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Old 05-25-2022, 07:33 PM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
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Location: Brownsburg Indiana
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Monitor Panel not working, Fuse?

My wife was putting a slide. In and didnít see a broom and it was caught, she stopped and put it back out, removed the broken broom.

Now the monitor panel is dead, nothing comes on at all, itís just dead. Could it be a fuse and if so, is it back in the breaker box in front of the bed? I checked but I didnít see anything labeled monitor panel. Pleas advise?

Thanks

Steve
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Old 05-25-2022, 08:00 PM   #2
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We are somewhat limited on info for the post 2010 models but there is a bit of info for the monitor panel fuse. It looks like it also feeds the water pump, so a check of the fuse or the pump may tell you if there is a problem there.

This is the drawing for yourRV, so you may want to go direct or click on this snip to get a better view of the info:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_178760.pdf

Normally I don't think of the slides and monitor panel as being tooclosely connected for power, so some more info on how and where this broom may have been might lead to more ideas.
Was it in a place where it may have got into the wiring for the monitor panel or some place away from that?
Not just it knocked the wiring plug off the monitor , etc. ?

Any other items failing ?
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Old 05-26-2022, 04:40 AM   #3
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Winnebago 2012 Model

Mine is a 2012 Model, but a 2011 chassis. Will the wiring be the same?
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Old 05-26-2022, 04:52 AM   #4
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Water Pump Related

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
We are somewhat limited on info for the post 2010 models but there is a bit of info for the monitor panel fuse. It looks like it also feeds the water pump, so a check of the fuse or the pump may tell you if there is a problem there.

This is the drawing for yourRV, so you may want to go direct or click on this snip to get a better view of the info:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_178760.pdf

Normally I don't think of the slides and monitor panel as being tooclosely connected for power, so some more info on how and where this broom may have been might lead to more ideas.
Was it in a place where it may have got into the wiring for the monitor panel or some place away from that?
Not just it knocked the wiring plug off the monitor , etc. ?

Any other items failing ?
The water isnít working either, so it could be related? I have a breaker and fuse box ar the end of the bed near the floor. Would the fuse be located there?
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Old 05-26-2022, 07:28 AM   #5
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Most years, the chassis is often built a different date than the RV, as they order chassis and it may set for some time before the total RV is added on top. In that time which we often callearly or latebuilds, there may be changes made to smaller parts ofeach unit.
The truth is that having any specicif RV may be somewhat different than another as they change and improve things as the year goes on far more than we find with cars. A car builder has lots of equipment set up to turn out thousands of units, where an RV is more "custom" built as electronics, etc change.

Normally there is a tag somewhere near the driver, that tells what year as well as what model and build date,so that when looking for info they can go to the correct info for that RV.

In this case, telling us exactly which RV you have would make it easier to help.

but this info does seem to show that both the monitor panel and water pump work off that specific fuse. I did not look for the location of the fuse boxbut if you have one at the bed, I would start there asthe smaller units do not have many places tospread them out. The basic idea is that autorelated fuses are oftenput on by the chassis builderand that means they are out under the hood, etc. and the RV realted willbe added by Winnebago and in the top part they have added.
So when looking for fuses and breakers, stop to think if it is part of the normal car items light outside lights, headlight, horn or inside lights, vent fan , etc. and start at the correct box.

If you are not using a meter to test, I wouldlook at fuses2 and 3 as they are for lights, pull one of them out and see if lights then stopworking. If so, swap that fuse with number 7 if you can't tell number 7 is blown. That gives you a known good fuse and see if that makes the water pump and monitor work?

