Howdy all. Paul and Amy. We've been camping in a low roof work van with a bed and storage for over 11 years. We're older now and want to stand up to get dressed and not run across the campground to tinkle. This 2014 Vista has issues but the price was right and low mileage. Only 30K on the clock. Drivetrain is solid. Newer tires. Drove it 7 hours home in some serious wind and it drove fine I guess. It did sway and blew around a bit but I expect that. Been looking at the sway bar mod? There seems to be parasitic draw on the coach battery as it dies overnight but it charges and is fine all day while driving. There is some water damage in the rear storage that looks like it came up from the bottom from driving in the rain. Good thing we're handy. The seal where the roof tucks into the edge rail needs to be redone. Front marker lights on top don't work. Backup camera works but looks funky. PO says they did a new camera and screen so it must need a new cable ran. Lord knows where that goes. It was 8 degrees yesterday so we didn't test the slide or any water systems or the awning. (my choice. Didn't want to risk tearing seals or the awning.) It does appear to be properly winterized. Fingers crossed. Price was so good I'm not worried about replacing some things anyway. We're just minutes away from Brown County State Park in Indiana. GO PACK! GO IU! FOREVER TWO WHEELS!
2014 Vista 26HE: First Impressions, Repairs, and Troubleshooting
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Original Member Title: What have I done?!? 2014 Vista 26HE
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A member shares their recent purchase of a 2014 Winnebago Vista 26HE, highlighting its low mileage and solid drivetrain but noting several issues: sway in high winds, parasitic battery drain, water damage in rear storage, roof seal cracks, non-working marker lights, and a backup camera with a poor image. The community responds with practical advice, emphasizing the importance of addressing leaks and roof seals immediately to prevent further damage, and provides links to wiring diagrams and...
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Morich
Senior Member
Looks like a major step up and one I would like. We had a 2015 vista 31 KE and it always had some things I would have changed. As mentioned there was some road sway but I'm kind of trained to expect that on lots of things I've driven, so never bothered.
Looks like a good time to set some list of what you might want to take care of first. Anything that is leaking is one I like to get on as that leads to more damage.
One big point when first moving from van to RV is how much more hazard there is to leaking and how many more places you have to watch! Cars are designed not to leak where it seems RV are designed to be a real problem!
Every place where anything goes through the walls or roof is a place to check often and not let it go until next year!
A loose seal around a tail light, etc. can let water in and it can follow the wire to the next wooden point where it set inside, out of sight until things get really bad! Watch close, seal often!
For info, we can lead/point to some good stuff to tell lots about the wiring. Table of Contents
Look here for info on the camera wiring?
Page 7 at upper left shows it goes along top left side to front. But before jumping to bad cable, how's the experience level at testing wires? Can you see the camera coax as two wires, one outer braided and an inner solid wire? Testing with an ohmmeter can show you most faults you are likely to find. If you can get behind the front monitor to disconnect the coax there, it should test much the same as a normal two wire cables for shorts, grounds or other problems. Kind of a trick to get a new wire in there, so I would lean toward testing the coax before jumping to swap it out!
Page 8 of that drawing show where to expect the front end but clear as mud on EXACTLY where under the dash!
Tell us what you might want to start on and we may be able to point to other info. No need to stress the mind on the whole ball of confusion.
Most of us only get to one problem at a time! Wish you luck on the new trek, sometimes it just takes a lot of work to get to the fun part! But Winnebago does do a pretty good job of posting help info!
One super big place to boggle the mind is how different a motorhome is from the normal van on the electrical systems as there are what I call three different parts that connect and disconnect at different times for different uses. Figuring out how to keep the two battery groups charged to avoid running down to damage is a big one to get straight as it does have many tricky small points.
Watch the charge carefully until getting a handle on what to expect!
Looks like a good time to set some list of what you might want to take care of first. Anything that is leaking is one I like to get on as that leads to more damage.
One big point when first moving from van to RV is how much more hazard there is to leaking and how many more places you have to watch! Cars are designed not to leak where it seems RV are designed to be a real problem!
Every place where anything goes through the walls or roof is a place to check often and not let it go until next year!
A loose seal around a tail light, etc. can let water in and it can follow the wire to the next wooden point where it set inside, out of sight until things get really bad! Watch close, seal often!
For info, we can lead/point to some good stuff to tell lots about the wiring. Table of Contents
Look here for info on the camera wiring?
