2014 Forza 34T rear camera replacement

RobtL

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RV LIFE Pro
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Jun 20, 2015
Posts
14
Location
New Waverly, TX
2014 Forza 34T... rear camera issue... It was working for years and then didn't. I've double-checked the polarity (and tried both), the left and right cameras work when I use the turn signal, the rear camera IR LED lights come on when I block the camera (so I know it's getting power), and I'm simply ready to replace it. I'm pretty sure this would be a plugin replacement: RVS 130 However... I can't find where the RCA connect is at the end of the cable coming out of the camera.

forza rear camera cabling.png


The bump (at position 1 in the drawing) is only 24" from the camera, but the connector (at the question mark) is nowhere that I can find it. The cable length is at least 12 feet because that's how much of it can see, but then it goes around a corner and I can't find where it goes.

Anyone have any suggestions (besides cutting the cable and splicing each wire, which is what I will do if I can't find the connector)?
 
Yes, but you won't like the answer... it's somewhere in the Styrofoam structure between the roof and the ceiling.

Sometimes this can be accessed around a fan or A/C cutout, but this is certainly not a common thing. When your RV is built large blocks of custom formed styrofoam is installed to form the main part of your roof. That foam structure has channels and cutouts for TONS of wires running front to back of your coach. Then Luan plywood is glued over the top of the styrofoam and finally the Filon FRP roof material is glued on to the plywood. This sandwich construction makes up the entire roofing structure.

Consider this... it may not be the camera but the junction box for all your cameras located behind your dash monitor. It can even simply be a loose video cable where the rear camera plugs into that junction box. The box is a switcher that switches between the turn signal and rear cameras and connects to the transmission selector for activating the camera when in reverse.
 
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Ok, well, that sounds like I won't be able to get to the connection (if there even is one; I've read where some of the cameras from back then had a 66-ft cable! yikes!). I have accepted the fact that I may have to cut the cable and splice RCA 5-pin connectors to it, to make it easy for me this time (and the next).

As for a loose connection behind the dash, I hadn't thought of that. I've not ever removed the Pioneer a/v device before, but it probably isn't too tough. But I'll check that out before I buy a replacement camera and splice wires! Thanks!

(Any advice on removing the Pioneer device would be very welcome.)
 
I know it's difficult with a big diesel pusher, but if you can get it to a Car Audio dealer/installer or get one to come to the RV they are generally the best suited for all phases of this issue.
 
2014 Forza 34T... rear camera issue... It was working for years and then didn't. I've double-checked the polarity (and tried both), the left and right cameras work when I use the turn signal, the rear camera IR LED lights come on when I block the camera (so I know it's getting power), and I'm simply ready to replace it. I'm pretty sure this would be a plugin replacement: RVS 130 However... I can't find where the RCA connect is at the end of the cable coming out of the camera.

View attachment 1338892

The bump (at position 1 in the drawing) is only 24" from the camera, but the connector (at the question mark) is nowhere that I can find it. The cable length is at least 12 feet because that's how much of it can see, but then it goes around a corner and I can't find where it goes.

Anyone have any suggestions (besides cutting the cable and splicing each wire, which is what I will do if I can't find the connector)?
I have a 2016 Journey which I purchased used in 2000 and have a similar issue with the left and right cameras working when I turn on the blinkers but the rear camera is/was intermittent at best. I removed the radio head and pulled it as far out as the wires would allow and determined that the problem is related to the wire that feeds the video from the camera junction box to the radio head. I could wiggle the wire and the cameral would go on and off. Problem is that there is not enough wire to allow me to pull it our far enough to work on it. I considered that it might be a loose connection at the plug or even a loose connection in the radio head, but there's simply not enough room to work on it without removing the dash. My solution was to buy a separate rearview camera which I mounted on the rear of my rig. I removed the middle read light (there were five) from the rear cap and from there could access the wires going to the existing rear camera. I tapped into the power going to the existing rear camera in order to power the new camera and the new camera sends a wireless signal to the new screen that I mounted on my dash.
 
Dennis, thanks for replying. I went ahead and removed the top cover that hides the radio unit. (I found a YouTube video (of course) that described how to do it, and it looked pretty easy -- it was!) What I found was this tangle of wires (see first picture), but I was able to easily identify the switcher (that allows the left and right cameras to work) and the video cables.

top of console.png


And if I had tried what you did, I would have come up short, too, so I'm glad I removed the top!

Now, I found what is probably the cable and connector that attaches the camera to the switcher... see 2nd photo.

back of radio.png


I'm *really* glad I did this because I had been wrongly convinced this was a 5-pin connector. Now that I know it's a 4-pin, I have ordered what I hope to be a new camera that has a 4-pin connector.

