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Old 01-10-2021, 08:13 PM   #1
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Propane appliances wonít work

We have a 2004 Vectra. After having our L P tank filled nothing will work. We had use the stove and water heater before filling the tank and everything worked fine. The temperature here is in the forties so there is no freezing. We tried lighting the stove with a match and did not notice any air flow against the flame of the match, neither did I smell propane. It seems that the problem may be at the supply since all my LP appliances, not just one, will not light. Can anyone help me?
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Old 01-10-2021, 08:48 PM   #2
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Did you open the valve on the tank? When they fill the tank, they will close the valve that supplies the coach.
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Old 01-11-2021, 04:02 AM   #3
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I would also go with the value turned off, but you may also want to make sure your propane detector switch has not been turned off. That switch is in the cabin floor level and should have a green lite.
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Old 01-11-2021, 07:01 AM   #4
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Thanks for your reply yes the value is open and the propane detector has a green lite. I guess we will look further.
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Old 01-11-2021, 07:29 AM   #5
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Which Vectra do you have as a look at the drawings on the parts catalog may show something like a solenoid which may have stuck?
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Old 01-11-2021, 09:05 AM   #6
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We have the 40KD
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Old 01-11-2021, 09:32 AM   #7
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Sorry, I come up empty on spotting a problem as part of the problem is the drawings for propane and before 2010 are more just a listing of parts, rather than showing items.
I did not spot anything like a solenoid that might be stuck.

My best thought would depend on how you feel about working with gas. One could loosen a fitting carefully to see that gas it coming out at that point---but that has a certain amount of risk involved, so consider your experience level before going that way.
Another way and safer is to take the RV to a propane dealer and ask what they see at the tank.
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Old 01-11-2021, 02:24 PM   #8
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Thanks for your advice. I found the solenoid has no power to it. I checked my off /on switch in the coach and it is only showing .006 volts which is nothing. Now what is supplying power to the off / on switch in the coach? Is there a safety switch some where?
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Old 01-11-2021, 03:11 PM   #9
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OKAY! That sounds like news and a place to start but let me check some things.
To be sure we are not talking different things, what on/off switch do you mean? Are you speaking of the big battery disconnect switch that turns off most of the DC powered things or another switch?
Also where is the solenoid you found? Is it in the gas line at some point? Or is it the big solenoid we call "mode solenoid" that is often easy to find as it has a big label on it!
Just trying to get on the same page so we are speaking the same things!!

EDIT! Bet I found what switch. Does it look like this?
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Old 01-11-2021, 03:36 PM   #10
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found some clues to a possible second switch at the "remote fill bracket"??
Are you aware of an inside coach switch as well as a second on the bracket?
Click this drawing to get a better read of what I'm looking at.

Theory being that they may have turned off a switch outside which is not one you might have known about because folks always turned it back on again??
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Old 01-11-2021, 04:03 PM   #11
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Chasing the wiring, it appears the power for the LP detector is a wire WB which also feeds power from a 6 amp breaker to a power toilet?
That might be a clue, if you have a problem with the toilet that the 6amp breaker is tripped???
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Old 01-11-2021, 04:27 PM   #12
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I have the same model/year. There is a propane on/off switch by the fill inlet in the outside bay. SOP is that the propane guy would have turned it off before filling. Both the external switch in the propane fill area as well as the propane switch at the top of your One Place utility panel need to be turned on for the propane to flow. Check both switches before you chase wiring.
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Old 01-11-2021, 06:46 PM   #13
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I am making reference to the solenoid where the LP. Come out of the tank. Also the switch is above the central control panel on the inside the coach, there are two switch one for the water heater to heat water on electric, and one to shut off the propane. There is no emergency shut off switch where the LP fill point is located, there is a slot where they could have put one but it is filled with a blank. How can I test a solenoid to determine if it is good?
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Old 01-11-2021, 07:45 PM   #14
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You should have a shutoff in the slideout front bay where the propane fill accessed just behind the driver front tire. While the fill is back on the chassis frame (so the slide must be retracted to connect to the propane inlet) the switch is in the upper right of the bay itself. Might have to bend down a bit to see it tucked up there. See attached photo.
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Old 01-12-2021, 07:11 AM   #15
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You answered my question!!! I never knew that there was a switch there. I was looking on the mount where you connect the fill hose. Emiddleb thanks soooo Much!! Also thanks to everyone who written a post to help! Glenn
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Old 06-10-2021, 03:59 PM   #16
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OP: Did you get your LP gas working again just by flipping that outside emergency switch to "on?"

My 2004 Itasca Horizon Emergency Switch is not working, but I do have propane to my heater and stove; and I think my Emergency Shutoff Solenoid is stuck open.

Note: My LP Detector was located on the floor (mounted on the side of the sink cabinet) but it is not powered-up. I.e., the LP detector is disconnected. I now use a more modern LP detector.

Just the same, I don't believe the LP Detector has the ability to turn off the emergency LP switch? And I don't think it can according to the wire diagram above. ...Can someone verify the LP Detector can only make noise when it detects LP gas?

I have not checked for voltage to my LP Emergency Shutoff switch or to the solenoid. However, if the power is off, wouldn't that mean the solenoid would close? Isn't this solenoid valve normally closed with out power?

...In my case my LP gas is always "on" in my RV and I want the ability to shut the switch inside my RV, as well as outside my RV, "off."

So what would you recommend:

A) Check power?

B) Wrap on the solenoid valve with a hammer (lightly) to free it up?

C) And if I have to replace the solenoid, do I have to drain the LP tank, or can I just replace the electrical top half of the solenoid switch?

Please post your answers below and in this new thread I opened, because my solenoid shut off valve is stuck open or it's not working like it should.

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3898008

BTW. I discovered by only by chance. I was installing a t-fitting before my RV Tank Regulator and the hose I was replacing goes to that electric solenoid tank valve the Emergency Switch controls.
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