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Old 08-31-2022, 11:05 AM   #1
Winnie-Wise
 
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Front door latch does not open door locked out

The main door latch just pulls but does not open the door, acts like it is not hitting the latch to open it. Door is unlocked both dead bolt and lower door lock. I can not get into RV, all windows locked. Any ideas would help, don't want to brake a window if possible.
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Old 08-31-2022, 01:40 PM   #2
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Hi Ray,
Lots of threads when searching for:
locked out
Hopefully, one of those looks familiar to your door lock model.
This is my big objection to Winnebago making Class As with only one access door. I believe it was a big error to stop making the driver's door. Oh well.
I would call a locksmith before breaking a window; it would be cheaper.
Good luck in getting it fixed.
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Old 08-31-2022, 04:55 PM   #3
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What's the overall situation? If camping, I see you might have a tow car for making shopping runs?

I'm thinking it is not going to help to call a locksmith as the key is not the problem. Am I correct that the key turns fine but the handle just flops instead of moving the mech. inside to open the door?

If it is the door and handle I think of, it is simple to take the screws out from the inside to remove the large plates and seperate inner and outer parts. But getting inside is not going to be cheap.

Possibly one could pry gently and carefully enough to break the latch on one of the sliders----or not if it goes wrong and that puts you into the glass and that slip can run you way past a few hundred as it can mean replacing the entire window! Our broken slider was expected to cost near $700 when I drove a screw into the glass! It's tempered glass and doesn't just nick but shatters totally!

Are you near an Rv parts shop to get a door latch to replace what you have?
Do you have electricity available?
Got time or is it vital to move quickly?

If time to run and get a few things and time to do the dirty, I suggest going radical!

These locks are pretty much all the same idea but slightly different shapes and parts are put together slightly different. There is a small metal "tang" folded out to meet the parts which actually move the latch as well as the part that keeps it from moving. The metal tang is the weak spot as it bends or breaks off. That lets the key turn to unlock but you are disconnected from moving the latch!

My suggestion depends on a number of things being correct, so do check the idea as I have no idea what you have for latch or situation.

If you can find a replacement latch that matches what you have, it will let you look it over carefully to see if what I'm saying is correct.
Get a matching part to bring back as well as a grinder.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Locks/Gl...waApHEEALw_wcB

Rent or buy?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/M...66PC/309419336

Look at the new lock to spot where the screws are placed and cut where they bolt into the outer part. There will likely be 3-4, depending on brand, design, etc.

Most are kind of weak pot metal material that grinds fairly quickly so keep cutting till if falls off, then go back with the new one.

Expensive, time consuming, and bad news but far better than breaking a window!
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Old 08-31-2022, 06:39 PM   #4
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Is it possible to drill the handle at a specific point to release the latch?
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Old 09-01-2022, 08:06 AM   #5
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Had the same thing happen on ours. Not sure if your latch is identical to ours but anything is worth a try. I eventually got it opened by placing the handle into normal position, slightly pounding on the door near the latch while trying the handle. It eventually came open.

The “finger” that actuates the latch from the outside handle somehow got bent downward and slipped underneath the lever it was supposed to contact. I bent it back into position, lubed it, and it’s been good for a few years now.

I did drill a small hole and plugged it with a plastic cover so I can access the latch with a pick or a small screwdriver if it ever happens again. It will still be locked by the deadbolt so nobody can break in using the hole.
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Old 09-02-2022, 05:11 AM   #6
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Ray and Diane-

My non-Winnebago coach had a Tri-Mark lock similar to "thompwil's," with the same failure mode. There is a location on the outside lock mechanism through which you can drill to access the latch. Then replace the outside lock mechanism. A call to Tri-Mark should tell you where to drill. Or, call an RV-knowledgeable locksmith.

As far as other methods to get in:

1) I was able to remove a roof fan from the roof, reach in with a long pole, and move the interior handle enough to release the door, with the help of a person pushing and pulling on the door mechanism from the outside.

2) If you look around this forum and/or the iRV2 forum long enough, you will find a method of access that allows one to move a window lock from the outside. It involves careful drilling of a small hole.

3) If your entry door has a window, that'd be the one I'd break. The one on my coach was flat and did not move, unlike all the rest, so should've been the easiest to repair.

