Rebuilding a Journey, did I take on to much?

Mobile55 · 10-25-2020, 12:58 AM

I'm a first time RV owner (motorized that is) & need a great deal of help with my recent purchase. After much consideration I decided to take a chance at a basket case 2006 Journey WKP39K that was basically abandoned & neglected severely. The interior was trashed & it has sat for 5 yrs at least. BUT, my mechanic spent a couple hours looking over the power train, etc & convinced me it's definitely worth purchasing. Batteries were robbed for the scrap core so we have no idea what the configuration is to replace with new ones. He managed to hook up jumpers to read the codes on the RV & obtain the odometer reading. 27k miles on the Cat 350 horse motor. Allison transmission has a ECM module fault code in addition to a few other codes.

I'm posting mainly for some assistance, pictures of battery configurations so my mechanic can hook new batteries up correctly. OR, do I just have this rv towed to freightliner & have them get it running? I also need reassurance that I made the right choice ��. Keep in mind, I paid very little in comparison to what this unit could be worth with some TLC.

Thanks everyone!

imnprsd · 10-25-2020, 02:27 AM

Sounds like you could use an Owner's Manual to get you started. Here's a Winnebago/Itasca link so you can find the user manual for your coach.

Winnebago Industries Operator Manuals

Note: There is also a link to a parts manual if you search for it in the above website link, and this will also be very helpful to you.

How did you get your slides out? ...Or haven't you tried?

Have you attempted to start the engine?

I have a Cummins so I can't help you there, but I will be glad to assist you if I can via PM or over the phone. ...And if the coach ran before it was parked (how long) then I doubt you need to tow it to Freightliner. ...but there are a number of things you can/should do before you revive a coach that has been sitting for 5+ years. Fortunately, you are dealing with a diesel engine and diesel generator. So I don't thing you will run into any surprises there? However, I think some other owners, who have revived a CAT or dealt with 5+ year old diesel fuel, will give you better advice.

Is the interior trashed? Did someone live it it? Where was this coach sitting in the sun and winter weather? ...Because in your pictures it looks like someone moved it over that freshly cut grass. As for the pealing paint on the roof cap, don't worry about that. Everyone has to deal with that after 10+ years.

I would be more concerned about your tires being too old. So don't be fooled by the amount of rubber on those tires, which I'm guessing are 2006 vintage. So that will be your biggest expense to replace.

be happy · 10-25-2020, 03:54 AM

I have an 07 Itasca Meridian which is the sister to the Journey. I feel that you made the correct decision. They are very well built units. As the first post said and gave you the winnebago site for the manuals and all the diagrams. Those will be more help. I will try and get you a picture of the wiring, I am not good at the pictures.

From the outside it dos not look to be in bad shape. Good luck

l1v3fr33ord1 · 10-25-2020, 04:12 AM

Mobile55-

Welcome to Winnieowners.com!

As I am in the nearing the end of a significant repair and refurbishing of our small coach, I would definitely not want to take on any project as big as you describe. I don't have the stamina. Maybe if I was 10 years younger- but then I wouldn't have the time.

Some links for you:
Winnebago Manuals and Diagrams (this will lead to the two below)
2006 Journey/Meridian P39K Wiring Diagram Book
Chassis Wiring Installation (shows batteries)

Parts list, parts catalog, plumbing diagrams, all reachable by that first link.

You should add a signature to your user profile. It usually includes the year, make and model of your coach, but can include other information. A signature is appended to each post. To create/edit a signature, click on the "User CP" link in the orange bar at the top, then click on "Edit Signature."

I hope your project turns out well!

Mobile55 · 10-25-2020, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by imnprsd

Sounds like you could use an Owner's Manual to get you started. Here's a Winnebago/Itasca link so you can find the user manual for your coach.

Winnebago Industries Operator Manuals

Note: There is also a link to a parts manual if you search for it in the above website link, and this will also be very helpful to you.

How did you get your slides out? ...Or haven't you tried?

Have you attempted to start the engine?

I have a Cummins so I can't help you there, but I will be glad to assist you if I can via PM or over the phone. ...And if the coach ran before it was parked (how long) then I doubt you need to tow it to Freightliner. ...but there are a number of things you can/should do before you revive a coach that has been sitting for 5+ years. Fortunately, you are dealing with a diesel engine and diesel generator. So I don't thing you will run into any surprises there? However, I think some other owners, who have revived a CAT or dealt with 5+ year old diesel fuel, will give you better advice.

Is the interior trashed? Did someone live it it? Where was this coach sitting in the sun and winter weather? ...Because in your pictures it looks like someone moved it over that freshly cut grass. As for the pealing paint on the roof cap, don't worry about that. Everyone has to deal with that after 10+ years.

