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Old 06-18-2021, 06:59 PM   #1
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Winnie 2016 Tour Coleman AC Model

In AZ for first time in the summer. 118 degrees. Coleman AC's worked fine until this morning, when there was little flow and little cool. Ran just fans incase condensers frozen...didn't help. All 3 units checked out fine during routine service check a couple of weeks ago. Trying to find Coleman model number to get manual, without climbing on roof! Trying to troubleshoot on own because no mobile service rep will want to climb up on the roof in these temps. Can anyone point me to the Coleman model # or an online trouble shooting website? This is a Winnebago Tour 42QD (2016). Our first year with it and learning curve is straight up. And we're old....Thanks!
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Old 06-18-2021, 07:13 PM   #2
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Let's try to get the discussion going with a few questions as I'm not finding the model, etc that you ask about so some "thinking" may help?

Looks like you have three rooftop units? If that correct for what I see on the parts drawings? If that is correct, do they each have their own air ducts in the ceiling or do they all feed into one to run to different parts of the RV?

Reason for asking is this idea. If they are all separate ducts and not connected in some way other than maybe the thermostat, it would seem highly unlikely that all three units would fail in the same way at the same time!

But if they are using a combined airflow duct, what are the odds of that ducts intakes being stopped up/ restricted to cut off the cooling?

The next most likely cause might be the worst as the AC may simply not be able to handle the extreme heat and that is a hard one to solve short of driving to the mountains!
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Old 06-18-2021, 07:16 PM   #3
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The owner's briefcase usually has a single sheet with all the major components listed and their model numbers and even serial numbers.

Look for that.

Here's what mine looks like:
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Old 06-19-2021, 06:35 AM   #4
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Thank you. Not sure about ducting. I am beginning to think it was user error, although we've been here for 10 months without problems. But I finally got it going last night, however it had a lot of cooling to do. Living room was 104 degrees when I finally got cool air. I believe, I had the thermostat set incorrectly. We will see today as it will be a 116 degree day. Normally not here in summer, but had to stay for my husband's health issues. Fingers crossed. And again, thanks for your help. If we continue to have difficulties, I will follow up on ducting.
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Old 06-19-2021, 06:38 AM   #5
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Thank you for showing info sheet. We got very little prior info when we purchased (from a dealer). In fact, we had no service records, so have had to start from scratch. The sheet you posted is not in our Info Pack. Really, very little is. I will try to find one on line...Thanks again for responding.
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Old 06-19-2021, 07:02 AM   #6
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The RV came with a briefcase that contains many things but central among them is your Operator's Manual. You really need that. Are you sure it’s not someplace in the RV?

Here’s a link to a PDF version. It is something you should read and reread and then refer to it as necessary. Class A motorhome’s are complex things.

https://www.winnebago.com/Admin/Publ...015/15Tour.pdf
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Old 06-19-2021, 07:15 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
Looks like you have three rooftop units? If that correct for what I see on the parts drawings? If that is correct, do they each have their own air ducts in the ceiling or do they all feed into one to run to different parts of the RV?
A note to Richard and the OP (original poster).

Class A Winnebagos with 2 or 3 A/C units and ducted air utilize one duct connecting all the units. It is constructed of styrofoam and is just under the luan roof structure.

If you turn on the most center A/C unit, or any other, it will send air to all ceiling outlets. Turning on more A/Cs just increases the volume of air conditioned air that’s being distributed.

This is handy at night. If the bedroom A/C is too loud for sleeping you can leave it off at night and still get plenty of cooled air in the bedroom from the other A/Cs.
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Old 06-19-2021, 07:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
A note to Richard and the OP (original poster).

Class A Winnebagos with 2 or 3 A/C units and ducted air utilize one duct connecting all the units. It is constructed of styrofoam and is just under the luan roof structure.

If you turn on the most center A/C unit, or any other, it will send air to all ceiling outlets. Turning on more A/Cs just increases the volume of air conditioned air that’s being distributed.

This is handy at night. If the bedroom A/C is too loud for sleeping you can leave it off at night and still get plenty of cooled air in the bedroom from the other A/Cs.
That was my assumption as well but thought worth checking. Another alternate problem might have been even harder to fix as a simple brownout situation may be a big issue in lots of places as time goes forward.
When it is only a small user error, that's much easier!

