2007 Journey starter clicks but won’t crank

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Original Member Title: 2007 Journey wont start makes click at starter when turned over
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An RVer with a 2007 Journey replaced the starter and then the two chassis batteries after the key produced only a click, but the engine still would not crank. Members suggested the problem may be in the high-current starter circuit rather than the new starter or batteries, especially at the solenoid, starter relay, cable connections, or possible mega-fuse.

Points of agreement
  • Several members pointed to checking the starter relay and heavy battery cable connections, especially...
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imrex613

New Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2026
Posts
5
Location
Virginia
I just replaced the starter because when I would hit the key it would CLICK as if it had failed. Once everything was back together I had the exact same issue. I then replaced the two starter batteries and the exact same issue no fix. The other house batteries are good and just replaced last year

Has anyone ran into a similar issue? Not sure what to look for next
 
If we assume the click is the solenoid contacts meeting, that should be putting 12Volts from one big lug from the battery through to come out on the other big lug to the starter motor. That should crank the engine but it can fail if the contacts are burned or corroded too much to make good contact.
I will tell you about an old farm boy trick but consdier it may involve some risk of sparks and you want to be sure to stay away from anything like the fan or other parts that may move when the engine cranks!
That solenoid is just a switch to connect battery to the starter but it does it with power instead of us pushing a switch by hand. If you have good 12Volts on one lug and connect that lug to the other big lug, the starter should turn! When broke and no money or time to go to town for a new starter, it was common to just jump under the old tractor and put an old set of pliers across from one big lug to the other to get it started! I DO not advise using good pliers for this as you get quite a lot of sparks or burned pliers!
But the idea is that if the starter cranks when using pliers but not when it clicks and doesn't start, you have to say the contacts are bad in the solenoid!
A different way to test, is by doing a "jump start" only not on the battery but down on that big lug that goes directly to the starter motor. If it cranks that way, the wiring from the battery down to the start has something wrong to keep it from getting full power! Dirty connections somewhere is a common idea to check.
 
that sounds like something im not sure I am willing to try lol. I could probe it with a volt meter to see if its getting the proper voltage
 
Yes, I have learned that meters are definitely safer! One thing to be aware of when testing with meters ithat it can show good voltage as enough current gets through to move the meter but possibly not enough to turn the starter. Sometimes we need to go one step further and take the cable off at the batteryand doing a resistance check as well.
Possibly an easier go is to look along the cable for any type of "mega- fuse" that might be corroded? They can be most anywhere along the line but the idea is they should blow incase of an accident to keep from setting the whole vehicle on fire. I have seen some in or near the battery compartment, but others are out on the side of the frame rail.
Not knowing where can make it a trek to locate them!
Sorry, no idea where one might be on your bigger RV and I don't spot any on the drawings! That leaves it pretty much a guess whether there IS one even there?
 
If we assume the click is the solenoid contacts meeting, that should be putting 12Volts from one big lug from the battery through to come out on the other big lug to the starter motor. That should crank the engine but it can fail if the contacts are burned or corroded too much to make good contact.
I will tell you about an old farm boy trick but consdier it may involve some risk of sparks and you want to be sure to stay away from anything like the fan or other parts that may move when the engine cranks!
That solenoid is just a switch to connect battery to the starter but it does it with power instead of us pushing a switch by hand. If you have good 12Volts on one lug and connect that lug to the other big lug, the starter should turn! When broke and no money or time to go to town for a new starter, it was common to just jump under the old tractor and put an old set of pliers across from one big lug to the other to get it started! I DO not advise using good pliers for this as you get quite a lot of sparks or burned pliers!
But the idea is that if the starter cranks when using pliers but not when it clicks and doesn't start, you have to say the contacts are bad in the solenoid!
A different way to test, is by doing a "jump start" only not on the battery but down on that big lug that goes directly to the starter motor. If it cranks that way, the wiring from the battery down to the start has something wrong to keep it from getting full power! Dirty connections somewhere is a common idea to check.
Same results happen with a jumper cable, eye protection recommended.
 
Your starter relay should be on outside of the passenger side frame rail pretty close to the batteries.
On my 03' Journey I could get at it from under the bed. That's where the high current from the battery is sent to the starter motor.
I would loosen the battery cables on that relay 1/4 of a turn then retighten them, and if that doesn't work replace the relay.
 
I just replaced the starter because when I would hit the key it would CLICK as if it had failed. Once everything was back together I had the exact same issue. I then replaced the two starter batteries and the exact same issue no fix. The other house batteries are good and just replaced last year

Has anyone ran into a similar issue? Not sure what to look for next
If your MH is on a Freightliner chassis, then you will have several relays mounted on the frame rail near the batteries.
I have a 2004 Vectra with a Freightliner chassis, and the relay connections need to be cleaned periodically, very poor design feature from Freightliner regarding the location.
I can access them from the engine compartment with some effort, this past month I had to remove the basement air, and I took a pic of the relays, hope this helps!
1783297726477.jpeg
 

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