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Old 04-28-2022, 08:16 AM   #1
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Propane problem

We use propane for cooktop, on demand hot water and heater. Everything was working fine until 2 days ago nothing gas worked. I thought it might be a bad gauge since the inside gauge said half full and the gauge on the tank said 3/4 full. Took it to refill and it only took 4 gallons for my 13 gallon tank. Turned the cooktop on and it burned for ~20 seconds and stopped.
I had a new regulator put on last year and everything worked fine until 2 days ago.
Any ideas what i could try before taking it in?
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Old 04-28-2022, 08:55 AM   #2
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It might be helpful if you can show what the year, make and model of your rv is. There may be something specific to your rv. Thanks.
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Old 04-28-2022, 09:02 AM   #3
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makes sense, thanks for reminder. 2015 Itasca Viva 23L
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Old 04-28-2022, 09:38 AM   #4
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There should be either a valve at the propane tank or a switch that engages a solenoid valve to turn off and on the propane supply. Check to see if it is set properly. The solenoid valve type usually has a switch at the propane tank and another inside your coach. Both have to be set on to supply propane to the appliances.

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Old 04-28-2022, 10:19 AM   #5
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I have a switch outside next to the water heater and one inside for it as well. I turned these on but still unable to light the cooktop. Forgot to mention that LP is used for fridge as well when not connected to power but thankfully have solar panels that took over for that.
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Old 04-28-2022, 10:43 AM   #6
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It's not clear if the stove is the only thing that's not working on LPG, please clarify.
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Old 04-28-2022, 11:16 AM   #7
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Nothing that runs on propane is working, I just mention the cooktop since that is the easiest to check but heater and hot water not working either.
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Old 04-28-2022, 12:07 PM   #8
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This will take you to the parts catalog where you can input your specific model (early or late?) and look at the locations and list of the part of the LP system.
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm

I see no mention on either of any solenoid to fail, so I skip that for a temp failure.

Also I do not think of it as being a valve closed from what you describe. I feel if a valve was closed and you turn something on and it runs long enough to use any gas remaining in the line from the closed valve to the item, then I would not expect enough gas left to restart and burn for twenty seconds on the second try.

But we can also get caught in fooling ourselves, so maybe some checking is good. One of the most simple items for operation is the cooktop as there are no delays,or many safety items involved. We turn on the gas and it flows or not! Gas getsto the burner or it doesn't! Furnace and water heaters tend to have several "steps" in the operation, making us think things that are not really true!

Enought gas to get the cooktop to light but then go out and we are sure the tank has gas, makes me fall back to it being a regulator failure, since there is very little else in that line.

Maybe a check with the folks who did the reg change as it may be a warrenty item?
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Old 04-28-2022, 01:59 PM   #9
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Just a WAG here: The propane guy before filling, turned the switch from off to on by mistake. He realized his mistake and turned it back off. That filled the system with propane and he left it off and is why the stove lit for ten seconds to burn off the propane left.

Check again the position of those switches. Do they have on/off labels. Does the solenoid valve click when you turn the switch from on to off and back to on?

Either the solenoid valve is bad, one of the switches is bad or maybe you don't have DC power to the circuit. Is the use/store switch set to use? Is there a fuse on the converter panel that may have blown?

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Old 04-28-2022, 02:34 PM   #10
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I am sure your battery switch is on? Next check for power to the circuit that the solenoid valve is on, make sure the connectors are intact underneath at the valve. The valve is controlled by an electromagnet and if you crawl underneath while someone switches it on you should hear a click. They sell test magnets if your solenoid is bad, you just remove yours and slide the test magnet over the shaft and the valve will open. It's almost as easy to replace the solenoid though. Another thing to check is that the manual shutoff didn't get turned but this would be pretty unlikely, someone would have to crawl under the rig and turn it off, it is a small brass wheel attached at the valve location.
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Old 04-28-2022, 03:13 PM   #11
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Thanks for the suggestions, all very helpful. I loosened the hose going into the regulator and gas flowing from tank, replaced that and removed hose coming out of regulator and no gas comes out when valve is turned on.
Based on this I'm thinking it is a bad regulator, now i just need to decide if i want to replace it myself which is a little out of my comfort zone or wait a few weeks to have repair shop do it. The place that replaced it last year has undergone some changes and are no longer reliable so I won't be taking it back there.
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Old 04-29-2022, 08:17 AM   #12
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Very smart trouble shooting on your part, you sound more capable than you give yourself credit for. Still, if you aren't comfortable changing it yourself you can probably find someone, even a gas BBQ or appliance person could do it. Of course in these times it may be hard to find anyone who isn't booked out.
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Old 04-29-2022, 08:36 AM   #13
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You might search for some videos on how to replace a regulator and you will see that it is pretty easy if you have some common tools.

Replacement regulators do seem to have a higher failure rate than you would expect. At some RV parts stores, I see them just sitting loose in a big bin. I wonder if they get crud in them from that? I would buy one that comes in a plastic package.
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Old 04-29-2022, 01:55 PM   #14
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Replacement regulator ordered, couldn't find one locally. Watched a couple videos, got my yellow teflon tape and will report back how it goes. I've done a fair amount of plumbing work and it looks like it shouldn't be that difficult. I'll just be sure to check and double check for leaks.
I really appreciate all of the comments/help!
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Old 04-29-2022, 02:10 PM   #15
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The thread tape is OK on pipe threads but not to be used on compression fittings or flare fittings.
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Old 04-29-2022, 05:27 PM   #16
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long shot, but..Shut the main valve off...wait a couple of minutes or turn the stove on to relieve any pressure in the line..and turn it off..then go back to the main tank then VERY slowly turn the main valve on ,,VERY slowly cannot emphasize that enough.. go back to cook stove and try to light it up....FYI there is an EXCESS FLOW internal valve and you may just have triggered that..hope that works.
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Old 05-04-2022, 12:27 PM   #17
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So replacement arrived and has been installed. I tested, retested and triple tested with a soap solution and no leaks found. Cooktop, heat, hot water and fridge all work fine. Thanks to all for comments, suggestions and encouragement. Total cost $38 and I gained working knowledge of another component of my RV which is very valuable. Thanks Again!
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Old 05-04-2022, 01:46 PM   #18
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congrats! glad it all worked out for you...stuff like that always seem to happen in the middle of a camping trip for me...good job.
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Old 05-04-2022, 04:01 PM   #19
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Just an add on here.
Propane tanks can get crud in them that falls out of solution from the liquid propane. When you fill the tank, the high pressure can force crud into the regulator. So I’m told, by my repair guy. So if the tank is really old, it should be replaced, and if the regulator gets fouled, it sometimes can be cleared with high pressure compressed air. Don’t know for sure, as it’s never happened to me. Anybody else been told this?
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Old 05-05-2022, 05:49 AM   #20
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Loose connect

Another add-on tip:

The tank-to-regulator connecting nut: mine vibrated loose. Probably due to normal road travel vibrations. Connection is hidden by plastic dust shield. No propane anywhere in rig. But, thankfully no tank leak due to auto-shutoff in line connection. Now, I check it occasionally.
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