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Old 03-29-2023, 07:14 PM   #1
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Propane gone 2005 Adventurer 33V

I have a new to me 2005 winnebago adventurer 33v. It has the basement ac furnace heat pump. It has got down to the 30 degree range here in oregon. I have the motor home plugged into shore power. 50 amp. I have the thermostat set for about 65. I have it set to electric heat I noticed yesterday the propane is at 0 on the read out in the motor home. Anyone no what happened is there something I should be doing or is this normal. I have had it about a month just sitting at home. Like I say this is new to me motorhome. Also heat seems to come from ceiling not floor vents. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 03-30-2023, 03:22 AM   #2
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If the heat pump can not keep up with the temperature the system will automatically kick over to propane. There is a 5 degree area for that to happen, i.e. if you set for 65 and coach temp is 59 propane will kick in.

The heat pump heat comes from the ceiling vents the propane from the floor vents. Do not rely on amount of propane from he inside read out, check at the tank. It does not take long to run the tank down with the furnace.

I would get electric space heaters to help keep coach warm.

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...Adventurer.pdf

There is a lot of knowledge in the Winnebago owners site that may come in handy
https://www.winnebago.com/home
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Old 03-30-2023, 07:38 AM   #3
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It might be thought of like this. The AC at the back runs through ceiling ducts, while the furnace will always run through the floor ducts.
Then as a "bonus", some RV do have heating in the rear AC unit. It is not terribly big and often not enough to do the full heating job. But they do use many of the same parts as cooling. Things like the ductwork!

But when the rear heat can no longer keep up to maintain the thermostat setting the regular furnace heat will come on. It is the main heat system and much stronger. But it has a seperate system of ducts that run through the floor. Since warm air rises and cool sinks, each set of ducts is placed to be more effeciaent for their main job, cooling or heating.

There is normally a small round gauge on the tank where you can often get a better reading of the propane than on the remote reading inside. Neither are terribly precise, so I believe most folks kind of look at the gauges as "clue" more than reliably true. Not a good practice to start a trip with 1/4 tank as that is often kind of "guessimate" of what you have.

Takes time to get used to new toys! Enjoy the trek!
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Old 03-30-2023, 09:13 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info I now know what I should do well pretty soon off the propane filling station , I will use a space heater that I had in my previous 5th wheel. Thanks again. You learn a lot of stuff here
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Old 03-30-2023, 10:15 AM   #5
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We found the fuinrace to be way to noisy for what we liked and since we were often at places with electricity, we made some changes to the small heaters to make them fit us better.
We want the heat but without hearing it and we also wanted better temperature control than the knob on heaters, so a small mod fit us.

We wanted the heat controlled where we were sleeping and we wanted it stable! To do that we moved the heaters forward to cut the noise, pointed them to th eback bedroom and used a remote thermostat to control the heat. With the thermostat hanging on the bedroom wall as well as being digital it turned the heat on and off in the other part of the RV without us doing anything!

This is one we found priceless for what we wanted without anything hard to set up or manage. We plugged the heater into it, took the thermostat with us and when we got up and wanted to set and have coffee without the noise we moved the heat to the back and the thermostat to the front with us!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-T...erId=101221954
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Old 03-30-2023, 07:09 PM   #6
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I assume you have a Coleman-Mach basement heat pump/air conditioner. Each function is exactly the same size, 24,000BTU.
The usual problem with these units is lack of normal maintenance = replacing the air filter on a regular basis.
Above 40°F the heat pump will heat the MH fine. Here is the service manual for the most common model, the 6535; https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rvp/6535heatpump.pdf It also explains the operation of the unit.
If you tell us the model # of your unit I can offer more information.
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Old 04-05-2023, 04:39 PM   #7
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The heat coming out of the ceiling vents indicates the heat pump is working. Unless something is wrong with your propane gauge system, you are out of propane. The outside temperature where the heat pump will work depends on humidity. These basement units do not have a defrost cycle capability, so when the outdoor coil freon cools to a preset temp, the unit will shut down.
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Old 04-06-2023, 06:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DancinCampers View Post
The heat coming out of the ceiling vents indicates the heat pump is working. Unless something is wrong with your propane gauge system, you are out of propane. The outside temperature where the heat pump will work depends on humidity. These basement units do not have a defrost cycle capability, so when the outdoor coil freon cools to a preset temp, the unit will shut down.
Perhaps your Coleman-Mach does not have a defrost mode, but my 6535 does. It temporarily reverses to cooling mode to defrost the outside radiator.
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Old 04-07-2023, 04:32 PM   #9
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Well then you are blessed. All the info I have on the 6535 never mentions defrost cycle, only that the tstat will lock out the heat pump and use propane furnace as primary source. 8 years of use of the 6535 unit in my "03 Adventurer never initiated a defrost cycle. In a home unit a defrost cycle is accompanied by a heating source, either electric coils or gas furnace, to warm the cold air. But then AirXcel has been known, in my opinion, to move backwards when they produce their new products.
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