1984 Chieftain runs for 30 seconds then dies.

[Morich]

When running into extreme trouble, heating one of the parts can help break the bond. It's obvious we don't want to use a flame on /near a carb, so heat from a soldering iron can help.
The biggest iron you can lay hands on and then lay it on the fitting as a way to heat it without flame?
When you get the small fitting heated it expands, then if you immediately hold and ice cube on that fitting, it shrinks.
That can cause enough movement to break the bond that has formed.

Extreme? Yes, but you may be there??

Also keep in mind that they may have used some kind of sealer because they cross threaded the fitting and now it is cross threaded and glued in place!
When following others, I hope for the best but assume the worst may also be hanging around!

 

[JackieBoy]

Will try a wish from a monkey fist at this point. Will try this suggestion first though.

 

[JackieBoy]

Update

Will try a wish from a monkey fist at this point. Will try this suggestion as before sell my soul. Running out of time I’m probably going to have to drop it off at a shop soon as I am moving out at the end of the month. Will update with information as to what is the problem with her.

 

[bigbAZ]

If you clean up the flat spots with a file your line wrench will fit

 

[RV_Lee]

Inside of the carb is probably loaded with green dust left over from ethanol fuel, its just running off whatever you are able to pump into the intake then quits. Rebuild the carb or just replace it if you need to move it quick.

 

[bigbAZ]

A Quadrajet is not too hard to rebuild if you have a nice clean work space to lay everything out, and can get all the parts you need. They actually look scary but really not that bad. One part that wears out is the throttle plate bushings and I could never find those, but we used to have a local shop that would re-bush your throttle plate. Of course they are long, long gone.

 

[JackieBoy]

Got a file the problem is the nut is deforming past the point line wrench will grab. Hard to see in the picture but it’s pretty gouged up and I am getting to the point of destroying the nut itself. Will keep trying though. I appreciate all the feedback as I was lost but now I’m found.

 

[TexasDon]

Even a lawn mower that has sat all winter will gum up the carb. Didn't catch how long this winnie sat. I would have started with carb cleaner or sea foam. You can sit on top of the engine and slowly pour gas into the open carb to see if engine continues running past the 30 seconds. Good bet it does. Gummed up carb. If your lucky some carb cleaner will work. Otherwise, I would pull carb and rebuild it. Its really not very hard but you can find a shop to do this for you.



If the needle is hanging up or stuck it could hold the float open or close. Open and you will pour gas out around the carb. Closed and carb won't get gas. Rap the side of the carb body gently to free up the needle valve. Do this while someone tries to start the engine.



You only need 4 things to run: fuel, spark, compression and timing. Your problem is one of these things.


If that engine has sat longish I would expect that you would also have to clean/free up the piston rings. Marvel mystery oil or some engine cleaner you add to the oil and then run the engine.



Sounds like fun ... best of luck!

I got a 1984 Chieftain 22 footer from my grandparents when they passed away. This vehicle is spotless with 0 chewed wires from mice and has been under covered storage its entire life. I have done a lot to try to get it up and running however I am in way over my head feels like.

The problem here is that the engine (Chevy 454 8,cyliner) will start up and run for about 30 seconds then dies. before I even turned the key for the first time I made sure to replace the in line fuel filter, the mechanical fuel pump at the front passenger side that is attached to the engine, and I dropped the fuel tank and replaced all the lines to the sending unit and didn't replace the sending unit as it was in good condition. Then I put fresh gas in and tried to get here going. (also flushed the radiator and replaced the old fluid with the new)

started up after the fuel got to the engine but will slow down rpm rapidly after 30 sec and dies.

the distributor cap look's fine and the spark plugs look great. Well maintained vehicle with only 53,000 miles on it. I am at a loss as to why it wont keep running. New batteries and all so its all juiced up. If someone knows of any part that I need to check out please hold my hand and show me the way.

 

[Morich]

Since this may be a new trick for you, a word of warning may be good!
When pouring or working under the hood or around the carb, be careful when cranking to start! Keep you head back from over the carb!!! Just in case is might try to fire at the wrong time as it can shoot fire back up in your face!
In an RV, you may have space to jump back without letting your head tear the hood up, but you will likely be way too slow to get clear enough to save your eyebrows!

If pouring gas, avoid using a big container full. It's lots better if you don't throw half a gallon all around ---just in case you feel like jumping!

 

[Bo Walker]

There is a large in-line fuel filter underneath the motor home between the fuel tank and the engine mounted on the frame. I think replacing it might fix the problem. Just don't put it on backwards.

