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Old 03-13-2023, 06:48 AM   #1
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No Power to Norcold 1211 2010 Journey Express 34Y

I have a Journey Express 34Y with a Norcold 1211 with a no power at all issue - batteries, shorepower, propane.

I checked for the presence of the Red Light inside the outdoor panel and it's a 'no glow' so a reset isn't an option.
Reset the 12V breaker for the fridge inside the coach - hard to tell when you reset if it happens tho.
Reset the 120V breaker on the main panel.

Next...
I have read that the power board fuse may be blown but is the power board behind the fridge? Meaning I have to slide it out ? That is probably a non-starter for me? But is that where the power board is? Any insight appreciated?

And as we are starting a 6 week 'get Spring to come early' trip thru georgia, florida and alabama, does any one have insight on a good RV center that may look at this for me in the I-75 corridor from Forsyth, Ga thru to Tampa-St Pete or in the Panhandle area from Pensacola to Gulf Shores?

Thanks for any insights.
Brian
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Old 03-13-2023, 09:27 AM   #2
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I don't know that model, so can't say what you see when looking in the outside panel.
So can you see the board and parts mentioned in this manual?

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...10_630613E.pdf
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Old 03-14-2023, 03:15 AM   #3
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The fuses can be located from the outside access door. There should be a black plastic cover about 3/4 +/- that has the circuit board and fuses. I believe there are two fuses. You might also want to check your GFI outlets as the frig is plugged into one of the in line outlets. One other thing is maybe you turned off the 12v systems,(battery disconnect switch) do any of your other 12v stuff works i.e. water pump.
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Old 03-14-2023, 05:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by be happy View Post
The fuses can be located from the outside access door. There should be a black plastic cover about 3/4 +/- that has the circuit board and fuses. I believe there are two fuses. You might also want to check your GFI outlets as the frig is plugged into one of the in line outlets. One other thing is maybe you turned off the 12v systems,(battery disconnect switch) do any of your other 12v stuff works i.e. water pump.
Got it. Thanks. As soon as it’s get I’ll check out. Based on another reply I picked some fuses last night to be ready. Hope that is all it is.
Brian
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Old 03-14-2023, 05:43 PM   #5
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Just a quick update…
found box, opened and chickened out taking it apart after reading the manual - it was a dark cold and stormy night so fooling with electrical stuff in the high 30s after dark didn’t seem too bright.

mid-state rv in byron ga was on our way, called ahead and they could see us. sometimes with a freezer and fridge full of things and 2 days into a 6 week trip it is wiser, and maybe safer, to seek professional help.

so they let me see the whole process answered a boatload of questions…
did check the 120 input line this morning- all good

checked if board was getting 12 volts - all good

did the magnet trick on the relay which worked after a storm last spring - not good this time

swapped out board and momentarily got power to fridge but relay tripped things off

checked board for blown fuses - fuses were good
checked again for 120 and 12 volt input - all good

gotta be the relay

resetting the relay did not work so we called ahead to next step and will pick relay up on our way south Wednesday and the tech showed me how to install so we’ll how that works

frustrated but bags of ice are keeping things frozen and cold so far
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Old 03-15-2023, 03:19 AM   #6
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Sorry its not an easy fix. When you said bags of ice it brought back memories of a trip two years ago. We were about a week into a 4 week trip and the frig. stopped working. Did the magnet thing again check with local tech. Was told cooling unit pretty much toast.

Started buying bags of ice put in the bottom bins other than a pain worked well. We tried dry ice that did not work well at all. Went and bought a seperate cooler and finished the trip out.

Once home looked into what to do and how to replace. I found out getting a new Norcold in would hae to be through the front window so that was a no go. I am not a good carpenter so I knew I would not beable to make a residential frig. look like it belonged.

