30amp to 15amp adaptor

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by DryCreek

GFI will not work with a bonded neutral. Period.

Interesting. Never heard of that. Why do they work at RV park pedestals with GFCI receptacles?

[DryCreek]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Interesting. Never heard of that. Why do they work at RV park pedestals with GFCI receptacles?

The 30 and 50 amp outlets are not GFCI protected.
The 20 amp outlets usually are, and if they don't trip when you use a 15/30 amp adapter then the GFCI is not properly installed.

A GFCI works by comparing the current flow on the hot side to the neutral side. Your RV is wired with a neutral to "ground*" bond since it is considered to be the primary distribution point, and the RV site 30 or 50 amp outlet is a SDS (Separately Derived System or Source). When you have a bonded neutral, some of the "return" current is split between the neutral and the "ground" wires. This causes an imbalance between the hot and neutral current flow, and the GFCI will trip.

ETA - if your GFCI does not trip when using an adapter to your RV, then you better check your bond. As the service entry panel, it should be bonded. If not, then you could have a "hot skin" condition due to current leakage paths. Plus, you won't have the protection offered by the "ground" wire.


* Do not confuse earthing (for lightning protection) with the low impedance return path of the ground wire. The RV site pedestal should have the earthing connection as an SDS.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by DryCreek

The 30 and 50 amp outlets are not GFCI protected.
The 20 amp outlets usually are, and if they don't trip when you use a 15/30 amp adapter then the GFCI is not properly installed.

A GFCI works by comparing the current flow on the hot side to the neutral side. Your RV is wired with a neutral to "ground*" bond since it is considered to be the primary distribution point, and the RV site 30 or 50 amp outlet is a SDS (Separately Derived System or Source). When you have a bonded neutral, some of the "return" current is split between the neutral and the "ground" wires. This causes an imbalance between the hot and neutral current flow, and the GFCI will trip.

ETA - if your GFCI does not trip when using an adapter to your RV, then you better check your bond. As the service entry panel, it should be bonded. If not, then you could have a "hot skin" condition due to current leakage paths. Plus, you won't have the protection offered by the "ground" wire.


* Do not confuse earthing (for lightning protection) with the low impedance return path of the ground wire. The RV site pedestal should have the earthing connection as an SDS.

Good to know, Thanks! Probably why my LED dimmers I put in to dim the overhead light, that require a ground, still work without one, just guessing here…
Same issue with AFCI?

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by RCB

I opened up the ATS and the plastic on the terminal block where the neutral of the cord is attached was black, I removed the wires from the cord, cut them off, stripped them and put them back in. Is this enough or should I replace the ATS? It was working fine hooked to 30A.

Replace the terminal block. It is not sufficient in current capacity and was under designed. I can't tell if you have 10AWG wire or 12AWG wire going to it. In any case I think this would work: https://smile.amazon.com/MGI-SpeedWa...s%2C171&sr=8-3
The black and other discoloration on the block is indications of overheating. Your ATS is fine.

[RCB]

I thought the wire looked like an 8 coming from the power cord, is that possible? Thanks for the previous reply.

[rprochnow]

We purchased a replacement ATS from Amazon with free one day Prime delivery for $78 (including taxes).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even if our old ATS could be repaired, didn't want to risk it failing again during a trip (and not near civilization)...

[imnprsd]

If the OP just had a lose neutral connection that burned... why would this affect the terminal strip?

I agree it's under-designed, but for 30A I think it's okay.

Of course, if you leave it as-is (burned looking) then every time someone looks at it in the future they will think there is a problem there. ...So paint it white with a small brush, and save your money and your time.

[Morich]

I don't feel the OEM was undersized or built, just that as wires get loose they create a high resistance connection which acts much as the coils in any heater. They get really too hot for the connection and something has to fail. Sometimes the wire burns off and other times it is the connection which burns off. Nothing special to be seen.
Or it could have suffered from a previous hit of some sort like a small lightning strike which was not big enough to do too much damage, maybe tripping a breaker and we reset the breaker but don't find the other points which may have been damaged.

Anybody got a bum knee they hurt in high school that has to be changed out forty years later? No different than electrical problems that show up way down the road!

If you want an electrical connection that can stand up to anything that may happen, forget it! Not even trees can handle a good lightning strike!

[wyocamper]

Originally Posted by Mtn Charlie

Most home outside plugs are GFI. They are usually down stream from a GFI receptical inside the home or a GFI breaker.

My outside outlet is downstream from a GFCI receptacle on a 20A circuit, I have no problem at all running anything electrical in the motorhome, including the A/C if I shut everything else off first. I was actually surprised that it started, but it did.

[rgvtexan]

Originally Posted by DryCreek

The 30 and 50 amp outlets are not GFCI protected.
The 20 amp outlets usually are, and if they don't trip when you use a 15/30 amp adapter then the GFCI is not properly installed.

A GFCI works by comparing the current flow on the hot side to the neutral side. Your RV is wired with a neutral to "ground*" bond since it is considered to be the primary distribution point, and the RV site 30 or 50 amp outlet is a SDS (Separately Derived System or Source). When you have a bonded neutral, some of the "return" current is split between the neutral and the "ground" wires. This causes an imbalance between the hot and neutral current flow, and the GFCI will trip.

ETA - if your GFCI does not trip when using an adapter to your RV, then you better check your bond. As the service entry panel, it should be bonded. If not, then you could have a "hot skin" condition due to current leakage paths. Plus, you won't have the protection offered by the "ground" wire.


* Do not confuse earthing (for lightning protection) with the low impedance return path of the ground wire. The RV site pedestal should have the earthing connection as an SDS.

All of my RVs have worked just fine when plugged into a GFCI. RVs do not have a bonded neutral by design, the bonding is made at the service panel. that is why you have a 3 wire cord for 20 & 30 Amp and a 4 wire cord for 50 Amp.

The bonding of neutral and ground take place at the source, which is the Service Entrance Panel of the RV Park.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by RCB

I thought the wire looked like an 8 coming from the power cord, is that possible? Thanks for the previous reply.

That would be correct. The terminal block wires looked like control wires. I may be wrong. You need a heavy duty terminal strip in any case.
You might consider 2 of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Fastronix-S...%2C158&sr=8-19

[RCB]

Just returned from a week trip, used the generator for several days then two different corp of engineers parks with not issues. Orderd and received a new terminal block but haven't installed it yet. Thanks everyone for all the help.

[Sparky19053]

The discoloration is showing substantial heat was generated from the loose connection. That heat may have weaken the strength of the metals in the terminal block. Your best bet is to change it out. You may find something at the big box stores that will work. Or you can check with a commercial electrical supply house where you will likely find a quality terminal block