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Possibly not really sure I did notice a bit erratic like straining which made look at it outside

Yes that one top left as you face it or inboard top gear strip is bent outward a good inch plus

 

[Lv2Roam2]

Take a look at your rollers under the slide - could be a skid plate or roller has come loose...

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Put up a ladder and checked maybe I’m overthinking this the top left rear bed gear plate is bent out more then a hand depth but only a bit more then the other gear mount plates are either against the slides or less then a hand depth

So decided to lubricate the plates and gears I’m thinking maybe dry and maybe over extraction?

See photos before lubricant application sorry jad a little bit of an issue with one handed and holding gasket and. Photos

 

[kamphiker2]

Your Side seals are pulling out from under the Vertical cover I have circled in red on the attached picture.
From my research (I have a 2020 Vista 27P with same slides etc.) the side seals are either a "Co-extrusion" where the soft "P" shaped seal & wiper flat seal are extruded on a hard plastic flat and that plastic flat part is pushed under the side vertical covers. OR the P seal & wiper flat seal are just glued to the hard plastic flat (I can't tell on mine for sure how the seals are made.
On my 27P vista I had to push as best I could the plastic flat back under the vertical trim cover and then used 3M automotive window trim adhesive to glue back in place. While on my vista not totally back in place, I could still see the hard plastic flat part starting to get in contact with the Aluminum teeth on the gear rack (mainly the Top ones). I could hear a click, click, click sound as the slide came in/out as the plastic was in contact of the teeth. I used a utility knife to trim a small notch in the plastic where it was in contact of the teeth (stopped the click sounds).
Also I used the same 3m Trim adhesive to glue the bottom side of the seal back in place of the flat plastic part where it was loose (Used tape to hold in place for 24 hours). While not factory perfect it is working to keep the seals from engaging the gear teeth on the Aluminum Rack. Really Important issue is to keep the rain water out of the top side areas that our Motors are located to prevent a failure.
Your King Bed slide like mine rest on top of a deck with drawers underneath and there are 2 metal plates the rollers (Or teflon/plastic) slide plates slide on top of the plates make sure the plates are smooth and show no gouging from foreign mater caught between the slide & the deck.
Suggestion from me, First clear the areas around the seals that come in contact with the racks both Outside and Inside (you have 2 seals one inside & one outside). Once certain no interference, Then with slide retracted do a "Re-sync" of the motors (Lippert has Youtube videos on how to do it). This will correct issues with slide not going out even on both sides.

Couple of observations from your pictures: 1) the top rack on the attached picture in my reply it looks like your rack is "Bowed" quite a lot. This could be a sync issue but if not addressed the stress on the rack will eventually either break the aluminum rack or the plastic mounting blocks of the Rack to the Side walls (Or the 4 screws that that attach the blocks to the Side walls.
2) your seals are letting a lot of "Stuff" bypass and getting behind the seals and perhaps the motor and/or worm gear that drives the racks. If the Motors fail when in the out position, I don't see enough clearance between the slide & the back wall to get a ratchet in place to manually retract the slideout.

I have NOT contacted Lippert about the correct side seals for replacement but in the near future will as I know my time is drawing close to replace. Lippert website only shows 2 different side seals for the slim rack and neither look correct. Generic ones "Might" work (like from Steel Rubber Products but are not the same).

 

[kamphiker2]

Anyone with the lippert slim rack, There is a aftermarket emergency repair and a upgrade to the plastic end blocks. "Little Enterprises " developed kite to address failure and proactive prevention. Youtube video very good info.

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Your Side seals are pulling out from under the Vertical cover I have circled in red on the attached picture.
From my research (I have a 2020 Vista 27P with same slides etc.) the side seals are either a "Co-extrusion" where the soft "P" shaped seal & wiper flat seal are extruded on a hard plastic flat and that plastic flat part is pushed under the side vertical covers. OR the P seal & wiper flat seal are just glued to the hard plastic flat (I can't tell on mine for sure how the seals are made.
On my 27P vista I had to push as best I could the plastic flat back under the vertical trim cover and then used 3M automotive window trim adhesive to glue back in place. While on my vista not totally back in place, I could still see the hard plastic flat part starting to get in contact with the Aluminum teeth on the gear rack (mainly the Top ones). I could hear a click, click, click sound as the slide came in/out as the plastic was in contact of the teeth. I used a utility knife to trim a small notch in the plastic where it was in contact of the teeth (stopped the click sounds).
Also I used the same 3m Trim adhesive to glue the bottom side of the seal back in place of the flat plastic part where it was loose (Used tape to hold in place for 24 hours). While not factory perfect it is working to keep the seals from engaging the gear teeth on the Aluminum Rack. Really Important issue is to keep the rain water out of the top side areas that our Motors are located to prevent a failure.
Your King Bed slide like mine rest on top of a deck with drawers underneath and there are 2 metal plates the rollers (Or teflon/plastic) slide plates slide on top of the plates make sure the plates are smooth and show no gouging from foreign mater caught between the slide & the deck.
Suggestion from me, First clear the areas around the seals that come in contact with the racks both Outside and Inside (you have 2 seals one inside & one outside). Once certain no interference, Then with slide retracted do a "Re-sync" of the motors (Lippert has Youtube videos on how to do it). This will correct issues with slide not going out even on both sides.