4-pin connector.png


Ideally, I should be able to plug the new camera into the connector that I found, to test it and ensure it works. If it does, then I'll replace the one that is in the top-center of the back of the RV. If it doesn't, then I'm going to do what you are doing, and use a wireless camera/monitor system. It's entirely likely the new camera I ordered will plug in, but won't otherwise be compatible... if so, I'll send it back and order the wireless. I'll find out tomorrow!

Thanks for chiming in... I hope this journey will help others.
 
Have you done any checkiong for continuity from those cables in front looking toward the back camera? If you see it open, you may get a different idea than simply thinking changing the camera will do the job?
But looking for any info, I find this drawing section may have a couple item to consider:
Sheet 9 seems to have some info?
vid1.jpg

Or maybe get lucky and find a loose plug?
vid2.jpg

Any chance the camera power plug is loose and you only notice when looking at the back more than sides?
As a small point on the wiring, I notice it shows coax run up left A column and heads to rear. does this give any better info on where you might find connections if you were using a tone to follow where the tone stopped?
coax.jpg



It's a jungle out there (both in and out?)
Wish you luck on the chase!
 
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Thanks, Morich... As I mentioned, both left and right cameras work and display, so the voltage for the switcher is correct. And, the rear camera has power because I can see and activate the IR LEDs. I checked all of those connectors to make sure they were secure... they were. The "run cable up A-pillar" is new to me, so that might give me something to look for... thanks! (The little bit I traced it, it was definitely headed for the left side of the coach.) Tomorrow or Wednesday I'll find out if my camera-guess works or not. If not, I'll just give up on it and buy a wireless system.

Oh, today I also looked up the Connex switcher info, and the web page I found had a camera that looks like it would definitely work (at least, it would work with the switcher).... but at $183 for just the camera, I could get a dual-camera wireless system -with- monitor for less than that, so, I doubt I'll go that route. For those of you who are curious, this is the web page I found on the camera: https://www.rvcams.com/p/C1000.html ... and this is the switcher I have: https://www.rvcams.com/p/CVS150-01.html
 
Another place in the drawings, I also saw info that indicated the cable went up the a column and then into the empty space under the "corner' trim at the top of the wall/ roof joint to get to the back!
that might tell you where to find it but it doesn't seem to help as the difficulty of getting that piece off and back on to repair or replace the coax is likely far more trouble than going with a different system!
Kind of tells you where it is but if the problem is not at either end where you can already get to it, not much help to know where it might have a problem.

Maybe just useless info to add to your thought to just move on and forget what is there and not working?
Obsessive thinking, one might pull the cover on the camera and verify that there is an open or short in the coax but if it is where you can't fix it, what is the value?

In working with coax, I have found most trouble to be at ends where the fittings get into trouble, but that circles back around to not being able to reach that fitting to fix it!

Sometimes I think "RV" is just a short way to spell corrosion!
 
I got the new camera in and... nope. In fact, it works the same as the extant-camera, in other words, the IR LED lights come on, but no video. (I did order a monitor with the camera, and verified that the new camera is indeed working with it.) So, that kind of narrows it down to either the Connex switcher (and/or its connections), or the radio unit itself (Pioneer AVH-X3500BHS). I've ordered a converter cable that will split a 4-pin into separate RCA plugs, and I'll then plug in the camera to the Aux a/v port on the radio to see if it shows up. If that does work, then I'll bypass the switcher and plug it into the rear camera port, to see if it works... that should pretty much point to the culprit.

The weird part is that I plugged in the extant-camera into the new monitor I got with the new camera, and it didn't show any signal. But... I don't know if the extant-camera is compatible with the new monitor. The Pioneer radio unit is compatible with virtually every kind of signal, so my new camera should work when I bypass the switcher (unless the radio unit is the probelm). I can also try the new camera on an Aux video port to see if that works.

So, it's still a morass of things and I can't quite get it isolated, but I'm getting close.

(I've also asked the River Forest people how they would debug a Connex CVS 150-01... hopefully they'll reply.)
 
So I finally got all the connectors and bits and bobs I needed to complete my testing, and to try to figure out just what the heck is going on. It comes down to one of two likely things: either the camera is not generating a signal, or there is a break in the wire from the camera to the switcher. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare radio unit that I can use to see if that is the problem, and I'm still debating whether or not to manually cut and spice the cable leading into the camera. But the final head-scratcher is... if I plug a new camera directly into the back of the radio unit, it doesn't show anything. So, I'm now officially going to give up and just buy a wireless camera. (It's WAY cheaper than buying a new radio unit!)

If you've read this far, thanks for hanging in there with me.
 

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