Page 7 at upper left shows it goes along top left side to front. But before jumping to bad cable, how's the experience level at testing wires? Can you see the camera coax as two wires, one outer braided and an inner solid wire? Testing with an ohmmeter can show you most faults you are likely to find. If you can get behind the front monitor to disconnect the coax there, it should test much the same as a normal two wire cables for shorts, grounds or other problems. Kind of a trick to get a new wire in there, so I would lean toward testing the coax before jumping to swap it out!
Page 8 of that drawing show where to expect the front end but clear as mud on EXACTLY where under the dash!
Tell us what you might want to start on and we may be able to point to other info. No need to stress the mind on the whole ball of confusion.
Most of us only get to one problem at a time! Wish you luck on the new trek, sometimes it just takes a lot of work to get to the fun part! But Winnebago does do a pretty good job of posting help info!
One super big place to boggle the mind is how different a motorhome is from the normal van on the electrical systems as there are what I call three different parts that connect and disconnect at different times for different uses. Figuring out how to keep the two battery groups charged to avoid running down to damage is a big one to get straight as it does have many tricky small points.
Watch the charge carefully until getting a handle on what to expect!
Wow thanks for the link! I've been researching but hadn't seen wiring diagrams yet. Very helpful. The camera works so it's way at the bottom of the list. Parasitic drain on the coach battery is at the top. Going to break out the multi meter and start pulling fuses and hopefully narrow it down. I've watched a hundred videos on re-doing the roof seals and that's #1 as soon as it warms up. They're not wicked bad but they are cracking. The water damage in the rear storage will probably be next. It's still pretty solid but needs to be dealt with and sealed up. Where is the best place to order genuine Winnebago parts? Straight through Winnebago? I haven't got that far yet.
Morich
Senior Member
Okay, lots of info that may help. I can ignore most anything but If I can't find it, I have a hard time deciding what to ignore!
So a good place to start on finding/knowing about parts is this interactive parts setup:
choose the RV, choose the section like electrical, etc. and then you can zoom, scroll or drag to turn the view to get down to the exact area or part!
On the right is a list of Winnebago part numbers! Once you have that number, I go shopping online for price!
Search by part number can often turn up several different places to go for parts. Winn and Lichten(?) in Iowa are go to places but you may find it other places at better price/shipping combo, so I do some looking. If you find it on something like E-bay, you may get lucky and pay half price? Part of the game and depends on the normal trek!
Big hint may be to go to the lower left, click on a plus sign and then click on a part that you may want to keep centered? Doing that should pop that part to center and keep it there as you turn/rotate the RV around that specific point. Sounds silly but helps a great deal if you can keep from losing the part! However, it needs to be done BEFORE zooming too much.
so maybe you spot the name of the part on the list but have no idea WHERE? Clicking repeatedly on the name makes it flash in yellow on the drawing and that yellow flash can make it easier to spot?
Takes some play to get it down but it can be a big help!
On battery drains, you likely have hidden drains which can trick us. Some are safety items like CO and propane detectors and they DO NOT want those turned off, even if you use the battery disconnect switch! No coming back to an RV full of gas, so they leave the detector on!
The way this gets us in trouble is when we turn the disconnect on and think there is no way the battery will drain while we store it. WRONG and truly one that catches most newer users!
Don't want to blow the brain all in one trip, but this is a quick rundown on a vital area for your batteries:
You are in an Rv that was about when they made a big change from a mechanical relay to connect coach and chassis batteries at different times. That means I don't know if you have less complex mechanical or the later solid state. Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) or solenoid? But solenoid is easier to draw out and spot how they both work on this drawing. When you get down to it, you can peek to see which you have?
But for the idea of safety wiring, this is the plan that shows the safety items do not go through the disconnect relay!
Black wire comes from disconnect switch to control the relay at right side. When relay is closed power from coach (RED?) comes in on left goes through relay to go out to RV to power various items. Wire GJ is power to safety item and doesn't go through relay, open or closed! Stays hot full time to try to drain battery!
Then as different issue, this shows the way the two battery groups connect./disconnect at different times. Not part of the drain question but an important thing to know when/if we have trouble.
Red (coach) meets green (chassis ) battery at tow different times. Whether you have the solenoid, often a silver metal can, or BIM which is a black plastic covered item that looks more like a small motor, maybe? Both do pretty much the same with much the same wiring but one is harder to follow on drawings!