For future use, if this info is not in the owner's manual, I would make a copy of the info and put it in the fuse box or where you store info as it may be needed later.
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Old 05-27-2022, 12:31 PM   #6
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Blown Fuse water Pump & Panel

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Originally Posted by Scorn View Post
Mine is a 2012 Model, but a 2011 chassis. Will the wiring be the same?
I have uploaded a picture of the fuse box. It looks like 7 is a different kind of fuse, does that matter? Sorry for not knowing, Iím new at this, thanks
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Old 05-27-2022, 02:25 PM   #7
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looks like 7 is a 20 Amp auto reset fuse for the water pump, might want to check to see if the fuse is working
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Old 05-27-2022, 02:29 PM   #8
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As shown in your photo - No 7 is a "Water and Drain Pump" fuse and it looks different because it's a 20-amp fuse and all the other fuses are smaller amperage.

Since you say the "water isn't working" perhaps there is some correlation???? But it's impossible to tell from what we know.

Here's the thing - using general, non-specific terms as you are makes it difficult to advise you.

"Water isn't working" - Does that mean your Water Pump isn't working? Or the hose connecting the RV to the water supply isn't working? See what I mean? Please try to eliminate all guessing on our part by stating EXACTLY what you are referring to.

This applies to the term "Monitor Panel is dead" in your OP (original post) as well. What Monitor Panel - exactly - isn't working - the slide control panel, or the tank and battery gauge/monitor. Or are you meaning some other "monitor panel"

Lastly Steve, all we know about what RV you are talking about is a "Winnebago 2012 Model." As you might imagine, Winnebago makes many dozens of models from travel trailers, to Class Bs, to Class Cs, and Class As. They are all different and have different wiring. They even all have different fuses, monitors, slides and everything else under the sun.

So, for us to help you we really need you to state exactly which Winnebago 2012 Model you have.
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Old 05-27-2022, 03:58 PM   #9
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I have to back off on which fuse we need to look at as what you show doesn't match the info from the drawing that I find. Either we are not getting to the correct drawing due to your RV being a different model or we may be looking at some other change like a midyear change which slightly changed the electrical.

But that doesn't really change what you need to do other than the way to go about the plan. First stop is we need to decide what to believe as what the labels on your fuses says doesn't match the fuse in the box!
Somebody has been here before and the fuses now no longer match the labels, throwing any info we can get out the window!

For best testing, I would want to use a meter and actually test the breaker as it appears you have or fuse as the info I found shows. But why is there a 20 amp where the info shows a 15? Sounds like there has been a change or trouble, so info is going to be suspect.

A way around the problem will have some risk as we don't know what the true story might be. Maybe somebody found the 15 was blowing too often and changed it out to a 20? That would NOT be recommended by most people but we can live with that until you find what is really needed.
One way to find if you are working on the correct fuse is a bit risky to the fuses but safe for everything else---if you have a fuse or two extra. I might susgesst getting a coupleextra 15 amp fuses, pull the 20 amp out, stick a 15 in and see if that brings the panel to life, If so, then check the water pump to see if it works.

That will tell you that you are working on the correct fuse but not explain why there appears to have been a larger fuse used.

The downside is that IF there really was a change made like in mid-year and the 20 is really needed, the 15 may blow when tried! That's where having a couple spares can be needed. But I have to say, the info I posted doesn't match what you have on fuses nor wire size.

For working around this, as long as you stay in this portion of thefuse panel,it is all 12VDC and that means it will not shock you if you touch it but WILL blow a fuse if you get a metal tool touching twoparts in the wrong way, so we can use that.

Normally one doesn't want to change two different fuses or change the amps of any location as it is normally sized to meet the wire used. But for testing, I would pull that 20 out with my fingers, ust wiggle it loose, then pull one of the 15 amp for something like lights that I could live without for a bit until getting it figured out, move that 15 into the slot where the 20 is currently and hope it did not blow long enough for me to check the monitor and water pump works.
Since this looks like the labels have not been changed but the fuse is different than the plan shows, if having a good 15 amp in that slot makes both the monitor panel and pump work, I would go with the idea that there was a factory change made but the drawings did not get updated to show that change and I would then replace this fuse with a matching 20 amp that resets as the correct one to use.