I would be more concerned about your tires being too old. So don't be fooled by the amount of rubber on those tires, which I'm guessing are 2006 vintage. So that will be your biggest expense to replace.

The slides were already out. They had the shoreline hooked up at its previous location. It was towed to this location with the slides out apparently. The last picture is after my mechanic retracted the slides by hooking up jumpers to the battery cables. We cannot proceed attempting to start the motor, generator, etc until we figure out the battery configuration to install new batteries.

Yes, the tire tread is 90 percent but the sidewalls are weather checked pretty bad.

Yes, someone lived in it for about a year & this is how the interior was trashed. They had no care for the RV. I purchased it from the original owner & he let his daughter & son in law stay in it while he relocated to Hawaii. It was located at a small lake nearby where it is now located.

**creativepart** · 10-25-2020, 10:07 AM

The wiring diagram looks like it has two 12v Chassis (starting) batteries and 3-12v House Deep cycle batteries. Both banks are wired in Parallel.

I can't see the size of the battery but I'd guess they are Group 31 size.

imnprsd · 10-25-2020, 05:30 PM

Mobile55: We are very excited for you as we would be for all first time RV owners. However, many will also be jealous, in a good way, because you obviously bought this RV cheap, and we all know you will be very happy with your decision after you take care of a few things... and then you will basically have a new coach!

More Questions To Satisfy Our Curiosity - And So We Can Help You Get Started:

* I get the impression when you say the inside is "trashed" that you don't mean damaged? ...Is it just dirty or are all your day-night shades ruined, etc?

* What city is this coach located? Is it humid there? (...So we can recommend a place for you get paint and/or service near you.)

* Is your fuel tank full? How much is in it?

* I highly recommend Michelin Steer Tires with a bag of "Equal" inside so you never need to balance the tire, but many owners say they like the Toyo tires because they are less expensive. (Just don't buy the Michelin RV tires... as I wish Michelin would take these tires off the market... but that's just my opinion.)

How to get your coach rolling with maximum care -- before you start your engine:

* If you HWH-Jacks are down... clean and spray with WD40 before you cycle them.

* Drain all your 15-40W oil and filters in both the engine (~4 gal) and generator (3 qts). This is easy so don't let your unfamiliarity scare you. Just watch a You-Tube video. Tip: Find a DEF funnel at a local gas station you know services a lot of diesel pick-ups. These guys use DEF jugs and throw the funnels away, and the funnel is perfect for refilling your engine oil. You also can use those 2.5 gal Def containers to hold your old oil.

* Depending on how much Diesel fuel is in your tank you have to assume it has algae in it after 5 years. ...And this is where you need to do some investigations. (Note: Someone with CAT experience may correct me, but this is what I would do.)

BEFORE STARTING YOUR ENGINE -- DON'T BE IN A RUSH

==> First you need to find out what what condition your fuel is in an if you have any water in your tank?

Since I'm not familiar with how a CAT engine gets primed, I am reluctant to say this, but if you had a Cummins with a 12V lift pump this is what I would do:

* Get a bucket and surround your primary fuel filter with the bucket. Then unscrew your primary fuel filter just enough to break the seal. Then turn your key on (but do not try to start the engine) so the lift pump pump pumps fuel and water (if any) into the bucket for your inspection. ...And if it looks good you can proceed to start your engine.

Note: If it smokes at first it will probably go away after a few minutes so don't worry about that.

* You can add any number of diesel fuel additives, and let them work their magic over night or for a couple days, but if you don't have much fuel I think I would first dilute it with as much new fuel as you can easily transport. Or you can just and a higher concentration of fuel additives and biocide. (The biocide is most easily found on Amazon.)

* I would also order engine and generator oil & fuel filters on Amazon too!

HOUSE BATTERY OPTIOINS

If your battery tray can accept 3-12V batteries, then you can also fit 4-6V-GC2 Golf Cart batteries in that same tray, and usually golf cart batteries are more durable and cheaper. This is the route I took last summer, because Costco was offering $90 Golf Cart batteries (x4, plus tax); and then you can order 9" battery cables on Amazon. (1-black and 3-red would be my recommendation.)

==> Also, you want to orient your batteries so the negative terminals are "to the rear" in your battery tray. This is so if you ever need to jump your house batteries the negative terminal will not arch against your door hardware when you connect the battery-jump-cables.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...6VJ7QMJ6&psc=1

==> New house batteries really need to be equalized and charged for 1-2 full days before you start using them, but you can cut-and-run with off the shelf batteries if you have to.

==> Also the right way to connect your positive battery cables, and negative battery cables, is on the furthest posts. However, I my situation, I had trouble putting all these cables on one post. So I bought a piece of copper stock (on Amazon) and cut and drilled a few holes to achieve this configuration. (See picture.)

