If you have a Parallax ATS5070 and find it needs repair, please keep us posted. This ATS5070 has not been in production for over 12 years.
Most people say you need to order a Paralax 503 for 50A applications, but I think it's possible you can replace the components in the ATS5070.
The schematic below shows the part numbers another forum member listed in his post 10 years ago, so I do not know if you can rebuild the ATS5070?
So I called Parallax and their only suggestion was to buy their ATS503.
Note: These relays are not visible when take off your ATS5070 cover. So you will need to take the unit out and remove the internal metal piece to get to the components.
If my ATS5070 failed I would try to overhaul it. But my ATS5070 has not failed so I can only steer you in the right direction.
* Sound like your Neutral Relay and/or your Hot Relay is sticking. Hopefully, the component part numbers are visible when you take your ATS apart.
* First verify you don't have any loose contacts and that your ground wire is making a solid connection too!
If you overhaul your ATS5070 please share your results with the rest of us. Thank you!
The relay for generator is sticking.
With shore power relay clicks on,
With generator the relay hangs up, a gentle tap and it clicked to transfer power.
Any thoughts on getting it to stop sticking.
I post photos of cover and internals.
The relay for generator is sticking.
With shore power relay clicks on,
With generator the relay hangs up, a gentle tap and it clicked to transfer power.
Any thoughts on getting it to stop sticking.
I post photos of cover and internals.
If a thump gets it going, I might bet it is burned contacts on the relay and I go for replacing the relay.
Relays of this type have small contacts that arc just a bit as they open and close and this arcing acts a little bit like a miniature arc welder. Each little arc, burns just a bit more until the contacts either fully stick together or they get burned enough that they are covered in corrosion and don't make contact, even though they may close.
If you are an "old school" guy, you may remember the points on car ignition before they changed to solid state electronics? It was common for a guy to get out and file the points just a little bit when the car stopped. Boy, am I glad those days are gone!!!
So we get two things that we "might" do but I only recommend one of those.
In theory, we could spend all the time to take it out and "maybe" get it apart to file or clean the contacts and they might work again for a year or so but that gets you into doing this whole thing over again!
My best idea is to replace it now and assume that covers you for a good long time!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
I still own two point files.
I work on vintage Porsches and British cars. Files still work. Lol
I agree with you
What is a good replace as this switching unit has not been made for at least 12 years.
Thanks again to all for your knowledge snd input. Very much appreciated.
* Where can you buy a relay rated for 50+ Amps? IDK. I have never replaced one, but I would prefer to replace a relay to a perfectly good ATS5070 vs. buying a new ATS503 for $250-$300???
In the schematic above I list the part numbers another forum member said worked for him. However, I don't have any current information on where you can buy one? ...And Parallax says they don't sell replacement parts. I contacted them last month.
* How do you access the relay? ...I'm not sure. My guess is that these relays are hidden behind that metal face plate the terminal block is mounted to; a and I have not found any information on how to overhaul one of these things. I also don't know why your can't find compatible parts to overhaul it, but no one seems to be doing this, because they don't have current information how to repair this perfectly good design.
Note: I would replace both relays.
==> I wonder if it is possible to disconnect the left side wires and and then open the face plate to expose the relays behind? IDK. ...From the pictures it looks like all the conduit wires on the right side can be left attached to the terminal block and then you just "open-her-up" when you disconnect the the wires on the the left side (where you see the blue wires). This is just a guess, but that would be nice if it works this way!
==> I see rivets that may mean you need to remove the ATS from the RV so you can work on it at the bench??? TBD.
Relays are common enough. ...It's the mounting screws that may or may not be different. So please keep us posted if you go looking for a relay source.
* I probably would not replace the "bridge rectifier" unless it was cheep.
Note: That other forum member I snatched these part numbers from (see schematic in previous thread) said he found a compatible bridge rectifier at Radio Shack, but that was 10 years ago. So who knows what bridge rectifier is compatible with our ATS5070?
* Same goes for the "Timer." Why replace it if it is not broken? ...but you also don't want to dissemble this ATS again in the future.
Anyway, when you find current sources and part numbers, please let us know and I will update the ATS5070 schematic above.
