2014 Itasca Meridian Battery Upgrade

[wahoonc]

I can't find my original thread...

My OEM 2014 AGM batteries have reached the end of their useful life... all 6 of them.
I have contacted DMX power and they told me that if I upgraded my controller to an ME-RC-L I can program the necessary Lithium numbers into my Magnum MS2812. I will also be installing a Li-BIM. Right now the leading contender for the replacement battery is a Vatrer battery (possibly two, 460 ah) with internal heating. We are leaving out for a 6 day trip later this week, unfortunately I am still running my weak AGMs.
Parts have been ordered and will arrive and be waiting when we return.

Aaron

 

[wahoonc]

Batteries have been ordered along with the new ME-RC controller. I went with 2 x 300AH for a couple of reasons. One if a single battery craps out I can disconnect it and still function, second reason I needed a few more amps for the BMS to crank my generator.

In the meantime my ATS lost it's smoke while camping at the state park this past weekend. So now that is getting replaced too. I also have a noisy AC unit to deal with, ordered a new compressor fan blade and isolator kit for it, and the other unit which runs quieter.

Such is life as a millionaire DP owner.

Aaron

 

[Morich]

Always something, Right?
Not to say it WILL work but have you considered trying to save the transfer switch?
Looking from here it doesn't look all that fatal and I like to consider trying to save those dollars!
We might also use this picture as a "learning tool" if you don't mind?
I see a blackened spot at the point where the black wire was screwed down. Over time and considering all the bumps we take in a motorhome, that wire end gets jerked around under the screw clamping it down.
The screw may also loosen a tiny little bit?
But the final result is the screw stops holding the wire solidly and it becomes a tiny little arc welder which heats everything near it!
It can go slow or quick but if we can catch it at the right time and tighten those screws, we can head off the tiny arc welder ruining the whole unit----IF we tighten those screws before they start arcing! Not to kill them with too much but keep them tight?

Once burned, it gets tougher to fix but I might try cleaning the end of that wire and screw to see if it still can do the job of holding it tight?? Maybe it has already burned/corroded too far and the mount is no good but maybe you could get lucky as this one doesn't look as bad as some?
Pull up enough slack on that wire to cut it off to good wire, use a new screw and maybe good to go?
But for the rest of us who may be riding around with a few screws loose, consider it time to check them?
Folks been telling me I have a few loose for years but I never pay much attention!!

 

[wahoonc]

It's toasted. I considered replacing the relay assembly, but they cost almost as much as a new box. What is a bit strange is that I torqued them down about a year ago, it was sketchy then. Unfortunately I have been running primarily on 30 amp circuits for the past year which I figure played into the issue.

Aaron

 

[wahoonc]

It is amazing how far technology has come in a few years.

I am replacing 400 # of batteries with a single battery that weighs 55# ( actually installing 2 for the AH upgrade), not to mention the reduction in the number of connections that can corrode and cause issues.

The cost, not including the required controller upgrade is actually better on the LiFePo4s. I got 600 AH of heated batteries for just over $1200. To replace with the equivalent NAPA was going to be $2400, best price I could find on an AGM Group31 was the Duracell from Sam's club which would have been ~$1300. I am doubling my available amp hour rating and shedding about 300# of excess weight.

Hopefully I will have this done by the end of the week.

Aaron

 

[creativepart]

While you’ll love the additional amp hours you will really appreciate the much faster charging times. These things recharge in 1/4 the time as your AGMs.