winnebago model 33-v blower motor

[golden 1]

Hello I have a 33-v 2003 Winnebago I'm trying to locate the fan/blower motor for the coach heater it has a low/hi switch on the dash and blows out of the coach register on the floor. When the fan is on low it rattles, vibrates and actually blows a fuse if left on I want to replace or rebuild the motor but I can't find it. It sounds like it is right next to the water heater under the floor but I cant find access to it any where. Does anybody out there know thanks golden 1.

[Heating man]

My 2002 itasca suncruiser 35 U the heater is behind the water heater to the right of the front storage bay. I replaced the motor on mine I had to take the water heater out to get to it. I also had to remove the whole heater to get the motor out it was not easy. I don't know if yours is in the same place ornot.

[golden 1]

thanks, I hope that's not the case but that is the correct location the sound comes from. Sounds like lots of labor.

[DAN L]

Originally Posted by golden 1

thanks, I hope that's not the case but that is the correct location the sound comes from. Sounds like lots of labor.

check the archives of this forum using the search function.
ims some have repaired the coach heater basket blower with epoxy without having to remove it.
it seems that the basket migrates on the shaft and hits the housing.

[Hikerdogs]

Originally Posted by DAN L

check the archives of this forum using the search function.
ims some have repaired the coach heater basket blower with epoxy without having to remove it.
it seems that the basket migrates on the shaft and hits the housing.

That's exactly what happeded with the one in our 2001 Adventurer. And yes the water heater had to be removed to gain access to the heater/fan assembly. The good news is that if money is more a factor than time you can slide the squirrel cage fan back to the proper position on the shaft. However you'll have to come up with a way to secure it in place so it doesn't slide again.

The not so bad news is the entire unit can be replaced for about $250.00. The new units have a redesigned locking system so the fan won't move on the shaft.

We had ours replaced at the factory in Forest City. In our case the water heater had to be removed for repairs as well so there wasn't much additional labor to replace the heater/fan unit. At first I was just going to have them repair the original unit. When they told me the repair would only be about $50.00 less than a new unit, AND they wouldn't gaurantee it wouldn't slip again I opted for the new unit.

I kept the old unit and it's happily working away as a heater in my end loader. It doesn't get much use, and it's easy to access if something does go wrong

Some better news is that for a few years (don't remember exactly what years) the longer Adventurer series motorhomes had an access paanel below the heater/fan unit. Maybe you'll be lucky and have one of the models with the access panel

[winnie32v]

Ditto on the replacement of the blower/heater unit on the 2001 32v.
I had to do the same.
There is a VERY DETAILED write-up of the step-by-step proceedure w/ photos for doing this.

I recall that the new, complete unit was cheaper than the replacement on the blower; and....I believe my resistor was bad (low speed) so it was an easy decision to get the drop-in unit.
I recall I paid $288 + shipping.


The procedure was sent to me from this forum when I had my problem.
If you need this ...please email me and I'll find it and send it to you.
Regards,
Paul

[golden 1]

thanks for the info very helpfull

[sswilson]

We had a problem with this blower on our 2000 35 Adventurer. It made noise on low and eventually blew the fuse as it seized up. I crawled in behind water heater and found the housing cover. I was able to remove about 4-5 metal screws and slowly bend the plate open far enough to get my hand and a spray can of WD 40 far enough in to spray all over the fan and motor. This did not hurt anything. I then removed the floor vent and used a long wooden spoon to reach in and get the squirrel cage fan to break free. Once the fan started to move, I was able to flip the switch and get it running on it's own without noise and fuse blowing. Slowly bent access door back and replaced screws. This has continued to work for the last 1 1/2 years. I don' think this is used enough to prevent seizure. If you get it going, make sure you turn it on at least once every time you run the Moho.