PS
When you file points there still has to be some "meat" left on them and a file-job is only a temporary fix. (But could still be good for 1, 2, or more years.) ...Sort of depends on how "flat" the points are and how well they mate together when you are done. ...I would replace both relays if you find a second source. Relays are cheap. Never mind the coil inside could go bad at some point.
No ideas on finding the correct realy as it may be something common or it may be extinct! We all know how that can lead into nightmares, so I did some looking for other info and found a U-tube that is of interest to see what I might guess you will find. They had a bad relay and did not find a replacement but if you look about 40-45 seconds into the video, you get to see the relay!!
That's a good video. To clarify, that mechanic used an available ATS501 (30A) model and then added a generator plug. And it looks like the cutouts are not right for the 3 conduit holes on the right side.
My RV is 50A and it would take an ATS503.
Note: I have seen ATS501 on Amazon that claim they are 50A, but I would double check that. And that part in the video about installing a generator cord may or may not apply to your situation.
Kinch:: Can you double-click on the ATS5070 schematic above/below to enlarge the schematic? ...This should let you clearly see the part numbers I am referring to? (If not let me know and I will send them to you.)
The second picture below is a screen shot off that video.
Note: I used my "Gadwin" software to capture the image on my screen and I highly recommend to everyone since it's Freeware. These are the 2 relays inside the ATS5070.
QUESTION: If anyone has filed the points down to their ATS, how long has it last before it failed again? ...Or is this a 5-10+ year solution and you would not recommend replacing those relays? ...which don't look as cheap as I first thought!!!
If it's not possible to file the points in this ATS5070; or you find it is impossible to find a second source to replace those 2 relays; or you just can't disassemble the relays from the backing plate...
...then there maybe no alternative, but to upgrade to the Parallax ATS503 (50A model).
Attached is the information a tech at Parallax sent me last month. This tech created the wire labels in the picture below and I thought that was very nice of him.
* You can also download the .pdf files attached.
* However, I am hopeful someone will overhaul (replace relays) their ATS5070 and let the rest of know how they did it?
I have an 05 Itasca Horizon and have run into the same problem a few times. After much testing and frustration my problem was the coach battery bank voltage was too low operate solenoid. (not solenoid in ATS). A battery charger connected to the coach battery bank for a few minutes has solved the problem each time.
Rosta: I don't get your point? The ATS has no 12V connections so what does the voltage in the house batteries have to do with the 120V relays in the ATS?
I.e., your 12V power grid has NOTHING to do with the 120V out of the ATS.
...As far as I know, but you seem to swear by your experiences, so I'll bite: What the heck are your talking about?
...Are you sure you are not mixing up inverter voltage to the inverter sub-panel affecting your wall sockets. That can happen, but this situation is different. And the 12V Battery Disconnect Solenoid (BDS or aka Saleman's Switch at the door) has once again nothing to do with the generator 120V to the ATS... what takes priority over 120Vac of shore power.
My batteries are at 13 bolts plus for both house and engine.
Does that seem sufficient based on your experience?
Thx
Kinch
It may not be important at this point and for this problem but this may snag you at some other time.
Batteries will not be that high except when they have been charging as they are a chemical reaction and it just doesn't go that high as a fully charged lead acid will only go to 12.8.
When this might mess with a guy's thinking is if the batteries get older and stop holding the charge, we can look at the voltage right after we have been charging and find 13 volt but that is what is called a "surface charge" from the charger which often put out as much as 14 volts.
Given time without the charger running, the battery will settle and the reading will be lower.
Just a point we often run into here and it can make us think we have good batteries when they really are not.
I don't think it important at this point, though.
On the other hand, I do see a full wave bridge rectifier on the schematic, so there is DC power involved in the ATS. No point in a rectifier if no DC used?
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
Spoke with Winnebago parts.
The replacement is ATS 501 BP.
Can only find ATS 501?
Any thoughts on the difference!
They want over $600 for 501 BP
ATS 501 is 189 on Amazon.
Just spoke with Parallax.
501 BP is a Winnebago number.
No difference between 501 and 501 BP
They also support boat and rv with two year warranty. Not available on Amazon.
Same price.
FYI
Linear Mode
