Diesel, rear radiator owners, check this out

[FIRE UP]

Ladies and gents,
This topic has been discussed quite a few times here and, most have been pretty informative. What I'm talking about is the issue of the infamous "Gunk" that can clog a radiators fins as well as the intercoolers fins too. Some of the coaches out there have been retro fitted with a system that moves the blubber tube or, "blowby tube" as it's kind of technically named to a point that there's less chance of causing the effects of the clogging. Our Itasca Horizon, a 2004 model, the36GD with the 330 CAT and Allison 3000MH trans, has such.

I was under the impression that since it has the re-routed blowby tube and it exits the coach at the left rear corner that, our radiator and intercooler was and or should be, free and clear of any and all obstructions and gunk. Well, NOT SO!

Now, the video below is, to say the least, is quite grainey, gittery, and low lighted, it does show the effects of a non-maintenanced radiator and intercooler. Mostly the intercooler 'cause that's in front of the radiator. It's about a 2-minute video and depending on your screen, resolution and all that jargon, may or may not be real clear to show what I'm emphasizing here.

The way our bed room is layed out, the entire bedding must be removed, and both metal, engine covers must be removed for any type of maintenance to be done. And, even then, it's still a serious pain in the a$$ to do just about anything. But, we all expect that with a non-side radiator machine. I don't plan on getting in there all that much anyway. Back to the point. In the video, you'll see some, somewhat clear fins and then as the camera lens starts to climb, it progressively gets worse in terms of the clogging of the fins, to the point that the fins actually disappear. NOT GOOD!!!!


Let me say that, the video was shot with one of those inspection cameras that my wife got me from Costco. All in all, it's pretty good for this sort of thing but, even with the standard length lens neck on it, about 3' long, it's very difficult to hold steady, and get the correct distance from what the heck you're trying to video tape to come in clearly and, especially since it's got a cheesy LED light on the end that's about the size of a pinhead so, to say the least, it's not the best video I've done. But, I think you'll all get the point.

Some of your rigs may or may not be too difficult to do a cleaning on the fins of the intercooler and or radiator but, this one, even though the access is semi-right out in the open and not through a bedroom closet, is a PAIN, and I ain't done it yet. Now, as my son and I looked at the access to get to the fins for a good cleaning, I told him that some of the boys on the net have actually cut a section of the shroud to gain way better access. We both thought that would be the best approach for ours.

Incedentally, it's been discussed which cleaner to use on the radiators and intercoolers due to the possibility of potential corrosion factors and it seems that the consensus here is a version of Simple Green that's supposedly non-corrosive to aluminum. Well, my son, who's a tech at a large RV repair facility here in San Diego, says all his company uses is some foaming cleaner that you can purchase at Auto Zone etc. So, we'll see.

Now, here's the bad part. I already have a tiny, seeping, radiator leak somewhere in the vicintity of the lower left corner as you're looking at the back of the rig so, based on that, and, the sheer pain in the a$$ to do a thorough, accurate job, I think I'm going to pull both the radiator and the intercooler. Yep, not looking forward to it but, this way, I can get the radiator fixed, do a bang up job on cleaning both, check out and or change both belts, check the condition of the water pump bearing (C-7 so, no lube fitting) and more while I'm in there monkeying around.

Please be patient viewing the video, as stated, it's not the best but, will convey the point. I will add at this point, I've commented before on our rig heating up on grades. Well, here's my chance to see if a good cleaning of both the intercooler and radiator fins will help that situation. When I get both of them out, I'll take better and clearer pics of the effected areas. Sorry again for the quality.
Scott

Upon edit: I've since taken some still shots with another camera to show what I'm emphasizing in the video. You'll see the intercooler and it's problem gunk, and in other photos, you'll see the one section of the radiator too, UGLY!

[sgtjoe]

I had the short blow by tube on mine and the whole back end was disassembled and steam cleaned at freightliner in SLC. 857 bucks, but it was clean enough to eat off of. They installed the longer blow-by tube and then I added to that so that it extends out past the radiator to the rear of the coach. Since doing this I have not had any heating problems unless I have traveled over dirt roads. I clean mine in the summer using Dawn Dish soap in a garden hose spray bottle from the rear and from the top and bottom front.

[smlranger]

Scott,

When you pull the rad/CAC please do a blog or good write up with instructions. I have been thinking of doing the same but haven't really looked under there to see how difficult it will be. I understand the radiator/CAC sandwich weights about 150 lbs.

