2005 Itasca Cambria 26A Roof-to-Sidewall Sealant

[CanoeCanuck]

Good Morning
I have a 2005 Winnebago Itasca 26A with a fiberglass roof. The caulking connection between roof and metal eaves trough on the side of the camper doesn’t have a nice edge for adhesion. I typically have to recaulk once or twice a year using Dicor no lag caulk. Is there a better solution? Thanks for the advice.

 

[RV_Lee]

If thats the same interlocking style roof as the later model ones here is how...

(skip the cleaning with glass cleaner and applying pro flex over wet, it wont set up right)

 

[CanoeCanuck]

If thats the same interlocking style roof as the later model ones here is how...

(skip the cleaning with glass cleaner and applying pro flex over wet, it wont set up right)

Thank you. That is a great video that explains how this attaches. I’ll order the Proflex and give it a try. I appreciate your help.

 

[RV_Lee]

Thank you. That is a great video that explains how this attaches. I’ll order the Proflex and give it a try. I appreciate your help.

Here is a diagram. Mineral spirits will work to help soften up the old sealant so you can dig it out of there. Clean up most of it with water after, let that dry, then put the new proflex in.

I did some sidewall seals the way he did in the video, over a wet surface and it did not turn out well. He also has a follow up video re-doing one of the sides of that very RV, so do not apply over a wet surface. Besides that its a good tutorial!

 

[CanoeCanuck]

I put first coat of Proflex RV on one side of camper last night. It is very nice to work with. Easy to make a nice looking seam compared with other Dicor caulks I’ve used. Can this be used in other applications such as around windows? I live in a city with 6 months of rainy, humid weather through the winter, will this caulk work well as it states no to be used in shower areas? It will see a lot of moisture through winter. Finally, does it adhere to itself? Can I put on additional bead once it cures?

 

[RV_Lee]

Use DAP dynaflex around windows, and electric tape

You can get the DAP stuff almost everywhere

 

[Morich]

When dealing with caulk, I find one of the biggest problems is getting the old off! But there is a super handy tool that can save tons of time and effort as well as let you get the old off without gouging the surface.
I find one of the cheap oscillating tools is one I will never do any caulking/sealing without in the future as it saves me so much on both time/effort as well as damage from slips and gouges!
I find one of the thin flat blades is great to get it off just down to removing the black algea and then when I need to use something like mineral spirits to get it clean, a small rag tied on the blade can do a ton of rubbing in super quick fashion!
In sealing aqariums where getting the new really placed on the glass, rather than on the dirt on the glass, I find I can avoid a ton of manul labor with dipping the rag in whatever cleaner is needed to remove any traces of the old, so that the new is actually attached to the surface and not going to come off when the dirt comes loose!
But once I had one on hand, I also found lots of uses for home repair where it saves lots!

 

[HiBanky]

Manus Products | Manus-Bond 75-AM All Purpose

www.manus.net

 

[Journey39n]

I have used the specified, and many other types of sealant/caulk over the years for my side edge channel. Every year, a few spots need touch-up or replacing. 4 years ago, I couldn't get my usual sealant and settled for the 'as advertised on TV' 'FlexGlue'. Not the 'Seal', but the 'glue'. Much to my surprise and delight, very little touch-up needed over the next three full years. This last spring, I did replace major spots, not so much that they needed it, I just thought it was time. The material held up very well, the UV protection must have been great because we were nearly always parked in the sun. Others will swear by other materials, I can't attest to their success or failures. But Clear Flex Glue worked well for me.

And during one huge downpour, I used the White Flex Glue to seal a leak at my skylight. We had a 21-inch rainfall in one 24-hour period last year. Lucky for me the drip was in the shower. During a slight lull in the rain, I got up on the roof, hit the spots around the skylight I thought were suspect. and exited the roof just as the rain started up again. No more leaks! Just my experience, I know others have had other results.

 

[Winn2021]

I'm glad, I'm not the only one to fall into the "Dicor" trap. The filon roofing on these Winnebago's has a silicone based adhesive from the factory, so nothing sticks well except silicone after that. I screwed up on a skylight replacement big time. And the roof radius that CanoeCanuck is dealing with? I didn't even know that was a thing. I was one season from losing the roof. I did Geocel 3 summers ago and it still looks great. Prep prep prep and don't be stingy filling up that gap. Each Winnebago has an "adhesive Call-out sheet". A brief cross reference on the product number will give you some commercial choices on the types of adhesives that can be used. As far as putting another layer on, It's less than Ideal once it sets up. If you do, make sure you re-prep and get excellent adhesion to other adjacent material and kindly extend the new layer over the top of the old layer.

 

[Bobn1957]

I used a product called Lexel, it's clear and has held up well for three years so far!