Coleman Basement Air 6537

[Journey cat]

I consider all the input on Capacitors very valuable.
I have knowledge coming from a family with 3 electricians , one of witch rebuilt motors as he was in heating repair . Unfortunately , I no longer can ask any of them.
Myself I have replaced / upgraded main panels to houses from 150 A to 200 A .
And Installed circuits for lights , fans , outlets & alarms , ect. .
Caps Ill admit I have limited knowledge on .
As some have said , they have no name on them , others made in China such as Supco . Others may not have info printed on them .
I would like one that is so called over rated .
Today I went to a local electrical store ive used before . And was told they don't deal with Caps . Also have been to Granger witch has , Dayton 45 Microfarad Rating,370VAC Voltage.
it's difficult for me to make a decision .
Im getting tired searching the net . Please , pick me a winner !
So I can move forward on this project .

[cef2lion]

I ordered all my caps from adventurerrv.net. I used the Winnebago part numbers on my parts PDF for my 2004 Adventurer and searched on there site. That gets you caps rated on what was originally installed. I'm not sure where you would get caps over the original rated values.

[BobC]

I bought Coleman replacement capacitors online on Amazon. Here's the link to one of them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Journey cat]

The cold weather has me on hold !
Bob , the link you provided . 30 MFD ?
Would that be used for the outdoor 2 speed blower which calls for 12.5 ?

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Journey cat

The cold weather has me on hold !
Bob , the link you provided . 30 MFD ?
Would that be used for the outdoor 2 speed blower which calls for 12.5 ?

No, that was just a sample to show you that Amazon does have Coleman part number capacitors. The link is for a compressor run capacitor. You'll need the Coleman part number and go from there. It should be in the manual.

Bob

[Heating man]

Originally Posted by Journey cat

I consider all the input on Capacitors very valuable.
I have knowledge coming from a family with 3 electricians , one of witch rebuilt motors as he was in heating repair . Unfortunately , I no longer can ask any of them.
Myself I have replaced / upgraded main panels to houses from 150 A to 200 A .
And Installed circuits for lights , fans , outlets & alarms , ect. .
Caps Ill admit I have limited knowledge on .
As some have said , they have no name on them , others made in China such as Supco . Others may not have info printed on them .
I would like one that is so called over rated .
Today I went to a local electrical store ive used before . And was told they don't deal with Caps . Also have been to Granger witch has , Dayton 45 Microfarad Rating,370VAC Voltage.
it's difficult for me to make a decision .
Im getting tired searching the net . Please , pick me a winner !
So I can move forward on this project .

Granger has good capacitors go with those. If you want a little heavier duty buy 440 volt instead of 370VAC. Those plastic case capacitor were available a few years ago but nobody is using them anymore. All new residential A/C units have metal run capacitors and they don't rust out. Sometime you see some rust on them after many years but it does not hurt their operation

[SmilingSimon]

as said before, more farads is usually fine but make sure the voltage is equal or higher.


the purpose of a 'start' cap is to start the motor rotating, more capacitance is fine for that, once it is rotating the start cap is no longer used.


some seem to have a 'run' cap too, this is likely smaller but still the voltage rating should be as high as possible, this will always prevent or lessen break down of the internal fluids and layers.
GL!

[BobC]

Here's a related thread that may help you sort out the capacitor issue:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3880666

[Journey cat]

My unit is running and has been re installed . It sure is quiet now .Which is a great thing as its located under the Bed . it's now just a slight humming sound
I believe it is mostly due to the updated plastic blower wheels and pre lubed Dayton bearings .

Here is a list of costs for what ive done to the unit .
Most all parts i purchased on EBay .
In Door Blower wheel # 1472-1151 - $60
Out Door Blower wheel # 1472-1161 - $45
2 Compressor Electric Relays , Potter Brumfield # T92P7D22-12 or 1460-1131 - $25
1 Out Door Run Capacitor 12.5 mfd , 1499-5731 - $17
1 In Door Run Capacitor 7.5 mfd # 1499-5461 - $10
2 Start Capacitors , 8333A9021 - $24 each
2 Compressor Run Capacitors , 45 mfd # 1499-5731 - $30
2 Dayton sealed bearings , 2X897 - $36 .
Most of the time on this repair was due to waiting for parts to be delivered ,
Which availability may be sketchy due to vendors . So order your parts in advance if attempting this job !

[cef2lion]

Good info. I followed the same path. I have that slight hum as well. Both wheels have been updated to plastic and bearings over the bushings. I can only hear that outside.

[imnprsd]

JourneyCat: Thanks again for posting this thread!

QUESTIONS FOR ANYONE WHO KNOWS...

* Looks like the total parts cost for JourneyCat's overhaul is ~$271. So I'm wondering what do you think a shop would charge for this same overhaul/PM?

* On a scale of 1-5, how difficult was this overhaul?

* Did you do any special insulating inside the box?

* I know you did not replace a compressor, but based on your research, if someone needed a compressor... is there a second source? ...Or are you SOL?

* Did you use a floor jack or were you able to manhandle the 200 lbs Basement AC and remove it from the rails?

* I'm guessing the plastic blower is now spinning faster. So I'm wondering if your air flow out the vents is any stronger? ...I'm guessing no noticeable change?

* Are you saying the metal blower was quieter vs. plastic? If so, do you think the higher pitch blower noise is caused buy the sharper plastic fins cutting the air or is the sound more like a vibration hum from the plastic flexing?

* Can you discern a different bearing noise from the fan hum?

* And just to be clear, can you hear the hum inside the RV or is the sound only noticeable outside?

I'm sure the noise is not uncomfortable, but it does sound like this was unexpected. So I'm nit picking to get a clear picture of the source... and I'm wondering if anything can be done to lower the pitch of the sound? What do you think?

