Update on Norcold "no co" error code

JWatkins · 01-13-2008, 09:34 AM

Well, good news on the Norcold issue. I read and re-read the manual that was suggested to me by John_Canfield from the BryantRV site. I went to work trying to get the thing unplugged. None of the wires are labeled and I was trying to make sure that I unplugged just the ones that I needed to. Well, long story short, I unplugged them all in order to get the circuit board cover off. That effort was compounded by the ice maker valve that was in the way. I loosened it and rotated it a bit to make it easier. Of course, I didn't have the correct tools for the job so it took longer than it should have! Smile

After removing everything, I needed to re-connect the 12v supply and ground. As I said, nothing was labeled. Fortunately I had snapped several pictures of the site with everything hooked up properly, so I was able to refer to that to replug correctly, since the board is labeled. Of course, you can't readily see that until after you have removed the cover! Oboy

I had made a shorting line from some 20 gauge awg that I had handy (the manual recommends 14 gauge) and it just fit into the #15 pin location. I shorted from that #15 pin to the board ground location for about 10 seconds and I heard a click as the manual suggested. I removed the shorting line and ran into the coach to turn off the fridge. I went back out and re-connected everything, without the board cover on, for testing. Again, I had to refer to my pics. I returned to the fridge and turned it on and switched it to LP. I heard the igniter trying and then the wonderful sound of the flame coming on. Party I let it run for a couple of hours to see if it was cooling properly and it was. Thank God!

Thanks to all and a special thanks to John for the link to the manual. Life is much better. You know that I was dreading the worst scenario! $$$ Smile

Joe

JWatkins · 01-13-2008, 09:34 AM

Well, good news on the Norcold issue. I read and re-read the manual that was suggested to me by John_Canfield from the BryantRV site. I went to work trying to get the thing unplugged. None of the wires are labeled and I was trying to make sure that I unplugged just the ones that I needed to. Well, long story short, I unplugged them all in order to get the circuit board cover off. That effort was compounded by the ice maker valve that was in the way. I loosened it and rotated it a bit to make it easier. Of course, I didn't have the correct tools for the job so it took longer than it should have! Smile

After removing everything, I needed to re-connect the 12v supply and ground. As I said, nothing was labeled. Fortunately I had snapped several pictures of the site with everything hooked up properly, so I was able to refer to that to replug correctly, since the board is labeled. Of course, you can't readily see that until after you have removed the cover! Oboy

I had made a shorting line from some 20 gauge awg that I had handy (the manual recommends 14 gauge) and it just fit into the #15 pin location. I shorted from that #15 pin to the board ground location for about 10 seconds and I heard a click as the manual suggested. I removed the shorting line and ran into the coach to turn off the fridge. I went back out and re-connected everything, without the board cover on, for testing. Again, I had to refer to my pics. I returned to the fridge and turned it on and switched it to LP. I heard the igniter trying and then the wonderful sound of the flame coming on. Party I let it run for a couple of hours to see if it was cooling properly and it was. Thank God!

Thanks to all and a special thanks to John for the link to the manual. Life is much better. You know that I was dreading the worst scenario! $$$ Smile

Joe

John_Canfield · 01-13-2008, 10:29 AM

Good going Joe! Taking a picture of the wiring before you begin is simply a fantastic idea - I'll have to remember that. I usually draw a little chart, or mark each wire but the picture would be faster.

If you haven't done it yet, keep a paper copy of your Norcold service manual in the coach.

DonGee · 01-13-2008, 01:48 PM

Have you determined why it went into no co? Mine has gone into it on several qccasions without reason that I could see. Had it checked at Forest City and they stated it had been wired wrong and the fan was not coming on.

JWatkins · 01-13-2008, 08:04 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John_Canfield:

Good going Joe! Taking a picture of the wiring before you begin is simply a fantastic idea - I'll have to remember that. I usually draw a little chart, or mark each wire but the picture would be faster.

If you haven't done it yet, keep a paper copy of your Norcold service manual in the coach. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yeah, John. I printed out the manual and have in my "running" papers collection. Thanks again!
Joe

JWatkins · 01-13-2008, 08:08 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DonGee:
Have you determined why it went into no co? Mine has gone into it on several qccasions without reason that I could see. Had it checked at Forest City and they stated it had been wired wrong and the fan was not coming on. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
DonGee, in my case it was my coach batteries that wouldn't hold a charge. The refrigerator would shut down after the voltage sank below some point. Unfortunately, not knowing why and the users manual not telling you much, I reset the Dometic and it happened again after I shut down my generator and the coach batteries lost charge again. The second time you are locked out until you ground out pin 15 (on my model). It appears that there are more than a few ways for this error to be triggered.
Joe

03 CORVETTE · 01-14-2008, 06:46 AM

mine used to get that reading when i parked in my sloping driveway and did not raise front end high to within 6 degrees of level jim k

JWatkins · 01-14-2008, 09:36 AM

I guess that the "normal" reasons for the "no co" error are not level, door open, flue blocked, something is obstructing the flame, etc. The low voltage is not mentioned in the manual at all.
Joe

kalynzoo · 01-14-2008, 06:22 PM

Having had the same problem, and still not sure what the problem was, off level, or low battery, and having to call and pay a service tech to reset the frig, it is amazing that Norcold has not been required by public pressure to simplify the reset process. Hope Winnebago is reading this.

JWatkins · 01-15-2008, 05:46 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by kalynzoo:
Having had the same problem, and still not sure what the problem was, off level, or low battery, and having to call and pay a service tech to reset the frig, it is amazing that Norcold has not been required by public pressure to simplify the reset process. Hope Winnebago is reading this. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The process is simple enough, but is complicated for the normal RV owner by a lack of documentation and wire markings. A "reset" switch would be an easily added item. Running a line from pin #15 (on my model) to a ground through a momentary switch would get it done. You must also disconnect the 12vdc positive and negative wires, the AC power cord, the solenoid gas valve wires and the spark/sense electrode assembly wires. That is just about everything that is plugged into the board. After you remove the board cover ( a step that would be eliminated by the mounting of the line and momentary switch0, you have to re-connect the 12 vdc wires. So with the momentary switch installed, you would basically pull all but the 12vdc wires off and hold the momentary down (about 10-15 seconds) until you hear a click, re-connect the rest of the wires and attempt to re-set the refrigerator. Instead of it being a 30 minute to 1 hour job (or more for your first time) and having to fuss with getting into the board, removing the cover (which can be a pain), etc you would pull a few wires and hit the button, reconnect and go. I think this is worth doing when you have the board exposed. Pin #15 is empty on the connector so it would be a simple job to install the wire.
Joe