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Old 01-29-2021, 10:04 AM   #1
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Seeking Additional Help On Dash HVAC Problem

In a nut shell my dash HVAC is dead no power anywhere,
I have a thread on iRV2 going regarding my HVAC problem. I am bringing it over here in hopes of some fresh eyes seeing it. Please go over to https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/das...-522115-2.html and see what I have done...

This is driving me crazy I have printed out the Blue Prints and I have a heck of a time reading them.....
Thanks LeeB
My coach is 2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V on a Workhorse W-22
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:21 PM   #2
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Not sure if you ruled this out, but maybe you need to replace your Control Board... the one with the 3-dials?

If you go this route you should verify the correct SCS part number used in your coach. ...And then let us know where you can still buy one or if you have to go to Vissone's or some other salvage yard.

I also attached some information I have kept in my RV Library for additional reference, but I can't say with any certainty how to help you fix your problem.

First, I do some more tests:

* If you are getting 12V on the Blue/Red wire (with the ignition key on) then I would think you are getting power to the Control Panel? ...Let's assume you are and move on to other tests.

* Maybe that "Pressure Switch" in the diagram below is preventing your system from coming on? Where is this pressure switch located? ...Which one is it? IDK.

...It's probably a binary switch (normally closed) which if "open" is preventing your panel from working. IDK. I would think your fan blower would still work, but your AC would not blow cold. ...But you are saying nothing works!

==> Take a normal fuse and by pass the switch and see what happens? This could be the binary switch next to the TxV (Expansion Valve) or you might have a similar switch by your compressor? All these switches are safety switches.

My RV is a diesel but we have similar dash AC systems, I think. In my case, I know I DO NOT have a binary switch near my compressor, but you might have one in your gas rig?

If the above suggestions do not work, I would remove the control panel, which should not be hard, and inspect it. ...Maybe clean the contacts and see if you works after that?

That's all I can suggest. Maybe someone else to help you/us better understand how power is routed thru this Control Board?
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Old 01-29-2021, 08:22 PM   #3
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Oh goodness you have given me lots of information...... The follow up will be a challenge that's for sure..


Thank you so much...... LeeB
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Old 01-30-2021, 12:19 AM   #4
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I really just mentioned 2 items:

* Find your binary switches and bypass them with a fuse to see if you can "wakeup" your AC controls.

* And if that does not work, then I would remove your rotary dials and inspect and clean the switch.. for starters.

Binary AC Switch replacement means you need to evacuate and then recharge your AC system. This is not hard unless you have never done it. Then there is the learning curve and even then you need some luck and art and science to get your AC working 100%.

Note: 3/4 of the battel is getting access to the switch. In my case where my diesel engine is in the back... all my binary AC switches are very visible. In your gas rig I'm not sure.

There are threads on this subject you can find in IRV2.com as well. (Just search for my user name and you will find them.)

If you do go the this level of repair... I highly recommend you replace your Receiver Dryer for $30 or less! ...And if your AC never worked that good, you might consider replacing your TXV Expansion Valve for $35 or less. Doing this will keep your AC working better and for another 10+ years without repair.

You can read more in the .pdf I attached. These are some notes I took when I was learning how to recharge my dash AC system.

Note: I highly recommend you get all the old PAC100 oil out of your AC system too! Then use the PAC100 with "ICE" additive. This ICE stuff acts like a catalyst to help "entropy" take place.

The picture below will offer you another view of the Binary AC Switch and my TXV, which is a Mercedes part if you can believe that?
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Old 01-30-2021, 04:08 AM   #5
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LeeB-

Parts list for your 2004 Adventurer 33V is here. Page 176 says the HVAC control panel is one of two part numbers:


Code:
KEY PART NUMBER    U/M DESCRIPTION                   VENDOR NO.
17  103930-49-702  EA  CONTROL PANEL - RECESSED FACE 032-0054
17  103930-49-703  EA  CONTROL PANEL - NON RECESSED  083-0223


You can buy both part numbers at ComfortAirgr.com, link here. I note that the 032-0054 shown there is not a rotary-dial panel.