Purple marked wire LR brings power from the front at tow times. That power goes through the coil in the solenoid to ground at the mounting screw! If that mounting screw gets loose, etc. this relay may stop working!
Lr getting power when we have the engine on, makes the solenoid close and connect coach to chassis battery as we drive. That lets us put some charge back into coach batteries we may have run down while camped without hookups!
OR
A second use is if we find the chassis /start battery is dead, we can push a button on the dash to get a "jump start" without getting out cables! That button also puts 12VDC on wire LR to close the contacts! BIM also does much the same, but I have to admit that I like to hear and see things work. Solid state works and last better but I can't see or hear it work!
Nuff said! Way too much for one day!
RV info is like steak? Really good if we take time to chew it. Really BAD if we try to choke down too much at one time!
Do it as it fits you!
So a good place to start on finding/knowing about parts is this interactive parts setup:
choose the RV, choose the section like electrical, etc. and then you can zoom, scroll or drag to turn the view to get down to the exact area or part!
On the right is a list of Winnebago part numbers! Once you have that number, I go shopping online for price!
Search by part number can often turn up several different places to go for parts. Winn and Lichten(?) in Iowa are go to places but you may find it other places at better price/shipping combo, so I do some looking. If you find it on something like E-bay, you may get lucky and pay half price? Part of the game and depends on the normal trek!
Big hint may be to go to the lower left, click on a plus sign and then click on a part that you may want to keep centered? Doing that should pop that part to center and keep it there as you turn/rotate the RV around that specific point. Sounds silly but helps a great deal if you can keep from losing the part! However, it needs to be done BEFORE zooming too much.
so maybe you spot the name of the part on the list but have no idea WHERE? Clicking repeatedly on the name makes it flash in yellow on the drawing and that yellow flash can make it easier to spot?
Takes some play to get it down but it can be a big help!
On battery drains, you likely have hidden drains which can trick us. Some are safety items like CO and propane detectors and they DO NOT want those turned off, even if you use the battery disconnect switch! No coming back to an RV full of gas, so they leave the detector on!
The way this gets us in trouble is when we turn the disconnect on and think there is no way the battery will drain while we store it. WRONG and truly one that catches most newer users!
Don't want to blow the brain all in one trip, but this is a quick rundown on a vital area for your batteries:
You are in an Rv that was about when they made a big change from a mechanical relay to connect coach and chassis batteries at different times. That means I don't know if you have less complex mechanical or the later solid state. Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) or solenoid? But solenoid is easier to draw out and spot how they both work on this drawing. When you get down to it, you can peek to see which you have?
But for the idea of safety wiring, this is the plan that shows the safety items do not go through the disconnect relay!
Black wire comes from disconnect switch to control the relay at right side. When relay is closed power from coach (RED?) comes in on left goes through relay to go out to RV to power various items. Wire GJ is power to safety item and doesn't go through relay, open or closed! Stays hot full time to try to drain battery!
Then as different issue, this shows the way the two battery groups connect./disconnect at different times. Not part of the drain question but an important thing to know when/if we have trouble.
Red (coach) meets green (chassis ) battery at tow different times. Whether you have the solenoid, often a silver metal can, or BIM which is a black plastic covered item that looks more like a small motor, maybe? Both do pretty much the same with much the same wiring but one is harder to follow on drawings!
Purple marked wire LR brings power from the front at tow times. That power goes through the coil in the solenoid to ground at the mounting screw! If that mounting screw gets loose, etc. this relay may stop working!
Lr getting power when we have the engine on, makes the solenoid close and connect coach to chassis battery as we drive. That lets us put some charge back into coach batteries we may have run down while camped without hookups!
OR
A second use is if we find the chassis /start battery is dead, we can push a button on the dash to get a "jump start" without getting out cables! That button also puts 12VDC on wire LR to close the contacts! BIM also does much the same, but I have to admit that I like to hear and see things work. Solid state works and last better but I can't see or hear it work!
Nuff said! Way too much for one day!
RV info is like steak? Really good if we take time to chew it. Really BAD if we try to choke down too much at one time!
Do it as it fits you!
