2015 Winnebago ERA 70 Solar Install

hphock

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2023
Posts
22
This is a quick and dirty post of our solar install. We didn't find a lot of info in one place, but what we found in this forum was a huge help.

After deciphering how the battery boost, coach battery relay, and wiring for how all this interacted, what we found was easy to work with once we had a plan.

We ran a new 4 gauge red battery (welding) wire from the 4 pole Positive to the input side of the battery disconnect relay (located under the passenger seat). See Photo. We chose 4 gauge as that's what was used both by Mercedes and Winnebago.

Next, we disconnected wire KE from the Battery Boost toggle switch. We connected wire KE (this wire becomes energized when the engine turns on) to the Ignition input on the DC-DC MPPT Charge Controller. We also ran a 4 gauge wire from the starter battery back to the DC-DC MPPT Charge Controller as this allows the alternator/starting battery to charge the coach batteries as we drive.

Using a hydraulic rolling car jack and some blocks of wood, the battery boxes were removed from the coach and the AGM batteries were removed.

To fit the 4 Renogy 100ah lithium batteries, we used the 2 existing AGM battery boxes with a few modifications so the batteries would fit.

Each box consisted of:
1) the bottom plate being inverted, and 2 screws were added in the back to keep it level.
2) a 16 gauge plate (13" x 12"), of which a 1/2 inch of the plate was bent to 90* to keep the batteries in place. The plate was tack welded onto the bottom plate.
3) brackets were added to keep the batteries firmly mounted and in place.
Each box is now about 2 lbs lighter with the new batteries and modifications, than when the box held the AGM battery.

The small modification allowed the Renogy batteries to be placed side by side in the existing battery box. Using the hydraulic jack, we raised the boxes back up to the undercarriage of the van and reattached. When remounting the battery boxes, the drivers side had an obstruction so we had to extend the bolts about 1 1/2 inches. The obstruction was the 2 winterization drains (I added some cheap hose to extend the drain) down past the battery.

I would have gotten pics of all this but it was raining on and off so I was in a bit of a hurry - I'll get pics if someone asks.

The rest of the coach wiring was per the attached (but hard to follow) schematic. We ran the Solar Panel wiring down the chase that's in the closet and the solar disconnect is where the OEM inverter was located. From there the wires go over to the DC-DC MPPT Charge Controller. All the other components are in the same space as the water heater and furnace (that side).

As I mentioned, I will attach more photos when I can.

Thanks to all who helped me chase down wires and figure out how to best do the install!
 

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Last edited:
More photos

More photos. If you need clarity, just ask.
 

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Is that the Renology print? Always finding each company has a slightly different way to draw things out and that seems to really be much easier to sort than many I have looked at.
What I always find is that we have to set ans stare off into space for a while until we get the wire by wire clear and then the big question can be whether it will all fit!

Looks like a good job from here.
Now are you ready to get out there and use it??
 
I took the Renogy and modified it for my use. The Renogy was really basic. Truth is I moreso used the Explorist.life schematic in the beginning. Several items were different but the concept was the same. We didn't need the lynx distributor (we used bus bars and inline ANL fuses) and we had a Dc-DC MPPT charge controller in one unit, not 2 like on the explorist. Instead of the Victron dongle, we have a bluetooth connection from the Dc-Dc charge controller. Our batteries are 4x100ah each, not 6x100ah or 4x270ah each like the Battleborn (severely space limited otherwise we would have gone with 4x200ah batteries)
 
Quick edit. With the above mentioned system, the existing OEM battery cables (I think 4 AWG) - specifically the long jumpers to/from passenger and drivers side, and the existing long positive run from the OEM AGM batteries to under the passenger seat to the relay need upgraded to 1/0 minimum. I would use 4/0 so if you decide to go with a 3k inverter later, you can upgrade much easier (no need to rerun a massive cable underneath). If you don't upgrade these cables, it's quite probable that you'll end up with a decent voltage drop. Also, It would be easier and cheaper to create a new ground on the chassis near the batteries - This needs to be the same size as all the other wires 1/0, 2/0 or even 4/0.
 