If you have 12V to the vacuum/electrical switch connector on the panel, and the panel is not working, then the switch may have failed.

Except... Check the incoming ground wire first, at the six-pin connector. If it has failed, the panel should not work correctly, even if it's fine internally.

It's nice to find a source for the vacuum/electrical switch, per "imnprsd's" documentation. If that's the failed component, it's a lot less money than an entire control panel.


One final question: When you put on the dash illumination lights (using the headlight switch, in the "park" position), does the control panel illuminate?

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Old 01-30-2021, 10:30 AM   #6
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One final question: When you put on the dash illumination lights (using the headlight switch, in the "park" position), does the control panel illuminate?
YES IT DOES.......



Thank you all so much. I am thinking a lot of what your suggesting is above my pay grade and I will attempt to do what I can. I have been in contact with a really good friend who is a retired Fire Engine Mechanic and he has offered his help. He is pretty sure he can fix it especially if I eliminate what I can.

I will keep posting my progress on here in hopes of maybe helping someone else along the way........
Thanks again LeeB
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Old 01-31-2021, 12:15 AM   #7
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So your LED lights work!

Do any other controls work?

Note: A bad ground may allow some LEDs to light up, but may not allow your blower motor to start. So maybe your focus should be on the on the blower motor circuit?

Note: Sometimes it's easier to add a ground wire vs. finding a bad ground. Try that and see if you blower runs? If not then try using a +12V jumper to your blower motor to see if it runs. If not then you motor is not your focus.

After that, I think I would pull the Control Board and inspect for visual distress. You might even take it to a TV repair shop and maybe they can replace any bad components... if the Control Board backing can be removed? (The components should be cheap.) ...Ultimately you probably will have to buy a new one or get one from a wrecker.

You might also find a Ford or GM car uses this same Control Board? IDK. And thank you for keeping us posted on your progress/fix.
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Old 01-31-2021, 08:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
So your LED lights work!

Do any other controls work?

Note: A bad ground may allow some LEDs to light up, but may not allow your blower motor to start. So maybe your focus should be on the on the blower motor circuit?

Note: Sometimes it's easier to add a ground wire vs. finding a bad ground. Try that and see if you blower runs? If not then try using a +12V jumper to your blower motor to see if it runs. If not then you motor is not your focus.

After that, I think I would pull the Control Board and inspect for visual distress. You might even take it to a TV repair shop and maybe they can replace any bad components... if the Control Board backing can be removed? (The components should be cheap.) ...Ultimately you probably will have to buy a new one or get one from a wrecker.

You might also find a Ford or GM car uses this same Control Board? IDK. And thank you for keeping us posted on your progress/fix.

First off thanks for your help... If you go to iRV2 and look at this page https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/das...-522115-2.html you will see that l1v3fr33ord1 and I have been through quite a bit...... However the thoughts of a bad ground is interesting. My question is looking at the drawing you posted and looking at my switch I do not know which one of the 4 wires is the ground not to mention the wire colors on my switch are different. (Mine are purple, orange, green, and white with a red strip.

Anyway we finely got a break in the weather and I was doing some close looking around and I found (I had forgot about and it was this way before when the controls worked) a green vacuum line that was wasted and broke into half. (I have to fix that also so MAX A/C works) when I get this other problem fixed.

You asked if any of the controls work? and I my answer to that is NO.. As far as removing the control panel I was looking at that it looks like I have to figure out how to remove the plastic cover over all the instruments to get to the screws to remove the A/C control panel....
I'll do some more searching later today... Thanks again to you and
l1v3fr33ord1
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Old 01-31-2021, 03:40 PM   #9
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Hmmm OK I did some testing on the fan speed switch (WITH THE KEY ON).. First notice the Alligator Clip it is on a HOT wire... Next looking at the Test Light while touching the Green, Red, White w/Red stripe the light is BRIGHT. Now moving to the Orange w/Black Stripe the test light is DULL but it turns on a Fan . (Just guessing the Fan is on High)....With the fan running there is no control over speed however the Temperature Switch works controlling just air or air with heat. (Yes I was running the engine) Also the Selector Switch works controlling all the way from Defroster to Max Air.
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Old 01-31-2021, 05:24 PM   #10
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Okay...

