Check that outlet fridge is plugged into has 120V AC power
If NO.....check for tripped circuit breaker or tipped GFCI outlet that feeds that outlet
If YES...then check that fuse on control module is not blown (5A glass AGC type fuse on circuit board)
Also check if electric heat element is good. Normal resistance could be 44 to 63 ohms depending on which model of fridge......which you should post when asking questions about appliances.
If you would post your year, make and model of motorhome it would be helpful for those trying to help you.
In reference to the breaker, you should have a breaker panel located somewhere in your unit. You should also check for any GFCI outlet that may be tripped.
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Tom and Barb
'07 Winnebago Voyage 35L
Workhorse W22 chassis FMCA 219315
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2008 Itasca Meridian 37H & 2015 Flagstaff T12RBST
2011 & 2012 Len & Pat's "One lap of America"
27K miles & 41 states in 13 months - Woo Woo
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Yellowstone Lake 6-1-2012
Yes it's plugged in and fuses are good...where would breaker be located..it's a Norcold 682. 1992 Cheiftain 32Ft
Plugged in.....but is that outlet 'hot'?
5A fuse tested OK...not just visual check?
Heating element good? 300W ....2.9 am draw
Circuit breaker........would be in AC Power Panel (where the Main breaker is along with individual circuit breakers.........probably combined with DC Dist Fuses)
I had that problem last year and my Norcold 82xx refrigerator finally quit working all together last Spring. Mine would blow the 5 amp fuse allowing it to only run on propane. Then one day it just refused to power up. I had to replace the control board behind the refrigerator. The control board also came with a matching switch panel for the front of the refrigerator. It is not difficult to do and can be done in less than an hour. I found the board online at American RV.
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Nathan and Linda, 2000 Winnebago Chieftain 35U, F53 Chassis, Banks Power Pack
Linear Mode