[Wizard]

Please let us know what cleaner your son comes up with and how it works out.

[sgtjoe]

Originally Posted by smlranger

Scott,

When you pull the rad/CAC please do a blog or good write up with instructions. I have been thinking of doing the same but haven't really looked under there to see how difficult it will be. I understand the radiator/CAC sandwich weights about 150 lbs.

Pics or even better a video would be great.

[FIRE UP]

Gents,
I will certainly illustrate the entire process of removal and replacement of the CAC and Radiator. You know, how come it's always ME that has these ultra hard jobs? The last time, it was a leaking hydraulic ram that operated one side of the bedroom slide. Talk about a serious pain in the a$$ to R&R that ram. Then it was the MMDC that lost its ground and started doing all kinds of "star wars" effects in the dash area. Now, it's a super tiny leak in the radiator that's been around for a while and, I've been nurturing it with some CAT anti-freeze about every other month or so.

I figure, it's worth the $15-$18 a gallon, about once a year (to use the whole gallon) rather than pull that radiator. Well, after seeing how bad the air flow is and, how restricted it may be, I guess it's time to roll out the big tool box and, start turning wrenches. I'm not in a financial position to just cruise on down to the Freightliner dealer and say "fix it" and "call me when it's done" type thing. I figure, I'll get there soon enough. But, while I'm certainly no spring chicken, (haven't been for decades), I've still got "some" ability to be limber enough to turn a wrench in some tight spots.

So, boys, I'll definitely keep all who'd like to know, informed of the progress, findings, and issues I have to deal with in this endeavor.

And, as for the stuff my son's company uses for cleaning the fins and things, I'll get a hold of him, and find out the brand. He says his company uses 3-4 cans of the stuff but, he says it does an outstanding job.
Scott

[FIRE UP]

To all who might be interested in the proceedure for removal,
Well, I could go into real detail here on every nut and bolt removal but, I won’t get too involved here. I will highlight the important points. From start of the operation to the point the radiator was ready to lift out, it was about 5-6 hours, plus or minus. And that included a break for lunch and a short nap. Anyway, right off the bat I want to say that those morons at Freightliner, CAT, and Itasca all together, must have known that at some point in time, that radiator would “HAVE” to be removed for various reasons. Well, to most humans, that means it needs to be DRAINED! Well, I spent the better part of 45 minutes looking for the pet cock, ANY PET COCK that would drain the system.

The only one I could find was in the heater hose circuit. I ended up using that one and isolating the heating system, albeit too late but, no biggie. I even got on the phone to Freightliner customer service and was told that the pet cock was mounted below the lower radiator hose inlet. So, I thanked them and proceeded to look for it again, NOPE, aint there! So, I finished draining the system as best I could with the heater line pet cock.

Now, as with all things on these rigs, where I tell you certain bolts etc. are located may or may not be in the same place on your rig. On the top of the radiator sits two things. One, the surge tank and two, a long, narrow, piece of straight sheet metal for sealing the radiator to the top of the engine compartment. You’ll see what it takes to get that sheet metal off. Now, you have better access to remove that surge tank. That itself is a chore on some of these. Based on the fact that the rear radiator models are a serious pain in the a$$ to do anything on, suffice to say that much of the removal of the bolts etc. is the same due to tight clearances.

Now, once the surge tank is removed, then I went after the hydraulic reservoir tank, located right in front of the radiator on the upper right side. I siphoned out all the fluid and then, removed the hoses and capped them off, then stuck them in a corner, out of the way for the rest of the work in that area. Then I removed the reservoir. Now comes the shroud. The shroud has a total of (12) bolts and screws holding it on. (4) of them are small, self-drilling, sheet metal, 3/8” head ones, two on the out edges at that top and on the outer edges at the bottom. The ones at the bottom are a bit of a pain. The other (8) bolts are ½” head, and are located on the sides of the shroud.

One of the best tools I had while doing this job was a 2” extension mirror. Make sure it’s one that has a u-joint on it so you can bend it all over the place to see at all angles when looking for all these hidden bolts. Now that all the bolts are out of the shroud that makes it slip away from the radiator when it comes time to pivot the radiator towards the back of the coach. Then, there are the upper and lower radiator hoses. Again, it’s all tight clearances in there so, good luck on loosening all the hose clamps.