Couple of observations from your pictures: 1) the top rack on the attached picture in my reply it looks like your rack is "Bowed" quite a lot. This could be a sync issue but if not addressed the stress on the rack will eventually either break the aluminum rack or the plastic mounting blocks of the Rack to the Side walls (Or the 4 screws that that attach the blocks to the Side walls.
2) your seals are letting a lot of "Stuff" bypass and getting behind the seals and perhaps the motor and/or worm gear that drives the racks. If the Motors fail when in the out position, I don't see enough clearance between the slide & the back wall to get a ratchet in place to manually retract the slideout.

I have NOT contacted Lippert about the correct side seals for replacement but in the near future will as I know my time is drawing close to replace. Lippert website only shows 2 different side seals for the slim rack and neither look correct. Generic ones "Might" work (like from Steel Rubber Products but are not the same).

Awesome thank you got it back in after adding lubricant to glides seemed to help got it back in .

My concern is how do I service this as there is no access to the motor the mounting plate appears to be viewable as well as the catch?

Im
Also guessing it was overextending on one the one side thanks for the input will review my photos
To see what you are you describing

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Anyone with the lippert slim rack, There is a aftermarket emergency repair and a upgrade to the plastic end blocks. "Little Enterprises " developed kite to address failure and proactive prevention. Youtube video very good info.

Cool thank you

 

[Bryon Carpender]

let the king slide out half way, after watching the little enterprise small rail upgrade I’m assuming this works similar to a belt drive on my custom made 8020 3D printer

So I’m thinking the left top inward side has settled a bit and is putting pressure on the guides wow how cheap are those parts the upgrade is expensive, however like it fixes the problem except for me it’s times 4 sets for the one slide

Thinking the one top outside pin rail mount maybe it’s not moving so another shot of lube on all those pins
And line the rails agin before the motor
Brought all my slides in again

More photos their is some corrosion or staining on the upper outside mounts pins 4 notched outside and 4 flat inside I can see the motor and rail and no gap so I’m assuming that pin on the outside mounts is stuck all the way out the inside is flush rails
Ordering the repair kit before o mess with it

 

[Bones2003]

I have noticed similar issues on my slides with the same slideout system. There are several things that seem to help for me.
1) Make sure the RV is level. Any twisting stress on the frame seems to make things worse.
2) Lubricate the tracks with silicone spray. Other lubricants might attract dirt and grit. Spray into the rubber seals to get the motor gears if possible.
3) With the slide out, fold down the bottom rubber seal. You can see the rollers underneath the slide. Lubricate those too.
4) Inside under the foot of the bed at the corners are two carpeted pads. Make sure there is no debris or clutter around those pads to snag things.
5) With the engine running to provide extra juice, bring the slide all the way out and continue to hold the button for several seconds once it is out as MORich has already mentioned.
6) Bring the slide all the way in and continue to hold the button again.
7) Repeat 5 and 6 one more time.

These steps help me but being level is the most important.

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Ordered the upgraded brackets for the rails pricey but I’m thinking that top left inward rail is binding as I can put my gorilla hand under that rail due to the bowing the other one into the knuckle only

Also as suggested going to reset / sequence the slide
Thanks

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Still waiting on upgrading the hardware but running out of time

Went and secured the bed slider in place with a lift jack had to add another 18”
Moved it out about 20” so I could access both side of the slim rack removed flat head and pan head screws after removing trim then removed all the hardware and removed the motor held on with a spring and the rest of the screws removed the the brackets and rubber trim also re Rtv applied to the gaskets then the whole rack comes out one piece

Cleaned and inspect interesting the so called springs are just very spongy foam works ok
Relubed all the parts with slider line

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Clean and Inspected the gears and racks found nothing wrong or obvious? Blew out everything with air found a small piece of the foamy rubber see can ? Humm could have been the issue also on the inside found that a pile of filings on the inside rail suspect from drilling clean ip and blow out the frame.

One
Thing I forgot to do, Measure the opening before removing the parts duho noticed once the rack was back in there is an obvious tilt and definitely not plumb or level the rack housing is a piece of aluminum square with the outside back in the original mounting and screwed back in the original positions the inside was not uniform Humm used an air bag inflated and set composite shims in the gap this also allowed the wire to fit in the gap
Interesting part the screw holes lined up again with a little bit of torque
Put the hardware back in place and the top rack is now almost flush Humm fixed

Installed a silicon straw in that rubber wiper and applied rtv fixed

One problem got carried away when reattach the gasket to the bracket the cover maybe be a bit tight now.
See photos
BryonC

 

[Bryon Carpender]

The other interesting thing those foam rubber springs under the hardware are not flush or extend past the hardware another possibility
So my conclusion one
The assembly was not square in the opening
Foamy square may have been in the gear the opening may have been too big slightly oversized because the bed slide was undersized and metal filling in the gears etc
Hopefully this helps the next person
BryonC

 

[Bryon Carpender]

Still need the Little Enterprise heavy duty upgrade kit, for some reason taking over 3 weeks to get the parts? inquired he said waiting on the Anodizing and return of the Parts Supposed to be In June 2nd

problem is this upgrade may have to wait until mid july Major Bummer. The good news is the existing hardware looks ok no cracks in the rails Yet!

Did make sure to measure the rail distence from hardware to Drive box so it went back in the same distance it was positioned out

Once i have the Update hardware will provide feedback onthis exspenvie upgrade
crossing fingers
BryonC