OTHER REFERENCES

* Start Capacitor "Hard Start Kit" modifications:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3880666

[Journey cat]

I have not researched if compressors are available . I just used 5 gal paint containers . and slid it out . On my unit its held up by 4 bolts . No styrofoam on the top of my 6537 . Just a rubber pad and weather striping . I lowered it and pushed it out . The screws people talk about hitting . I removed and replaced with SS screw & nut . Head down made it easy to install . At present I dont have a comment on air volume . . but it seems normal at this time . I believe its quieter and not sure if its because of the plastic wheels or the new bearings . The Hum I hear is what I would say is normal considering its near the bed . But its much more quiet than before . I am much more happy with the mild sound now rather than before . And I did find the water proof Duck tape in WalMart for $10 . Ill use it to tighten up some loose ends I have and maybe more ! The pictures you post are for the 6535 . The electrical box is on the side . My 6537 its on the top above the in door blower .
And my rear panel is removable , not sure of the 6535 model , which made it easy to R & R the out door blower .

[Journey cat]

I read the link you posted . Its not that R22 is not available as yet but cost of it is rising and it wont be long . The problem is that there is no ports to put gauges and freon in the unit . I have read where ports can be added if necessary .

[imnprsd]

JourneyCat: I now see your 6537-671 has a different layout than my 6535-671 Basement AC! Thank you for restating this fact. I seemed to have missed this point.

I find it interesting that our two basement ACs use the same components. ...Maybe the xxxx-671 designation implies these series of Basement ACs use the Matsushita/Panasonic type compressors and use 45uF Run Capacitors vs. other models that use the Tecumseh type compressors and smaller Run Capacitors.

Does your AC start faster now that you replaced the Start Capacitor and have a new Motor Starter (WSX7)? ...It's amazing your old, melted Motor Starter still worked? ...But I guess this also suggests the compressor is built pretty solid and will not fail unless that Motor Start (PTCR) is fully closed all the time... keeping the start winding powered up and overheating. Of course, that's what the "Overload Device" is supposed to protect, but like a circuit breaker they work 97% of the time.

How many hours of work are involved to pull, R&R, and reinstall your AC? (Not counting the time to order parts?)

[cbeierl]

Originally Posted by imnprsd

JourneyCat:...
I find it interesting that our two basement ACs use the same components. ...Maybe the xxxx-671 designation implies these series of Basement ACs use the Matsushita/Panasonic type compressors and use 45uF Run Capacitors vs. other models that use the Tecumseh type compressors and smaller Run Capacitors.

...

Documentation I have seen indicates:

xxxx-6xx has Panasonic compressors
xxxx-7xx has Sanyo compressors
xxxx-8xx has Tecumseh compressors

[imnprsd]

Has anyone replaced their compressor? If so, where can we buy one; and what other details can you share?

Same goes for replacing the compressor "Overload Device" and "Solenoid Coil". I do not know what the part number to ask for and Coleman-Mach is not responding to email requests or taking phone calls.

[SoCo40]

Good morning imnprsd,

I would like to start with a don't get discouraged and its doable. Had one side get a rust hole in the compressor last fall and locked up on mine. One thing I ran into is our motor homes with a basement unit, are a hybrid. Around me in Southern IL. service shops didn't want to work on them because it was a so called residential unit. A/C service shops didn't want to because it was a RV. I found a smaller A/C shop that was willing to do the job. I pulled the unit out on pallets in about 1 1/2 hours. That included WD 40 and a wire brush on all bolts involved. Mainly the front lowering bolts.
My A/C guy and I found the leak. Covid made finding a compressor difficult but we finally found one. He added service ports on both sides of both compressors. They are independent of each other.
While all this was going on I found a unit at a salvage yard (Visone). Parts to fix my unit and other unit arrived same time. Visone's was a great looking unit so I used it.
Hardest thing was screws holding duct work on. Hard to get to on one side and top. 90 deg phillips screw driver and a short one will be handy. Went back with all SS for the next service.

Hope this helps and good luck!!

[SoCo40]

Visone was a lot of help and have a large selection.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by SoCo40

Good morning imnprsd,

I would like to start with a don't get discouraged and its doable. Had one side get a rust hole in the compressor last fall and locked up on mine. One thing I ran into is our motor homes with a basement unit, are a hybrid. Around me in Southern IL. service shops didn't want to work on them because it was a so called residential unit. A/C service shops didn't want to because it was a RV. I found a smaller A/C shop that was willing to do the job. I pulled the unit out on pallets in about 1 1/2 hours. That included WD 40 and a wire brush on all bolts involved. Mainly the front lowering bolts.
My A/C guy and I found the leak. Covid made finding a compressor difficult but we finally found one. He added service ports on both sides of both compressors. They are independent of each other.
While all this was going on I found a unit at a salvage yard (Visone). Parts to fix my unit and other unit arrived same time. Visone's was a great looking unit so I used it.
Hardest thing was screws holding duct work on. Hard to get to on one side and top. 90 deg phillips screw driver and a short one will be handy. Went back with all SS for the next service.

Hope this helps and good luck!!

How much did it cost, service and parts?

[Journey cat]

I cant put a time on the job because I spent a lot of time cleaning the unit and changing the pesky screws on the bottom of the unit , Changing a rusted tubing clamp . And using a SS clamp , now . And I milked the job only putting an hour or so in it at a time . As I knew i could not go forward due to availability of parts . All in all , I believe it was apart about a month - or so , because of the Holidays .

The first picture in this tread , you can see the smaller compartment above the indoor blower . In it one can easily change , Compressor Rum Caps , Blower Start Caps , Relays . Also its easy to remove the lower panel and change the indoor motor Run cap . The only one hard to do without removing the unit is the Out door Run Cap . And motor or compressors .