Water Heater will not light on gas

Tim&Paula · 10-20-2010, 04:46 PM

My water heater will not light off on gas. The gas is on at the tank. All other gas appliances work. When I toggle the gas switch inside the coach the pilot light indicator does not light up. I do not hear the ignitor. Any suggestions?

TXiceman · 10-20-2010, 05:53 PM

Have someone inside turn the heat on and off while you are outside with the door open. Listens and look for a spark at the ignitor. If there is not spark, power it down and check the fuse if it has one as well as clean the power connections and try again. Still no spark, probably a bad board.

The manual on the water heater has a trouble shooting section.

Ken

AFChap · 10-20-2010, 06:05 PM

I presume your WH is an Atwood. You need to check the thermal cut-off ...it is on the face of the WH in a little plastic sleeve. You can check continuity on the cut-off with a meter ...if none, it is blown. They come in a two-pak as I recall, and I always carry an extra as they tend to go out ...the most common cause of WH failure in my experience.

It is possible to take the thermal cut-off out of the system, and connect the wire that goes to the cut-off directly to the terminal where the other end of the cut-off attaches ...if the WH then lights, that also would confirm the cut-off is bad.

BE VERY AWARE that running the WH w/o a thermal cut-off in place can be quite dangerous. It's function is to kill power and gas flow in event of a flash-back ...if it is not there to do it's job you would have a serious fire in event of a flash-back.

David K · 10-20-2010, 06:51 PM

I always check the thermal cut off by removing it from the circuit. That is the easiest way to confirm -- especially if you don't have a device to test continuity. I do not recommend running your heater without it in place. Remove it to check and if it is the problem, then replace with a new one. Paul is right --- they come in packages of two and cost around $20.00 for the package. As a thought to everyone out there, I have bought the component part on Ebay before --- purchased a quantity of them for about 10 cents each and then made my own thermal cut offs --- a much cheaper way to go as the total "thing" then costs about 30 cents each.

Tim&Paula · 10-21-2010, 05:32 PM

Thanks for the help. I will let you know what I find.

tiggertoo · 10-21-2010, 10:25 PM

Try checking the ground screw to the control box. Sometimes it rusts and causes high resistance. Start with the cheapest fixes first.

Good luck

Tim&Paula · 10-23-2010, 03:47 PM

It was the thermal cutoff. I am going to order one today. Thanks for the help.

Tim&Paula · 10-23-2010, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David K

I always check the thermal cut off by removing it from the circuit. That is the easiest way to confirm -- especially if you don't have a device to test continuity. I do not recommend running your heater without it in place. Remove it to check and if it is the problem, then replace with a new one. Paul is right --- they come in packages of two and cost around $20.00 for the package. As a thought to everyone out there, I have bought the component part on Ebay before --- purchased a quantity of them for about 10 cents each and then made my own thermal cut offs --- a much cheaper way to go as the total "thing" then costs about 30 cents each.

David,

What part do I look for on Ebay?