New Class A Owner: 2004 Itasca Suncruiser 33V

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Hello everyone, brand new motorhome owner. Recently purchased a new-to-me 2004 Itasca Suncruiser 33V. We actually don't camp much (I haven't since 2009) but we are dog show people and intend to use this as a mobile hotel room more than anything. Although I always did love camping in motorhomes when I was a kid, so we may do that more now that we have something to use.

I am happy with my purchase since we got this thing pretty cheap, but there is a list of items I want to work on soon. Any thoughts or advise on these issues?

• Redoing the sealant around various parts of the roof.
• This rig was the only one we looked at in this age range that wasn't riddled with water damaged ceilings. It only has 1 small stain near the shower skylight that was supposedly there from the 1st owner (prior to 2015).
• Previous owner says he went up on the roof every year to reseal as needed, but when he came out of his garage with a tube of the material he used, it was Dicor. I am under the impression Dicor is not suitable for winnie roofs, and i Have tracked down the appropriate sealant part number based on PDF docs that point out each type needed. He also only resealed the cracks themselves, in the old sealant.
• Based on the above, should I redo all of my old seals or just ones that appear to be cracking, or ones that have cracked that the previous owner used dicor to cover those cracks?
• I have the dreaded windshield leak. I am under the impression this is likely rust on the frame. Can I use Enternabond tape across the top of the windshield to create a fix for this without having to remove and grind the rust off the frame? Both windshields are fine, so I hate to remove if not broken
• I also wonder if the windshield leak could be from my top clearance lights. Upon inspection, two of them have no silicone around their rim (or only a little bit left) while the others appear in tact. What kind of sealant is used on these? I can't find that info in the diagrams
• I've studied up on the Winnie roof system and I am aware of how it's constructed. Based on that, I have inspected the seal that holds the roof tucked in and it appears to be holding strong. If it's still holding well, should I remove and put new sealant or just wait until it starts to weaken? I am assuming it's original. Previous owner was totally unaware of maintaining that seal
• The living room slide has some issues coming in. It goes out smooth as butter, but coming back in, you have to rock the switch many times before it will start to move. You hear a motor, but nothing happens at first. After rocking the switch several times it'll start to come in and goes smooth.

Thank you! We can't wait to get out on the road with our new rig.

Drew

[Morich]

There are as many different ideas as people when it comes to how to best seal an RV!
I have used Dicor for many different RV and never had to revisit the spots. However, it is true that new sealants will often not stick to old sealants. New silicone will not stick to old!
This is true of sealing Rv or sealing aquariums. I have more experience with sealing tanks but the process is the same for me.

First step is to be sure you are working on the correct spot as water can be very tricky in the way it runs generally down but may take a very complex route to get to the spot it comes inside for you to see!

One way to feel better about getting the correct leak sealed is to do ALL ot the seals near that spot! That will take far more time, far more effort but also can avoid the damage of missing the right spot!

I look at what is there first. If there is a big gob or layer of sealant of any type, I remove it and clean the spot super well. One of the oscillating tools with a flat blade is one I find super for removing caulk/sealants with too much work or gouging the material. Rubbing alcohol or minerals spirits does it for me with lots of scrubbing and using new rags.

Then I try to "think like a raindrop"! How will water in that specific spot move, when setting or driving?

I watch those lights very carefully as they are a real suspect! I usually take them off and start from scratch on them, sealling both around the holes where the wires go in, just in a circle and then after putting the light back, I also seal in a tiny thin line around the edges. Double seals? Yes, becasue I know they are famous for leaking and the outer seal gets weather and goes bad before the innner seal which is out of the weather abuse!
You will likely find lots of sealant but keep in mind that more is not often better if it forms some type of "lip" around things like vents and the lip can hold water to set there long enough to find a way in. I want all seals to taper to let water run downhill and away!

But you will find a really wide range of differing opinions on sealing and mine is simple one that I use, not necessarilly the only way that works.
What you may read on "expert" websites? Those are actually written by people who depend on lots of traffic to may them money. They are often not REAL experts but just folks like us who will pass on what they may have read, whether they have ever done the job or not!
Getting a firm consistant answer? Not going to happen!

I'm more in tune with the slide question! I can give you pictures from online and I trust that far more than ideas on sealing!!

You have hydraulic rams which move the slide as shown here.

This drawing set, on sheet 76 shows the pump involved in jacks and slides:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...04/4ifg33v.pdf

Those hydraulic rams have tubing /lines which run back to a hydraulic pump under the RV and likely work off the same hydraulic pump as the other slide and jacks.
The pump tank and fluid are all common. But at each line going to all the different places the pressure is used, there are control solenoids. The pump running makes super high pressure and when the correct solenoid opens, that pressure goes to the lines and to the correct ram or jack to move things.
The solenoid is just a valve (switch?) which is opened by the electrical signal which starts at the slide or jack controls.
Think of it as an electrically operated gate for the pressure? Pump builds pressure when it runs and solenoid opens the gate when it gets the signal from your switch!

In your case, if all the other items like jacks and other slide are working, there is likely a problem in gettting the specific solenoids opened to let pressure run to the rams for this slide!
The possible items to check are that the electrical switch is working right to pass the word to the solenoid. That seems okay if it works after a time but it "could " be an intermitant switch? It "could" be a loose wire?

More suspect might be the solenoid on the pump is sticky and not opening when it gets the signal. That can need some good info on which brand, model, etc. pump you have and then locate which solenoid works for which line going to that slide. First checking that the 12VDC signal gets from the switch inside to the solenoid?
As I read it, changing a solenoid is not all that complex but I also admit to never having done it!
Others will have better info on that idea.

[Rewd]

Thank you Richard! That is great info! I'll read over and digest it all haha.