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Old 12-31-2019, 04:29 PM   #1
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Can someone explain this to me please

I just purchased a 2004 Itasca 33V and it has a toggle switch on the dash that is for rear heater Hi Low. I have no clue what it is about except that it is suppose to heat the rear bedroom. My question is HOW and where does the heat come out at. When I switch from hi to low I hear nothing. Should there be a fan or something?

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Old 12-31-2019, 05:31 PM   #2
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Winnebago has an option that has plumbing to route the engine coolant to the rear of the RV to a small radiator and fan to warm the rear of the RV. That switch probably turns on/off the fan. Of course the heating only happens when the engine is warm/hot.
This option may also be routed to the water heater as well.
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Old 12-31-2019, 05:46 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Alan Mayhew View Post
I just purchased a 2004 Itasca 33V and it has a toggle switch on the dash that is for rear heater Hi Low. I have no clue what it is about except that it is suppose to heat the rear bedroom. My question is HOW and where does the heat come out at. When I switch from hi to low I hear nothing. Should there be a fan or something?

thanks
alan
I don't know that unit but might guess that it would not be a big fan and quite possible it won't be heard from near the front. Perhaps crawling/ducking around the rear and looking carefully for heat vents that are not used by the furnace will let you hear it better?
Theory??? If one had a meter to read the milliamp drawn when the switch is off and then turned it on, one might see it draw more power and let you know you've turned on another fan? Not much help to locate it but at least tell you had something to look for in your spare time!
If it is as described by al1florida, it is an option I had on one RV and always wished for on others. Hard to keep the rear warmed to a good temp using only the dash heat but really nice to have the back end pre-heated when we stopped.
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Old 12-31-2019, 05:50 PM   #4
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We owned a 94 Sunrise for a couple of decades. That switch turned on a blower fan that did a good job of heating the bedroom, using vehicle hot water. Hot air came out through vents under the bed.

Of course, like the vehicle heater (which is on the same system), it was useful only when the engine was running. In ours, the hot engine water circulating through stuff also heated the hot water tank, so we had hot water for bathing after shutdown.
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:20 PM   #5
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This writeup ought to answer all your questions

(It's behind the water heater. It blows into the floor ducts. Blowers fail often.)
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Old 01-03-2020, 07:38 AM   #6
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Well I checked the 15 amp fuse and it was blown. I replaced it and as soon as I turned the cabin heat on it blew. Now the stair alarm is also run through the same fuse. It appears that a new set of stairs are on this newly purchased RV. So wondering if maybe they wired the alarm wrong and it is causing the fuse to blow. I know that this is a very slim chance but maybe. So does anyone have the wiring diagram of the stair alarm system?

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Old 01-03-2020, 09:18 AM   #7
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I don't have a stair alarm. The write up mentions a "stair alarm" fuse. Was it an Itasca only thing? I need to look at a wiring diagram or two....
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Old 01-03-2020, 09:23 AM   #8
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that is what is written under the fuse. It is labeled stair alarm although it also works the house heater blower motor.
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Old 01-03-2020, 12:44 PM   #9
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Should be able to get wiring diagram from Winn. they have them on their web site.
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Old 01-03-2020, 07:08 PM   #10
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Should be able to get wiring diagram from Winn. they have them on their web site.
Just tried looking and find things have changed or are not working. There is a "rumor" going round that they have decided not to provide the wiring any longer for older models. Supposed to be a cost cutting measure as the story is told???
So things get harder! Not impossible but harder, for sure as we will have to do far more guessing without drawings to lead us.
So how's the feeling about doing some testing and is a meter on hand? About all you can really say is that something is pulling too much current on this circuit, so the next step is to sort out whether it is the step, the fan or some of the wiring to one or the other. Since the step is newish and easy to get to, it is where I would start. Perhaps somebody has changed the step and it still didn't work, so they traded it in?
My move would be to go to the step as easier to access, pull the wiring off and look the step for a short. Possible that a short there kills the fuse/breaker to feed both. If I see a short on the step portion, I would leave it off the wiring and power the circuit back up to see if it still blows. Possible to get lucky and find the step has something minor like a relay, etc.
If not you will need to go further and test the fan the same and the wiring until you find where the short is that is drawing too much current.
May be the fan or possible any of the wiring.
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Old 01-03-2020, 10:28 PM   #11
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Just tried looking and find things have changed or are not working. There is a "rumor" going round that they have decided not to provide the wiring any longer for older models. Supposed to be a cost cutting measure as the story is told???
Is this the page you were looking for but thought it had been removed for cost cutting?
Table of Contents
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Old 01-04-2020, 08:15 AM   #12
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Is this the page you were looking for but thought it had been removed for cost cutting?
Table of Contents
yes, that seems what I was looking for but it doesn't come up on the link that I had been using. How do you access this info?
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Old 01-04-2020, 08:24 AM   #13
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yes, that seems what I was looking for but it doesn't come up on the link that I had been using. How do you access this info?
Www.winnebagoind.com
Click on “Owners Resources”
Click on “Service”
Scroll down below the Dealer Locator
Click on “Wiring Diagram”
Choose the Model Year
Chose your model
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Old 01-04-2020, 08:28 AM   #14
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not working
thanks
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Old 01-04-2020, 08:31 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
Www.winnebagoind.com
Click on “Owners Resources”
Click on “Service”
Scroll down below the Dealer Locator
Click on “Wiring Diagram”
Choose the Model Year
Chose your model
Okay, I see it there. Perhaps simply a change in the website and giving it in a different path? The path I had been using simply goes nowhere as if disconnected. That's why I stated the idea as "rumor" , not fact, until I got more info. Thanks for the link.