HOLY SMOKES!! My job is CAD modeling and that's freakin sweet!! I can't believe Winnebago provides that. That's a dream come true for a handyman! Thanks for the info.Okay, lots of info that may help. I can ignore most anything but If I can't find it, I have a hard time deciding what to ignore!
So a good place to start on finding/knowing about parts is this interactive parts setup:
choose the RV, choose the section like electrical, etc. and then you can zoom, scroll or drag to turn the view to get down to the exact area or part!
On the right is a list of Winnebago part numbers! Once you have that number, I go shopping online for price!
Search by part number can often turn up several different places to go for parts. Winn and Lichten(?) in Iowa are go to places but you may find it other places at better price/shipping combo, so I do some looking. If you find it on something like E-bay, you may get lucky and pay half price? Part of the game and depends on the normal trek!
Big hint may be to go to the lower left, click on a plus sign and then click on a part that you may want to keep centered? Doing that should pop that part to center and keep it there as you turn/rotate the RV around that specific point. Sounds silly but helps a great deal if you can keep from losing the part! However, it needs to be done BEFORE zooming too much.
so maybe you spot the name of the part on the list but have no idea WHERE? Clicking repeatedly on the name makes it flash in yellow on the drawing and that yellow flash can make it easier to spot?
Takes some play to get it down but it can be a big help!
On battery drains, you likely have hidden drains which can trick us. Some are safety items like CO and propane detectors and they DO NOT want those turned off, even if you use the battery disconnect switch! No coming back to an RV full of gas, so they leave the detector on!
The way this gets us in trouble is when we turn the disconnect on and think there is no way the battery will drain while we store it. WRONG and truly one that catches most newer users!
Don't want to blow the brain all in one trip, but this is a quick rundown on a vital area for your batteries:
You are in an Rv that was about when they made a big change from a mechanical relay to connect coach and chassis batteries at different times. That means I don't know if you have less complex mechanical or the later solid state. Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) or solenoid? But solenoid is easier to draw out and spot how they both work on this drawing. When you get down to it, you can peek to see which you have?
But for the idea of safety wiring, this is the plan that shows the safety items do not go through the disconnect relay!
View attachment 2414506
Black wire comes from disconnect switch to control the relay at right side. When relay is closed power from coach (RED?) comes in on left goes through relay to go out to RV to power various items. Wire GJ is power to safety item and doesn't go through relay, open or closed! Stays hot full time to try to drain battery!
Then as different issue, this shows the way the two battery groups connect./disconnect at different times. Not part of the drain question but an important thing to know when/if we have trouble.
Red (coach) meets green (chassis ) battery at tow different times. Whether you have the solenoid, often a silver metal can, or BIM which is a black plastic covered item that looks more like a small motor, maybe? Both do pretty much the same with much the same wiring but one is harder to follow on drawings!
Purple marked wire LR brings power from the front at tow times. That power goes through the coil in the solenoid to ground at the mounting screw! If that mounting screw gets loose, etc. this relay may stop working!
Lr getting power when we have the engine on, makes the solenoid close and connect coach to chassis battery as we drive. That lets us put some charge back into coach batteries we may have run down while camped without hookups!
OR
A second use is if we find the chassis /start battery is dead, we can push a button on the dash to get a "jump start" without getting out cables! That button also puts 12VDC on wire LR to close the contacts! BIM also does much the same, but I have to admit that I like to hear and see things work. Solid state works and last better but I can't see or hear it work!
Nuff said! Way too much for one day!
RV info is like steak? Really good if we take time to chew it. Really BAD if we try to choke down too much at one time!
Do it as it fits you!
I think I've used the wrong verbiage. I thought it was coach battery and house battery but it seems they're the same thing. I should have said my chassis battery is going dead. I was able to hit the jump button and it fired right up and charged the chassis battery and is fine for hours but something kills it overnight. I've disconnected for now.
Morich
Senior Member
Yes, RV talk is full of different terms that may not always mean what we think! One problem is that Winnebago also has changed their "official" name at times!
If into CAD, lots of those controls will come much easier for you, perhaps.
Me? Not so much and I had to back out and start over more than a few times.
Now my wish is for a way to overlay the electrical where I live most with some of the other parts like cabinets. Sometimes I can see an inverter but I can't tell if it is behind a door or in a drawer. Under the sink on top of the floor or under and in an outside compartment!