One could be a bit more causious and give Winnebagoa call with your exact serial number and see if they have ideas on what you are find and why it doesn't match any ofthe drawings for Via 24Q for 2011, 12 or 13???
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Old 05-27-2022, 05:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
I have to back off on which fuse we need to look at as what you show doesn't match the info from the drawing that I find. Either we are not getting to the correct drawing due to your RV being a different model or we may be looking at some other change like a midyear change which slightly changed the electrical.

But that doesn't really change what you need to do other than the way to go about the plan. First stop is we need to decide what to believe as what the labels on your fuses says doesn't match the fuse in the box!
Somebody has been here before and the fuses now no longer match the labels, throwing any info we can get out the window!

For best testing, I would want to use a meter and actually test the breaker as it appears you have or fuse as the info I found shows. But why is there a 20 amp where the info shows a 15? Sounds like there has been a change or trouble, so info is going to be suspect.

A way around the problem will have some risk as we don't know what the true story might be. Maybe somebody found the 15 was blowing too often and changed it out to a 20? That would NOT be recommended by most people but we can live with that until you find what is really needed.
One way to find if you are working on the correct fuse is a bit risky to the fuses but safe for everything else---if you have a fuse or two extra. I might susgesst getting a coupleextra 15 amp fuses, pull the 20 amp out, stick a 15 in and see if that brings the panel to life, If so, then check the water pump to see if it works.

That will tell you that you are working on the correct fuse but not explain why there appears to have been a larger fuse used.

The downside is that IF there really was a change made like in mid-year and the 20 is really needed, the 15 may blow when tried! That's where having a couple spares can be needed. But I have to say, the info I posted doesn't match what you have on fuses nor wire size.

For working around this, as long as you stay in this portion of thefuse panel,it is all 12VDC and that means it will not shock you if you touch it but WILL blow a fuse if you get a metal tool touching twoparts in the wrong way, so we can use that.

Normally one doesn't want to change two different fuses or change the amps of any location as it is normally sized to meet the wire used. But for testing, I would pull that 20 out with my fingers, ust wiggle it loose, then pull one of the 15 amp for something like lights that I could live without for a bit until getting it figured out, move that 15 into the slot where the 20 is currently and hope it did not blow long enough for me to check the monitor and water pump works.
Since this looks like the labels have not been changed but the fuse is different than the plan shows, if having a good 15 amp in that slot makes both the monitor panel and pump work, I would go with the idea that there was a factory change made but the drawings did not get updated to show that change and I would then replace this fuse with a matching 20 amp that resets as the correct one to use.

One could be a bit more causious and give Winnebagoa call with your exact serial number and see if they have ideas on what you are find and why it doesn't match any ofthe drawings for Via 24Q for 2011, 12 or 13???
Richard, thanks so much for your help. I had my neighbor test the fuse, 20 Amp reset and it was good. Itís the water pump that isnít working. The monitor panel doesnít reflect any data at all when you touch it, up including the. Water Pump button.
I also noticed that some of the fuses were different amps then what was written on the sheet that listed what the fuses were. I will try that tomorrow. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. One last thing, can I replace that reset 20 with a regular 20? Steve
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Old 05-27-2022, 07:28 PM   #11
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Yes, from a safety standpoint the20 is the same. The main difference is that a "normal" fuse has to be replaced where the other can be reset without needing replaced. So if one goes with the ordinary fuse, having some on hand may be a good idea, at least until you get used to what to expect.

On the water pump, do you know if you could normally hear the pump to know if it is trying to run and pump water now or is it not getting power, etc so that it is an electrical problem?

IF the pump is not trying, then you need to check for power and ground at the pump connections, but if it is running but you don't get water, that sounds more like a plumbing problem and need to check for valves closed or open so that there is air getting into the lines.

Wierd things can happen if we forget one valve here or there and sometimes the pump work is but it is just pump water from the tank and back to the tank!!

