1989 Winnebago Warrior Fuel Tank and Brake Revival Issues

[1989Warrior!]

Hello, I have a 1989 Winnebago Warrior Class A on a GM P300 chassis. I bought it a few weeks ago with some known issues. It has the 454 engine with 25K miles. Any advice I can get will be greatly appreciated.

1) The previous owner let it sit in his barn for 18 years so the gas in the tank is too old to use. I have the engine running with a 5 gallon gas can and runs fine. I tried draining the tank at the engine block but could not get a siphon started even with the gas cap off to prevent a vacuum. Starting a siphon at the filler did not work either. The gauge on the dash pins full with the key on (probably a short) so I can’t tell how much gas is in it. Does anyone know where the drain is on the tank?

2) The passenger front brake is dragging and gets very hot. I’d like to bleed the entire brake system and replace or rebuild the calipers. Maybe replace the master while I’m at it. I located it behind the drivers side wheel so I should be able to get to it to replace it if necessary. Does anyone have a parts list for the brake system so I know what parts to order? The rear brakes appear to be drums so I will tackle them later.

3) Several people have recommended repacking the wheel bearings since it’s been sitting for so long. Does anyone agree with that?

4) Looking for the best, cheapest place to buy tires.

5) Any input from other owners about other issues would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Morich]

I can throw some light on a brake question that is easy to overlook and cost a bunch if missed!
Brake fluid is one that actually "draws/ absorbs" moistue=re when it sets. when we use the vehicle often, it gets warm and evaporates from the fluid but when it sets, it can often collect and cause rust on lots of the shiny metal parts in the whole system! Things that are normally a really slick, shiny surface like the inside of the master and wheel cylinders can rust. Then when we begin to move those parts as we drive, that rust is rubbing against the other parts that should be shiny. Rust flakes moving on shiny metal is one certain way to score those super fine surfaces and that can wind up requiring total replacement of wheel and master cylinders as a very expensive operation! Best not to drive until much of the brake system is checked for scoring as well as a total brake fluid changeout! If driven long wenough for one brake to stick, the damage from rust in the system may already be done! UGH!
Sounds like time to do much of a rebuild on things like the wheel bearings and possibly need to drop the gas tank to clear what might be a stuck gauge?
I had one of these "rebuild" jobs and was not aware of the brake question and only got one trip out of it before it was toast! Sold that one to a person who wanted to set it up as an office to never drive again!
Word of warning?
Be very careful about any propane and testing trying to light LP items! The smell that is added to proapne can be lost with time and that means you may not be able to smell a leak. That can mean you light it and yourself if not aware.

 

[1989Warrior!]

I can throw some light on a brake question that is easy to overlook and cost a bunch if missed!
Brake fluid is one that actually "draws/ absorbs" moistue=re when it sets. when we use the vehicle often, it gets warm and evaporates from the fluid but when it sets, it can often collect and cause rust on lots of the shiny metal parts in the whole system! Things that are normally a really slick, shiny surface like the inside of the master and wheel cylinders can rust. Then when we begin to move those parts as we drive, that rust is rubbing against the other parts that should be shiny. Rust flakes moving on shiny metal is one certain way to score those super fine surfaces and that can wind up requiring total replacement of wheel and master cylinders as a very expensive operation! Best not to drive until much of the brake system is checked for scoring as well as a total brake fluid changeout! If driven long wenough for one brake to stick, the damage from rust in the system may already be done! UGH!
Sounds like time to do much of a rebuild on things like the wheel bearings and possibly need to drop the gas tank to clear what might be a stuck gauge?
I had one of these "rebuild" jobs and was not aware of the brake question and only got one trip out of it before it was toast! Sold that one to a person who wanted to set it up as an office to never drive again!
Word of warning?
Be very careful about any propane and testing trying to light LP items! The smell that is added to proapne can be lost with time and that means you may not be able to smell a leak. That can mean you light it and yourself if not aware.

Thanks Richard!

 

[1989Warrior!]

I can throw some light on a brake question that is easy to overlook and cost a bunch if missed!
Brake fluid is one that actually "draws/ absorbs" moistue=re when it sets. when we use the vehicle often, it gets warm and evaporates from the fluid but when it sets, it can often collect and cause rust on lots of the shiny metal parts in the whole system! Things that are normally a really slick, shiny surface like the inside of the master and wheel cylinders can rust. Then when we begin to move those parts as we drive, that rust is rubbing against the other parts that should be shiny. Rust flakes moving on shiny metal is one certain way to score those super fine surfaces and that can wind up requiring total replacement of wheel and master cylinders as a very expensive operation! Best not to drive until much of the brake system is checked for scoring as well as a total brake fluid changeout! If driven long wenough for one brake to stick, the damage from rust in the system may already be done! UGH!
Sounds like time to do much of a rebuild on things like the wheel bearings and possibly need to drop the gas tank to clear what might be a stuck gauge?
I had one of these "rebuild" jobs and was not aware of the brake question and only got one trip out of it before it was toast! Sold that one to a person who wanted to set it up as an office to never drive again!
Word of warning?
Be very careful about any propane and testing trying to light LP items! The smell that is added to proapne can be lost with time and that means you may not be able to smell a leak. That can mean you light it and yourself if not aware.

Morich, sorry!

 

[1989Warrior!]

Morich, sorry!

Morich, sorry!

I appreciate your help!