2002 Itasca Horizon 34HD No 12 Volt House Power

Thread Summary

Summarized on:
Original Member Title: 2002 Horizon no 12 volt power
This AI-generated summary may contain inaccuracies. Please refer to the full thread for complete details.
A member with a 2002 Itasca Horizon 34HD had working 110-volt circuits but no 12-volt house power after the RV had been stored for years, and asked whether bad batteries or a missing converter could be the cause. Other members suggested checking the auxiliary battery disconnect switch, verifying AC power to the charging equipment, testing for 12-volt output at the breaker area, and noting that 50-amp higher-end models may use an inverter/charger rather than a separate converter.

The owner...
More...

Randall_428

Member
RV LIFE Pro
Joined
Jun 7, 2026
Posts
22
I have a 2002 Horizon with a Cat 330. This RV has set for a while before it was given to me. I have all the 110Volt circuits that work, however I have no 12 volt power to anything inside. Is there a converter in my RV? I have removed the drawer under the refrigerator, next to the 12 volt breakers and nothing is there. i know i need to replace the batteries. Could that be my issue?
 
Welcome! It could be a simple fix. First, ignore the 110volt. Your RV come with an inverter/converter that when plugged in to shore power will just do a pass-through on the 110volt. It will also take that 110v and convert it to 12v for lights etc.

The first thing to check is if you've turned off your 12v system. There is a switch on your top upper right dash called "Aux Battery." It's purpose is to disconnect the 12v system when storing unused for an extended period to conserve battery power. When it is turned off, you will have no 12v when plugged into shore or on battery. However, you would still have 110v when plugged in as the inverter does a pass-through of AC power regardless of the 12v status.

So first thing, check that switch on the upper right of your dash and see if it's off.
 
Are you a new user, meaning that a bit of briefing on how to expect the RV to work might help? Not to abuse you if you already know this but maybe a review will help?
I think of RV as three electrical ssytems that work together at times and seperate at different times.
One is what we would find on a normal truck that works what we would find there for 12VDC. Stuff that works off the alternator on a truck?
Second is the House/coach items like you have trouble with not working. Those work either of two ways. They use the coach batteries if good power there. Those batteries get can get charged different ways. When we are driving, they are connected to the normal truck alternator and run lights and other 12VDc stuff inside witht eh extra going intot he batteries. But when we stop and the engine is off, we can get power back OUT of the coach batteries OR we can plug the AC power cord into an outlet and there is a converter that "makes" DC from that AC power if we have it. We don't necessarily HAVE to have the batteries butwe can't store any extra iwth no coach batteries! The batteries might be like a pantry where we store what we don't need to use right now?
Then there is the third 110AC power we get from plugging in the cord or running a generator?
So the details are important to sort the question. If no coach batteries, those inside coach that make the RV part can't work if we have no coach batteries, UNLESS we do one of the other things to give it power. We can start the RV engine or generator to allow the coach power from the alternator running or we can start the generator and let it give us 110AC to run microwave and outlets as well as the converter to let it make the 12VDc for the RV inside things like lights, vent fans and controls for lots of things like furnace and Air!
We need to know which model of 2002 Horizon to get down to locations and be specific.
2002 Hor.jpg

To look real close we need to know which! But in general the idea is there will likely be a converter built into the back or near the 12VDc fuses that power inside things.
To run those things without the batteries installed, it needs to get 110AC power from cord or generator, if the engine is not running to let it get 12VDc from there!
But a common point is a switch that cuts off the batteries for when we store the RV. It needs to be turned on but we can't look where that is located until we know which to look at!
Help to know if the converter is actually getting power is that it likley has a bit of hum when powered. No hum when standing near the inside fuse panel likely means it is not getting 110AC!
2002 hor 34.jpg

Do a bit of checking and let us know which RV and we can dig deeper if needed?
Have you got hands on an owners manual to help guide you a bit on where to find things?
Winn home site under "owners" tab can help find a lot of things we never heard about!

Good luck and let us know how it goes! :unsure: (y)
EDIT? I notice the 2002 Horizon does not show an inverter but converter only!
The 2004 vectra came with inverter charger, so there will be some difference in the two RV.
 
