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Old 04-16-2020, 03:31 PM   #1
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Run 2 AC”s on 30 amps. Anybody tried this Soft Start for their AC?

Just curious is anybody has tried this unit? It’s supposed to allow one to run two AC units off of 30 amps...

https://www.softstartusa.com/rvlife/...e=CamperReport
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Old 04-16-2020, 04:23 PM   #2
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I think a number of folks have videos on YouTube about installing these. The only thing I've heard is they work pretty well but cost a lot.

My Winnebago has the Powerline Control System that loads and sheds loads depending on the amount of shore power available. As long as other heavy loads are not being used (charger, water heater, microwave) it does a good job of starting one and then after the compressor has started and the power requirement is reduced the PCS starts the second A/C unit in stages.

I've noticed it does a pretty good job of going back and forth to run one A/C on full and the other on Fan and then visa versa.

I don't know if the Intent has the same system or not.

My RV came with a 2000w inverter and it is also connected to the Powerline Control System. The two work together and the inverter can add amps to a 30amp shore connection.
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Old 04-16-2020, 05:00 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
I think a number of folks have videos on YouTube about installing these. The only thing I've heard is they work pretty well but cost a lot.

My Winnebago has the Powerline Control System that loads and sheds loads depending on the amount of shore power available. As long as other heavy loads are not being used (charger, water heater, microwave) it does a good job of starting one and then after the compressor has started and the power requirement is reduced the PCS starts the second A/C unit in stages.

I've noticed it does a pretty good job of going back and forth to run one A/C on full and the other on Fan and then visa versa.

I don't know if the Intent has the same system or not.

My RV came with a 2000w inverter and it is also connected to the Powerline Control System. The two work together and the inverter can add amps to a 30amp shore connection.
Interesting. I have a baby RV. Only one AC unit, and a 30amp shoreline connection.
So what you are saying is, you can run your 50amp rig on a 30amp post, and still run two A/C units?
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Old 04-16-2020, 05:12 PM   #4
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Interesting. I have a baby RV. Only one AC unit, and a 30amp shoreline connection.
So what you are saying is, you can run your 50amp rig on a 30amp post, and still run two A/C units?
Yes, most of the time. But as I said, the PCS system manages the whole thing. And, it's not like they both run all the time like when on 50amp. They take turns running one AC's compressor while keeping the fans going on one or the other.
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Old 04-17-2020, 12:44 PM   #5
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We routinely run 2 A/Cs on 30 amps by doing the following:
- Shut off the electric water heater
- Don't run the MW at the same time
- Run an extension cord to the post to run the frig

We also have a PCS which protects from overloads ...
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Old 04-17-2020, 08:56 PM   #6
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My Class A Adventurer with basement air doesn't have the option to alternate between different roof units but it usually pulls about 26 amps when running anyway.

I recently read this but haven't experienced it myself.
https://rvmiles.com/rv-parks-crackin...-30-amp-sites/
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Old 04-18-2020, 08:32 AM   #7
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My Class A Adventurer with basement air doesn't have the option to alternate between different roof units but it usually pulls about 26 amps when running anyway.

I recently read this but haven't experienced it myself.
https://rvmiles.com/rv-parks-crackin...-30-amp-sites/
That article says to use dielectric grease. Isn't that bad advice? That doesn't conduct electricity. I remember using it in the old days on distributor caps to prevent arcing between posts, and I think it's still used on spark plug caps to prevent arcing.
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Old 04-18-2020, 08:59 AM   #8
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My prior coach was a 2008 Sunova with 2 AC units and was a 30amp setup. It also had the Powerline from the factory. We ran 2 AC’s all the time, similar to others it could be a juggli g game with the H2O heater, microwave etc but the biggest trick was starting only 1 unit up, wait a minute or two and then fire up the 2nd and then managing from there. I think the only time we had any issues was when the coach was new to us and the queen kept tripping the pedastal at the breaker. I went in and I don’t think there was an electrical appliance not in use, all at the same time including a vacuum. We did a quick course in electrical management and it was fine after that.
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Old 04-18-2020, 10:46 AM   #9
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My prior coach was a 2008 Sunova with 2 AC units and was a 30amp setup.
Are you saying it was a 30-amp coach with 2-A/Cs or are you just saying when your 50-amp coach was camped at a 30-amp site? 'Cause I've never heard of a 30-amp coach with 2-A/Cs.
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Old 04-18-2020, 12:11 PM   #10
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Are you saying it was a 30-amp coach with 2-A/Cs or are you just saying when your 50-amp coach was camped at a 30-amp site? 'Cause I've never heard of a 30-amp coach with 2-A/Cs.
I have, I used to have one, 1996 Southwind. I presume that they are not all that uncommon.
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Old 04-18-2020, 03:47 PM   #11
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That article says to use dielectric grease. Isn't that bad advice? That doesn't conduct electricity. I remember using it in the old days on distributor caps to prevent arcing between posts, and I think it's still used on spark plug caps to prevent arcing.
Correct! A dielectric grease is an electrical insulator (it's silicone), and it does not promote an electrical connection but actually serves to prevent one. The purpose of the grease is to shield metal parts from corrosion - however, if you have strong metal to metal contact, use can still use it on the connectors. If you have a weak or not very strong metal to metal contact - then this grease will inhibit electric current.