You are saying your blower will run on "high" when you apply 12V. If it's not running on "high" you may have a short to ground in the switch

I think the Control Board varies the voltage for other speeds.

Please confirm you know your Dash-AC was working properly before you lost power to the fan motor?

Have you tried starting your engine and keep the fan running on MAX/High? Do you get cold air out your vents?

Note: If the OAT is not above 75F then it is very hard to know if your AC system is working.

Those Binary/Safety switches are there to disconnect the clutch to your compressor. I.e., your Dash-AC is a mechanical system and can only be turned "off". So if you force it to run, by using a fuse to bypass your binary/safety switch... and you can create a "work around" to bypass one of those three control board switches, you should be able to get your AC working... if you know it was working before you suspected your control board is bad.

Note: The purpose of the fan is to blow air over the evaporator so it does not freeze-over and to provide chilled air though the vents. So it is okay to run your system with or without the blower for 5-10 minutes or so... to 1) Verify your AC will blow cold; and 2) to verify your control board is bad.

==> Then verify your problem is with +12V power at the first switch. Cuz it may not be your blower motor dial if you can't get 12V to it. ...I'm suggesting you use a jumper (with fuse) from a known +12V source to the various 12V wires that go to your control board or to components inside the control board if you can take it apart. Just avoid the known grounds and you will be okay. And once you find the right node to add a 12V jumper you maybe able to figure out the "work around" yourself.

...Or take it to an electronics shop and let them diagnose those internal switches.

I would guess it would cost $50-$80 to repair the control board if it can be repaired?

Or maybe you can find a RV wrecker or get a 2nd source to a car AC system and find a much better price? Personally, I would not be afraid of buying a used control board.

Does your Control Board has a part number on the back? If so, maybe other people can help you find a car/auto second source. I know SCS did business with car manufactures in the 90's so somewhere there should be a cheap control board you can get your hands on... if the control board is your problem?

Good luck.
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Old 01-31-2021, 08:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Okay...

You are saying your blower will run on "high" when you apply 12V. If it's not running on "high" you may have a short to ground in the switch
It was hard to tell, All I know is the fan didn't run with any of the wires I touched until I got to the Orange w/Black stripe. (Now remember the test light actually dulled) but when I touched the others the test light lit up. I was actually looking for a ground wire at the time, not realizing I was using the test light as a jumper.
I think the Control Board varies the voltage for other speeds.

Please confirm you know your Dash-AC was working properly before you lost power to the fan motor? Yes it was.

Have you tried starting your engine and keep the fan running on MAX/High? Do you get cold air out your vents? I had the engine running and it seemed to me that the air was getting cold. I am in California and the Temp was in the mid 60's. Tomorrow we are expecting rain but the rest of the week should be warmer so I'll get a better reading....

Note: If the OAT is not above 75F then it is very hard to know if your AC system is working.

Those Binary/Safety switches are there to disconnect the clutch to your compressor. I.e., your Dash-AC is a mechanical system and can only be turned "off". So if you force it to run, by using a fuse to bypass your binary/safety switch... and you can create a "work around" to bypass one of those three control board switches, you should be able to get your AC working... if you know it was working before you suspected your control board is bad. To be honest I have no clue where I would search for the Binary/Safety switches would be.. I will make up a jumper with a fuse I can use for more checking. Like I said I had no idea I was using the test light as a jumper....

Note: The purpose of the fan is to blow air over the evaporator so it does not freeze-over and to provide chilled air though the vents. So it is okay to run your system with or without the blower for 5-10 minutes or so... to 1) Verify your AC will blow cold; and 2) to verify your control board is bad. Got ya.

