2000 Itasca Suncruiser 32V Slide Controller Problem

rickdee

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Aug 8, 2025
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s.c.
I'm new in this forum and hope this is ok to post here couldn't find another place OK Problem Slideouts 2000 Itasca Suncruiser the switch in and out does the same,,so its out.. always goes out..thanks
 
Welcome to the group. Hope we can be of some help!
But everything we do for the first time is like getting a new cell phone? We have to stumble around a bit to get started? But maybe we can at least do a better job of writing out some ideas of what to do so you don't have to guess so much!
So a bit of "training" may help.
Step one is good to add exact info on which RV as there are a number of different 2000 Suncruiser and before we get too deep in looking for drawings and info, we need to get the right one!
This will get us to the drawings but we need to know which one?
2000suncr.jpg

That can get us to the right drawing set and then we need to scan around to find the slideout parts. When we find a part, Winnebago then has a system to label wires, both with a stamp on the wires and also a matching ID on the drawings. We can relate what we find to each other. Also they give us an online listing of those ID.
To find that "decoder" list, go to the "Wiring Identification Guide" at the bottom left of the drawings.
With the correct drawings and the decoder list, we can then trace the wiring through the various parts and connections to test for battery and ground and where it might not be making it.
Just as a top of the head thought, the switch may be a possible item to check from what you have told us so far.
DC motors like used on many slides are often wired in a way that they reverse the polarity of the bat/ground when they want to run the motor forward or back.
But that is a pretty big guess without knowing what you have!!!

Also as part of collecting the info we need to get started, Do you have this booklet that should have come with the big bag of info on the RV??
info.jpg

That can often get lost over the years but ti is a big help if on hand!
 
Okay, I got a bit of info but not what I wanted as it is power for compartment lights and something else that doesn't involve extend/retract!
It may be there and I am just not spotting it.
But if you have3 the dash switch out and you are finding all yellow wires, I think that may be wires soldered to the switch by the folks whom built the switch. I think those wires may then go to an extension cord type setup. Like a normal extension cord with plugs on each end?
Are you able to see enough of the wiring under the dash to follow those yellow wires to a pair of plugs and then on to another pair of wires where it meets the Winnebago wires with ID stamped on them?
Something like this set of extension?
ext.jpg

The problem is that it doesn't show how long this extension cord is, so I can't say if that last plug is close by and easy to find or if it is hidden in some compartment where you might never find it!
So keep in mind that finding this is not something to tear your hair out getting to it! If you can find that second plug and get some wire ID off the wires, I should be able to scan the drawings for that ID and find something that I'm missing right now!
But not if I'm asking you to kill yourself upside down under a dash!
I think what you see is the switch but if you can find ID on the wires that Winn adds the extension on to, it may help?
switch wire to Winn ID.jpg

But it may turn out to just be a bad contact in that switch if I'm guessing right!

This switch is of the type I think you have but may not be numbered the same, etc. on details. What I am guessing is that the motor that extends/ retracts the slide is a DC motor connected to the two center lugs of this switch. When you push the switch one way lug 3 connects to 1 and 4 to 2 to get battery and ground.
But if you push the switch the other way, 3 connects to 5 and 4 to 6 where it gets battery and ground reversed to make the motor move (turn) the other way. Like a HO model RR engine if you've ever done that?

A different way to look for the problem depends on if you have a meter to test battery and ground???
If you can tell there is battery on some of these lugs and ground on others that look like they are reversed, that would fit what I am guessing. Without seeing the drawings, that may be a pretty big guess!
But what sounds right is that you push the switch toward extend and it moves as you get battery and ground connected to the motor. But when pushed the other way, you don't get both battery and ground connected to the motor.
Maybe bad contacts in the switch?

That's a whole lot of confusion that I really need to see more drawing info to have more confidence in my ideas!
But I can't find it in the sheets I have looked at so far!
 
Found one small bit of info that may get important if you need to get to the slideout control box. Not much info but perhaps something to keep in mind if it is something you can spot?
Looks like on the driver's side front corner?
Ford OR Workhorse looks much the same but wires run a little different?
slideout control location.jpg
 

Morich,wow lot of infor. one thing i left out is its the rear switch,the front ones ok,,,but im checking in back.again thanks​

 
Still not sure I'm looking the right place!
I see only one slide but you have two switches to move the slide? Not seeing the second switch location but do find wires that I think are what you see, six yellow !
Finally think I see the correct switch and it makes sense when I look up the wire ID on the chart.
But before we get too far on that, check me on what I think you mean?
You have a front switch and it works okay to extend and retract the slide? That would seem to say the hydraulic solenoids that control the fluid are working right?

But when you use the back switch, it only goes out and not in? If that is correct, it would seem to mean it really is in the wiring and not he hydraulic parts! That would be good!
If that is correct and I understand the question(??) it does seem we need to look carefully at the switch and how the wiring gets to other places.

Have you dealt with any switches like this that have one toggle or handle to move two contacts inside and they can move those contacts two directions? Called a "double pole, double throw (DPDT) switch!

Tricky switch if not used to them, but not too hard to figure.
switch description.jpg

So the way it works on this slide and the way they are wired, it works like this.
slide control switch.jpg

See the six yellow wires that makes me think this is the one you see? Power in on pin 2 meets 1 o3 to send power on to pump relay. If the pump relay and pump move the slide when pressed one way, all those parts say they are good.
but at the same time pin 5 has to meet pin 4 to extend (works?) or pin 6 to retract and that doesn't work??

So that leaves the question if power going in on 5 gets to 4, why is it not getting to 6 and on to the HWH stuff when the switch moves the other way?
Can you get a meter on 5 to see power and then check if the switch is good to pass it over to 6? If it gets to 4, why not 6?
But that is step one and checking the switch while it can be something along the path toward the HWH parts. Maybe a dirty connection on that other plug shown at left???

There's a bear in the woods somewhere but where is it hiding?? YUCK!
 
ok ill check in the am. Again thanks for all the Help.We bought this Rv as is and its been as is lol.Hoping its Switich.
 
Gm, Put meter on 5 to see power and then check if the switch is good to pass it over to 6.Yes it does. umm
 
Second small point to check? When pushed to retract 5 to 6 is good to see, but at the same time, does 2 to 3 turn on the pump? Do you hear the pump , etc. ? If not perhaps need to check that one works as well.
One set of contacts turns on the pump and the other set opens the right hydraulic valve so it takes BOTH to work?
Thinking that the valve might be opened but if the pump is not also turned on, it may still be dead!
 
Is it all good now?
If it's one of those that just suddenly started working again, it might not be that odd as RV are famous for corrosion. That tiny bit of corrosion can get cleared by something as simple as unplugging and replugging any connection.
If you found one of those, it might be a good time to go back and spray some contact cleaner on any that might have been the problem.

I've sometimes wondered how many times folks get charged for a big diagnostic and repair bill when the tech just unplugged and checked for loose wires!
 

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