The reason I posted the article was the news that some RV Parks aren't allowing Class A motorhomes with 50 amp service to hook up to 30 amp service poles. Probably because we carry adapters and I'm sure some guys are frying the park's breakers with heavy loads. I've never run into a park like that yet though. Usually if its that damn hot I don't want to be there anyway and I head to cooler area!

I have one of those adapters that have two plugs - one for the 30 amp plug and one for the 20 amp plug, that combine to make a 50 amp receptacle. It's a bad Idea and I will never use it. After I bought it (on clearance - cheap, now I know why!) so I looked into it. First of all they won't work on a 20 amp GFI receptacle (the GFI senses a fault) and second, you are only getting 20 amps on one leg and 30 amps on the other leg, instead of the full 50 amps on each leg. That sounds like expensive trouble to me! I can still cut it up and use the parts at least.
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Old 04-18-2020, 04:00 PM   #12
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Correct! A dielectric grease is an electrical insulator (it's silicone), and it does not promote an electrical connection but actually serves to prevent one. The purpose of the grease is to shield metal parts from corrosion - however, if you have strong metal to metal contact, use can still use it on the connectors. If you have a weak or not very strong metal to metal contact - then this grease will inhibit electric current.
What about just regular grease? Would that both protect and allow a good electrical connection?
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Old 04-18-2020, 04:04 PM   #13
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I have one of those adapters that have two plugs - one for the 30 amp plug and one for the 20 amp plug, that combine to make a 50 amp receptacle. It's a bad Idea and I will never use it. After I bought it (on clearance - cheap, now I know why!). I looked into it and first they won't work on a 20 amp GFI receptacle and second, you are only getting 20 amps on one leg and 30 amps on the other leg, instead of the full 50 amps on each leg. That sounds like expensive trouble to me!
Yes, I would agree. Seems like there's a lot of RV stuff that doesn't make sense. My pet example of that is the dogbone 50 to 30 plugs, because you have cords/devices downstream of a 50 amp breaker that can only handle 30 amps. Home Depot and others were falsely claiming such devices were UL rated.
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Old 04-18-2020, 04:14 PM   #14
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What about just regular grease? Would that both protect and allow a good electrical connection?
I looked into it and the "experts" say ideally you want a dry metal to metal contact. The dielectric grease is good to keep water off and out of the connections. Like I said before,if you have a good solid metal to metal connection, it won't be a problem. Any grease that promoted an electrical connection could have disastrous results if it was allowed to go to any ground (or you!) It would be doing the same thing as moisture then. You how grease is, its hard to keep it where you want it!
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Old 04-18-2020, 04:21 PM   #15
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If you really want to dive into the deep end of the pool, read this.

Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease

I read a lot of it but it will make your eyes tired quick!
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Old 04-18-2020, 04:27 PM   #16
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I looked into it and the "experts" say ideally you want a dry metal to metal contact. The dielectric grease is good to keep water off and out of the connections. !
That makes sense, but I'm having a hard time seeing any grease is necessary. That may be because I'm not that concerned about water being a big problem with these devices. They should be designed to work outside.

As to lubrication, outlets do wear out over time. In a house you may notice that with plugs pulling out too easily. But that's over hundreds or thousands of insertions/extractions. But when you're dealing with that many cycles I just think it would be difficult for lubrication to matter.

My solution for both the loose home outlet (until I replace it) and an RV outlet is to just bend the plug slightly to create a better connection. That's not as good as new, but it's typically better than as-is.
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Old 04-18-2020, 04:41 PM   #17
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Living in the dry climate of Arizona its not problem, but in the wet humid areas like Seattle its a good thing to use it if needed. Those big 50 amp plugs usually fit pretty tight and are somewhat protected, so unless they are plugged in an extended length of time I wouldn't worry about it either.
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Old 04-18-2020, 05:07 PM   #18
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That article says to use dielectric grease. Isn't that bad advice? That doesn't conduct electricity. I remember using it in the old days on distributor caps to prevent arcing between posts, and I think it's still used on spark plug caps to prevent arcing.
Dielectric grease is typically use for two dissimilar metals, such as aluminum and copper wires, where aluminum will expand and contract faster and can eventually create enough space between the wires to arc.

Spark plugs you want to arc, or they wouldn’t work.
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Old 04-19-2020, 06:31 AM   #19
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Are you saying it was a 30-amp coach with 2-A/Cs or are you just saying when your 50-amp coach was camped at a 30-amp site? 'Cause I've never heard of a 30-amp coach with 2-A/Cs.
It was a 30 amp coach with 2 A/C Units. Link to the brochure below, page 7 has the specs.

https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/08SunovaBrochure.pdf
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Old 04-19-2020, 07:57 AM   #20
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Spark plugs you want to arc, or they wouldn’t work.
I said caps, but meant the boot. The part that fits over the spark plug. The last thing you want is the spark to arc down the side of the spark plug rather than going down the middle of the plug to the gap.

Quote:
Dielectric grease is typically use for two dissimilar metals, such as aluminum and copper wires, where aluminum will expand and contract faster and can eventually create enough space between the wires to arc.
I think you're thinking of anti-oxidant material, like this.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Ben...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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