Last edited:
My RV is the 34HD.
Thank you for the helpful information middle and Morich.
I have a question about the house Batteries. They are roached. I am buying new batteries for the chassis and for the house power tomorrow. I found the battery switch on the dash when I push it I hear a high pitch squeak. Nothing happens. Do the batteries come into play if they are bad? I have had an RV years ago (1992) and I do understand how a converter/inverter works.
Just trying to figure this out. I really appreciate your input.
 
Okay, got to pick a place to start and decide which way to go!
If you are set up and can plug into power with the cord, we might first make sure that power is getting to the converter, and also the converter is making the DC to send on to the breakers, so I snagged a part of that drawing to help find a semi-handy looking spot to check.
Click on this snip to get a better view to read it.
2002 convert.jpg

From sheet two of this drawing if you want to go to full picture as I cut a lot out to fit!
If the converter is getting the AC it needs to make the DC, I expect to hear a hum if quiet. But if you have a meter and find this stud with two number 6 black wires, that might be a place to check for 12VDC coming out of the converter that feeds most of the breakers for inside things!
Winnebago stamps ID on their smaller wires and drawings. See the red marks? If we find the ID on wires, we can then go to this list to get the from and to locations of that wire! A long string of letters and numbers but the last 2-4 are the ID.
The breakers or fuses are often drawn looking from the back so mentally turn it around to get the location when looking from the front!! In that way, you can often find the fuse labels on front that may tell you what it feeds but also the chart can tell you if the labels are missing or not as complete as we need.
What the list and ID do is let us find where to expect something like voltage or ground on any specific wire.
2002 ID.jpg

Basic idea is that we need to see 12VDC coming out of the converter when we have 110AC going in! Or is the 110 not getting to the converter? A wire loose at that isolated stud could be killing most of the inside 12VDc things! Or there may not be any AC getting to the converter, so we might need to chase it in that direction.
The way Winn does their drawings puts the 110AC on a different drawing set.
All wiring drawings here:

But on the noise you hear, that doesn't sound right as the relay/solenoid is a big heavy duty thing that should just thump as it moves and holds. I see the switch as top left switch at dash.
I know this circuit as common one they used for a long time. But in this drawing they really missed what they were doing.
The idea is kinda simple after we know what to expect. When we push the dash switch, it should send 12VDC down to this solenoid that is often near the batteries but I have not found it on your RV, yet. Battery on LR goes to the small lug on the solenoid and they did draw it like it looks but not right on wires. that bat. should go to the coil inside to pull/operate the contacts to close. There should be a big battery cable on each side on the big lugs. One goes to coach and the other to chassis batteries to connect them when the contacts close!
2002 sole.jpg

Not going to work with no cables on it! But I don't think of any noise other than it often makes a "thump" as it closes those big contacts. I think this will also be closed when the RV engine is running as a way to get some charge back into the coach batteries after we might run them down camping. But I've not see that, so just going on what other Winnebago do! Don't trust that guess until tested?
If you can hold a hand on this solenoid while somebody pushes the switch or if they start the RV, you can often feel it thump. That should send power from the engine alternator over to the wiring for the coach and the inside lights and such should start to work if things are set right on the battery disconnect switch, etc.

On the inverter and converter questions, it is often a case of names changing as new stuff is used. Inverter use 12VDC to make 110AC, while converter do just the opposite and use ac to make DC. They started with converter to make DC, came up with wanting to make AC, so they added inverter as a stand alone item. Eventually they combined inverter and converter under the same cover and now we get all kinds of different names and versions of doing the electrical. You may have an inverter as a stand alone unit somewhere but I have not seen it yet.
Way too much info?? I better quit before both our heads split!

o_O o_O :LOL:
 
Last edited:
Good luck and let us know how it goes! :unsure: (y)
EDIT? I notice the 2002 Horizon does not show an inverter but converter only!
The 2004 vectra came with inverter charger, so there will be some difference in the two RV.

A 1500 watt inverter/charger DC/AC with remote panel (probably Dimensions) is listed as an optional feature in the sales manual. Guess I just assumed (I know what they say...) that it was installed as I have never seen a Vectra/Horizon of that era without one. My bad.
 
