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Old 08-09-2021, 11:53 AM   #1
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
Bearing Buddies and Grease Zerks....

...might not be such a good 'buddy' to you after all (smile)....

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I was picking up roof cleaning supplies at my local dealership, and mentioned that last week I did the 'grease nasty' and took care of my two axle bearing repack. He said, "you did? Here let me show you something...".

He led me over to a shop bench that had a brake drum backing plate and shoes, covered in black and dirty axle grease.

He said that a customer complained of little to no braking, and a smell that could be noticed when attempting to brake. So, they pulled off his four drums, and found all badly contaminated with axle bearing grease. They then called him to advise what they found, and what they needed to do ($$$$'s) to give him back a brake system.

They also advised him to never again use the bearing zerk nipples and or install a Bearing Buddy on the axles.

The customer emphatically stated that he was aware not to use too much pressure on the grease gun, for to not compromise the back grease seal...but the mechanic stated also emphatically that no matter how LITTLE hand pump lever pressure you use, the old and solidified grease that does NOT come out the front bleed holes, will act like a 'punch' ram rod and will push out, and compromise the seals..with the result that was seen on this customer's T.T.

The bottom line, from the mechanic as advice to this customer, is to NEVER use grease zerk fittings and/or 3rP Bearing Buddy set ups. You must always (for the best and controlled) outcome, 'get your hands dirty' and manually disassemble, wash the bearing sets, clean them, dry them, apply and work in grease (if they are in a good state) and then adding some grease to the wells, reinstall with a new grease seal. Doing that, will avoid grease compromised and contaminated brake chambers.

I have always taken a few hours to hand service my bearings, and I only have to use a can of brake dust cleaner in the brake chambers, and then put all back together again for another 10,000 miles.

I just thought to post, as to make readers aware of what could happen with using a grease (in place) zerk fitting (nipple) or Bearing Buddy set up on your M.H. or T.T. Boat trailers need them to drive out the water as soon as one gets home....but that is only because of the tires and axles get submerged at the boat ramp.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:07 PM   #2
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: California
Posts: 470
Bearing Buddy's are not used on boat trailers solely to save money and in most cases the trailer buyer has to pay to have the conversion work done. The problem with grease bearings is that when the wheels are still hot from driving to the boat ramp and the wheels are submerged in water the rapid cooling results in a vacuum and it is easy to have water sucked in past the seals. I always took a grease gun with marine grease and would top off the bearings before putting the trailer into the water. Not perfect but it helped.

Separate issue was having the tow vehicle's rear wheels and brakes going into the water. With salt water I was having to get the rear brakes repaired once a year as part of the cost of my diving.
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Old 08-13-2021, 09:18 PM   #3
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Originally Posted by Elkman View Post
Bearing Buddy's are not used on boat trailers solely to save money and in most cases the trailer buyer has to pay to have the conversion work done. The problem with grease bearings is that when the wheels are still hot from driving to the boat ramp and the wheels are submerged in water the rapid cooling results in a vacuum and it is easy to have water sucked in past the seals. I always took a grease gun with marine grease and would top off the bearings before putting the trailer into the water. Not perfect but it helped.

Separate issue was having the tow vehicle's rear wheels and brakes going into the water. With salt water I was having to get the rear brakes repaired once a year as part of the cost of my diving.
Good FYI, to know about vacuum created by contraction of the bearings and grease well. Something most, including myself would not think of! Good FYI!

Cheers, and when I see a lot of trailers, (any kind, T.T., boat, or utility) I always wonder if a bearing burned up, and put them to the shoulder. Bearing maintenance and clean/inspect/repack is like religion to me. I don't want to be there joining them. The Borked and Destroyed Wheel Bearing Club is certainly---->not exclusive to join!
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Old 08-14-2021, 04:08 AM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Branson MO area
Posts: 687
Some good info there, but I guess I am on the other side of the issue. Last year two springs ago I thought it might be a good time to check the bearings on my tow dolly. Now the dolly 5 years old with many thousand miles on it. Every spring I would add two shots of grease to each zert. After a 2-3000 mile trip I would also add two shots per wheel.

Now my dolly has electric brakes so I have the same issues with seal breakage. When I pulled the bearings not only were they in great shape but the rear seal was also in great shape with no leakage. Thanks for your info but I plan on staying with my plan.

Good Luck safe travels
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Old 09-06-2021, 08:51 PM   #5
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 2,108
Dexter Axle recommends removing and inspecting the bearings and axle stubs annually or each 12,000 miles. This renders using the E-Z lube axle zerk fittings a moot issue.
Bearing Buddy caps are for boat trailers not travel trailers with brakes.
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