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Old 01-03-2016, 09:20 AM   #21
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We never travel at night! Only travel from about 9:30AM to about 4PM and look for a campsite (Never at Walmart).
The shaft will go all the way across under the Ram (Same holes that the shoulder bolts are in now)
Never have had a problem with steering pull, even with 45Mph cross winds. I repaired the engine hood 2 months ago with JB Weld and no problems since.
I have ordered 6Watt LED's for the ceiling lights. Ordered from China direct, 20 of them for 2.12 each. I just finished installing my 100Watt LED porch light, it lights up the whole yard. Next, I may put the same light in drivers side porch light
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:05 AM   #22
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We never travel at night! Only travel from about 9:30AM to about 4PM and look for a campsite (Never at Walmart).
The shaft will go all the way across under the Ram (Same holes that the shoulder bolts are in now)
Never have had a problem with steering pull, even with 45Mph cross winds. I repaired the engine hood 2 months ago with JB Weld and no problems since.
I have ordered 6Watt LED's for the ceiling lights. Ordered from China direct, 20 of them for 2.12 each. I just finished installing my 100Watt LED porch light, it lights up the whole yard. Next, I may put the same light in drivers side porch light
All sounds good. The LED's chosen I question. Keep us up to date as to how they hold up. I had a cheap set several years ago and within a few months the segments were all falling off.

When does this on the road adventure begin?
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:56 PM   #23
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I had to look it up

Here is the scoop on "Optima" batteries

(NYSE: JCI) and Gylling Optima Batteries AB today announced that Johnson Controls will acquire Gylling Optima. Gylling Optima, headquartered in Danderyd, Sweden, is a manufacturer of high performance lead-acid batteries based on its proprietary SpiralCell Technology (R), marketed worldwide under the OPTIMA brand name.Aug 29, 2000

Note the date, Johnson Controls has owned them since 8/29/2000

Regards
Lloyd
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:20 AM   #24
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Here is the scoop on "Optima" batteries

(NYSE: JCI) and Gylling Optima Batteries AB today announced that Johnson Controls will acquire Gylling Optima. Gylling Optima, headquartered in Danderyd, Sweden, is a manufacturer of high performance lead-acid batteries based on its proprietary SpiralCell Technology (R), marketed worldwide under the OPTIMA brand name.Aug 29, 2000

Note the date, Johnson Controls has owned them since 8/29/2000

Regards
Lloyd
And Daimler owns Freightliner and Chrysler. Your point being? Thanks for the info, Lloyd. It is going good with my morning coffee.

Rick Y
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Old 01-05-2016, 06:06 PM   #25
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Rick Y,
You're a little behind the times. Chrysler is now owned by Fiat.
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Old 01-06-2016, 03:31 PM   #26
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Rick Y,
You're a little behind the times. Chrysler is now owned by Fiat.
You can tell that I am really paying attention. No mater. French or German ownership, my point is that the land lord is not necessarily the cook in the kitchen.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:30 PM   #27
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I looked at our '11 40U rollers and I didn't see anything of note. When bringing the slides in, on both sides, the front set of rollers (nearer the front of the coach) rolled as expected, but both rear sets didn't roll at all. Slides all moved as expected.

Don't know that they ever worked any differently, but will look again when we move again.
We purchased a couple slide out supports rated for 10000 pounds and with a stack of wood under each were able to lift our power gear rails a little to inspect our rollers.


With the slide all the way out, it didn't seem that lifting from the end takes the weight completely off the rollers. Might try again with the slide in more where the leverage might lift the weight off the rollers better.

Anyway, I was able to rotate the rollers a little and it does seem that the rear rollers, the ones not rolling, were out of round, but not flat-spotted.

Slides still go in and out fine, but rear rollers don't turn.

Lazydays had sprayed the area pretty well with slide lube a year ago. I was surprised as I thought that the mechanism was not supposed to be lubricated. (Spraying the rollers and gears would just attract dirt and grime. Spraying the slide out seals I get but not the mechanism.)

As we don't know when this started, I can't really comment more. Anyway that's where we are, so we chose to lubricate the rollers more to see if that helps.

No change. If anything, I suspect the lube makes it easier for the rail to pass over the rollers without turning them. Dry rollers would have more fiction and might overcome the slight out of roundness of the rear rollers. The grit between the rollers and the support fight against the urge to roll.

Still pondering our next steps...
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:01 PM   #28
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We purchased a couple slide out supports rated for 10000 pounds and with a stack of wood under each were able to lift our power gear rails a little to inspect our rollers.


With the slide all the way out, it didn't seem that lifting from the end takes the weight completely off the rollers. Might try again with the slide in more where the leverage might lift the weight off the rollers better.

Anyway, I was able to rotate the rollers a little and it does seem that the rear rollers, the ones not rolling, were out of round, but not flat-spotted.

Slides still go in and out fine, but rear rollers don't turn.

Lazydays had sprayed the area pretty well with slide lube a year ago. I was surprised as I thought that the mechanism was not supposed to be lubricated. (Spraying the rollers and gears would just attract dirt and grime. Spraying the slide out seals I get but not the mechanism.)

As we don't know when this started, I can't really comment more. Anyway that's where we are, so we chose to lubricate the rollers more to see if that helps.

No change. If anything, I suspect the lube makes it easier for the rail to pass over the rollers without turning them. Dry rollers would have more fiction and might overcome the slight out of roundness of the rear rollers. The grit between the rollers and the support fight against the urge to roll.

