2009 Journey 39z Windshield leak?

[Hollywoodgt]

So I have a 2009 journey and I have a slight water leak that follows the top rail under the plastic windshield Mldg. Its not a big one but I want to get it fixed. My son resealed the marker lights but dont think he had good coverage. I also had the side cap sealed and body tape across the top cap also. I had the windshield professionally sealed. However the guy said you truly cant get the sealant in there without pulling the glass. He also put a bead under the mldg.

That stopped the leak in the passenger corner but I still have it in the center. The coach is also on a downward angle. My thoughts are taping up the marker lights and seeing if that does it.

My other option is finding a shop in the Midwest that can do this type of repair? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

[MNGolfer]

Windshield Leak

More likely the seal has failed on the windshield because of rust and deterioration of the frame. Was a very common problem the 2000s. We had a 2004 Journey and had Winnebago do the work. the windshield have to be removed and the odds of breaking are about 50%. We had the one that did not have damage from a rock break when being removed. Marker sealing is a good start.

 

[Knightly-WO]

I have a 2007 Itasca, W24 chassis. I had a persistent leak somewhere along the windshield. I tried removing the top rubber strip and adding sealant, but to no avail.

My motorhome has a two piece front windshield. A glass shop replaced the driver's side windshield due to rock damage. Once the frame was exposed, it was definitely rusted and required sanding and painting before the new windshield could be installed. It solved the problem, no more leaks. I suspect that your problem will be as a result of corrosion.

 

[Hollywoodgt]

More than likely your correct. except I had a glass company seal it and seal the rubber mldg to the body. The coach hasn't moved so no body flex. I would assume that would of sealed. I knew that wasn't the be all cure all but putting a bead on the mldg should of stopped it. Actually it has for the most part. My coach is also on a dqwn ward angle. The weather bound 4' tape I used on the top of where the cap attaches is still good. The end cap calk is also still good. I am wondering if its the actual marker lights

 

[MNGolfer]

Easy to check the markers. Use a fan in one of the windows to pressurize the interior of the MH. Then use soapy water around the markers and see if any bubbles appear. I've used this in the past and it works very well. Good Luck on finding your leak.

 

[RayIN]

FWIW, Winnebago beds in windshields just like autos. The non-hardening black bedding/sealant comes in caulking gun tubes.

 

[Hollywoodgt]

Easy to check the markers. Use a fan in one of the windows to pressurize the interior of the MH. Then use soapy water around the markers and see if any bubbles appear. I've used this in the past and it works very well. Good Luck on finding your leak.

Funny I have owned my auto facility for 38 yrs. Before that I ran big car dealerships and learned all the cool ways to fix wind noises etc. we use to turn the ac on full blower and take your palm of your and or soapy water and go along where you thought the leak was. Pressurizing does work

 

[creativepart]

Something to consider... most "windshield leaks" in Winnebagos especially with rusted window framing and not windshield leaks at all. They are leaks where the front cap connects to the body. Water comes in, slowly runs to the front of the RV and down in windshield frame.

Sometimes its the seal on the roof where the cap is attached to the roof. It can also be the Clearance Lights on the front of the cap. But one of the most likely and easily ignored is the top side of the body on both sides where the roof radius and drip rail contact the side of the front cap.

The way to fix this is to remove all the caulking on the side of the cap at the roof radius until you can see inside the cap and then fill that entire area with the appropriate silicone sealant. I used Manus Bond 75M on mine and it completely eliminated any "windshield" leaks.

Here's the area I'm talking about:

 

[RayIN]

Something to consider... most "windshield leaks" in Winnebagos especially with rusted window framing and not windshield leaks at all. They are leaks where the front cap connects to the body. Water comes in, slowly runs to the front of the RV and down in windshield frame.

Sometimes its the seal on the roof where the cap is attached to the roof. It can also be the Clearance Lights on the front of the cap. But one of the most likely and easily ignored is the top side of the body on both sides where the roof radius and drip rail contact the side of the front cap.

The way to fix this is to remove all the caulking on the side of the cap at the roof radius until you can see inside the cap and then fill that entire area with the appropriate silicone sealant. I used Manus Bond 75M on mine and it completely eliminated any "windshield" leaks.

Here's the area I'm talking about:

I used foam backer rod to fill the void and provide a stop for the sealant, this way there's only approx. ½" of sealant back under the cap instead of an unknown amount.
For some reason Winnebago class A MH's have a poor fitment of the cap to roof joint on the radius.

 

[Hollywoodgt]

Sorry for the long delay in my reply. The problem turned out to be the upper marker lights. I started with the windshield, the top cap I did and was ok. The sides of the cap were redone and still leaked. My son did the marker lights but didnt really put enough on. They were redone and its been fine. Thank you all again

 

[Chmielowiec]

I had a very large leak in my 2007 Journey 39K windshield and I chased all the things that you have done with no sucess. What I eventually figured out was that when the windshield was replaced prior to my ownership the installers did not get that half of the windshield in straight and it was not sealed on about half of the top on the passenger side windshield which was allowing a large amount of water to enter the coach every time it rained. We had a 4 qt. sauce pan on the dash to catch the leak which depending on the severity of the storm had to emptied many times. What I ended up doing was to pull the rubber trim from the holder removing the holder and jamming sealant into the void between the windshield and the cab. I had to trim the rubber trim holder channel to get it back in place as the windshield was cocked but the project was a sucess and no more leaks this repair was done 9 years ago and its still good to go. Good luck with it but it definetly sounds like a windshield leak at the top of the windshield.I used a 3M black rubber sealant that was in a caulk tube and a putty knife to jam the sealant into the void after squirting it out of the tube.

 

[Hollywoodgt]

Nope windshield, cab were all dry. The issue was in the over head lights and hasn't leaked a drop since the. Dr
y as the desert

 

[BCam]

Since your windshield was sealed without removing it, as a preventative measure to a common and potentially destructive leak, run a strip of All-Weather Gorilla tape across the top of your rubber moulding. Just the top and top corners, not all around, you want to allow a path for any water that does get in to drain. Better to do it now than after you have a leak. If you get moisture between the windshield and the steel frame, you'll get rust that can lead to major repairs.

Gorilla All-Weather tape only comes in black but you don't need a very wide piece and it will blend in with your moulding. I have some on my van that's held up outside for about five years so far. Other types of GT come in colors and clear but I don't know how long they'll last outside.

I put Eternabond above my MH moulding, it's effective but much more difficult to remove
if you have to do so, which I had to do in order to replace half of my windshield.