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Old 06-01-2014, 09:14 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobmac View Post

I had the same problem with the Samsung RF-197 in the S&B home. The drain below the fridge coils was freezing and the moisture draining into the fridge bottom and drawers. Turned out this is a known Samsung problem and the fix is a longer piece of thin aluminum that wraps around the heater coil and extends well over an inch into the drain tube. The part number was the same as the original but the new part ($4.) is about 2" longer and does the trick. As others have pointed out, wrapping copper wire around the heat coil above the drain and extending it down the drain should also fix the problem.
While this is simple to fix, there was a molded foam part in front of the coils that was frozen to the drain - you will likely need to allow the ice to melt before removing the foam part to avoid damaging it.
I had the same problem as bobmac did with his Samsung RF197.

Here's the thread with photos and explanation of my repair. No more problems since the "fix".

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/froze...97-148842.html

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:44 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBK394 View Post
Ordered the new drain from repairclinic.com. Put it in last Wednesday. Rick, there was only one duckbill drain. Getting the frige out was not a problem, but if anyone does this make sure you have a helper. In my case, I was lucky my helper had smaller arms than mine. We removed the L-brackets on each side at bottom. Once you do that, you need to remove the wood trim at the top. There is a piece of angle welded on each side at the top. There is a flange at the back of this angle iron that is screwed to the wall. That is where my friend's smaller arms paid off in removing these screws.

Before we pulled the fridge out, I took a sharpie and marked on the back panel the area that I could access from the outside of the rig. When we got the fridge out, removing the back panel, removing the old duckbill and drain channel, and installing the new p-trap drain took about 10 minutes. As I said in my previous post, I was uncomfortable with standing water left in the trap for winter storage. So, I cut the back panel into three pieces along the lines I made with sharpie. As luck would have it, the section that I marked for cutting out is exactly where the trap is. I then reattached all three pieces with the addition of two or three sheet metal screws. If I do feel the need to access this drain, I just need to open the access hole on outside of rig, remove the one section and there it is.

As to the condition of the duckbill that I removed, it was shot. It was gummy and sticky. Don't know from what. Maybe heat, maybe age, or both.
Well done and planned.

I was working on a door problem and wanted to move the frig out a bit. The "L" brackets on the floor were where the front wheels used to be and the brackets on the top from the hinges to the wall looked like too much of a bather for what I was doing so I did not finish the removal process.

It turns out that the factory did not line up the add-on catches on top of the frig very well and the left door is being pushed out of square. Next month I'll be in a better location to do a better fix for this problem.

As for the trim board reattachment: It had been taken of at some point before me and reattached with caulking. I have a pin nailler for hobby work and it works great on the coach trim. After some frustrating cleaning off of the the goop and removal of the old bent pins, I was able to do a clean attachment of the trim.

When I get to my son's home in the Seattle area I will be tackling many maintenance issues that require that third hand.

Thanks for the great info, Rusty. Good job. Well done.

Rick Y
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:04 AM   #23
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Took MH. to the dealer on thurs. Had the dealer pull the fridge out of the
cabinet, as the kitchen aid repair people are not allowed to. Warranty!!!!
Fridge. Rep. Put in a new ice maker, worked for about 36 hrs. And put the update
for the defrosting. They put in a P-Trap update. Well That didn't work either.ice is still forming on the bottom of the fridge.
Fridge rep is coming back on wed. Here at the park. Thinking about pulling fridge.
out myself.DW, is not really on board with this but doesn't want to sit at the dealer
al day either. Need to get this resolved as we are leaving N. Tx. for cooler climate.
Idaho, Mt. For the summer.
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:49 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppopc View Post
Took MH. to the dealer on thurs. Had the dealer pull the fridge out of the
cabinet, as the kitchen aid repair people are not allowed to. Warranty!!!!
Fridge. Rep. Put in a new ice maker, worked for about 36 hrs. And put the update
for the defrosting. They put in a P-Trap update. Well That didn't work either.ice is still forming on the bottom of the fridge.
Fridge rep is coming back on wed. Here at the park. Thinking about pulling fridge.
out myself.DW, is not really on board with this but doesn't want to sit at the dealer
al day either. Need to get this resolved as we are leaving N. Tx. for cooler climate.
Idaho, Mt. For the summer.
I hope they resolve this for you.

If they didn't clear the drain tube with a low pressure air blast it is probably still blocked. With ice on the bottom of the freezer you can be certain that the defroster is working. The water is just not going where it should. Try removing the drawer. It is a bit tricky but once the trays are out access to the back is easy. Do what you need to get the cover off the drain channel. Defrost the catch tray with a hair dryer being careful not to damage the plastic. Use a can of instant air. With the tube attached see if you can find the drain hole and give it a blast. That might dislodge the blockage.

I just looked at the trays in my freezer. When all the food is out you will see large protrusions lower in the tray bins. These are release catches. Everything just pops out.
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:50 AM   #25
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John, sorry to hear that all those things did not work. I will definitely keep an eye on mine to be sure.

Rick Y, yep, no front wheels. Good news is there are back wheels. Once I got it loose, put a couple of pieces of 3/8" plywood under the two sides to get up and over carpet, pushed it a little through the hole outside the rig to get it started, and out it came. I was a little dismayed that because there are no front wheels, (and no other means of adjusting height) the fridge is flat on the floor. So, the coil underneath is also sitting directly on floor. I had to be careful with this. When I reinstalled, I placed a 1/8" shim under each front L-bracket just to elevate this coil a smidgen. This did not screw up anything at top or get it out of level. BTW that was my helping friend's idea. Another good reason to have a helper.
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Old 06-04-2014, 06:09 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBK394 View Post
John, sorry to hear that all those things did not work. I will definitely keep an eye on mine to be sure.

