My heads going bonkers. $170/ linear Foot $3400 minimum etc etc. BTW, what is $170 / linear foot. Is that the same thing as a square foot? Just asking
Anyways, I have a few thin cracks on a 2004 Winnebago. I’ve done a fair amount of FiberglasS work and thought about those techniques. Then reading up everyone points to either covering the whole roof or using a “dicor” style product or eitherbond tape Sealing the cracks.
See the pictures below. I have not seen anyone post these kind of cracks. They are on the late part of the roof. Not near any vents or ridges. I’m thinking of just sealing with a Dicor self levelling product.
Take a few minutes and give me your two cents worth. I’d appreciate it.
My heads going bonkers. $170/ linear Foot $3400 minimum etc etc. BTW, what is $170 / linear foot. Is that the same thing as a square foot? Just asking
Anyways, I have a few thin cracks on a 2004 Winnebago. I’ve done a fair amount of FiberglasS work and thought about those techniques. Then reading up everyone points to either covering the whole roof or using a “dicor” style product or eitherbond tape Sealing the cracks.
See the pictures below. I have not seen anyone post these kind of cracks. They are on the late part of the roof. Not near any vents or ridges. I’m thinking of just sealing with a Dicor self levelling product.
Take a few minutes and give me your two cents worth. I’d appreciate it.
Thanks
Linear foot is length. so it is $170 for every foot.
__________________
Steve and Joy
2014 Itasca Suncruiser Where we are now
I had a couple cracks that looked like yours. They were on the rolled part of the roof, where the roof meets the side. I used fiberglass patch, I did not want to use dicor or any other roof type caulk. Eitherbond tape by the time you clean the area to make it work you might as well to the fiberglass cloth etc.
Just my thoughts
__________________
07 Meridian 36G
Roadmaster tow dolly
Great Wife!! & Max the Frisbee chasing dog.
Winnebago uses a 60 mil thick sheet of thin fiberglass that is rolled into the gutter edges for their roofs. There are several repair techniques borrowed from boat fiberglass cracks.
If the crack is superficial, ie not through the full sheet thickness, and yours looks that way, then use an epoxy based filler like Marine Tex.
If the cracks are all of the way through the glass, then grind back the crack for an inch or so on either side, apply a two inch wide glass tape over the crack soakedwith polyester resin to bind it. After it hardens, feather the edges and paint over it for UV protection or put a layer of gel coat down.
Personally, I'd go the Eternabond route for simple cracks like in your photo.
I had a pretty bad crack at the top of the rolled edge, extending into the flat roof. I screwed down some aluminum flashing over it (with caulking underneath). and then covered the patch with Eternabond. It's not pretty but it worked and is holding up after three years. In my case, the plywood substructure was cracked so I couldn't just use Eternabond.
By the way, the number of square feet in a linear foot depends on the width of the material. A linear foot of 12' wide material is going to be 12 sq feet, 8' wide would be 8 square feet, etc. Ten linear feet would be 120 sq feet and 80 sq feet, respectively.
You could repair it like any fiberglass although you'd have to research what type of resin to use. I believe the material is Filon.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
So in the linear fashion does that mean for every 12” x. the width of my unit?
Or for every 12” x the width of my tape measure or ?????
Linear feet needs a second dimension.
'Linear foot' could also be said as 'running foot' - if that helps any. The second dimension you say you need is the width of the RV. They say it's $170 per linear foot - so it's 12" X the width of the RV, in your case probably 12" x 92" (8.5'). People with RVs 7' wide ultimately pay more per square foot that someone with an RV that is 8.5' wide.
If you RV is 29' long then your cost will be 29 * $170.
Linear Mode