After the "incident," I learned to keep one or more windows unlocked. I also bent the tab on the lock, as "thompwil" did.
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Old 09-04-2022, 06:54 PM   #7
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On the left side of the handle that you pull out there is a verticle rod. With the handle closed insert a flat head screwdriver under the handle corner where the pin is. Whilep prying down on the scewdriver try opening the handle.
There is a flat piece welded at a 90 deg angle on the bottom of the pivot pin. Over time it bends down with use. Prying the handle might give you the grip needed.
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Old 09-05-2022, 04:57 AM   #8
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I was able to get a piece of aluminum between the sliding windows on the driver's side and flip the latch. I didn't have to break any glass. Oh, was I happy.
It's September 5 now. So, I feel sure you got in by now and I'm happy for you.
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Old 09-05-2022, 05:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RD Eagle View Post
The main door latch just pulls but does not open the door, acts like it is not hitting the latch to open it. Door is unlocked both dead bolt and lower door lock. I can not get into RV, all windows locked. Any ideas would help, don't want to brake a window if possible.
I just went through the same thing. I call for roadside assistance. $185 to drill the plate behind the handle and use a screwdriver to release the latch and $300+ for a new outside door opener assembly.
What happened to me is my finger bumped the lock tab, located under the handle, just enough not to engage the key assembly but just enough to keep the door from opening. Now, per the suggestion of a friend, we keep a small rubber band over the handle and down onto the lock tab.
I don't know if this will work but, knowing what I do now, I would try if I could. There is a hole in the end of the door under the striker latch. On my new lock I can open the door enough to see it. (There may be a plastic cap in the hole.) There is a chance the door might open if you can hit the rod end located behind the plug. The rod is the adjustment for the handle lift to release the latch.
Good luck. I truly feel for you in this situation. At least you are not full timing like us. Our life was locked behind that mishap! Thank God we don't have any animals. Now we leave a window unlocked.
Rick
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Old 09-05-2022, 01:08 PM   #10
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I dont know what rv you have but I had similar situation with our aspect cl C. Would not unlock or open from inside or out. Had to enter via cab door. Thought I would need a repair. Seems that after I moved the rig the door 'unlocked' and worked normally. Occurred once after. Seems wb made them electronic to lock and I guess they will even when parked IF the contact is just right. If it locks again well just move a few feet. If a cl a and cant get in well a locksmith/rv tech may be required. Maybe even jacking up and moving the rear tire could work?
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Old 09-05-2022, 01:46 PM   #11
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Hopefully you are in by now and are in the repair process.
Mine failed the same way and I indeed did climb in through the drivers window.
After several failed attempt to get that horizonal arm to stay in place to unlatch the door I drilled a small hole through the horizonal arm and put a machine screw up through the bottom and a nut on top basically making that horizonal bar 1/2" thick where it hits the release lever and now it works fine.
That was all a bit over 8000 miles ago.
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Old 09-06-2022, 03:43 AM   #12
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I have a question or two regarding disassembly/re-assembly PRIOR to becoming locked out. I'd like to go ahead and take mine apart, find the offending part and correct it if necessary and reinstall it.

This would do two things. One is try to correct a problem before I have one, and the second is that if I have a failure, I'll have some idea what's inside the lock.

So, for any of you who have removed the lock, is it as straight forward as removing the screws from the inside? Any surprises? Any cautions and/or recommendations.

Thanks
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Old 09-06-2022, 08:11 AM   #13
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Much may depend on brands but Ifound no springstogoflying off, etc. When going back, it needs some study to make sure things are lining up and connecting in the right way but nothing super hard to spot.

The harder point might be getting the adjustments back to correct if you change any of the screw together items that adjust how far it moves? Not the mounting screws but the part inside.

If you have the sort with a long narrow "strip" made of pot metal, I have see an after market item to replace that pot metal with real steel. One of those things that might make a cynical person say itwas designed to fail!

Considering the low cost of new handles and the high price of failure, A whole new handle might not be a bad choice?
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Old 09-07-2022, 10:03 AM   #14
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Thanks Morich! My intent would be to take it out of the door and not mess with any of the adjustments. Maybe a little clean and lube if appropriate.

The pot metal rod to which you refer is exactly what I'd like to check out. Count me as one of the cynics. I also remember reading something on it and thought I saved it, but if so I can't find it. Might you remember when where you may have come across it? I'll try searching threads here although that's always daunting.

I'm also going to explore drilling a small hole for emergency access to the mechanism.

Thanks for your thoughts.
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Old 09-07-2022, 10:15 AM   #15
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We had ours replaced, and after a long trip, 3500 miles, it started again. I took it off, made sure that everything was still "OK", and just retightened the screws again. It has worked since. But it really is the horizontal catch that I believe is the problem. I will try the fix suggested above to prevent the handle puller from sliding over that horizontal opener.
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Old 09-07-2022, 01:39 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Upinsmoke View Post
Thanks Morich! My intent would be to take it out of the door and not mess with any of the adjustments. Maybe a little clean and lube if appropriate.

The pot metal rod to which you refer is exactly what I'd like to check out. Count me as one of the cynics. I also remember reading something on it and thought I saved it, but if so I can't find it. Might you remember when where you may have come across it? I'll try searching threads here although that's always daunting.

I'm also going to explore drilling a small hole for emergency access to the mechanism.

Thanks for your thoughts.

This may not be the best or not?
But I did find this for an inside look at one style that has the problem with the pot metal sliding part. Maybe it is what you have?
In about 35 seconds is where the part is shown and I think this vid also has info on him selling a different slide?



Everybody who makes a vid has some angle involving money! But in this case it might be worth it if we could avoid being locked out! ?
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Old 09-21-2022, 02:53 PM   #17
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Well I ordered a new door hardware and it will arrive today. If will be keyed for my RV. Thank you all for your help.
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Old 09-21-2022, 03:17 PM   #18
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So how did you get in? Or is that still to be done?
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Old 09-21-2022, 03:55 PM   #19
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No we are not in yet but when the part gets here I am going to make a templet on where the screw holes are and drill them out. The whole door latch will come apart and we can activate the door latch from the missing plate, I hope.
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:06 PM   #20
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Locked Out Solution

Recently found myself locked out after casually closing the door on my 2003 Itasca Horizon.No problem ( says I) Just find an unlocked window and you're in. WRONG. Wife is paranoid, all windows locked and secured from opening with a thumbs crew type clamp on each window track. Was trying to determine which window to break for entry...noticed the door had 3 hinges with a 1/8 SS pin running the length of each hinge. Fortunately, I was home, used my high speed cutoff wheel to cut the head off of one end of each pin, slid the pins out. Door still wouldnt release completely, but, I could open the door about 6" on the hinge side. Got a 3' piece of 1.5" thinwall tubing, slid it over the inside handle..voila, the door almost fell on the ground. Have yet to dis assemble and troubleshoot the mechanism failure, but.....didnt have to break a window.. !!
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