Below I'm going to discuss a solution if your refrigerator is still cooling, but not very well; or if you see water leaking out the bottom and you know your ice maker water lines are not the problem.
This is what I did when my home Samsung French Door Frig started leaking water out the bottom... which as the freezer on the bottom!
Now I know your refrigerator model is different, but the principles are the same -- if your refrigerator has "drain tubes" like mine does.
There were actually several problems with my Samsung at home, but all of these problems were caused by a clogged water tube that is supposed to allow liquid water to flow to the bottom tray, where the heat of the compressor would evaporate it.
Note: The tube on the left was for the freezer and the 2 tubes on the right, in the picture blow, are the drain tubes for the refrigerator section. (Your frig may be different, but my guess is that you have a clogged drain tube, if you don't have a failed part.)
So... when water could not reach the tray it backed-up. And when an evaporator coil freezes over, to the the point frost starts covering the thermostat, then a consequence of that is that your compressor will get false readings and your compressor will not start.
What I'm saying is this: When your refrigerator goes into defrost mode, that implies a heating element is turned "on" and it is supposed to melt the frost and ice off your evaporator coils.
This heating element is nothing more than a hot piece of metal that touches a heating plat, which distributes the heat... and it's supposed to melt the frost and ice in a mostly air tight, moisture tight, confined area the evaporator coils are housed. And it works fine so long as the heating element melts the ice into liquid water.
So then the water flows down hill, thanks to gravity, and thru a plastic tube... if you don't have a problem. ...But, when the water gets backed-up and freezes and then affects your thermostat... your compressor will not turn on and off properly because the frozen section is fooling your compressor.
The solution is to flush your drain tubes, and each model has it's own peculiarities on where these drain tubes are located.
Note: You can have the same evaporator-thermostat problems with a refrigerator that has a freezer on top. That said, I recommend you google your refrigerator model number to see what other people are saying and how they fixed it.
* Sometimes all you need to do are these things:
* Move your food to the freezer. Then turn "off" the circuit breaker or pull the power cord for 2 hours hours minimum... 4 hours preferably and mop up the water that runs out of your evaporator area.
Note: If you have no food to worry about, I would let your refrigerator sit with open doors over night.
* Then google how to flush your refrigerator drain tubes using a 50/50 mixture of chlorine bleach and hot water.
* You can then plug your frig back in and see if all is normal again.
* If your freezer starts to act up again, in a few weeks, then you just need pull your frig out of its cubby and remove the back panel across the bottom.
Then just remove the drain tubes and clean. Reinstall the tubes and see if your fix holds. If not, and you have to do this repair again, then you need to buy new drain tubes.
Note: The issue is will the drain tube rubber nipple close to prevent moist air from getting inside the frig; and then open when liquid water wants to run out to the tray. The problem is that over time the rubber deforms and gets sticky... molds make it worse.
Hopefully, you don't have spend a dime to fix your frig with these conditions.
* Alternatively, you can replace the thermostat (going in from the front) if it doesn't pass it's ohm spec. And other times, you just need to relocate the thermostat to a different part of the evaporator chamber so excessive frost will not cover it and cause erroneous readings.
Good luck!
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