What has happened is that we no longer get the best wiring info and can't trace things wire by wire if it is after a 2010 model but then we do get far better interactive drawings to show where all the parts line plumbing lines run so we can do much better at looking at that but less on wiring!

If you get to the pump and find some letters like this picture shows, those can be sorted on this chart to tell us the "from" and "to" for that wire:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

If you get interested in looking over a new toy online, this is the interactive parts catalog and it gives all kinds of info on where things are as well as the parts numbers and lots of good info. But it does take some getting used to driving the thing!

https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm

But if you know you have a pump and don't know where it is or even what it looks like, you can search down the list and find the pump, click it, which then will show up yellow on the drawings!

But you can spend all day just looking for things!!
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Old 05-29-2022, 02:45 PM   #12
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Smile It Was a Blown Fuse but not the one we thought.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tim myers View Post
looks like 7 is a 20 Amp auto reset fuse for the water pump, might want to check to see if the fuse is working
I got home from church this afternoon and decided to check all the fuses in the panel starting from the left # 9 is mislabeled DVD, a 15 Amp. I pulled the fuse and it was bad, replaced it with a new 15 and now, thank goodness water pump and monitor panel are now working.

I also replaced # 5 with a 20 from a 15 since that was written on the panel. It was the refrigerator. I hope that was alright.

I am going to contact Winnebago and get the the correct DC panel fuse # to make sure all are correct.

Thanks so much for all your help for this novice. Been camping for 40 years but not much of a problem solver, but I'm trying.
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Old 05-29-2022, 04:51 PM   #13
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It sounds like you have a good plan to ask what is going on with your fuse panel as it is really not right in lots of ways when compared to any info you are getting.
But also a word of warning, may be worthwhile to keep in mind. The Winnebago folks may not have the correct info either if this is a case of some hammerhead repairman changing parts of the system without any regard for what he might be setting upfor future owners!!

First step, for me, is to admit that we have little information which is correct, so we have to ask where did it get so wrong?
Part of finding what should be correct is correcting the labels but more important than the labels is making sure the fuse size is safe for the wire size! We often fall into thinking the fuse size is set by what item it powers on the end and that is certainly part of the decision but that gets back to how much power that item needs and what wire size is required to carry that amount of power.

The problem I see on your fuses is not only that they are labeled wrong but there seems to be some really odd thinking going on with the wire sizes compared to the fuse sizes.
Wire colors are often different for different size wires, just to make it simple for the folks building things to pick up the right size without having to study the wire itself, just look at the color. But your wire colors do not seem to change to meet the different fuse sizes used???

It brings the question of how did the fuses, wires and labels ALL get so messed up? Was there damage of some sort and a rebuilder just threw in what he felt right? Did the wiring gets burned off and they just picked up most any wire to make the repair?

And as a last thing, I would want to make sure I knew which items/circuits worked on which fuse as a way to cover for future potential problems. It is much easier to find which fuse/wire combo feeds what while things are working instead of when things stop working. One is it is easier but also much nicer to do it when you want to do the work instead of when on a trip and under stress!!!

I would go this way. After talking to Winnebago, if they do not tell you something that really explains how you got to this point, I would go one stepfurther and test what they tell me.
If they tell me the frig is on fuse "X", I would check the frig is working, then pull that fuse and find out FOR SURE that their info is correct. At this point, you really have no good info for fixing the next problem and that is when we can really get into a tight spot if we don't work on getting the correct info.

Then when I know because I have tested the info, I would change the labels !

Word of warning on working in this panel as it is only 12VDC in this section. With that voltage, fingers are safer than metal as it is not high enough to hurt us but metal tools can easily get across two items and create major sparks/arcing and general trouble we have to fix!

If you have a plastic fuse puller, those are great but fingers are better than long nose pliers!

Be safe and enjoy----once you get past the current problems!
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