Once those are off, all that’s primarily left is, the (4) support bolts that actually hold the radiator in place. On mine, there are two upper ones, one on each side, that are tied to a support strut coming from the frame and then there’s two, that are attached to the bottom radiator frame and run through the cross member, through two huge rubber grommets and have ¾” nuts on them. Be careful, once the two side bolts that hold the radiator vertical are removed, the radiator has no support. The bottom ones are just primarily “locators” in that they keep the bottom from moving in any particular direction.

OK, all the hoses are off, the shroud bolts are off, the support bolts are off, the bottom ¾” nuts are off, the radiator is ready to lift out. Be careful and, have at least two STONG BOYS to do that part. I weighed mine today and while with the steel frame on it, it only weighs 80 lbs. it’s big and awkward so, it can hurt you by lifting in an awkward position. Once it’s out of the way, there sits the CAC or, intercooler. It’s held in by some of the shroud bolts which, may or may not have already been removed. If the bolts have been removed, then all that’s needed to remove the CAC is, loosen the hose clamps to each side and carefully break the seal of the hoses to the air horns. That can be a bit of a pain, depending on how long they’ve been on there. Once the hoses are off, be careful, there’s nothing holding that thing in place with the exception of the two, recess’s in the sides of the fan shroud.

Again, get some strong bodies for lifting this thing out. It’s about half the weight of the radiator ‘cause there’s no steel frame around it like there is on the radiator. But, it’s still at an awkward angle and can hurt your back if lifted wrong. Once that’s lifted out, it exposes the inside of the shroud, the fan, and all that neat stuff behind the fan. So, there’s the semi-detail of the removal. Not overly horrible, but, time consuming and, some limberness will be needed for access to some of the nuts and bolts. I’ve probably left something out, I’m old, I do that sometimes, well, most of the time. So, if there are any questions, surely let me know. I’m including some pics of the radiator and intercooler as they sit on my work table and you can see how bad the contamination is. Yuck!

Oh, and by the way, it wasn’t until we set that radiator no my work table that I finally found the “pet cock”. You see, the steel frame that surrounds the entire radiator has a hole in it, on the passenger side, down low of course and through that hole is access to the pet cock. ARE YOU KIDDING ME FREIGHTLINER? REAL SMART MOVE!!! It’s virtually IMPOSSIBLE to even get at that pet cock while it’s in the chassis, let alone be able to actually turn it to open it up. And then, even if you could, you’d be draining it all over the sub frames, cross member, hoses and tubing, exhaust pipe and more. You’d have to have a catch basin about 3’ in diameter in order to be able to catch the anti-freeze as it dripped and ran from multiple points.
And, in case any of you are wondering, I did not use the special version of Simple Green for the “pre-soaking scenario. I used some ZEP, citrus based degreaser. It seemed to loosen the grime, grease, and baked on scum fairly well. But, I then used my 2650 psi. pressure washer to do the majority of the work. It had no effect on the fins and, did a bang up job.

Now, here’s the deal. I don’t know how good a job anyone thinks they’re doing on cleaning the radiator and CAC while in the chassis but, I can tell you this, based on how much my units were clogged up, the actual access to the entire surface area of both the CAC and the radiator which, is severely limited due to everything under the sun is in the way for use of a nozzle or hose or even being able to spray whatever cleaner one decides to use, it would be IMPOSSIBLE for an accurate, thorough, and complete cleaning of both of them without removing them.

Don’t get me wrong here. It’s admiral to give it your best shot when it’s in the chassis and, unless your access to the entire surface area is seriously better than mine, it won’t get the entire surface area of either clean and free of debris. I mean it’s so tight and crowded in mine; I can barely get a flash light in there to look around. I couldn’t even get my camera in there to take some pics so I could see if the situation warranted the removal of the two. I had to use my inspection camera with 3’, snake like lens to get close enough for look.

Removing them from the coach is a pain in the A... NO DOUBT ABOUT IT! And, if you don’t have the skills, time, place to do the work, tools, or, energy to do it, and have to pay to have it done, doing it with them off the chassis is the only way to get a complete job, in my opinion. If you’re one of those types that have the ability, time, tools and place to do the work, you’ll definitely save bookoo bucks on the labor side. Yours may differ. Anything is better than nothing. But, do get in there and inspect. Borrow an inspection camera if you have to. You can bend the lens neck to all kinds of angles so you can see as much as possible. Even with that one it’s difficult. OK, enough blabbing. I hope this helps anyone with the drive to do this type of job. Surely PM me if you think you’d like to know more. Good luck.
Scott
P.S. Pics of the present situation are fourth coming.