Chassis battery will often have things like door locks, radio presets and other small things still left on to drain it slowly. Many times not noticed until we store and if that is left for several months the chassis battery dies an early death from running flat or if we charge full time it dies because of loss of water!
My ideal for lead acid batteries is to strap coach and chassis positive leads together, put a small charger on one to do both and then set up a timer system to turn the charger on for six hours, maybe one every couple weeks!
Enough to let them exercise from use but not go so low they die.
But then I still had to deal with loss of water. So now I would love AGM or other less water problems---but I sold the Rv before getting there!
If into CAD, lots of those controls will come much easier for you, perhaps.
Me? Not so much and I had to back out and start over more than a few times.
Now my wish is for a way to overlay the electrical where I live most with some of the other parts like cabinets. Sometimes I can see an inverter but I can't tell if it is behind a door or in a drawer. Under the sink on top of the floor or under and in an outside compartment!
Chassis battery will often have things like door locks, radio presets and other small things still left on to drain it slowly. Many times not noticed until we store and if that is left for several months the chassis battery dies an early death from running flat or if we charge full time it dies because of loss of water!
My ideal for lead acid batteries is to strap coach and chassis positive leads together, put a small charger on one to do both and then set up a timer system to turn the charger on for six hours, maybe one every couple weeks!
Enough to let them exercise from use but not go so low they die.
But then I still had to deal with loss of water. So now I would love AGM or other less water problems---but I sold the Rv before getting there!
Last edited:
sonny-WO
Advanced Member
I had a 2014 Vista and it was a bear to track straight - I added a heavy duty track bar and did a CHF and that helped especially when big trucks passed, previous owner had added a steering track bar - I sold that 26HE - loved the layout , but hated driving it - different tires might have helped and better shocks
Morich
Senior Member
coming back around this and note something you said that may need some thought?
When you get it to start better when you hit the boost switch to combine chassis and coach, that may be telling you something about the chassis battery. They seem so simple but we can miss how slow they work when we want to charge them.
If tying both batteries together starts the RV better, that is saying you are not getting enough power from the chassis battery alone. Simple enough but then we need to ask why!
Is it the chassis battery is not getting charged long enough? That can be an easy miss due to the way we may test the voltage if we don't consider it carefully.
Batteries are a very slow chemical reaction and that can mess with our mind!
We can put it on a charger and let it set for an hour, take the charger off and often see really god voltage. Possibly around 13 volts but then we need to keep in mind that 12.8 or so is as good as any lead acid battery will hold, so when we see higher, it is just the remains of the charging that has not become stable! Called "surface charge"!
One way to think of batteries is like we are pouring something really thick in a hole in a barrel. If we look while pouring the thick stuff, we see the barrel as full, even when empty! If we look too soon after stopping pouring, we may see a stack of the thick stuff as we look in the hole, but that is just a stack that sooner or later settles and maybe the barrel is full or maybe almost empty?
Lead acid may take 6+ hours to get fully charged and then we need to wait an hour or so to make sure it is settled before we trust the voltage reading. Slow chemical process that can't be rushed!
If we are not clued in and alert, we can trick ourself into thinking we have a much better super battery.
Where this may come in is if we charge a battery that is really down for an hour, then take the charger off and see 12.8 or more, we may think we got it full when it really is only full right at the hole/post where we can look.
But if we try to use it, the darn thing may go dry way too soon!
Not saying this is true but consider how and when you are charging and when taking the voltage as it is not a thing that will let you rush it!
Maybe the battery is old and just gone bad or maybe it just did not get the good full charge it needed to do the good stuff?
So simple but so tricky!
When you get it to start better when you hit the boost switch to combine chassis and coach, that may be telling you something about the chassis battery. They seem so simple but we can miss how slow they work when we want to charge them.
If tying both batteries together starts the RV better, that is saying you are not getting enough power from the chassis battery alone. Simple enough but then we need to ask why!
Is it the chassis battery is not getting charged long enough? That can be an easy miss due to the way we may test the voltage if we don't consider it carefully.
Batteries are a very slow chemical reaction and that can mess with our mind!
We can put it on a charger and let it set for an hour, take the charger off and often see really god voltage. Possibly around 13 volts but then we need to keep in mind that 12.8 or so is as good as any lead acid battery will hold, so when we see higher, it is just the remains of the charging that has not become stable! Called "surface charge"!