No big thing as long as we all agree that things are changing quicker than we can keep it straight.
I just found they have changed my cell phone and now I have to learn a new way to answer a call!!!
I think of how easy it was to just walk over to the wall and know the phone would be there, pick it up and say hello!
I now I have to first find the phone before it stops calling me, wipe my hands and hope to figure which way to slide the button and do it QUICK before it gives up on me!
I guess as long as we are allowed to stand up every day, I better quit complaining?
 
Okay, got to pick a place to start and decide which way to go!
If you are set up and can plug into power with the cord, we might first make sure that power is getting to the converter, and also the converter is making the DC to send on to the breakers, so I snagged a part of that drawing to help find a semi-handy looking spot to check.
Click on this snip to get a better view to read it.
View attachment 2466506
From sheet two of this drawing if you want to go to full picture as I cut a lot out to fit!
If the converter is getting the AC it needs to make the DC, I expect to hear a hum if quiet. But if you have a meter and find this stud with two number 6 black wires, that might be a place to check for 12VDC coming out of the converter that feeds most of the breakers for inside things!
Winnebago stamps ID on their smaller wires and drawings. See the red marks? If we find the ID on wires, we can then go to this list to get the from and to locations of that wire! A long string of letters and numbers but the last 2-4 are the ID.
The breakers or fuses are often drawn looking from the back so mentally turn it around to get the location when looking from the front!! In that way, you can often find the fuse labels on front that may tell you what it feeds but also the chart can tell you if the labels are missing or not as complete as we need.
What the list and ID do is let us find where to expect something like voltage or ground on any specific wire.
View attachment 2466510
Basic idea is that we need to see 12VDC coming out of the converter when we have 110AC going in! Or is the 110 not getting to the converter? A wire loose at that isolated stud could be killing most of the inside 12VDc things! Or there may not be any AC getting to the converter, so we might need to chase it in that direction.
The way Winn does their drawings puts the 110AC on a different drawing set.
All wiring drawings here:

But on the noise you hear, that doesn't sound right as the relay/solenoid is a big heavy duty thing that should just thump as it moves and holds. I see the switch as top left switch at dash.
I know this circuit as common one they used for a long time. But in this drawing they really missed what they were doing.
The idea is kinda simple after we know what to expect. When we push the dash switch, it should send 12VDC down to this solenoid that is often near the batteries but I have not found it on your RV, yet. Battery on LR goes to the small lug on the solenoid and they did draw it like it looks but not right on wires. that bat. should go to the coil inside to pull/operate the contacts to close. There should be a big battery cable on each side on the big lugs. One goes to coach and the other to chassis batteries to connect them when the contacts close!
View attachment 2466531
Not going to work with no cables on it! But I don't think of any noise other than it often makes a "thump" as it closes those big contacts. I think this will also be closed when the RV engine is running as a way to get some charge back into the coach batteries after we might run them down camping. But I've not see that, so just going on what other Winnebago do! Don't trust that guess until tested?
If you can hold a hand on this solenoid while somebody pushes the switch or if they start the RV, you can often feel it thump. That should send power from the engine alternator over to the wiring for the coach and the inside lights and such should start to work if things are set right on the battery disconnect switch, etc.

On the inverter and converter questions, it is often a case of names changing as new stuff is used. Inverter use 12VDC to make 110AC, while converter do just the opposite and use ac to make DC. They started with converter to make DC, came up with wanting to make AC, so they added inverter as a stand alone item. Eventually they combined inverter and converter under the same cover and now we get all kinds of different names and versions of doing the electrical. You may have an inverter as a stand alone unit somewhere but I have not seen it yet.
Way too much info?? I better quit before both our heads split!

o_O o_O :LOL:
 
I am going back at it tomorrow morning. I need Batteries so I am going to Freightliner to get 2 new Engine batteries (86.00 each) and getting 3 new interstate 29 SRM for the house power. It is currently parked next to the gentleman's house that gave it to me. it is on house power and verified that the breakers are getting AC voltage. I just have to locate the darn converter. It's not where the Winnebago schematic shows it to be under the refrigerator. I did however see the 2 black cables where the 12-volt breakers are, that you talked about. I guess that is where I start tomorrow with my meter once the new batteries are installed. I have received some real information from you guys and hopefully I can cure what ails my RV. Thank you everyone and I will keep posting until I have the Final solution. Maybe my dilemma will help someone else down the road.
 
