Dash A/C 2001 Adventurer 32V (Ford)

[bobpitzer]

2001 Ford chassis.The dash a/c will be working & for no apparent reason will quit & then only warn air out dash outlets.Of course this happens while driving,so am not able to see if compressor is engaged.After this happens,usually after a stop,then unit will work again.Doesn't occur on a regular basis.Have driven numerous days in a row & all is fine,then maybe next day
it quits.Have checked fron pressure and is adequate.Any ideas where to start to troubleshoot this

[creativepart]

Using the info I could find based on your Profile I took a guess that you have a 2001 Adventurer on a F53 chassis. I hope that's correct. If not please let me know so I can fix your title.

When asking for any help we always need to know the year, model and floor plan designator to know exactly what specific RV you are asking about.

Most of us put this info in our Signature in our Profile. That way we don't have to remember to add that info to every post. I'll post instructions below on how to modify your Signature.

As, to dash Air/Heat that is usually a function of various vacuum operated mixing valves. Also, many times engine designers setup the A/C compressor clutch to disengage under heavy load or acceleration. This stops the compressor from sapping your engines power but it also cuts your A/C cooling. On the other hand, engine vacuum increases and decreases based on how much air is flowing through the intact manifold into the engine. So, this would result in changes in those vacuum mixing valves as you accelerate or let off the gas.

Figuring out the issue takes more info about when this happens and what seems to be happening at the time you lose cooling. Not easy for us to do over the internet.

Sometimes a visit to an Auto Air Conditioning shop can sort these issues out quickly - but keep in mind that the mainly plastic parts that make up this system get aged and brittle over 20+ years of use.

[BobC]

Try turning your A/C on and off while driving to see if you can sense a change in your engine RPMs or load as the compressor kicks in and out. Once you have a feel for this you might be able to determine if the compressor kicks out when your problem reoccurs.

On the other hand, creativepart's suggestion of visiting an A/C shop is a good one, even if it's just to get a quick read on what he problem might be.

[NeilV]

On a 20 year old coach with that type of problem I would start checking for vacuum leaks since the plastic emissions tubing they used in them was highly prone to failure from UV exposure. The fitting going to the vacuum reservoir behind the front cross rail behind the bumper has a rubber fitting that was prone to failure too. Hopefully you'll find a simple leak at a loose vacuum line or perhaps some tubing that has started to perforate.

The way the older vehicles sensed heavy loads was just via a simple vacuum switch which would cut out the AC compressor when engine vacuum dropped below a certain level which would indicate the throttle body was wide open so that intake vacuum was down in the single digits.

Another item to check is the high pressure cutout switch which will shut down the compressor if the refrigerant pressure is too high and then the low pressure cutout that protects against running without refrigerant. A dirty or loose connection or faulty switch could also cause intermittent cutting out as would a bad connection or fuse on the AC Clutch or an AC Clutch that is in the process of failing electrically. Of course so could low or high refrigerant pressures at certain temperature, throttle extremes or when a system is moderately under or over charged with refrigerant.

[BobC]

This may help:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/vacu...53-324570.html