2008 Winnebago View 24J Dometic Water Heater Has No AC Power

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Original Member Title: Dometic water heater breaker location? 2008 Winnebago View 24J
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A member with a 2008 Winnebago View 24J had a Dometic 6 gallon gas/electric water heater that worked on propane but not on electric, even though the heating element tested good and the wall switch lit up. Other members explained that the wall switch is a 12V control circuit, while the 120V feed likely passes through an Intellitec load-shedding device that shares power between the microwave and water heater.

Members suggested checking the microwave circuit, breakers, relay, Romex feed...
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Vaporetto

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2018
Posts
26
In a 2008 Winnebago View J , which has a Dometic 6 gallon, electric/gas combo water heater. Works fine on gas, but not on electric. Pulled the water heater, with little problem as there is very tight access to heater while installed. Pulled the element and tested for continuity and resistance. Good continuity and about 10-11 ohms resistance Slightly corroded. Ordered new element, since i have it apart. But upon testing, found no AC power to water heater, nor to the relay. Power for AC is romex. No power in romex as far as I can ascertain. AC breakers in panel are not labeled, but nothing is tripped there. Switch on wall to switch on AC to water heater lights up, but no power downstream from there. Is there another fuse/breaker inline that i am missing? Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions welcome.-Bill
 
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Sounds like possible trouble with a load sharing gizmo but some questions may help.
this should get you to a drawing of the various electrical, 12VDC and 110VAC:
But the 110AC draing sounds right and get it here:
electric water.jpg

When you have the option for elctrical water heating, it adds this relay. One way to cut the chase is to check if the microwave is working. If it is also dead, maybe look at the breaker which feeds both micro and water heater?
For physical location of the relay, we don't get really clear pictures but it shows basic location behind the load center???
electric water2.jpg


Power to main breaker, passed to smaller breaker than on to relay which chooses microwave or water heater? Sometimes worth pushing the breaker to off and back on as they can be misleading at times? But if micro works it sounds like further out!!
Sound simple EXCEPT there is a hole in the road somewhere and it may be under the cabinet???

Wish you luck on the chase!
 
Richard is on the right track. Below is the device Winnebago installed on mine. Like Richard says, if the microwave is working, go to the select switch and make sure the connections are tight. Next, switch on the water heater and check for power at the "secondary" load terminal on the Intellitec. (Be sure to measure between the terminal and a proven ground or neutral.) If no power, replace unit. If power present there is trouble past that point possibly an open neutral connection, or a failed connection in a junction box.

Inteellitec.jpg
 
Thank you both for your input. I do have power to the microwave. One of the things that puzzles me is that there is also power to the on/off switch for AC water heater (on the wall, and lights up when active), but nothing past that point that I have access to. Perhaps bad switch is a reasonable question? Very limited access from either side of switch. Haven't found the intellitec, but will pursue that avenue tomorrow. Plenty of time to do this work, as fuel here is $6.80/gal. Thanks again,
Bill
08 View-J
 
Thank you both for your input. I do have power to the microwave. One of the things that puzzles me is that there is also power to the on/off switch for AC water heater (on the wall, and lights up when active), but nothing past that point that I have access to. Perhaps bad switch is a reasonable question? Very limited access from either side of switch. Haven't found the intellitec, but will pursue that avenue tomorrow. Plenty of time to do this work, as fuel here is $6.80/gal. Thanks again,
Bill
08 View-J
The switch on the wall is 12 volts, when you switch that on it closes a relay on the water heater that supplies 120 volts to the water heater thermostat which energizes the element until the water has reached temperature. 120 volts remains available to the thermostat as long as the 12 volt switch is on, and will cycle the element on and off indefinitely.
 
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If you have a wall switch between the power sharing and the heater, that is not shown on the drawings but really begins to sound like the suspect to check.
Okay, BigB has the better idea if what you find is correct!
There is a switch that is not shown on the 110AC drawings as it is part of the 122VDC controls!
Looking at the 12V, I find this.
watwer heat.jpg


At that switch which has the light, there should be 12VDc power coming in on a wire staampd JA. that goes to the switch and light the light. It shouold also be going out of the switch on wire HHJ to a plug feeding to the water heater!
That is a signal or controll wire that tells the board at the water heater to turn on 110AC to feed the heating element. Remote control type thing?
But this may be where it gets tricky becasue they don't tell me WHERE that first plug may be, nor if there are other plugs/extensions as mentioned!
Considering the problems we can have getting those switches out, I might jump to look at the water heater as the p[roblem is as likely to be one end as the other, so start witht he easier to access?
Or as an alternate, it may be handier to get the drawings for the brand and model of heater as check this signal is getting to the right place on the board?
For the Winnebago wiring, there should be a 4-pin plug like this shows with the wires labeled.
So my currrent thinking is that 12Volt signal is not getting to the water hear board to let it know you want to turn on electric heat. That can mean that the 110AC side we were chasing may be getting to the board but the board may not be turning it on to go to the element!
When you have the water heater brand and model there is likely to be an online manual for it to tell where to check both the 110AC and 12VDC inputs. One of them may not be getting there, or there may be a board problem. But somewhere that control signal and the AC are not getting the right plan!
 