Good enough! Fully understand needing to do it when it fits.
I might throw in some things you may need if/when you get to it on what you may have on the 110AC side of things.
One thing to be aware of is that there are FOUR different wiring layouts for that RV!
Two are 30 amp and the cord has three blades at the big plug. Or if looking at the AC breakers, there will be a 30 amp main breaker on each of the two different wiring models.
One of those 30 amp versions will have a stand alone inverter breaker panel, while the other doesn't!
Same if you have the fifty amp model that has four blades on the cord plug! One fifty amp version should have no inverter panel while the other does have the seperate panel.
I hate to keep throwing you a curveball on what you may have but this is what the drawings show and we always have to keep in mind that things may get changed over time, so trying to find what you have is like learning to read a road map.
The road map for Missouri can look pretty much like the map for Michigan but if we need help on which road to use, we need to be sure to get the right one when we open the map!
This is the drawing that should show us which model you have of the four:

If you can take a look at some point to see if you have the 30 or 50 amp (Different plug and different main breaker) and if there is a seperate inverter panel or no, it can help to get on the right drawing!
If the owners manual is not on hand, this should get you to a copy online:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/OperatorManuals/Operator2002/02Horizon.pdf
And I see a couple things that may help?
Found the 12volt and 110 breaker panels?
One under frig and this one at bed?
Did not spot any mention of seperate inverter panel or location!!
2002 hor 110breakers.jpg

If not finding power coming out of converter at that isolated stud they mention, this may be something that has gone open and not closed like it should when it cooled?

1780926426281.png

I'll leave you with the problems and let you get back to it as works for you!
Like eating an elephant? First we have to figure out if it is really an elephant before we decide which end to start on! :unsure:
Maybe it's only a rabbit but we have to figure that out as we go along! (y)
 
Last edited:
LOL!
IMG_1383.jpeg
IMG_1383.jpeg
IMG_1383.jpeg
IMG_1382.jpeg
IMG_1382.jpeg

Ok, on my control center a light on says AC open overheat. also, when I flip the switch on the dash for the power I do hear a clicking noise under the dash now. So, I think with your help I am narrowing down my issues. its getting closer to being solved. I am in las Vegas and it does get hot here. The Rv has been stored for several years plugged in without any Maintenance. The overheat you mentioned is suspect, but i am narrowing down the other possible problems.
 
LOL!View attachment 2466790View attachment 2466790View attachment 2466790View attachment 2466791View attachment 2466791
Ok, on my control center a light on says AC open overheat. also, when I flip the switch on the dash for the power I do hear a clicking noise under the dash now. So, I think with your help I am narrowing down my issues. its getting closer to being solved. I am in las Vegas and it does get hot here. The Rv has been stored for several years plugged in without any Maintenance. The overheat you mentioned is suspect, but i am narrowing down the other possible problems.
Also, I received a call from Winnebago, I was told if it is a 50 amp service (which it does)then it would only have a inverter. It is mounted in the Driver side compartment by the rear t
 
Well, this gets deeper? I suspect it is a mattter of names but that can cause confusion and I think we can be pretty sure there is "something" with some name that changes the incoming AC power to DC! Got to be some item to charge the batteries or run things when we are plugged into power! But if we can figure out where power goes in and where it should come out, we may need to skip over the naming..
But we can look at what the drawing shows to relate it to what you see in the pictures.
Since you have 50 amp and the stand alone inverter panel. we can drop to the last page of the drawings for info. Congrats as you got one of the more "delux" models with more bells and whistles than the other three!
Maybe a little harder to learn but more features when you get there!
Starting att he cord or generator, I drew those as red and green. The transfer switch chooses which to pass on tot he load center I drew as blue. It is not 220Volts like we expect at home but two different legs of 110 each. Those go to two main breakers and feed to the two air units as well as the other smaller breakers. These breakers are what you see at the right in your pictures and are all AC power!
AC in.jpg

What I marked at right in orange area are things that are controlled by a "load shedder" box located nearby the breakers, usually? That box decides which of those items gets power and which gets cut off (shed) when power gets short. Not involved in the main problem that we know about!
The rest or your AC power not used for airCond. or load shedder goes down to the inverter breaker panel that is on right in your pictures. Kind of like a mini breaker box of it's own?
That box has a main breaker where power comes in to feed the smaller breakers for circuits on further out. Not room to get them on this snip!