Last update (for now) on the solar install. The roof install.

We used Sprinter Van Roof Rail Slide Kit (https://rbcomponents.com/products/sprinter-van-roof-rail-slide-kit?variant=42642796304) (2 per solar panel in our case) to affix 80/20's T slot 1050 profiles (each 55 inches long) (https://8020.net/1050.html) . We also had cut some 30" long pieces of the 1050to mount to the slides to extend the rear panel past the slide rail, and the front panel, forward of the slide rails.

We had to take a Dremel and cut out part of the sprinter's passenger side roof rail to drop in the slide kit due to the awning also utilizing the passenger side rail.

In the front, due to the awning, we couldn't use the Sprinter Slide rail, so we affixed a 1"1"x28" aluminum angle to the awning mount extending forward past the slide rail. Since this extended beyond the end of the slid rail, the 1050 was mounted in a way to extend forward beyond the slide rail as well. The rear panel extended beyond the slide rails as well and the 1050 was utilized the same way there.

We used the solar gland from Renogy where the wiring goes through the roof. We used butyl tape, stainless screws to affix the gland to the roof and prevent leaks, then liberally caulked around the gland. The solar panel electrical wires drop into the area in the closet, we ran them (between the closet roof and the insulation of the roof) to the wire chase in the closet. From there, they follow the plumbing vent and a lot of OEM wires to behind/under the drawers. Where the OEM inverter was located, we installed the solar disconnect - figuring we don't need readily access to it very often. (photo of disconnect above in thread)

Things that make life easier, but do add a little cost - using the slide in T-Nuts sold by 80/20 as well as ordering the screws from them. Always order a few extra slide ins and screws. Make sure you order screws that will fit all the items being attached - The lock washer, the solar mounting plate, mounting the track to the the other track, these are varying lengths. I found 12mm to be the happy medium when mounting the panels to the track (so I used M6 and 12mm screws and nuts).

I also went through 2 small tubes of Blue Loctite - any bolt/nut that was outside the vehicle got Loctite. Battery mounts/nuts, all the hardware on the solar panels (and I do mean ALL).

After all this, it reminds me how we NEVER use the areal antenna, rarely use the AM/FM on the Jensen. We only use the TV on the counter for Netflix etc. We ALWAYS comment how we wish they didnt put the TV there since we can use a tablet the same way, without losing counterspace. Had the TV antenna not been there, we coulda put in a 4th panel.

3 Renogy 175 Panels (https://www.renogy.com/175-watt-monocrystalline-solar-panel/)
1 Renogy Solar entry gland (https://www.renogy.com/solar-double-cable-entry-gland)
6 pieces of 55 inches 80/20 1050 T slot (https://8020.net/1050.html)
3 pieces of 80/20 1050 T slot 30 inches
1 piece of aluminum angle 1/8" thick, 30 inches
A lot of M6 screws (10mm, 12mm and longer)
A lot of M6 Slide In nuts (https://8020.net/3873.html)
Blue '242' Loctite thread locker
Lots of split ring lock washers
Butyl Tape (NOT PLUMBERS PUTTY!!!) (https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-8-In...pcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1S57KNZPNGJP4)
Sikaflex 715 Semi Self Leveling caulk (https://usa.sika.com/en/industry/transportation/rv/adhesives-sealants/roof-sealing/sikaflex-715.html)
Solar Connector Kit (Includes the 3 to 1 Branch connectors, tools and such) (https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Connector-Crimping-Connectors-Parallel/dp/B0928F9CR9)
10 ga Solar PV cables (https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Exte...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1)
 

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Renogy Inverter/Charger

I saw some negative reviews about the Renogy charger/inverter not doing a good job of supporting passthrough current when users were hooked up to shore power. It the particular issue seemed to be when trying to draw heavy loads like starting/using the AC unit. Have you had any issues when plugged into shore power?
 

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