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Yes, I was not fully awake when first thought was 110 issue and then I have to keep in mind that the drawings they do are seperated showing ONLY 110 or 12V, so I had to go to different drawing to get the 12VDC part!
But as we get more info, I would move to the water heater to check there instead of all the wiring route to get there!
 
Ok, this is a litle above my pay grade, so it will take some concentration for me to digest all this. I do appreciate the effort from all, and I will respond as i progress. -Bill
 
But WHERE is the 110AC being checked on the water heater? If there is none getting to the board, the 12VDC signal from this switch to the board is not going to be able to pass110 along if it is not getting to the heater! We seem to be going around in cicrcles and possibly due to lack of saying more precisely where the testing is done?
As I remember the water heater, I expect only one Romex to be involved, If the check was done on that Romex and there was no power there, we can forget about the switch as it can only let the AC pass if it is there!
If no AC reaches the area on the water heater, I would have to assume trouble back toward the load shedder!
Maybe we need to clean up the discussion a bit to get some clear ideas?
I would first want to know th eAC is getting past the load shedder and to the water heater and that should be fairly simple as there is only one Romex expected there!
So when testing, does AC power get to this Romex on the heater?
water heater el.jpg

If you do get hot and ground on these first two points, turn the heater on at the inside switch and see if you now see AC power from any ground to the neutral! If you see AC there it is going in on the hot side, through the switch where you have turned it on and then through the heating elementand back out to where you are testing!
That should meaan it will get hot!
 
On this heater, the electric seems very simp[le as compared to others. It comes in on hot an dif the inside switch is on the contacts shown here should close and let power on to the element and complete the circuit when it comes out to the neutral!
But where this may get in trouble is if the load shed part is not letting that AC get to the heater!
Sometimes called "comes inna/ goes outa"? It has to come in to get out! :unsure:

NEVER MIND! Way too may boring classes!!! o_Oo_Oo_O
 
On this heater, the electric seems very simp[le as compared to others. It comes in on hot an dif the inside switch is on the contacts shown here should close and let power on to the element and complete the circuit when it comes out to the neutral!
But where this may get in trouble is if the load shed part is not letting that AC get to the heater!
Sometimes called "comes inna/ goes outa"? It has to come in to get out! :unsure:

NEVER MIND! Way too may boring classes!!! o_Oo_Oo_O
Ok, just now heading out to the shop, to test as you advise. You are correct in that there is only one romex to the heater. Previous tests show no power in romex, nor power(12v or 120v) to relay located next to the element. In other words, no power to the heater at all. I am now clear that the switch on the wall is 12v. which clears up that question. Thanks for your interest and persistence. Back to you in a while.
 
No problem! Take the time and do it as you get to it. I do this when I get tired of waiting for calls and don't want to get far off from computer. I get paid for being here and when they want it!
So this is just info to consider if an or when you might need to know how the load shedder might work. this is based on being this brand and all that but most work the same if we trace out the three Romex we expect to find here.
One come in from the breaker to bring the AC to this form of "switch" that decides whether to let you run the microwave or the water heater as they can't both use power at once. So they let this gizmo do the switch of those two.
Kind of like a transfer switch only it changes what can use power instead of which power is used cord or generator?
load shedder.jpg

Easy to spot is that all three Romex have bare ground wires that all go to same place to ground the metal box. Blue marked!
The I marked as yellow the hot power from breaker into shedder. Shedder then decides If microwave is turned on, it passes hot to primary (red) to go out on the primary Romex. Doing that shuts off the power tot he water heater until micro is done!
Power goes to water heater green but only when it calls for heat and microwave is off!

Bottom line is that IF the water heater is not getting 110AC to it, the problem may be that power is leaving the breaker but not getting though this gizmo!
Never worked in this type but if you can get the cover off, there may be loose wires, etc. to tighten. Mostly we think of just hot but the neutral are all really needed, too, so check they are good and tight as well.
Hot comes in on yellow and goes to primary if needed or secondary if primary not needed but secondary does!
Just info to stick in a book if ever needed?
 
Ok, just now heading out to the shop, to test as you advise. You are correct in that there is only one romex to the heater. Previous tests show no power in romex, nor power(12v or 120v) to relay located next to the element. In other words, no power to the heater at all. I am now clear that the switch on the wall is 12v. which clears up that question. Thanks for your interest and persistence. Back to you in a while.
No problem! Take the time and do it as you get to it. I do this when I get tired of waiting for calls and don't want to get far off from computer. I get paid for being here and when they want it!
So this is just info to consider if an or when you might need to know how the load shedder might work. this is based on being this brand and all that but most work the same if we trace out the three Romex we expect to find here.
One come in from the breaker to bring the AC to this form of "switch" that decides whether to let you run the microwave or the water heater as they can't both use power at once. So they let this gizmo do the switch of those two.
Kind of like a transfer switch only it changes what can use power instead of which power is used cord or generator?
View attachment 2431872
Easy to spot is that all three Romex have bare ground wires that all go to same place to ground the metal box. Blue marked!
The I marked as yellow the hot power from breaker into shedder. Shedder then decides If microwave is turned on, it passes hot to primary (red) to go out on the primary Romex. Doing that shuts off the power tot he water heater until micro is done!
Power goes to water heater green but only when it calls for heat and microwave is off!