EDIT! On the other hand---- I now find it not working the same as my other link!! ???? Currently get to the place to break out a specific year from the group like 2000-2010 and can break it down to 2004 but go nowhere from that point on plumbing and electrical??
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Old 01-04-2020, 09:14 AM   #16
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The diagram and website is working for me on Firefox. I don't know what problem you folks are having.
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Old 01-04-2020, 09:17 AM   #17
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Currently get to the place to break out a specific year from the group like 2000-2010 and can break it down to 2004 but go nowhere from that point on plumbing and electrical??
Try this - get to the year link and right click on it with your mouse. Choose Open in a New Window.

It seems that the link sometimes opens correctly and sometimes needs the right click. I've run into this on a few other websites recently. Not sure what's going one with that.

A Google search shows a number of reports in the past 3 weeks with folks seeing this issue on multiple websites. Supposedly a Firefox issue. Some say an update to FF 70.01 fixes the issue. I haven't tested it. In every case where I had this issue on other websites I was able to right click and open in a new window without issue.
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Old 01-04-2020, 04:08 PM   #18
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Does seem to be some form of glitch as I was able to find the drawing on first try after using your link but never on any later tries. I will try looking around for some other route as you suggest. Since I was getting no result so often and on some many different model/year combo, I was leaning toward it no longer be available.
Will give it some testing.

EDIT:
After some playing, I get a different answer--at least twice!
On going to the "service" and then drilling down to "wiring", I can get a new tab with right click but it brings up a "Eurovan" tab????
When right clicking through that tab, I can get to the wiring diagram which is what we want. Not at all sure where the "Eurovan" fits into the search for 2004 Itasca????
Possible we are looking at a several weeks long change in the website and it might get worked out over time?
For right now, it seems to work if we try right clicking at any time we don't get the results we might expect. I am currently able to see drawings that were not coming up by the more logical clicking. I also find the same when looking for the plumbing info.
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Old 01-08-2020, 05:39 PM   #19
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Tim:

Thanks a million for posting that link. While I haveen't gone into mine in my newly acquired 1997 Adventurer 34RQ, I know of it and it doesn't seem to be working. This'll help enormously!!!

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Old 01-08-2020, 05:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tderonne View Post
This writeup ought to answer all your questions

(It's behind the water heater. It blows into the floor ducts. Blowers fail often.)
This is probably the best source of information that you will read.
I had this SAME issue with my unit.
The standard failure mode for the coach heater is the 'birdcage' fan moving on the shaft resulting in the fan hitting the housing. This prevents the fan from rotating, causes an instant increase in the level of amps being pulled which results in the circuit being overloaded and this will cause the fuse to blow.
(Just like its supposed to)

I had to replace my coach heater unit shortly after I bought my unit. A rather extensive job in my unit, but it was worth it. Followed the above link for the complete procedure.

The other failure mode is the resistor going bad. Either the Hi or Lo fan won't work, but the fuse won't blow. Power IS being sent to the fan but the resistor won't complete the selected speed circuit to activate the fan motor.
This also requires getting to the heater housing so the resistor can be replaced.

Just for FYI.....
The Coach Heater unit pushes heated air from the heat exchanger through the same ductwork (in the floor) that is used by the Propane Heater. To allow this to work properly, the Blend door form the coach heater will open (in the direction of the air flow) and push air throughout the duct system. What is neat about this design is that the Blend door for the propane heater is "forced closed" during use of the Coach Heater. Conversely, the Blend Door for the Coach Heater is "forced closed " when the source or air is from the Propane Heater. Simple engineering and it works well.

Let us know how you resolve your issue.
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