==> Then verify your problem is with +12V power at the first switch. Cuz it may not be your blower motor dial if you can't get 12V to it. ...I'm suggesting you use a jumper (with fuse) from a known +12V source to the various 12V wires that go to your control board or to components inside the control board if you can take it apart. Just avoid the known grounds and you will be okay. And once you find the right node to add a 12V jumper you maybe able to figure out the "work around" yourself. I plan on doing just that... Should I hit a ground it will blow the fuse (I hope).



...Or take it to an electronics shop and let them diagnose those internal switches.

I would guess it would cost $50-$80 to repair the control board if it can be repaired?

Or maybe you can find a RV wrecker or get a 2nd source to a car AC system and find a much better price? Personally, I would not be afraid of buying a used control board.


Does your Control Board has a part number on the back? If so, maybe other people can help you find a car/auto second source. I know SCS did business with car manufactures in the 90's so somewhere there should be a cheap control board you can get your hands on... if the control board is your problem? I have no idea if there is a part nunber on the back as of now I have not taken it out.
What I can and will do is find out to see where the control board came from car/auto source. I would like to find out what Headlights they used I know they came from a Chevrolet Caprice just know sure what year.


Good luck.

Thanks so much LeeB
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Old 01-31-2021, 09:08 PM   #12
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I asked: You are saying your blower will run on "high" when you apply 12V. If it's not running on "high" you may have a short to ground in the switch

Answer: You said, "It was hard to tell, All I know is the fan didn't run with any of the wires I touched until I got to the Orange w/Black stripe. (Now remember the test light actually dulled) but when I touched the others the test light lit up. I was actually looking for a ground wire at the time, not realizing I was using the test light as a jumper."

Well, if you take a look at a basic relay you will see there is a coil that actuates an electro magnet plate. And the coil has +12V on pin 86 (aka low current trigger switch); and on the other side of the coil, pin 85 is connected to ground.

Note: the coil can also be wired with Pin 85 being positive and 86 being negative. It does not care. ...And when you "energize" the coil it connects the high-current side of the relay, which is to say Pin 87 is connected to pin 30.

So if you went probing with your Voltage Probe-Checker connected to ground....

* The "bright" light was 12V

* The "dim probe light" is you touching the ground side of the relay.

* And if you found your blower motor started working, when you probed that wire with the dim light on the probe, then I would say you completed the coil circuit to ground... and you found your problem: I.e. the relay in your control board is not making contact to ground.

So find that wire again...

Verify it is a ground wire....

And connect a ground wire to it.

* Maybe your circuit board burned a trace to ground?

* If this does not work, there is no harm adding more grounds.

* Then you can try probing with +12V to build a "work around circuit" so you are effectively connecting pin 30 in the relay to 87... and now you know longer have any motor control, but hopefully you have the ability to turn your AC blower motor MAX-on or just "off". TBD.

==> Your control board or wires will not be labeled with pin numbers but with the help of the schematic provided above, and if you "think" in terms of how a basic relay works, then you might get lucky and find your workaround.

* Note: Open circuits can be either positive or negative so you should not assume.

* Only a continuity check to ground (usually identified with a beep on your voltmeter) is a known good ground. ...So start verifying grounds before you start probing with +12V and a 1A fuse or 5A fuse and testing your luck.
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Old 02-01-2021, 04:25 PM   #13
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First off thanks for all your doing, wish I could buy you a Beer/Cup of Coffee. I read and re-read your post several times. Not sure I completely understand but I'm getting better (I hope).
I took a few more pictures that I will put on the bottom. I found out my Control Panel is from a 1998ish Ford F-150. Now as a F.Y.I. I went ahead and replaced the Relay Pin Out the one with 30, 86, 85, 87 and 87a. The only reason I did it was because I could and it was only $23.00... I also found the Control Panel on E-Bay for like $58 should we determine it is needed. Now what I did today..
Everything I did today was with the engine running. (Except the changing of the Relay).
I made a jumper with fuse thinking it's the safest way to test.I ran it from a 12v source to the Orange with a Black stripe and the fan started running. At this point I am not positive that the fan is running on HIGH. Now the Selector switch seems to work as far as going from Defroster to Dash to Floor etc. It is 70* here today and I do not think the A/C came on, I have a Temperature Probe that I put in the duct and it did not change at all.
What else I did was use my Meter to do a continuity test on the other 3 terminals going from a GREAT ground to each of the White/w Red Stripe, Green, and Red and everyone of them made continuity. I did not do the Orange/w Black Stripe fearing it was hot and not sure what would happen. You may notice the one photo the GREEN Vacuum is broken. This I believe is the reason the A/C does not work on MAX A/C I plan repairing it as soon as I get things running.
I feel at this point I need to apologize for my ignorance and thank you so much for going out of your way to help me......
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Old 02-01-2021, 04:46 PM   #14
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Glad to be of service. There are several of us who have nothing better to do with our time, sad as that may sound, but we do it, because someone else helped us out of a jam... and saved us a lot of time and money.

