Coach Heater

Thudman · 08-14-2008, 02:33 AM

My Coach Htr (under the fwd floor register) is binding (the fan). If I try to start the htr with the switch in the LOW position, the fan binds up & will not move. But in the HIGH mode, the fan comes On, after a groan or two. I'd like to investigate, but do not know how to access the fan assy. Would appreciate any recommendations. I'm guessing the HIGH mode eventually will bind up also.

Thudman

Thudman · 08-14-2008, 02:33 AM

My Coach Htr (under the fwd floor register) is binding (the fan). If I try to start the htr with the switch in the LOW position, the fan binds up & will not move. But in the HIGH mode, the fan comes On, after a groan or two. I'd like to investigate, but do not know how to access the fan assy. Would appreciate any recommendations. I'm guessing the HIGH mode eventually will bind up also.

Thudman

Pubtym · 08-14-2008, 03:21 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Thudman:
My Coach Htr (under the fwd floor register) is binding (the fan). If I try to start the htr with the switch in the LOW position, the fan binds up & will not move. But in the HIGH mode, the fan comes On, after a groan or two. I'd like to investigate, but do not know how to access the fan assy. Would appreciate any recommendations. I'm guessing the HIGH mode eventually will bind up also.

Thudman </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Possible loose allen screw holding squirrel fan assembly on shaft...I believe you'll have to pull complete heater unit to access fan squirrel assembly....if you cannot determine which small access panel to remove to access the fan assembly.

Moder2 · 08-14-2008, 08:01 AM

Thudman,

You should see a rectangular access panel that covers your furnace from the outside. This panel may be in a bay, I am not overly familiar with your unit or floor plan, either way you should see the exhaust vents (small vertical rectangle with two small circular holes in it). This vent will be on the right side (as you look at it) of the major access panel. Mine is inside a bay door, with cut out access for the vents, but I have seen Winnie with the standard white suburban access panel on the side.

You need to remove all the visable screws, including the screws for the vents. The vent will slide out, of course winnie used way too much sealant, and it will be a PITA. Same for the big access panel, expect lots of sealant, and be careful not to bend it as you work it off.

When off, you will see the innards of the furnace, but to really do any work, you must completely remove the furnace. Most Winnies this is pretty easy as it backs up to a "Plenum" and all you really need to do is disconnect the gas line (make sure to shut it off), disconnect the electrical connection, and remove a couple screws in the front floor.

The unit should slide right out.

If it doesn't you may have to access the back side of it to remove any fixed ductwork.

Once you have it out, the inside unit will slide out of the outside case, granting you easy access to most of the components. The blower is right up front.

Hope that helps.

John

Thudman · 08-14-2008, 08:58 AM

Sorry I was not clear; the heater fan I refer to is the Motor Aid heater, just aft of the engine doghouse. Not the LP furnace.

Thudman

N8XV · 08-14-2008, 10:07 AM

If it's like ours you have to pull the water heater to get to it. And after you replace it with a new one it will do the same thing in about 3 years. The easy way to semi fix it is as follows. If you have the narrow 2" register up front as ours did cut the opening out larger to get the next size up register in I think it was a 4". Now you have a register hole large enough to get your hand and arm in. Reach in and pull up the metal plate that's between the register and the fan. Spray some PB Blaster oil in the direction of the fan. Give it a good spraying. Let it sit a day or so, then turn the fan on high and let it run a few minutes. Switch to low and I think you'll find it now works ok. You many smell the PB Blaster for awhile but it soon goes away. With any luck you can go a couple years before it will need spraying again.

Sammie · 08-14-2008, 03:46 PM

Thudman check out this thread.
Heater

DancinCampers · 08-18-2008, 05:11 AM

Thudman, hope all is well.

Here is a link to my final fix, which appears to be holding up so far.

Fan Fix

DriVer · 08-18-2008, 05:30 AM

I just had mine replaced at the GNR. My coach heater is now back in commission.

I find that I use it early in the year and it comes in handy. I am also told one of the reasons why they fail is lack of use.

I have also heard where the squirrel cage shifts over time and the side of the wheel comes in contact with the frame.

I know when I look down through my floor register I have seen debris down there that I removed by pulling the register and using a crevice tool. I wasn't there to witness the R&R process however I know the device is accessed by removing the water heater and access in through the passenger side wheel well. I'm not sure if they had to pull the doghouse.

Fred B. · 08-18-2008, 06:46 PM

Thudman,
Don't know about 38G, but our 35U I can get to the motor aid fan through the 1st compartment. The first time I dribbled some 3 in 1 oil onto the bearing area's & that cured it for a couple of years, the last time I put plastic tubes down to the bearing area's & now drip some 3 in 1 oil in yearly, & that has done it. The darn things just rust up. (I had to get it moving by pushing on it before it would work)

Pubtym · 08-19-2008, 03:56 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Fred B.:
Thudman,
Don't know about 38G, but our 35U I can get to the motor aid fan through the 1st compartment. The first time I dribbled some 3 in 1 oil onto the bearing area's & that cured it for a couple of years, the last time I put plastic tubes down to the bearing area's & now drip some 3 in 1 oil in yearly, & that has done it. The darn things just rust up. (I had to get it moving by pushing on it before it would work) </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Fred,

I have the 35U..please explain in detail how you accessed the area of the bearing and the points for lube.

Thanks

Fred B. · 08-19-2008, 04:21 PM

Pubtym,
Behind the water heater is the Motor Aid heat system box, it has a cover attached with 1/4" sheet metal screws. I removed the screws (some are hard to get at) pull back on the cover & the squirel cage fan is exposed. The first time I dribbled the oil on the near side & use some plastic tubing to reach the area on the far side. The fan will be bound up & you will need to push on it to free it up. After freeing & oiling I used a jumper on top of the fuse to start the fan moving. 3 in 1 oil seems to work best. To start it on low speed I used a jumper over the fuse for the better part of the first trip out,(just to get the motor going, not permanent, as the starting draw was heavy enough to blow the fuse.)I just went out there now to check on the compartment (my memory is fading I guess) & started the fan on low & it's just as good as new & has been for some time. When starting it on high it worked just fine on that first trip, low was a problem, until the later half of the trip when it freed up. It's a tight fit to squeeze in there as I'm 6'2" & 225#s, but it's doable.