Needing more intel on heater

[Blkbart]

Hello,
I'm probably becoming a nuisance on here ;-) . As you know my first issue with the heater was the gale force fan motor, wondering if Winnebago even refined this issue and how? A buddy and I are researching placing a rheostat in the power feed to slow this beast down. Secondly while using the electric heat it doesn't seem to get very warm. Is there a a heating element that can be replaced? Most importantly is there a reasonable access to the unit, can it be removed?

Thanks,
Bart

2003 Itasca Horizon 34 HD

[creativepart]

If you have a typical LP heater on your Horizon (I don't know if you do) then you have two round heater exhaust vents on your RV. Either on one side or on the back in the rear cap. The heater is usually right behind two two approx 3" round vents. And there is usually a removable panel covering the area.

[Blkbart]

Creativepart,
I do have the LP heater with the dual vent on the passenger side. It's right next to the water heater. I'll be replacing the water heater next week, as for the water heater the flame is not consistent while running and the the electric option really sucks. Additionally in my application, the water heater uses engine coolant to maintain heat while driving. The water heater is right next the to vents you referred to, hoping the removed water heater might reveal more to the coach LP heater unit.

I imagine the LP heater and the electric heat are totally separate? The electric heater feeds through the ceiling vents while the LP heater uses the floor vents.
On the electric side of heating do any of you have knowledge of the manufacturer for parts or diagrams?
Thanks,
Bart

[creativepart]

The "electric heater" is most likely your A/C running in Heat Pump mode. When you run an A/C unit backwards rather than take out heat from inside the RV it takes heat from the outside air around your RV and pumps that into your RV via the A/C ducts.

This is obviously totally separate from the propane heater in the floor.

Heat Pumps only work when outside air is approx 40 degree or higher. With lower outside temps around 37 to 40 there is not enough heat in the outside air to be effective. Many systems will automatically switch from Heat Pump to the Propane Heater when outside temps drop to ~40.

Some A/C Heat Pumps do have optional "heat strips" that can be installed in the airflow. These work like an electric heater and simply heat up the air being pumped into your RV. I don't think every A/C HP unit can be retrofitted with these - but surely some can. With the addition of these your HP will provide heat below 40 degrees. Most folks just switch to their Propane Heaters.

Generally, the Water Heater can be fixed to work better - and not needing to be replaced. There are tons of Atwood Service Locations to work on that and a number of YouTube videos if you want to work on it yourself. Yes, the coach coolant from the engine circulates in the heater. WBGO calls it Motorad, I believe. "Usually" the water heater with Motorad is not super easy to replace - between the coolant lines, propane lines, etc it's a complex device.

The motorad feature is great - on travel days you arrive with a full tank of hot water before you even turn on your water heater.

I don't know how you remove the water heater - I have heard of folks saying you have to do a lot of work disconnecting things on the back of the water heater and that can only be reached from under the RV.