When I worked as a TV repair helper, that was a common item and the service charge drove people into fits but it sure was quick to simply plug the TV in again! But if the girl taking the order asked about it, folks tended to get mad anyway as it was somewhat embarrassing! They thought it robbery for two guys to come out and plug the TV in and charge $25.
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Old 06-19-2021, 12:44 PM   #9
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Thank you...yes, I have the manuals...all 3 volumes and have read, reread and reread again until the pages are worn and one has lost its cover. Also, have downloaded the Winnebago manual as well as individual appliances etc, like Aqua Hot. Rereading again and trying to connect the dots, led me to conclude it was user error. Better today and we know that the AC can only put out so much cool. Bedroom with the door closed is a refuge. Unfortunately, it doesn't cool down at night so it is almost a continuous high heat. As I mentioned, steep learning curve. Our Montana 5th wheel was much easier! But I love our Winnebago home. Thank you so much for your comments!
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Old 06-19-2021, 01:18 PM   #10
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I know what you mean about the manual reading as it seems like we get so much but then we feel like we find so little. It is not at all uncommon for folks who have been at this for years and have had multiple Winnebago motorhomes and suddenly we find they missed a point in the manual.
Is it possible we just don't want to learn as much as we used to or is the old rock getting too hard to absorb much?

I have been setting here trying to download a Garmin manual and print it out so I can look at it as we need it and it has taken a full hour and a half to get 24 pages printed. On top of that we have enough misprinted pages to build a large campfire!
We finally got it all printed down to pages 7-10 but found we had to ask for page 11 for it to print 7!

I do actually wonder if part of the mass shootings might be blamed on the present state of electronics!

But check this posting to see the chaos we can get! This poster has a motorhome which is more than fifteen years old and it appears the labels were wrong from day one!!!!
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...er-361513.html
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Old 06-19-2021, 05:35 PM   #11
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Susieh: IMO, if your ACs were running and then stopped. ...And then you could not get them started in 105+ weather, then this could be an indication you need to work with an AC tech to check:

1) AC power to your RV is between 108Vac to 132Vac... and btw, anytime you are on the fringe is still cause for concern.

* If you run your AC with low voltage you will damage your Start Circuit PTC-R and can could melt.

2) The tech should check all "RUN CAPACITORS" value to make sure they are are in spec.

* Running your compressors with a run capacitor out of spec causes expensive problems down the road. The capacitor is ~$20 or less.

3) The tech will also check all "START CAPACITORS" values to make sure they are are in spec. And they will inspect the WSX5/7 (PTCR) Motor Starter for visual problems.

* Note: PTCR are reliable, but they don't like working in 105+F weather.

So, in heat like you are describing, I'll bet the upgrade you need for each of your ACs are to replace the Start Capacitor and WSX5/7 (Motor Starter PTC-R) with a Supco SPP4E.

This is a 120V, 88-108uF Start Capacitor, with an electronic motor starter circuit, that is not subject to high temperature problems like your WSX5/7 PTCR (aka Motor Starter).

It helps to separate your AC problem:

1) Are you having troubles starting your AC in high heat? ...If so this could be low supply voltage in the park... because everyone is overloading the transformer and that means you are getting less then 108V.

Or, it could mean your compressor start circuit has issues. And one suggestion is the upgrade to the SPP4E.

2) Does your AC shutdown without reason.

* This is a bigger concern. Again, you should not be running your AC under 108V and the same goes for your other electrical equipment.

The only solution is to move to another RV park or buy a Hughes AutoFormer.

* Or is may mean your Run Capacitors are out of spec.

NOTE: Each compressor has it's own RUN and START circuits.

Good luck and please be careful in that heat!

The following schematics are for my older Coleman Mach Basement AC and you have 3 rooftop ACs. However, the principles are the same and your AC Tech will know what to do.
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Old 06-20-2021, 07:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Susieh: IMO, if your ACs were running and then stopped. ...And then you could not get them started in 105+ weather, then this could be an indication you need to work with an AC tech to check:

1) AC power to your RV is between 108Vac to 132Vac... and btw, anytime you are on the fringe is still cause for concern.

* If you run your AC with low voltage you will damage your Start Circuit PTC-R and can could melt.

2) The tech should check all "RUN CAPACITORS" value to make sure they are are in spec.

* Running your compressors with a run capacitor out of spec causes expensive problems down the road. The capacitor is ~$20 or less.