...And believe me we are also learning from you. So thank you for helping us get to the bottom of your HVAC control problems.

Right now I think you have identified a blower motor control board problem. However, or one of those binary switches are bad... meaning a Normally Closed (NC) switch gone bad leaves an "open circuit". (Solution: Jumper the two wires to close the circuit and see if that wakes up your Control Board?) See picture blow to jumper that switch next to your TXV.

If no joy, then keep probing and correlating/fishing...

This is what separates backyard mechanics from the pros. ...I'm just a backyard type myself; so if there is a pro out there, please do us all a favor and help us both out here!

Suggestions:

* That green vacuum line can be cut and then you can insert a hallow plastic connector. This probably actuates the blend door, which is normally shut. So with vacuum you divert the warm cabin air over the evaporator so you can cool it down, and then the blower pushes the air out the vents.

Your AC should still work... and by work you should be able to hear the clutch of the compressor engage and disengage. Note: If it "cycles" on/off in less than 15 seconds then one of those binary switches, or that control board is cutting power to the compressor clutch.

That clutch which is mechanical switch used to engage the turning belt so the motor can turn your compressor. And you know the compressor is running you will see the outside compressor plate spin. What you do not know is if the compressor is pumping 134A through the lines, but there are other telltale signs:

* If you have an "obstruction" in the lines, your binary switches are there to disengage the compressor clutch. And where you feel heat on one side of an obstruction, you will feel cold on the other. So touch your lines on both sides of that TXV and your Receiver Dryer. If these are obstructing or blocking your 134a you will feel the temperature difference... and then you know you need to replace this item.

Receiver Dryers clog all the time after 7+ years or so. And whenever you replace a binary switch or other HVAC component, it's a good idea to replace this Delco-Remy Part ($25-30).

* At 70F I don't know if it's warm enough for your control board to turn on your compressor, but if you jumper that binary switch next to your TXV-Expansion Valve you should get some response from your system. I would think. ...Then the thermostat may shut the power down.

* Another trick is to take a hot wash cloth and put it over that TXV copper curlicue. This will tell the TXV it's hotter outside. And now see if you get cold air out your dash in 2+ minutes.

That control board has several circuits and when any one of them is not working right it shuts the system down. That's why I don't know if you can MacGyver your way around it, but what do you have to lose?

As for probing around, with one end is connected to ground, and then you go probing for a hot wire, you know your found positive voltage when the probe light turns on. So don't worry about probing the orange-black stripe wire. If it's 12V the light will come on. And if the light does not go on, then you either have an open circuit or a good ground. You can confirm the "good ground" by using your multimeter to do a continuity check to ground, and if the meter "beeps" you know that pin is connected to ground. As for knowing what an open circuit-wire does, that's when you need a schematic or "ring detector" to trace the wire, which I will not go into here.

What do you think the orange-black stripe wire goes to?

Your old relay can also be tested. The coil pins are 85 connected to 86. So your multimeter should beep when you touch 85-86. If it doesn't then that coil inside the relay is bad, because it has an open circuit and you should replace the relay. Did you do this? ...And the relay you bough is the the one to replace the relay in the picture below... against the firewall?