One way to think of batteries is like we are pouring something really thick in a hole in a barrel. If we look while pouring the thick stuff, we see the barrel as full, even when empty! If we look too soon after stopping pouring, we may see a stack of the thick stuff as we look in the hole, but that is just a stack that sooner or later settles and maybe the barrel is full or maybe almost empty?
Lead acid may take 6+ hours to get fully charged and then we need to wait an hour or so to make sure it is settled before we trust the voltage reading. Slow chemical process that can't be rushed!
If we are not clued in and alert, we can trick ourself into thinking we have a much better super battery.
Where this may come in is if we charge a battery that is really down for an hour, then take the charger off and see 12.8 or more, we may think we got it full when it really is only full right at the hole/post where we can look.
But if we try to use it, the darn thing may go dry way too soon!
Not saying this is true but consider how and when you are charging and when taking the voltage as it is not a thing that will let you rush it!
Maybe the battery is old and just gone bad or maybe it just did not get the good full charge it needed to do the good stuff?
So simple but so tricky!
It's got this stabilizer on the steering. I've been looking at the CHF and that makes sense to stiffen the sway bars and seems pretty easy. Might give it a try. It currently handles ok in my mind but I'm open to making adjustments to make it better.
Attachments
I may have figured it out. I tested for parasitic drain and it shows fine. Right on 50 milliamps. That first day we were in and out 100 times with the automatic steps going in and out. Next morning the battery was dead. I charged it up and we finally figured out to shut off the steps and just leave them extended while we're parked. We then found out that the steps run off the chassis battery. I'm thinking that leaving the steps on and active all night killed the battery. I know that shouldn't kill the battery but that's the only change we made and it's been fine ever since. I'll inspect it further. Got to clean out the generator carb jet to get that going and wait for the weather to warm up and start on inspecting water lines and such. We also figured out how to rewind the curtains so they go up and down like they're supposed to so that's a big win!!coming back around this and note something you said that may need some thought?
When you get it to start better when you hit the boost switch to combine chassis and coach, that may be telling you something about the chassis battery. They seem so simple but we can miss how slow they work when we want to charge them.
If tying both batteries together starts the RV better, that is saying you are not getting enough power from the chassis battery alone. Simple enough but then we need to ask why!
Is it the chassis battery is not getting charged long enough? That can be an easy miss due to the way we may test the voltage if we don't consider it carefully.
Batteries are a very slow chemical reaction and that can mess with our mind!
We can put it on a charger and let it set for an hour, take the charger off and often see really god voltage. Possibly around 13 volts but then we need to keep in mind that 12.8 or so is as good as any lead acid battery will hold, so when we see higher, it is just the remains of the charging that has not become stable! Called "surface charge"!
One way to think of batteries is like we are pouring something really thick in a hole in a barrel. If we look while pouring the thick stuff, we see the barrel as full, even when empty! If we look too soon after stopping pouring, we may see a stack of the thick stuff as we look in the hole, but that is just a stack that sooner or later settles and maybe the barrel is full or maybe almost empty?
Lead acid may take 6+ hours to get fully charged and then we need to wait an hour or so to make sure it is settled before we trust the voltage reading. Slow chemical process that can't be rushed!
If we are not clued in and alert, we can trick ourself into thinking we have a much better super battery.
Where this may come in is if we charge a battery that is really down for an hour, then take the charger off and see 12.8 or more, we may think we got it full when it really is only full right at the hole/post where we can look.
But if we try to use it, the darn thing may go dry way too soon!
Not saying this is true but consider how and when you are charging and when taking the voltage as it is not a thing that will let you rush it!
Maybe the battery is old and just gone bad or maybe it just did not get the good full charge it needed to do the good stuff?
So simple but so tricky!
Thanks for the reply and all your help!
Morich
Senior Member
Maybe look under the steps for a light that comes on when steps are out? That may have been the killer if it stayed on all night?
This learning stuff can warp our minds! Wish you luck!
This learning stuff can warp our minds! Wish you luck!
There's a light under there? Oh lawd... I'll check that.
Morich
Senior Member
Some do, Some don't! But the real problem is that we don't see it in daylight!
Nice to have when we come back after dark and the light comes on when we open the step.
NOT nice if we leave the steps out all day when we are on battery !
Nice to have when we come back after dark and the light comes on when we open the step.