ENGINE BATTERY OPTIONS

Your old engine batteries are typically sealed 12V-950CA. However, you can't find them everywhere. A Semi-Truck battery store will have them, as will freightliner, but in major towns you will get a more competitive price. So shop.

GENERATOR SERVICE

Easy... Just find a YouTube video to watch first so you can gain some DIY confidence.

Like your diesel engine it will feel foreign at first, but you will quickly learn that changing fluids are not much different than servicing your car! ...You just need bigger wrenches and bigger buckets! ...In fact, I keep 2 plastic laundry bucket on hand for my fluid changes.

and... I keep extra fuel filters when I travel on the road.

Please keep us posted as you make your way around your RV.

imnprsd · 10-25-2020, 06:04 PM

Unfortunately, your coach wiring diagrams will not really show you which wire in your battery bay go here or go there. ...And I sure you are just looking a a mess.

To assist you with this, here are some tips:

HOUSE BATTERY CONNECTIONS (assuming your house battery tray is located above your engine batteries)

Rule #1: Separate your negative battery cables from your positive. How? Just follow, and label, your cables... by first finding your ground lugs to the frame and then trace your negative cables.

==> Then find your positive battery cables by:

A) Trace the Inverter Power cable to a 200A fuse hanging on the side wall. Note: This would be a good time to take that fuse apart and if necessary wire bush it if needed.

B) The other large cable hanging in your house battery bay will snake all the way over to your battery disconnect and/or boost solenoid. These solenoids (in my coach) are located behind a metal cover next to your inverter. However, I don't know if your Journey has the same inverter location as mine.

==> You will then find only a few cables left over & this is important: One of those cables will be a Temperature Probe your inverter uses to connect to the NEGATIVE house battery post. This cable will have a odd looking end to it. And you DO NOT want to hook this up to the positive terminal, because it could damage your inverter. (I assume you have a Dimensions Inverter, but I may be wrong.)

ENGINE BATTERY / STARTER CONNECTIONS

I will attach a wire diagram that may help, but you really need to be sure you you connect your wires up properly. My engine battery cables have lots of sub-system cables. So maybe you can use a volt meter continuity (beep) checker to find your GOOD Grounds.

Note: The picture of these starter circuits was taken when the basement AC was removed. That's why you have so much access.

Plus, in this diagram I have a CAPS pump, but you have a CAPS-II pump, which means you have a HPCR System. (High Pressure Common Rail, which you can learn more about in many more months to come.)

imnprsd · 10-25-2020, 06:22 PM

This chart is probably representative of your house battery - solenoid - inverter/charger configuration:

Mobile55 · 10-25-2020, 07:14 PM

Wow, you guys are so helpful. Mechanical & electrical are out of my comfort zone unfortunately. I'm more of a carpenter & very excited to get my hands on the interior.

To answer a couple questions: The interior carpet was trashed so it was removed. Structurally I believe it's solid. No weak spots or leaks I can see. Mostly cosmetics. I fear the plumbing could be a mess because it was left unattended for awhile? I just need to get it running so I can focus on these issues over time. My mechanic suggests I have it towed to my local freightliner dealer to get it running.

There is NO diesel in the RV. The people that trashed it ran the generator until it ran out of fuel. Then they ran electric to the RV I'm assuming because it has a small heater & fridge inside the coach with an extension cord running outside. The picture where it sits now is after the park had it towed away.

I have talked to the original owner & he is absolutely sick about the condition of the coach. Paperwork inside the coach documents the cost new was upwards of 140k. I purchased it pretty cheap but I do have my hands full. Thank you all for the help. Keep the feedback coming as I am reading everything & passing on the info to my mechanic. I'm just having a difficult time navigating this site to post additional pics, etc.

imnprsd · 10-25-2020, 07:53 PM

Mobil55: So are you sure you can get the title in your name?

The floor is no big woop, but you do need to do some research on how to lay vinyl so your slideout does not scrape it.

IMO, I would not go to Freightliner. Not because I don't like them, but because I would save the $1K in towing fees and buy some batteries, and order some parts on Amazon as discussed above. Freightliner will charge you double and will not want to mess with your RV systems. So that's not where I would go.

I would hook-up with a $40-$50/hour RV service person for 1 day ($400) and he will get all your coach systems running. Then you can tackle cosmetic and other maintenance items as you go or wait until next season when the climate warms up in your area.

You can copy all the above posts to your MS-Word and print out a .pdf. Your RV mechanic will know what to do; and you my friend will be on your way to looking forward to enjoying your travels.

Cataska · 10-25-2020, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

The wiring diagram looks like it has two 12v Chassis (starting) batteries and 3-12v House Deep cycle batteries. Both banks are wired in Parallel.

I can't see the size of the battery but I'd guess they are Group 31 size.

