06 Suncruiser/35U Winterization Questions

[Pubtym]

This was my first attempt to winterize my parked/stored motorhome. I read the operator's manual and decided to follow the "Water System AntiFreeze Procedure. After reading the procedure...I understood that full draining of the water heater tank was not required for this procedure ...versus the "Blow Out Procedure".

After completing all the "Water System Antifreeze Procedure" steps...as per the instructions..,I 1eft the Winterization Valve #1 in the 'Water Heater Bypass' position and returned Winterization Valve #2 to the 'Normal' position.

After a couple days and nights of below freezing temps, I noticed a small weeping of ice cycles coming out of the front cover of water heater compartment. Further investigation showed water/ice cycle weeping out of the closed Pressure-Temperature (PT) Relief Valve. I opened the PT valve and had about 4 oz of water drain out. I then reclosed the PT valve.

The following day, I found continued water weeping out fo the closed PT valve. I opened it again and had about 1 Oz water drip out. Again, I reclosed the PT valve. Fearing possible freeze rupture to the heater tank or connecting lines, I decided to remove the water heater drain plug and fully drain the water heater tank. Upon removal of this plug, I had about 4 oz of crystalized water seep out. I then left the plug out... open and reclosed (bled) the PT valve with one kitchen faucet open. Finally,as a preventive measure.. I switched the AC circuit breaker (Water Heater) to "Off".

Questions:

1. Will I damage any of the water heater tank system if I drive the coach locally to keep 12V electrical batt systems active? Should I leave the drain plug out if I do a local area drive?

2. Is there a heater 12V circuit system I should turn off as damage)protection (assuming coach house batts are on)?

Thanks,

Pubtym

 

[Pubtym]

This was my first attempt to winterize my parked/stored motorhome. I read the operator's manual and decided to follow the "Water System AntiFreeze Procedure. After reading the procedure...I understood that full draining of the water heater tank was not required for this procedure ...versus the "Blow Out Procedure".

After completing all the "Water System Antifreeze Procedure" steps...as per the instructions..,I 1eft the Winterization Valve #1 in the 'Water Heater Bypass' position and returned Winterization Valve #2 to the 'Normal' position.

After a couple days and nights of below freezing temps, I noticed a small weeping of ice cycles coming out of the front cover of water heater compartment. Further investigation showed water/ice cycle weeping out of the closed Pressure-Temperature (PT) Relief Valve. I opened the PT valve and had about 4 oz of water drain out. I then reclosed the PT valve.

The following day, I found continued water weeping out fo the closed PT valve. I opened it again and had about 1 Oz water drip out. Again, I reclosed the PT valve. Fearing possible freeze rupture to the heater tank or connecting lines, I decided to remove the water heater drain plug and fully drain the water heater tank. Upon removal of this plug, I had about 4 oz of crystalized water seep out. I then left the plug out... open and reclosed (bled) the PT valve with one kitchen faucet open. Finally,as a preventive measure.. I switched the AC circuit breaker (Water Heater) to "Off".

Questions:

1. Will I damage any of the water heater tank system if I drive the coach locally to keep 12V electrical batt systems active? Should I leave the drain plug out if I do a local area drive?

2. Is there a heater 12V circuit system I should turn off as damage)protection (assuming coach house batts are on)?

Thanks,

Pubtym

 

[ISLAPP]

I'm not sure where you read that you didnt need to drain the hot water tank. You did need to do so. You just didnt need to add any antifreeze to it. So now that it is drained, you can put the drain plug back in to keep junk from entering into the tank. Especially if you are gonna be driving the rig. You will not damage the tank while driving the rig. The only time you can damage the tank is if you have the propane or the 110V turned on without any water in it.
Mike

 

[Gas Hog]

You might want to get your rig into someplace warm to allow the water in the heater to melt. There should of been at least six gallons of water (or 10) come out when you removed the drain plug. It might be already frozen.

 

[ISLAPP]

I didnt catch the part of only getting 4 oz. coming out of the drain. If the tank was full and that is all that came out, then yes, you want to get it melted and drained. You could turn your breaker back on and turn on the 110V switch to it also to melt the water I would think, assuming you have shore power available to the coach where you have it.

 

[Pusherman]

Also when draining the hot water tank, with the drain plug out (and heater off -- cool water inside) open the pressure relief valve to release any air blocks which may keep the heater tank from completely draining.

With this valve open, the water should 'flow' out instead of 'glug' out.

 

[Cousin Ed-WO]

I would not turn on the 110. If the heater is empty it will burn out the element. Run the engine for a while and the motor aid will heat it up plenty.

 

[Pubtym]

Motor aid with engine warmup did the trick. Outside temp here was 55 degrees. Opened/removed the plug and opened the TP valve. Lots of previously frozen water out flow....looks like it's finished now.

Thanks for all the assistance..

Pubtym