Okay... but I'm think the bad relay is inside the control panel.

* Without knowing your circuit, for now just assume any anything "hot" is good.

It's when you come to a "no light" situation that you then need to do a ground continuity test to see if your multimeter beeps. If it does, then you know you have a good ground. If it doesn't this is when you have to decide what to do next, because the control board circuit is an unknown to us inside.

To the pros out there: How to you test the control board?
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Old 02-01-2021, 05:58 PM   #15
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I forgot to add: At 70F I don't know if it's warm enough for your control board to turn on your compressor, but if you jumper that binary switch next to your TXV-Expansion Valve you should get some response from your system. I would think?

Your TXV-Expansion valve also senses outside air temperature. That copper plate on top of the TXV acts like a thermostat (and some have a copper wire on top too). So as the OAT varies, the TXV meters how much 134A pass through it. ...Effectively, blocking the flow or retarding the system.

...And a bad TXV and either be partially stuck or completely closed. Same goes for your Receive Dryer.

Note: If your 2004 receiver dryer has never been replaced, you should do this at some point, and that point is whenever you need to replace an system part... or when you recharge your system. (See pictures below of my receiver dryer I replaced at 80,000 miles after 14 years of service.)

HOW TO GET AROUND SUB-75F Outside Air Temperatures

To address this, maybe you can trick the system into thinking it's hotter than 80F outside... by taking a hot wash cloth and putting it over the top of that TXV? This should fool the TXV into thinking it's hotter outside. And now see if you get cold air out your dash in 2+ minutes.

So after you do all you can to verify the mechanical part of your HVAC is working then you can go back to figuring a "work around" for your possible control board repairs.

Note: That control board has several circuits inside and when any one of them is not working right it can shut the whole system down. That's why I don't know if you can MacGyver your way around it, but what do you have to lose?
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Old 02-01-2021, 08:22 PM   #16
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Sorry about the duplicate entries above. I thought the system rejected some of my edits so I covered some subjects twice, by mistake. Oh well. It happens.

If you need to evacuate your lines that's another subject you read about in other threads on www.irv2.com . For now you are still in diagnostic mode.
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Old 02-02-2021, 06:29 AM   #17
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LeeB-

With all the wires and vacuum hoses in their proper place, and with the engine running, will the blower speed control work only on the high speed setting (and not in the other three speeds)? If that is the case, then the blower speed-control resistor pack has failed.

That failure is consistent with your tests.
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Old 02-02-2021, 02:23 PM   #18
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F.Y.I. Today there will be no working on my HVAC. It is raining here in the Central Valley of California and Mama has domestic duties I need to address. How ever I do have some questions and observations. I am also going to try and figure out how to add text to photos. Thanks again so much



Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post

Right now I think you have identified a blower motor control board problem. However, or one of those binary switches are bad... meaning a Normally Closed (NC) switch gone bad leaves an "open circuit". (Solution: Jumper the two wires to close the circuit and see if that wakes up your Control Board?) See picture blow to jumper that switch next to your TXV.
Is there more than 1 Binary Switch? (I googled Binary Switch and found out what they do, they protect High and Low pressures). When you say Jumper the two wires do you want me to pull the existing wires and use one wire to jump the two terminals or the wires? And leave the jumper on while trying to get the A/C on, using 12v to the Orange/W black stripe to turn on the blower and selecting A/C


If no joy, then keep probing and correlating/fishing...
Ha ha ha You sound like my wife......


This is what separates backyard mechanics from the pros. ...I'm just a backyard type myself; so if there is a pro out there, please do us all a favor and help us both out here!
At least you made it to the backyard. I'm stuck in my recliner
Suggestions:

* That green vacuum line can be cut and then you can insert a hallow plastic connector. This probably actuates the blend door, which is normally shut. So with vacuum you divert the warm cabin air over the evaporator so you can cool it down, and then the blower pushes the air out the vents.Thanks I was thinking I had to replace the whole and I was wondering how I was going to do that. I have a local NAPA that is great at MacGyver and/or Mickey Mouseing. I bought some Windshield sprayer hose from them. They had to dig but they found it.