NOT nice if we leave the steps out all day when we are on battery !
sonny-WO
Advanced Member
Yep I also had the same steering stabilizer on the front - CHF will help , and if needed after - better tires and Shocks will also make a difference ( which I did not do) . One good thing is that your coach is a Winnebago and back when Winnebago built a great unit. I came across a deal on a Class C and bought it.
RV_Lee
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2021
- Posts
- 980
You'll want to fix the roof lip pronto or the whole roof skin can blow off going down the road. From the factory all they have holding them in is Pro Flex sealant but I've seen loctite makes a clear sealant now, I think it would be better for the roof channels, or one of the sika products
Absolutly. My story gets crazy but, it's comical to me because i already knew what was wrong with it before I saw it. I knew all about the roof seals. The person I bought it from says he didn't have the owners/operators manual. He never got it. If you bought one new you know it's a huge bible of a book. Yesterday we found said Bible under the dinette seat. The original Ford folder and Winnebago organizer and a bunch of receipts from the original owner and the huge bible. There's been some problems and fixes done on this unit. Some bandaides that needed surgery a month later. Anyway, at some point the shower skylight was broken and replaced. The roof seal was redone on that side but not the other. The hydraulic leveling pump was rebuilt.Microwave replaced. One ticket says miceowave not working, reset breaker, microwave works. I have a few tubes of Geocal Proflex on order for the side seala and some self leveling silicone and we'll get the roof lined out. Today's battle was the generator carburetor. A brand new carb came with it but I've now learned about Chinese junk generator carbs and that's what I put in. Generator runs fine on starter fluid. Who really needs a generator anyway? If you truly want to be off grid for extended periods, these RV's are not the anawer.....
RV_Lee
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2021
- Posts
- 980
Generator is good for AC in the summer, its all I use mine for lol. The carb is probably clogged with green dust from them leaving it sit with ethanol gas in it, try to clean it out or give it a good run.
Morich
Senior Member
Not sure of where you are on engine work, so this may/may not be worth much?
I don't ever want to jump to the carb as a problem until I make sure the fuel is getting to it!
We get lots more scary stories about bad products that I can count but if folks are actually doing their thinking, they first need to make sure the carb is getting fuel!
Logic is often not a top priority for folks who are upset!
In my experience, a carb rarely "wears out" as they really don't have a lot of moving parts to wear. They can certainly get clogged easily, but then we might need to question why they might clog? It takes two simple things for a carb to work and both air and fuel need good clean filters! They need good clean passages in the carb as a second issue. But first things first!
If you disconnect the wiring to make sure the engine doesn't start, stick a finger down the carb throat while it cranks, you should get a wet finger! Old test method but if you want to stand back and be a bit safer, using something like a clean popsicle stick can work!
If the carb is not getting fuel into the throat, stepping back toward the fuel tank may be a good place to go!
One of the really good tools we need when doing repair is a brain that is fully awake. But I can't find one in my tool box!
I don't ever want to jump to the carb as a problem until I make sure the fuel is getting to it!
We get lots more scary stories about bad products that I can count but if folks are actually doing their thinking, they first need to make sure the carb is getting fuel!
Logic is often not a top priority for folks who are upset!
In my experience, a carb rarely "wears out" as they really don't have a lot of moving parts to wear. They can certainly get clogged easily, but then we might need to question why they might clog? It takes two simple things for a carb to work and both air and fuel need good clean filters! They need good clean passages in the carb as a second issue. But first things first!
If you disconnect the wiring to make sure the engine doesn't start, stick a finger down the carb throat while it cranks, you should get a wet finger! Old test method but if you want to stand back and be a bit safer, using something like a clean popsicle stick can work!
If the carb is not getting fuel into the throat, stepping back toward the fuel tank may be a good place to go!
One of the really good tools we need when doing repair is a brain that is fully awake. But I can't find one in my tool box!
RayIN
Senior Member
Kwikee brand steps are always "hot'" there is no shutoff switch. The controller switches the ground to reverse motor direction..
This should help with IDing your model# then diagnosing any problem: https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/exterior/kwikee_svc_manual.pdf
.
Got the generator dialed in and purring beautifully. I put the choke arm on pointing the wrong way and finnaly saw what I did. Rooftop AC blows cold. Chassis battery hasn't died. Waiting for weather to turn and begin on the wet systems. Thinking about a portable air compressor. We're excited to get out there!!
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