1996 Winnebago won't start

[wildside2946]

We have a 1996 winnebago class A on a F53 chassis with a 460. I have replaced the idle air control, vapor cannister purge solenoid, ford ignition module, fuel pressure regulator, vapor cannister purge valve, fuel injection pressure regulator , plugs, wires and distributor and cap, OEM coil, and the fuel pressure at the schrader valve is 36. I drove it for 3 miles and it ran great backed it in the driveway and went to use it 3 days later and it cranks but will not start. Battery is charged and the air filter has just been cleaned. Getting it towed is not a option so any help would be appreciated. I have spark and can smell gas when we try to start it. We tried a sniff of ether but no luck. The fuel filter was changed last year and the tank is over 1/2 full. We scanned it with the OBD 1 reader and got no codes.

 

[Morich]

At the start, there were three things the engine needed to start, fuel at the correct place, air which is pretty easy, and spark at the correct place.
But once all the random changes are made, there are many more possible causes of the problem, so hiring repair would seem to be needed.

If taking it to repair is not an option, the only practical thought is to have repair come to you. This should not be an RV mechanic as it is just a truck problem and there are far more folks who know trucks and are better at it than there are RV folks!

I might first suggest starting the search for a small mobile truck/auto repair. If you get the hood open and the cover off the engine, the rest is just a truck question.

 

[RV_Lee]

I bet it has no spark, go over all the electrical things you changed

 

[RayIN]

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I agree with RVLee and Morich. The problem existed, many things were replaced; if any replacement was faulty or incorrect installation, now you have 2 problems to locate and correct.

 

[Eagle5]

Because it ran for three miles then failed to restart three days later, I would pull the spark plugs and check for broken center insulators. On those 460s, if you put any leverage on the outside body of the spark plug, that can translate down to the center insulator, breaking it, and it could slide-down to rest upon the ground electrode.
Another possibility is plug wire kits these days are pretty poor; not all, but some. Finally, you didn't mention replacing the Rotor. Is that making good contact with the cap? One more thing would be the Timing Test plug; is that still installed? If that were pulled or fell-out during your three-mile test run, it would be hard to restart the motor.