 

[thataway4-WO]

Having owned a 84 Chevy V8, I would go for the carburetor rebuild, and all new spark plug wiring and new plugs (properly gapped). Check the distributer rotor and cap. check the points. All of that dust/dirt on there should be removed--and cleaned off--it can make a path for the high voltage, and not as much to the spark plug.

If you pump the accelerator does it keep the engine running or at least prolong before it stops?

 

[bigbAZ]

Having owned a 84 Chevy V8, I would go for the carburetor rebuild, and all new spark plug wiring and new plugs (properly gapped). Check the distributer rotor and cap. check the points. All of that dust/dirt on there should be removed--and cleaned off--it can make a path for the high voltage, and not as much to the spark plug.

If you pump the accelerator does it keep the engine running or at least prolong before it stops?

You had points on a 1984?? That can't be, unless I am missing something?

 

[bigbAZ]

Regardless, considering the symptoms described, in my mind the number one suspect is fuel delivery followed by a large vacuum leak (which would tend to make the engine rev up before dying). We know the spark is there because it runs.

 

[Bobn1957]

Okay, if no book on hand, some things come back in memory! Long time no see?
There are some points that may help. One in the top picture is what I think will be like the idle adjustment! Find another screw like this that moves with the gas pedal moving?
If the engine is running a bit too slow when idle, it may slowly die. Find the correct adjustment screw, when somebody pushes the gas pedal, this screw adjustment will move as the engine speeds up to ID the correct adjustment.
Until you get better training (!) I might not want to change the other adjustments just yet!
But the idle speed is not one that you are likely to get too far off without knowing it. If you study it a bit, you may see that turning the screw in will hold the throttle open just a bit when you let off the gas! Sometimes the idle just gets too slow and small turn can make it idle a bit better?
View attachment 189872

But for the stalling? When the engine is running and as it warms, that metal plate should open up as the engine warms. It is connected to a spring inside the round "knob" looking thing in the top picture. Warm air goes in, the spring moves and should open the plate to let more air in with the gas!
What you may want to look for is this sticking?? Move it with a finger or something and feel the spring want to move it back if it is cold. This was a big "NEW" idea at one time. Before that we had to manually pull a knob to choke the engine to get it to start when cold! Just starting the engine took some talent to get the right fuel and air mix to burn!

But this may be involved with why it runs for a bit and then dies. If the coke is on like I see it now and the engine start, the choke stuck closed or not opening soon enough can make the fuel mix too high and too much fuel with too little air won't burn!
With that in mind, if it comes up, make sure the plates are moving as the engine warms, and it may help the engine run if you give it more air.
That takes loosening the screws holding the ring on the round choke body, turning it slightly and then tighten the ring to hold the setting!

Way different than current engines. The biggie is that we could get enough training to be able to look, find and fix a problem, even though it came up much more often.
Now we have to take a lot of stuff in as we can't see and they tie it to a machine to tell them what parts to throw out!

We don't have to do it nearly as often but it costs a tub more when we do! When the machine fails to get it right, they may not have any idea what to do and we have to trade cars to get out of it!

His previous photo shows the automatic choke is not adjustable but riveted in place! I am leaning towards a stuck choke as well, just give the big plate a push it should move freely with a bit of sprung resistance! The big plate is the primary side of the carb and the little plate is the secondary side and it only opens when there is enough vacuum generated by the engine.

 

[RV_Lee]

A Quadrajet is not too hard to rebuild if you have a nice clean work space to lay everything out, and can get all the parts you need. They actually look scary but really not that bad. One part that wears out is the throttle plate bushings and I could never find those, but we used to have a local shop that would re-bush your throttle plate. Of course they are long, long gone.

Just checked and there are new Quadrajets on ebay for $200. I'd just grab one of those. OP could have it on there and running fine in 25 min

 

[bigbAZ]

Just checked and there are new Quadrajets on ebay for $200. I'd just grab one of those. OP could have it on there and running fine in 25 min

Maybe. I'm gun shy of new parts these days, the quality is often sub par. Finding good parts has now become the most difficult aspect of repairing older vehicles.

 

[Bobn1957]

Got a file the problem is the nut is deforming past the point line wrench will grab. Hard to see in the picture but it’s pretty gouged up and I am getting to the point of destroying the nut itself. Will keep trying though. I appreciate all the feedback as I was lost but now I’m found.

If you follow the fuel line around the bend along a straight piece you can cut the line and remove the carb, once removed you can get vice-grips onto the fitting and remove it! The piece of fuel line can be replaced with a rubber fuel line (get the marine grade).