Bottom line is that IF the water heater is not getting 110AC to it, the problem may be that power is leaving the breaker but not getting though this gizmo!
Never worked in this type but if you can get the cover off, there may be loose wires, etc. to tighten. Mostly we think of just hot but the neutral are all really needed, too, so check they are good and tight as well.
Hot comes in on yellow and goes to primary if needed or secondary if primary not needed but secondary does!
Just info to stick in a book if ever needed?
Ok, here is what I found. First I checkedl my multi-meter to make sure thats not the problem. Then checked my tester pen, on active romex in RV to make sure it works. No problem there. With element contacts disconnected (no water in heater) and wall switch on and lighted, there is no power to the contacts (hot and neutral leads) at heater, and no power in romex at heater area, and no power to relay. All AC circuit breakers are checked and ok, with microwave working as usual. Also checked 12v fuses, especially one marked tank heater (which could be freeze protection on grey water tank), and checked all other 12v fuses-all good.
Which leads me to your latest post, which I mostly understand. The current hurdle is to find the shredder. Its not in an obvious spot. All romex seems to lead to the rear of the RV under the bed, which will take some doing to gain access. Also will check behind the load center, which has been suggested previously. I am trying to be cautious in my search, so as not to create new problems along the way, as often is the case in these situations. In any case, I'm still on it! Thanks again.
 
If you can follow the Romex from the microwave breaker it will lead you to the device. Also, if it is very quiet in the RV and you switch on the water heater and the microwave, then switch off the microwave, you will hear the device click as it switches to the secondary load terminals, if it is working. This can also clue you in to it's location. As I said earlier mine is directly behind the breaker panel but I can access it thru a trap door under the mattress.
 
Good news/bad news! Found the intellitec, behind and to the side of the power center. Thats the good news. Bad news is it is virtually impossible to reach. Floor mounted and surrounded by romex and bundled wires. Barely visible, let alone accessible.
Refrigerator is immediately above. No access from outside, and no access from either side without cutting out a wall section for access. Certainly installed before cabinets or refrigerator.

So at this point i need to evaluate the cost/benefit of proceeding. I do have hot water via gas. Problem for me is I have hard time walking away from something not working properly. Usually not a bad thing. Thanks for all the advice/help, it was spot on!
 
Can you pull the load center out to access? On mine there is enough slack in the Romexes, and all my 12 volt harnesses plug into the rear of the load center with 4 long, flat connectors.

BTW if you can get to the wiring you can replace it with a 3 way switch, which is a manual way to do the same job.
 
Load center pulls out about 4 inches or so, enough to access connectors that you describe. I can barely reach the intellitec to the side, let alone test it. Replace it possibly with difficulty. 3-way switch is a possibility as is doing a access hole on the forward wall (back of the slide). 3 way switch would work for me.
 
Well, isn't that a bummer! That sort of things seems like it would be pretty long lasting but it is where the problem seems to be.
I certainly have no better ideas than you can see on how to get it out! I might be really tempted to rewire and just make the second come off before the load shed if that looks possible. A littletraining to avoid having the water heater on and using the microwave would be easy enough work around for me.
Since you have the options to use propane if it got into really wanting the hot water quicker, that would not seem to bother us much. But I really don't remember using electric heat on water? Maybe we did but what I do remember is simply planning when we wanted it hot and taking a coffee break or walk while waiting for the propane.
We came up through a series of gradual upgrades starting in tents, so were used to just working with what we had.

But I do agree that knowing something is not right is also a drag!
 
Well, isn't that a bummer! That sort of things seems like it would be pretty long lasting but it is where the problem seems to be.
I certainly have no better ideas than you can see on how to get it out! I might be really tempted to rewire and just make the second come off before the load shed if that looks possible. A littletraining to avoid having the water heater on and using the microwave would be easy enough work around for me.
Since you have the options to use propane if it got into really wanting the hot water quicker, that would not seem to bother us much. But I really don't remember using electric heat on water? Maybe we did but what I do remember is simply planning when we wanted it hot and taking a coffee break or walk while waiting for the propane.
We came up through a series of gradual upgrades starting in tents, so were used to just working with what we had.

But I do agree that knowing something is not right is also a drag!
I'm taking a break on the water heater situation for a day to give myself some time to re-evaluate. Its certainly not a critical problem, the worst outcome being that i will heat with propane. Not such a big deal compared to real people with real problems. I live in a very isolated place, with nearest reliable repair facility 3 hours away (and i use the term reliable with hesitation). I have learned a lot about this system, and in a way, enjoyed the whole process. Thanks for all the excellent input.-Bill
 

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