[smlranger]

Scott:

Did you find the source of the radiator leak....tubes, tank seam, fitting???

If I had the rad out of it, I would take it to a radiator shop for a good cleaning, check and repair.

[FIRE UP]

smlranger,
YEP, I sure did find the sourse of the leak. I'm including pics of the problem area. In short, it's the tank seal, on the left (drivers side) lowest "clamp" section, right on the end. You see, I'm not sure if you or anyone else knows how these things are built or not but, it's fairly simple. It's an aluminum core, with two plastic tanks that are "clamped" to the core via what I would call a "ring clamp". There's about a thousand tabs that are bent over, and take a grip on a lip, on the tanks.

Well, as you'll see in the pics, and, I proved it, (via a low pressure leak test) that the end portion of part of the clamp, has either slipped off the lip of the tank or, it was never on in the first place and the seal was new at the time and thick and pliable so, maybe it took up the gap of the improperly postitioned clamp. Heck, I don't know, I'm imitating Sherlock Holmes here.

I do know that it's leaking and, has to be fixed. Now, here's one for you all. I called Freightliner with the Vin 6 and, hope you're all sitting down, that radiator is $1,841.37!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And, there's 7 of them in Memphis TN. Well, I called a local radiator shop prior to findind out just where the exact leak was at and, and asked them (knowing it could possibly be the tank/seal thing) about repairing these style radiators and they said they have the tools and equipment to work on that tank clamp. Well, I had the part number for the radiator so I thought I'd make more calls and look around. Well, none to be found with the exception of the 7. But, one of the parts guys that was working with me in Colorado, brought up a PDF on the break down of that radiator.

Yahoooo, he sent it to me and low and behold, there's "REPLACEABLE" seal that can be put in that tank/core!! That seal is $150.00! Well, that's pallatable, based on the "Other" option. Now, I will know in about a couple of hours if, when they look at it, they'll have confidence in the ability "un-bend" all those tangs, remove the tank, replace the seal, and re-install the tank. We'll see.
Scott

P.S. In the last picture, you'll see how the end portion of the clamp is SUPPOSED to look.

[topdownman]

Can you replace the ring along with the seal? In that third picture the ring looks "crunchy".

[smlranger]

Scott, I am very familiar with that type of radiator construction. When I was working in my Dad's radiator shop in the mid 1960's, most radiators were brass tanks sweat onto copper cores. However, there were a few 'crimped' radiators coming onto the market but we did not repair them. Most new cars now have plastic tanks crimped onto aluminum cores.

Based on how it looks (looks like a lot of corrosion at the tank/core interface) and the fact that you plan to travel a lot in that coach, I would get a new radiator. However, I would try to get a brass tank/copper core radiator. I have seen a link to a company that provides these but it is not on this computer. I will find it and forward to you.

Update: here is the link:
http://www.rv-radiators.com/radiators.html

Looking at this website, apparently most everything is now aluminum core.
I guess I am getting too old. I guess brass tank, copper core rads are pretty much a thing of the past.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by topdownman

Can you replace the ring along with the seal? In that third picture the ring looks "crunchy".

topdownman,
Well Sir, no, you cannot replace the inner (what you see in the corner that looks real bad) section. It's part of the core of the radiator.

Originally Posted by smlranger

Scott, I am very familiar with that type of radiator construction. When I was working in my Dad's radiator shop in the mid 1960's, most radiators were brass tanks sweat onto copper cores. However, there were a few 'crimped' radiators coming onto the market but we did not repair them. Most new cars now have plastic tanks crimped onto aluminum cores.

Based on how it looks (looks like a lot of corrosion at the tank/core interface) and the fact that you plan to travel a lot in that coach, I would get a new radiator. However, I would try to get a brass tank/copper core radiator. I have seen a link to a company that provides these but it is not on this computer. I will find it and forward to you.

I would think any really good radiator shop that repairs heavy truck/bus radiators could advise on the wisdom of repairing that radiator vs. getting an new one.

smlranger,
Well Sir, it's nice that you've got background and experience in this type of situation. We just got back from the local radiator surgery center and, the prognosis: HOUSTON, we have a problem! Me being me, I was telling the head guy at the radiator shop that if he could not repair that really bad section (the corner) than I would. I told him I could weld it. He immediately said, "if you could weld that, then you need to come to work for us". Well, I was sort of backed down a notch or two.

