2003 Winnebago Journey DL Rear Panel Repair and TriMark Lock Fix

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Original Member Title: Help is appreciated With 2003 Winnebago journey DL 34HD
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A new owner of a well-kept 2003 Winnebago Journey DL 34HD asked about two main issues: rear fiberglass and engine-bay access panels separating from their brackets, and an entry lock that will lock but no longer unlock with the key. Members generally agreed the panel problem is common on older coaches and that a practical fix is to resecure the panels with stainless fasteners, often painted to match, while keeping the appearance as original as possible. One member reported replacing rusty...
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TDServices

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Posts
153
Location
Colorado
New to me and the wife a 2003 Winnebago journey dl 34hd with 88k on the odo the gentleman before me had over .24k invested within the last 2 years air bags, radiators hoses, flushes , awnings tranny flush etc it’s a beautiful coach covered its entire life and now it’s gonna be uncovered anyway there are a few problems my concern mostly is the rear access panels ( radiator ) are coming unglued and would like advice on screwing them down to make them look natural , already did the rear tv picture attached and changed the gold to metatilic bronze and changed the oil
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That is one clean looking older machine. Congrats on getting it! What is your concern with unglueing?? Some pics please.
 
The rear fiberglass panel and the engine bay panels are all falling off the metal brackets where they are held in place with epoxy , I wanna use screws like those but I would have to paint them and put them where they look original
 

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Also does anyone know how to fix this lock I can lock it but cannot unlock with the key anymore
 

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Mine is the same lock but I can't unlock the other one. You will have to take it apart and check what is blocking the mechanism. I havn't bothered yet. I think that one is also the power door lock if you have that function. At least it is on my Minnie Winnie.
 
My rear panels were held on with double sided tape. The metal brackets that screw on were rusty so I had new ones made at a metal shop. Stainless steel this time. I used 3M and strategically placed screws.
 
Yea I don’t have the remote locks just Keys so I guess for now it stays without using that lock , all my metal braces and brackets are fine I think I’ll just do the screws and paint them as close as possible to the body paint
 
I didn't know I had remote locks until we locked ourselves out. Check the door hinge area. If you have a couple of brass looking buttons that coincide with a couple on the door it may be there.
 
The rear fiberglass panel and the engine bay panels are all falling off the metal brackets where they are held in place with epoxy , I wanna use screws like those but I would have to paint them and put them where they look original
Search irv2.com for this subject; several members have done what you contemplate. IMO their modification looks good. They used SST fasteners painted to match.
 
As for your lock. Its a Tri Mark brand and I learned that there is and ajustment that should be done every so often. You should find on the door edge either tape or rubber covering up a hole. That hole leads to the adjusting nut for the lock.
 

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As for your lock. Its a Tri Mark brand and I learned that there is and ajustment that should be done every so often. You should find on the door edge either tape or rubber covering up a hole. That hole leads to the adjusting nut for the lock.
I was wondering what that hole with the cover was for thanks for that info and I’ll see if I can fix it that way
 
Below is what the trimark folks sent to assist. The hard part was finding a 7/16 thin-walled nut driver. The hole in my door is 7/16 so normal nutdriver would not work. One would think its a easy tool to find. Nope had to get one and had my RV tech people grind the outside down to go throught the hole.



If you have a handle that has a rod on the back of the interior, you will need to do the nut adjustment periodically as maintenance on your handle. You will need a 7/16” thin-walled nut driver.

Go to instruction #5 on page 3 of the assembly instructions.


The nut adjustment is critical. When adjusting, it is important to make sure the tool used to adjust the nut doesn’t trip the latch during adjustment and leave a false sense of nut adjustment.

In other words, do not use a deep well nut driver that is too long and slides over the nut and past it, so it then contacts the trip lever and actuates it inadvertently.

TIP: Before you finish tightening the screws that sandwich the interior portion to the exterior portion, pull up on the interior handle and then finish tightening the screws. This will ensure that your hardware has the tightest fit possible.



To replace: I will need the 5-digit part number off the back of the interior handle. I have attached the different examples below of where to locate that number as it will not be molded in the casting.

I recommend taking photos of the BACK of both the interior and exterior handles as I may need more information.

If you need to replace your interior handle and it is black with a rod on the back, I will need a photo of the rod so I can see where the bend is located.

You may call 800-431-8616 if you have any questions.





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We have a 2003 Journey and have had the same problems. I'll address the easy fix first.
I put a beige spot tie on each end of the access door to hold the access cover in place temporarily.
They have been there for 12 years.
 
The lock yourself out problem was a little rougher to fix.
The adjustment screw with the thin wall 7/16" nut had nothing to do with it.
Me, I had to take the inner skin off the door, then remove the two screws holding the inside of the lock to the outside of the lock. (sorry this was a long time ago)
On the left side of the lock there is a part attached via a rod to the outside opening lever.
That was worn and not activating the opening lever.
Climbing through the driver's window wasn't and fun..
dick
 
Also does anyone know how to fix this lock I can lock it but cannot unlock with the key anymore
This may be a dumb question, but my lock similar to yours on my 2004 Journey has 2 keyholes. One is for the handle lock and the other is for the deadbolt. Did you try another key? The adjustment that everyone is talking about should not effect locking or unlocking with the key. Turning the 7/16 lock nut in the hole on the door edge adjusts the engagement between the handle and the door frame. If you have it adjusted out too much and close the door, the handle will not release the door and you will lock yourself out. Make sure to unlock a window somewhere. 🤣 If you need a video explanation or better detail, let me know.
 
I did actually take the door apart and the lock mechanism cleaned them all kept messing with the key and finally it turned all the way as it should and now works fine put everything back and works like new , the panels I have decided stainless steel screws with flat heads like some of the trim and painted to match ( found some color match paint off the website I’ll add later
 
We had to take the rear cap off to replace the radiator and we fastened it back on with Gorilla Glue. You can do the same with grill bars and I have done that as well, but I fastened them with a zip tie to let the glue cure for a while. No problems.
 

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