Still pondering our next steps...
Jeffery, sorry to hear of your problem. On occasion I spray my rack and pinion gear systems with CRC Power Lube with PTFE. It dries clear and does not seem to attract dust or dirt. It drives out moisture and the Teflon (PTFE) lubricates and protects whatever it is on.

About the jacking. I use a small bottle jack and a 2x4 cut to the correct length and placed between the jack and the bottom of the arm. I did this to adjust the slides. The graphics were not lining up and the bottoms were not closing tight. In your case, you can only raise the slide up less than a 1/4 inch. The arm will top out when it comes in contact with the adjusting yoke.

I suggest that you give the rollers a good cleaning with WD-40 and work them till they spin freely. After the WD-40 is dry (assist with a blast of air) spray then with the CRC product. (Robot Check) Work the rollers again by hand. You should not feel any roughness when they turn. I am certain replacements are available and are not that difficult to replace. If you do so, You can use your screw jack as a safety. The side panel comes off by removing a few screws. Look through the right hand slot with a good light to get the location of the correct screws to remove.

Hope this info helps,

Rick Y
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:34 PM   #29
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I am making new rollers that go all the way across the ram with a relief cut out to clear the gear. The shaft it rides on will aalso go all the way across, eliminating the shoulder bolts that the current rollers ride on (and can loosen over time).
Iwasouth,

Did you ever make your new roller that goes all the way across?

If not are your replacement rollers (the ones you made) doing ok?

We are finally going to address our non turning rollers and replace them.

I have an email out to Power Gear for part numbers and am waiting a reply.

Jeffrey
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Old 09-28-2016, 03:57 AM   #30
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Iwasouth,

Did you ever make your new roller that goes all the way across?

If not are your replacement rollers (the ones you made) doing ok?

We are finally going to address our non turning rollers and replace them.

I have an email out to Power Gear for part numbers and am waiting a reply.

Jeffrey
Jeffery, I just had work done on the slide ram, under the frig, in July at the factory. The rollers don't turn, all according to the tech, or have the ram riding on them when fully extended, as is the case with some of the rams. The frig ram is riding on the rollers. The rollers do turn if you get the weight off them, The frig end has mettle and the others seem to be plastic.

I am leaving for a 1200 mile journey this morning. When I get settled I will check back in. I have many thoughts, formed by my bad experiences, about the setup and adjustments.

Happy trails,

Rick Y
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:06 PM   #31
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Finally got to the roller replacement task. We ordered the parts from Power Gear and they arrived quickly.

Tried to lift the slide-out, but really didn't see much lift. The wheels, did turn a little once the weight was reduced.

Replaced the non-turning rollers on the passenger side (small flat spot, but really not that bad) but once the weight was back on the wheels they only turn part of the time when the slide is going in or out.

Slides still goes in and out fine, but replacement didn't help.

Power Gear says no lubrication.
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:25 AM   #32
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Finally got to the roller replacement task. We ordered the parts from Power Gear and they arrived quickly.

Tried to lift the slide-out, but really didn't see much lift. The wheels, did turn a little once the weight was reduced.

Replaced the non-turning rollers on the passenger side (small flat spot, but really not that bad) but once the weight was back on the wheels they only turn part of the time when the slide is going in or out.

Slides still goes in and out fine, but replacement didn't help.

Power Gear says no lubrication.
Jeffery, this is strange. Is the mounting bolt shaft clean? As far as lube goes, the CRC power lube with PTFE gets dry and won't attract dust and dirt. That may be Power Gear's only major concern. I would nt hesitate to use it. As I have stated in the past, I use this CRC product on all of my slide racks and components.

Rick Y
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:25 AM   #33
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I replaced the roller, bolt and nut. It just seems to find it easier to slide over the roller than to turn it.
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:04 AM   #34
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I replaced the roller, bolt and nut. It just seems to find it easier to slide over the roller than to turn it.
I think I understand, Jeffery.

On our way to this year's GNR the bolts sheared off the rack arm that is under the refrigerator. I will skip the details about getting the slide back in and go to the Winnebago fix. Problems arose at the factory with the way they fixed the coach but I learned much about these slides.

Here is the summery: The two long bolts holding the rack rail carrier should be factory set. Often they are not. The bolts can be adjusted to allow contact with the rollers. Both bolts MUST be adjusted to carry the same amount of weight (to the same length). This adjustment determines how close the slide is from the ceiling and floor when it is closed. Each rail is to be adjusted to give a consistent distance from the ceiling at each end, enough room to not damage the ceiling when traveling but high enough to give about a 1/2" clearance between the shoe and the floor. The slide is built to tip up when it is closed against the outside wall.

Here is where things get a bit dicey. When the slide is closed the paint pattern may look way off. If the above factory setting was correct when the coach went to the shop the is should be correctable.

With the slide out, remove the slide rack end cover. The adjuster for the correct closed alignment is found here, behind the cover. Close the slide and adjust each of the rail end adjusters to give a good pattern match.

For each of the above adjustments, it is best to run the slide in and out a few times to see if it is holding stable. When you are satisfied with each put the end plated back on and call it a day.

If the closed adjustment can't be satisfied the coach probably when to the paint shop out of correct adjustment. You will need to find a compromise adjustment you can live with. Plan on taking most of the day to accomplish these adjustments. You will need a bottle jack and a 2x4 to take the weight off the rail you are adjusting when the slide is out and to assist with the closed adjustment.

All the above takes a bit of forethought and close observation to be done successfully.

Happy trails on this journey ,

Rick Y
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Old 12-17-2016, 06:27 PM   #35
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