Your AC should still work... and by work you should be able to hear the clutch of the compressor engage and disengage. Note: If it "cycles" on/off in less than 15 seconds then one of those binary switches, or that control board is cutting power to the compressor clutch. I have a Workhorse and can not see the front of the engine to see if the clutch engages. plus I wear hearing aids so that may be a challenge.

That clutch which is mechanical switch used to engage the turning belt so the motor can turn your compressor. And you know the compressor is running you will see the outside compressor plate spin. What you do not know is if the compressor is pumping 134A through the lines, but there are other telltale signs: I understand this.

* If you have an "obstruction" in the lines, your binary switches are there to disengage the compressor clutch. And where you feel heat on one side of an obstruction, you will feel cold on the other. So touch your lines on both sides of that TXV and your Receiver Dryer. If these are obstructing or blocking your 134a you will feel the temperature difference... and then you know you need to replace this item. I am so glad you labeled the parts in that picture cause I had no idea what a TXV is (I do now) and there you go again with Binary SWITCHES as in two I only see the one? Also I have no idea if or where the Receiver Dryer is.

Receiver Dryers clog all the time after 7+ years or so. And whenever you replace a binary switch or other HVAC component, it's a good idea to replace this Delco-Remy Part ($25-30).Haha Looks like I need to do some searching. (I saw the picture of yours)... Once I get going and should I need to evacuate the system I will replace what components I can.

* At 70F I don't know if it's warm enough for your control board to turn on your compressor, but if you jumper that binary switch next to your TXV-Expansion Valve you should get some response from your system. I would think. ...Then the thermostat may shut the power down.

* Another trick is to take a hot wash cloth and put it over that TXV copper curlicue. This will tell the TXV it's hotter outside. And now see if you get cold air out your dash in 2+ minutes. Now that I know what the TXV is I'll try that.....

That control board has several circuits and when any one of them is not working right it shuts the system down. That's why I don't know if you can MacGyver your way around it, but what do you have to lose? Nothing at all

As for probing around, with one end is connected to ground, and then you go probing for a hot wire, you know your found positive voltage when the probe light turns on. So don't worry about probing the orange-black stripe wire. If it's 12V the light will come on. And if the light does not go on, then you either have an open circuit or a good ground. You can confirm the "good ground" by using your multimeter to do a continuity check to ground, and if the meter "beeps" you know that pin is connected to ground. As for knowing what an open circuit-wire does, that's when you need a schematic or "ring detector" to trace the wire, which I will not go into here.I actually the wiring diagrams/schematics but reading them is a challenge I have not deciphered yet

What do you think the orange-black stripe wire goes to? Good Question everything is so well wrapped up in electrical tape I tried to follow it once but then saw something shinny and got distracted.

Your old relay can also be tested. The coil pins are 85 connected to 86. So your multimeter should beep when you touch 85-86. If it doesn't then that coil inside the relay is bad, because it has an open circuit and you should replace the relay. Did you do this? ...And the relay you bough is the the one to replace the relay in the picture below... against the firewall? Interesting I have the "Old" relay in front of me and I tested it and got NO beep. (double checking my meter and touching the leads together and I get a beep). I did replace the old one yesterday because I could. At that time I didn't know the old one was bad. Yes I did some probing after with the same results... hmmmmm this has me wondering now.




Okay... but I'm think the bad relay is inside the control panel. By Control Panel your talking about the three knobs thingy on my dash? I wonder if I should buy the one on e-bay... Cause as far as I can

* Without knowing your circuit, for now just assume any anything "hot" is good.

It's when you come to a "no light" situation that you then need to do a ground continuity test to see if your multimeter beeps. If it does, then you know you have a good ground. If it doesn't this is when you have to decide what to do next, because the control board circuit is an unknown to us inside.

To the pros out there: How to you test the control board?
Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
I forgot to add: At 70F I don't know if it's warm enough for your control board to turn on your compressor, but if you jumper that binary switch next to your TXV-Expansion Valve you should get some response from your system. I would think?