This is the way my 2005 itasca meridian is wired Cat 350 3 house 2 chassi

imnprsd · 10-26-2020, 02:27 AM

Correction: I just found out that your CAT-C7 does not have a priming lift pump similar in function to my Cummins lift pump. So you can forget about my suggestions to check for algae and water in your fuel like I described above. That procedure may work for a Cummins, but not a CAT.

Here's a video on how to prime a CAT if you ever loose a prime back to the tank:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGIRz7cf9SM

So I have to ask, do you CAT owners out there have to use a hand priming pump every time you change fuel filters and/or do you need to use a suction tool like the one used in the video above?

I would guess not, because that would be a real PITA.

...Is there a ball valve in the fuel line and all you need to do is cut the fuel from draining back to the tank... to prevent loosing your prime when changing filters? ...I don't know? What's involved when you change C7 fuel filters?

Did you RV come with a hand priming pump like I read in this thread? ...And is the only time you need to worry about loosing a prime... is when you run out of fuel?

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f124/c7-...me-448294.html

Cataska · 10-26-2020, 08:29 AM

I just prefill my filters about 3/4 of the way and fire her up no priming or primer pump.

Mobile55 · 11-08-2020, 11:43 AM

Update: We did get everything to fire up after adding some diesel. The coach won't move because we're assuming the transmission ECM code that we knew about before the purchase. I plan to have it towed to freightliner in the next week or so. BUT, one of the leveling jacks is stuck in the down position with a hydraulic leak. Does anyone know the simple way to fix this issue in order for the tow truck to take it away? TIA

al1florida · 11-08-2020, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mobile55

Update: We did get everything to fire up after adding some diesel. The coach won't move because we're assuming the transmission ECM code that we knew about before the purchase. I plan to have it towed to freightliner in the next week or so. BUT, one of the leveling jacks is stuck in the down position with a hydraulic leak. Does anyone know the simple way to fix this issue in order for the tow truck to take it away? TIA

Here is the owners manual with the procedure to manually bring the jack up: https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml30123.pdf

The pump and fluid reservoir is accessed by hinging up the entry steps.

Mobile55 · 12-07-2020, 11:49 PM

Got my journey out of the shop. New tires, alternator, Air dryer & misc. Had everything serviced. Runs like a top. Now for the interior.

imnprsd · 12-08-2020, 12:01 AM

Here's a tip: When you need it painted or just your clear coat looking like new, I highly recommend you contact Carlos in Rocky Point, Puerto Penasco, Mexico where you can get all kinds of RV services and enjoy a nice vacation.

Just do a search for Rocky Point and you will find threads with more details. I call it an RV Day Spa! ...And a great place to learn about your RV while you sip margaritas on the beach at night and work or sun all day. (Just 1.45hrs south of the Arizona/Mexican boarder and in the "Free Zone" so you don't have to deal with travel visas.)

BobC · 12-08-2020, 06:22 AM

Leaks, both roof and windshield, should be your top priority along with proper treatment of your roof edges, which fit into an aluminum channel just below the curve of the roof. Failure here can cause the entire fiberglass roof to blow off ($$$$$$). There are numerous Winnieowners threads on these issues, but here are a couple of helpful links:

RV Repair Section - 2002 Winnebago Journey | Chaos Leaves Town

(roof issues are under the Chassis Repair and Fixes tab)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPoGxxNEtnk&t=273s

You should also consider replacing your converter/charger with a modern one with a multi-stage charger that will be kinder to your new batteries. Powermax makes a variety of these in different amp ratings.

Also, as far as your house batteries go, make sure you replace them with "true deep cycle" batteries and not RV/Marine batteries, which are dual purpose deep cycle/starting batteries. True deep cycle batteries are more robust with respect to handling deep discharges. Any so-called "deep cycle" battery with Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) in it's specs is a dual purpose battery and not a true deep cycle battery. Many will suggest LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) batteries. Although they have many advantages they will cost thousands of dollars and I suggest holding off for now and making that decision once you know what you're dealing with and are educated on the subject.

You are correct in suspecting your tires even though they have "good" tread. Most RV tires age out well before they wear out, especially if they've been sitting for years. Although many will suggest that Michelins are the only way to go, they're expensive and there are many quality, lower priced name brand options. I suggest finding a good truck tire shop and explore your options with them.

Morich · 12-08-2020, 07:56 AM

Sounds like you are getting along very nicely but there will be things come up as you get into using the RV more. So it's time for a word of warning that many miss! RV are not all the same and the wiring is one place where you can really get in a mess if you "think" what happens on one is the same as what to find on yours. They are not the same, so look for the info for your specific year, model, and size before going with the stuff that says it's the same.
Something as simple as confusing battery and ground wires can really cost you a bunch!