Rick Y, yep, no front wheels. Good news is there are back wheels. Once I got it loose, put a couple of pieces of 3/8" plywood under the two sides to get up and over carpet, pushed it a little through the hole outside the rig to get it started, and out it came. I was a little dismayed that because there are no front wheels, (and no other means of adjusting height) the fridge is flat on the floor. So, the coil underneath is also sitting directly on floor. I had to be careful with this. When I reinstalled, I placed a 1/8" shim under each front L-bracket just to elevate this coil a smidgen. This did not screw up anything at top or get it out of level. BTW that was my helping friend's idea. Another good reason to have a helper.
This is great information. The coil should not be in contact with the floor in my opinion. I would seem that the air flow would be restricted.

About the coil: When I first bought this coach last year I pulled the kick plate off to check for dust. The coil was was fuzzy with it and I could find no way to clean it because of the cramped space and coil shape. At a later date, when Melissa was out (to save her sanity) I got the small compressor I carry and blasted air at the coil. I had the vac handy but, to my surprise, didn't need it. The dust stayed in the compartment but WAS blown off the coil. No mess in the house.

With your information in hand I will pull the frig out and give it a full inspection. I may put a "P" trap in but I will definitely shim under the front brackets.

Laying all of this trouble aside, the residential refrigerator is working great and is so much better than the old RV type. Best option I could have sought when looking for this coach.
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:05 AM   #27
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Fridge. Rep. Came out on wed. 06/04/14, appears the third time did the trick.
Put in another ice maker. He did what I think should have been done the first time.
He blew out the short hose above the new P trap. Least it hasn't cost me any $$$$!
Just agrivation! Still working.
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Old 06-07-2014, 05:56 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by poppopc View Post
Fridge. Rep. Came out on wed. 06/04/14, appears the third time did the trick.
Put in another ice maker. He did what I think should have been done the first time.
He blew out the short hose above the new P trap. Least it hasn't cost me any $$$$!
Just agrivation! Still working.
About time! Now you know what to do if this happens again.
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Old 12-24-2014, 05:52 PM   #29
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Trim Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Well done and planned.

I was working on a door problem and wanted to move the frig out a bit. The "L" brackets on the floor were where the front wheels used to be and the brackets on the top from the hinges to the wall looked like too much of a bather for what I was doing so I did not finish the removal process.

It turns out that the factory did not line up the add-on catches on top of the frig very well and the left door is being pushed out of square. Next month I'll be in a better location to do a better fix for this problem.

As for the trim board reattachment: It had been taken of at some point before me and reattached with caulking. I have a pin nailler for hobby work and it works great on the coach trim. After some frustrating cleaning off of the the goop and removal of the old bent pins, I was able to do a clean attachment of the trim.

When I get to my son's home in the Seattle area I will be tackling many maintenance issues that require that third hand.

Thanks for the great info, Rusty. Good job. Well done.

Rick Y
Hi Rick,

Wondering if it is difficult to remove the trim piece on top of the fridge. Was it nailed, glued, or just a press fit?

Thanks,

Mark
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:37 AM   #30
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Hi Rick,

Wondering if it is difficult to remove the trim piece on top of the fridge. Was it nailed, glued, or just a press fit?

Thanks,

Mark
Merry Christmas Mark.

Try using a thin putty knife to get a bit of room under the edge. Then use a thin wide pry bar of some sort to continue lifting it off. I think the goop used to hold mine on may have been hot glue. NOT a good idea. The key is not to dent or gouge the finish. The pin nails will stay in the frame most likely but some may stay in the strip. needle nose pliers will pull them out. Any that break simply cut up close and tap in or over flat.

I hope this helps. (My pry bar is for trim removal.)

Happy trails,
Rick Y
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Old 12-25-2014, 12:30 PM   #31
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Merry Christmas Mark.

Try using a thin putty knife to get a bit of room under the edge. Then use a thin wide pry bar of some sort to continue lifting it off. I think the goop used to hold mine on may have been hot glue. NOT a good idea. The key is not to dent or gouge the finish. The pin nails will stay in the frame most likely but some may stay in the strip. needle nose pliers will pull them out. Any that break simply cut up close and tap in or over flat.

I hope this helps. (My pry bar is for trim removal.)

Happy trails,
Rick Y
Thanks Rick for the quick reply and information. It certainly helps to know how Winnebago put the cabinetry together when it comes time to take it apart. I could not see if nails/stapes were used as the finishing job is well done now I know what to look for.

Thanks Again and Merry Christmas!

Mark
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:10 AM   #32
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Your welcome, Mark. My pin nailer is 23 gauge. Very fine. His is what they used to install that strip and then filled the fine holes with repair wax. This is colored wax found in the paint department of HD or Lowe's and comes in packs of assorted colors or in individual crayon sticks. The nailer is not expensive. Mine is a Hitchi. All you need is a small compressor to use it.

Don't forget to pull the grill at the bottom of the frig to gain access to the coil. Mine was filthy. I used a air hose to clean it. The dust stayed under and didn't make a mess on the galley floor.

If you have icing under the freezer trays this is an easy fix. Just post the problem and you will get the answer. It takes a bit of work but is not a big deal.

Happy New Year.

Rick Y
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