Your TXV-Expansion valve also senses outside air temperature. That copper plate on top of the TXV acts like a thermostat (and some have a copper wire on top too). So as the OAT varies, the TXV meters how much 134A pass through it. ...Effectively, blocking the flow or retarding the system.

...And a bad TXV and either be partially stuck or completely closed. Same goes for your Receive Dryer.

Note: If your 2004 receiver dryer has never been replaced, you should do this at some point, and that point is whenever you need to replace an system part... or when you recharge your system. (See pictures below of my receiver dryer I replaced at 80,000 miles after 14 years of service.) I seen yours and WOW..... Now I have to find mine. I hope to post a picture of the area to the far left under the hood

HOW TO GET AROUND SUB-75F Outside Air Temperatures

To address this, maybe you can trick the system into thinking it's hotter than 80F outside... by taking a hot wash cloth and putting it over the top of that TXV? This should fool the TXV into thinking it's hotter outside. And now see if you get cold air out your dash in 2+ minutes.I just may try this.

So after you do all you can to verify the mechanical part of your HVAC is working then you can go back to figuring a "work around" for your possible control board repairs.

Note: That control board has several circuits inside and when any one of them is not working right it can shut the whole system down. That's why I don't know if you can MacGyver your way around it, but what do you have to lose?
I think I am going to order that Control Panel I found on E-Bay. If nothing else It will be insurance

Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Sorry about the duplicate entries above. I thought the system rejected some of my edits so I covered some subjects twice, by mistake. Oh well. It happens.Ha ha Not a problem

If you need to evacuate your lines that's another subject you read about in other threads on www.irv2.com . For now you are still in diagnostic mode.
Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
LeeB-

With all the wires and vacuum hoses in their proper place, and with the engine running, will the blower speed control work only on the high speed setting (and not in the other three speeds)? If that is the case, then the blower speed-control resistor pack has failed.

That failure is consistent with your tests.
With everything in it's Place NOTHING WORKS......
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Old 02-02-2021, 03:46 PM   #19
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Stop The Presses..
HVAC Problem Solved.

I can't find one with a DUNCE CAP
I will post with pictures and explain in another post.
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Old 02-02-2021, 04:36 PM   #20
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imnprsd and l1v3fr33ord1 I LeeB owe both of you my utmost APOLOGY and my Bride (who was very cold on our last trip). First off to me this past week was not a waste of time because I learned a lot. That being said allow me to explain.
I was searching E-Bay looking for a Control Panel I could buy to replace the one I have. As I am looking I see several that look like mine but they were not exactly like mine. So I proceed out to the MH (on a cold and damp day I may add) I had planed to get a mirror and a flash light and look at the back of my Control Panel (because I can't get my big fat head in there to see it) to see if there are any numbers, anyway there's this RED plug in my way so I move it. As I am looking at the back of my Control Panel I notice where there should be something plugged into it. I now can see you rolling your eyes and saying Jezzzzz. In my defense there are several plugs that go no where. I guess Winnebago just uses a generic wiring harness and those plugs are for other Models of MH's... So I take this plug and plug it in to the slot in the back of my CP (CP= Control Panel tired of typing it) I close the dash (which had a broken tether)..and start the MH and turn on the CP and low and behold the fan works (all 3 settings) I start the MH and turn the CP to defrost and then to dash and then to floor and Waaaaaaaa Hoooooooo everything is working. I let the the MH warm up (cause it's cold and damp here remember) and after about 10 minutes it it THROWING out 120* Heat. So if you look at the pictures you'll see the RED plug on the right side of the first pictures and then you will see it plugged in.
I learned so much I could go out and place a HOT wash cloth on the TXV valve and trick the A/C to come on..... Plus I still need to fix the Green vacuum Line.
So again I am forever in your debt.... and we ever run into each on the road I'll buy you a 6 pack of or coffee...
Signed Humbly LeeB (Never did learn how to place text on a picture)
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