They seperate their drawings into AC and Dc groups but we know there has to be "something" that changes AC to DC and we get no info on where that item is connected to this AC power???
Kind of baffled as I feel like there has to be a connection from AC to "convert" to DC but it is not shown and this drawing only shows the output connecting to things that use AC like the microwave and outlets!!
I get a big missing link here somewhere? No point in having coach batteries if there is no connection to charge them! You have a nice, full featured RV with lots of the nicer items, but I see no way to make them work!
So I'm missing something big!
No AC breakers labeled converter?
 
What do you think 220 is if not 110 on each leg? It most certainly is 220(240). That is how you get 50 amps on each leg, not 30 amps on one. Its just that nothing in and RV uses 240 so people think it is not there.
 
Let me follow that up. A 50 amp MH has 2 50 amp breakers in the panel. That is 12000 watts of power. If they only had one 50 amp, they would have 6000 watts of power. A 30 amp camper with 1 hot wire is only 3600 watts of power.
 
Okay, on th elocation of the item that charges the batteries and gives us the !@VDc to use, maybe a different way to locate it will work. At one point I posted this drawing:
2002 convert.jpg

I think you mentioned you found the two black wires on the isolated stud?
I now find no info in the new "updated" parts catalog that tells me where or what we should expect on this RV top do the charging or 12VDC supply.
If nothing else comes along with better info on the location, is it possible to follow that black number 6 wire back to find the souce of the 12VDC? One may be labeled M and that should go on out from the source but where does Wire K lead? I normally think of these as being close together and on many the converter is actually built into back of the breaker and fuse panel. But those are also on smaller, less full featured RV!
I expect them to hum but if not hearing a hum, maybe that is a clue telling us that the converter (by whatever name) is not getting AC power??
AC often has a habit of humming and we hear it on different things like transformers or gas valves on furnaces.
They have about degraded the parts setup to the point that we can't dig out the info we need to find the parts! Bummer!
 
Last edited:
You have already answered the question about the convertor, there is one of some sort somewhere. I would take Winnebagos comment to mean it is a consolidated unit with the inverter. This allows them to use the same wires that feed the inverter to charge the batteries. It usually will tell you if its inverting or charging in that control panel he showed. And there are usually lights and switches on the inverter itself.
 
Any books on hand for this equipment? The lights look like there may be a question of settings or is it not getting the true voltage expected for 50 amp?
2002 setup.jpg

Not meaning to rush you on this but trying to keep busy while waiting. There is a new guy wandering around out in West Texas trying to find a site he has never been to before! IF he gets there and IF he gets the gate unlocked, THEN he will have some questions for me!!!
Hoping that will happen before my mind goes to mush!
Last time I heard he was looking for gas to fill up!
 
I may have found what they have not been telling us on what you have.
They tell you where the inverter is located but what they might have done is just not got the name quite right? An inverter only does one thing, make AC from DC. But if they tell where you have an inverter /charger, that is a unit that does both functions! The one you seem to be missing is the charger portion that is likely built into the same box!
We all can get sloppy but it sure makes it tough to follow if we are not into using the same language "shortcuts" they use???
So a new plan may work more direct to find why AC power is not getting to the charger portion of the Xantrex!
It might be the setup on the control panel is telling it to only expect 30 amp service and you need full 50 amp service? We don't get much help /info on that. Maybe finding the unit to get a model number for the Xantrex to get info on how to run it?
OR
There may be a problem with the transfer switch and it is not passing both legs of 110AC we need to run the charge portion of that unit?
If you are not plugged into a full 50 amp plug, maybe using an adapter of some sort on the cord, that might explain why only showing 30 amp?
But there are times when the wiring in the transfer switch gets loose on one wire.
Page 6 of this drawing set shows the transfer switch wiring and one wire may have come loose? Sometimes it seems a good practice to go in the switch and tighten the screws. As we bang it up and down the road, the soft copper can get moved around to let it come loose and then we can get arcing at that point. Not good as it can burn the switch too bad to fix!
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2026-06-09 092700.png
    Screenshot 2026-06-09 092700.png
    76.8 KB · Views: 63

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top