3) The tech will also check all "START CAPACITORS" values to make sure they are are in spec. And they will inspect the WSX5/7 (PTCR) Motor Starter for visual problems.

* Note: PTCR are reliable, but they don't like working in 105+F weather.

So, in heat like you are describing, I'll bet the upgrade you need for each of your ACs are to replace the Start Capacitor and WSX5/7 (Motor Starter PTC-R) with a Supco SPP4E.

This is a 120V, 88-108uF Start Capacitor, with an electronic motor starter circuit, that is not subject to high temperature problems like your WSX5/7 PTCR (aka Motor Starter).

It helps to separate your AC problem:

1) Are you having troubles starting your AC in high heat? ...If so this could be low supply voltage in the park... because everyone is overloading the transformer and that means you are getting less then 108V.

Or, it could mean your compressor start circuit has issues. And one suggestion is the upgrade to the SPP4E.

2) Does your AC shutdown without reason.

* This is a bigger concern. Again, you should not be running your AC under 108V and the same goes for your other electrical equipment.

The only solution is to move to another RV park or buy a Hughes AutoFormer.

* Or is may mean your Run Capacitors are out of spec.

NOTE: Each compressor has it's own RUN and START circuits.

Good luck and please be careful in that heat!

The following schematics are for my older Coleman Mach Basement AC and you have 3 rooftop ACs. However, the principles are the same and your AC Tech will know what to do.
Wow! Lots of information! Thank you so much. I think I've figured out the combination to the problem. Also, the extraordinary heat is just overwhelming and the AC's can only do what they can do. With everyone's help from this Forum, the manuals and experienced folks in the resort we're in...I have figured it out. Thank you!
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Old 06-23-2021, 05:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Susieh View Post
In AZ for first time in the summer. 118 degrees. Coleman AC's worked fine until this morning, when there was little flow and little cool. Ran just fans incase condensers frozen...didn't help. All 3 units checked out fine during routine service check a couple of weeks ago. Trying to find Coleman model number to get manual, without climbing on roof! Trying to troubleshoot on own because no mobile service rep will want to climb up on the roof in these temps. Can anyone point me to the Coleman model # or an online trouble shooting website? This is a Winnebago Tour 42QD (2016). Our first year with it and learning curve is straight up. And we're old....Thanks!
We had Colman/Mach crap out 6 months old ! Their units are JUNK and so is their replacement policy ! Cost ME $250.00 for them to tell me it was bad.......then it took them another 5 months to get a new one................and the KICKER................get ready...........here it come............CHARGED ME $ 375.00 to put it in ! And they WILL NOT REPLACE it AGAIN ! If it goes out I will be looking at some other brand !
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Old 06-23-2021, 06:11 PM   #14
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High heat

Susieh,
Living and camping in Arizona understand the high heat and I only have one rooftop AC for my coach. This is what I did to help cut the heat. Bought a couple of rolls of reflectix can be found at Home Depot/Lowe’s/Amazon/Camping World stores and cut it down with scissors for all my windows and rv door window. Help cut heat significantly by at least 10 degrees in the coach. I even cut squares and attached Velcro tape and peeled and stuck it on fans and bathroom shower dome. Also keep big piece and put it in front window under blackout curtain. Using a friction fit I cut the pieces a little bigger than the window. Installed and pulled shades down to help hold them in. Very inexpensive and diy friendly also put a couple of portable fans on stands to circulate the air in the coach. I just remove the reflectix before I head out of the park on my next road trip and store rolled up until next park and reinstall. Used 48” x 10 ft rolls needed 2 for the job.
Angela
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Old 06-26-2021, 04:59 PM   #15
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Extreme Heat Options For Basement AC Owners

PLAN A TIP: If you have a basement AC, I would get a sprinkler and let it operate just outside of the basement AC intake.

This will cool the air passing though the condenser and that should add other -3 to -5F drop in indoor AC temperature inside the RV. TBD

In Arizona it will be like having both a swamp cooler and a AC.

In Florida where the humidity is high, this may not work as well.

PLAN B: In your bedroom, next to the inside basement AC register, how about getting a accordion type clothes drying, scissor rack and then drape a really wet towel over it. Then the air getting sucked into the AC will be chilled; and as the towel dries out, just soak it again and again every hour.

Between these two tips, which I have never tried BTW, maybe you-all in Arizona will be more comfortable?

Please keep us posted if you try this! Thx.
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