He then proceeded to use a small tool (hose removal tool) and showed me that, that corner, is part of the core. And, as soon as he pushed on it just a tiny bit, it crumbled away, exposing the seal. So, he gave the radiator its last rights. It's going to radiator heaven. Well, I was facing the seriously ugly fact of forking out, $1900.00, radiator and shipping from Freightliner. He said "You don't want to buy it from Freightliner, buy it from us. So, guess what, you're absolutely right SML, he came up with the exact replacement, in COPPER/BRASS!!

My cost, $1,000.00 plus $75.00 for shipping. Well, I pondered it for a minute or so. I then stated that in todays world, many, many folks, hot rodders, water cooled dune buggies, MOTOR HOMES, trucks etc. are using ALUMINUM radiators due to the more effeciency of cooling as opposed to the copper/brass types. I also emphasized that this application is in a Diesel pusher and, the cooling system is not the same as a puller situation. Obviously I was concerned of the effeciency of aluminum vs copper/brass.

He stated that he sells to many, many truck and buss companies and, they've all worked just fine without heating issues what so ever. So, the decsion was, go with the aluminum one and, wait 7-10 days for it to get to me and, a $1900.00 bill or, have a copper/brass one here on Monday morning and, a $1,075.00 bill. Decisions, decisions.

I gave him the "All clear" and he ordered up the Copper/brass one. So, that, partner, is the story. Now, to get all the steel framing etc all cleaned up, repaired, and painted. I broke on of the studs off in removal. So, I've got to weld in a new one. And, there's two, long, very thin rods that you see from the back of the coach as "clamping"/tie rods. Those both broke when trying to remove the nuts. Well, a quick trip to the local hardware store and we returned with two, all-thread, 10/24 threads. That will work just fine.

So, that's it, and, it's time to go and start some cleanup of the engine compartment. Seems I got some time to do it now.
Scott

[smlranger]

Scott;

I think you made the right choice. As long as you keep it clean and coolant up to spec, I don't see any issues with that copper radiator running your coach cool. Also, if that core ever develops a leak, copper/brass radiators are easily repaired.

I am glad to hear that there are still good copper core, brass tank radiators still available for our coaches. At one time, I could see just a bit of coolant sitting in the left lower corner of my radiator, so I figure mine has a small high pressure leak. I am running cool for now and not losing any visible coolant so I will leave mine alone. Since we plan to keep this greasy beast, I will eventually have to pull the rad. When that is done, I will replace the water pump and put a new rad in there.

How was the CAC? Is that in good shape? At the age of my rig, if/when my rad is replaced, I would likely also replace the CAC.

[FIRE UP]

sml,
Well, at this point, the CAC is at least clean. I degreased it and pressure washed it prior to the radiator. Now, is there any problems with it? Not sure yet. I've not done any "Home made" pressure testing like I did with the radiator. On the radiator, I put some industrial grade chemical special duct tape on the inlet and outlet. I plugged the overflow with a 1/4" pipe plug and then, I used the pet cock to introduce air, at about 20 psi so I could spray down the potential areas with soap and water. It worked flawless.

Now, to test the CAC, I'll have to come up with some other "MacGyver" ideas to plug those rather large inlet and outlet and still put about 40-50 psi worth of air into it. I'll think of something. Heck, even the radiator place offered to test it for me. All I can say at this time is, I think, it's good 'cause it looks good.
Scott

[megehrs]

YIKES. You da Man Scott. The previous owner of ours said he replaced the slobber tube and radiator a year ago. This is something I will keep an eye on. Loved the pics of the top of the engine with the bed taken apart. Have not taken mine apart yet.... maybe this spring to check for leaks on the hoses on the top of the engine. Don't know of any for now, but need to get familiar with the diesel way of doing things. Always been a "gasser" until now.... Great Job and thanks for sharing. Mark

[ron55]

Thanks, that is some really good info!

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by megehrs

YIKES. You da Man Scott. The previous owner of ours said he replaced the slobber tube and radiator a year ago. This is something I will keep an eye on. Loved the pics of the top of the engine with the bed taken apart. Have not taken mine apart yet.... maybe this spring to check for leaks on the hoses on the top of the engine. Don't know of any for now, but need to get familiar with the diesel way of doing things. Always been a "gasser" until now.... Great Job and thanks for sharing. Mark

Originally Posted by ron55

Thanks, that is some really good info!