We ended up replacing the cooling unit with one from JC Refrigeration. As we never boondock and am always plugged in we went with the totally 110 unit. What an easy DIY project the folks at JC Refrigeration are great to work with and there to help you with the installation.

https://jc-refrigeration.com/

After the install we have been very happy with the cooling, would do it again if had to.

Good luck
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Old 03-15-2023, 07:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpcannan View Post
Just a quick update…
found box, opened and chickened out taking it apart after reading the manual - it was a dark cold and stormy night so fooling with electrical stuff in the high 30s after dark didn’t seem too bright.

mid-state rv in byron ga was on our way, called ahead and they could see us. sometimes with a freezer and fridge full of things and 2 days into a 6 week trip it is wiser, and maybe safer, to seek professional help.

so they let me see the whole process answered a boatload of questions…
did check the 120 input line this morning- all good

checked if board was getting 12 volts - all good

did the magnet trick on the relay which worked after a storm last spring - not good this time

swapped out board and momentarily got power to fridge but relay tripped things off

checked board for blown fuses - fuses were good
checked again for 120 and 12 volt input - all good

gotta be the relay

resetting the relay did not work so we called ahead to next step and will pick relay up on our way south Wednesday and the tech showed me how to install so we’ll how that works

frustrated but bags of ice are keeping things frozen and cold so far
So I see the results you got down to step 4 but what did you get at that point? Did you get good voltage coming out?

Then where did the relay come into the question?

I see no mention of it in these directions or is that just a random suggestion from the repair folks? ?
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Old 03-15-2023, 08:09 AM   #8
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got good voltage coming out of board

yes relay was tech suggested and seemed to the next logical flaw

i am hopeful that is it

open to additional thoughts

thanks
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Old 03-15-2023, 09:58 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by bpcannan View Post
got good voltage coming out of board

yes relay was tech suggested and seemed to the next logical flaw

i am hopeful that is it

open to additional thoughts

thanks
Sounds like you are good down to step 5, so I would go ahead with checking for good voltages and follow the troubleshooting trail.
The problem with jumping off on suggestions from phone calls to repair is that they have no skin in the game and selling parts is always good for them, even if it means nothing to you getting it fixed!
There are so many times that the problem is just simple corrosion that we find as we test.
Just the simple act of pulling the connections apart and putting them back will often clear trouble.
that is why repair finds so many bad boards, if they change it out and it then works. They could do the same by pulling the connections loose and putting them on the old board but it pays better if they sell new boards!
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Old 03-15-2023, 10:23 AM   #10
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I hear you.
The tech recommending the relay didn’t change the recommendation after he knew I wouldn’t be buying it from them.

I’ll know later today or tonight.
Thanks for thinking this out with me.
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Old 03-15-2023, 08:14 PM   #11
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If the board is not passing 12VDC through to the fridge controls nothing will work, not LP, not 120VAC heaters. The ONLY thing that is 120VAC is the electric 2 heaters


Sometimes the Norcold recall box (black box) will completely fail and the red light will not work either. You may test that by running a jumper wire to eliminate the black box temporarily. If it is bad, Norcold will replace it free, but you will have to pay labor.


When you get the fridge running and have time, I strongly recommend you buy and install a Fridge Defend/ARP unit. It prevents cooling unit damage from running in an unlevel condition and overheating.
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Old 03-16-2023, 08:30 AM   #12
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'Morning;
Wanted to drop back in and say thank you for the advice and insight on my fridge issue.
Just installed the new controller module part (took all of 5 minutes) and we now have a working fridge - Norcold 1211. The part was pricey - $131 - installation so easy a caveman could do it - and so far so good.

What did I learn...
trust folks in this forum for calm reasoned insight

probably could have replaced the power board myself but under pressure some things you bite the bullet on

have faith that people are good like the 2 folks we worked with at Mid-State RV in Byron, Ga and not always trying to rip us off

it pays to stay flexible when RVing - stuff's going to happen, just roll with it and get some help figuring it out

Thanks
Brian
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