To both (all) of you,
Thanks for the nice comments. As I do with any of my RV related repairs/projects/alterations/fabrications etc., I put what I've done in both writing and pics on here so that many of you "do it yourselfers" will have some idea of what's involved in the particular operation I'm doing at the time. Many of you saw my generator surgery I performed and some have learned from it and dove into theirs based on what I encountered during my exploritory scapleing (don't know if that word exists).

The old cliché, "a picture is worth a thousand words", well, I kind of believe in that old saying. Trouble is, I get carried away when I explain things. My goal is to be as thorough as possible in presenting a picture of what the situation is so that others get it as clear as possible prior to them diving into the same task. Some of the boys I camp with were a bit perplexed on why a coach like ours, only 9 years old, with what appears to be (at least in the anti-freeze condition) a flawless cooling system, how it could have developed such a corroded radiator corner and thus, the leak.

To tell the truth here, I too am a bit at odds with why it did it. Never the less, it did it, and it had to be fixed. I will tell you this, if in the near future, any of your radiators develope a leak, don't "dilly-dally" on getting it fixed. Get in there as soon as you see/define the leak and hopefully you'll get to keep your radiator. While I still managed to save quite a few bucks on a replacement radiator, almost $1,000.00, it still cost me just over $1,200.00 for the copper/brass replacement. The factory one is $1,841.40 from Freightliner and that does not include tax and shipping.

Here's a bit more. Since some of the infancy of our coach was spent in the back east, we've got some rust on all the hose clamps etc, of the radiator/heater hose/by pass hoses/"Motor Aid hoses" and more, so, I had to litterally break those hose clamps off to remove them. No biggie.

After it was all said and done, getting the radiator out was not all that hard. Anyone can "undo" a zillion bolts/screws etc. but, it's getting them back in and tight, in all those tight situations, that's the serious problem of the re-install. No wonder local Freightliner service centers get so much for the R&R of the radiator and inter cooler.
Scott

[Deucenut]

So have you got it all put back together? Sounds like a really tough task. How long did it take to reinstall?

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Deucenut

So have you got it all put back together? Sounds like a really tough task. How long did it take to reinstall?

Deucenut,
Yes I did get it all back together. In fact, we just did a 700 mile trip on it after the re-install. We ran from here, the San Diego area to, Quartzsite for a few days then, on to Lake Havsu City for a couple of days. It cooled the engine just as it did before but, the average temperature we encountered for driving was around 55-60 degrees so, it was not hot out for it.

Yes, putting it back in was a shear pain in the a$$. The side shroud/radiator/inter-cooler bolts definitely some of the hardest to install/get to/tighten/wrench on/ that I've ever had to goof with. Getting to the hoses/hose clamps etc. is also on the p.i.t.a. list. All in all, from the start of the re-install to the point of start up, about 5 hours, and that included pressing in new bearings on the idler and tensioner pulleys too. That was the easy part.

This project is not for the faint hearted. First off, as stated earlier, the air heads really didn't provide for access to the pet cock in the side of the radiator so, draining the system took for ever. That is untill I installed my own pet cock in the cross over tube. I goofed up a poked a hole in the lower radiator hose, about an inch in from the end and, it seeped a bit when I had it all back together. Well, knowing we were going on this Quartzsite trip, I didn't want to worry about a seeping hose problem so, I used my new pet cock and that thing completely drained the radiator in about 10-15 minutes, way better than stock. I then removed that lower radiator hose and trimmed about 1.25" off the end and re-installed it. No more leaks/seeping.

If anyone is thinking of doing this project in the near future, I'd be glad to assist from this end with all the "hidden" bolts/screws etc.
Scott

[Billontheedg]

Scott,


I just bought a 99 Ultimate Advantage at an auction that I was told was a theft recovery that had been rear ended. The interior is immaculate, but as I am going over it I realize it is missing a couple of other things, like the alternator, air conditioning compressor, a fitting on the air compressor and starter for the generator. I am new to the site and can already see what a tremendous resource it and members like you are going to be. I am up for the challenge and look forward to reading your other posts. My next project is to pull the leaking radiator and see if I can get it repaired.

Thank for sharing your experiences!
Bill