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Old 12-21-2010, 12:55 AM   #81
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I like that idea of putting one in now as backup...good thinking to get ahead of it! I think I will look into this since we are full timers.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:56 AM   #82
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I just had my basement air replaced! Thank goodness for the extended warranty - all told it was about $3600. Mine is the new R-410 unit. It's a little premature to say it works great, but I do notice more airflow from the ceiling vents. The heat pump side, so far, works great. It's too cool to know if the AC will work as well. Fortunately, it came with a 2 year parts and 1 year labor warranty. We'll know for sure come June or July.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:36 AM   #83
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We have an Ultimate , It was to be our last coach ; We built a gerage for it;; 12' 6" door oops;; With the roof air it exceeds the door height; oops; Does any know wher I can buy a compressor from; For a backup;; After reading the posts.{ I think} {you should} {Once I read} I ask where Can I buy a compressor from..???
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:08 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpasekof View Post
I just had my basement air replaced! Thank goodness for the extended warranty - all told it was about $3600. Mine is the new R-410 unit. It's a little premature to say it works great, but I do notice more airflow from the ceiling vents. The heat pump side, so far, works great. It's too cool to know if the AC will work as well. Fortunately, it came with a 2 year parts and 1 year labor warranty. We'll know for sure come June or July.
Where did you have the work done...Thanks
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:17 AM   #85
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That's an interesting question and another twist to this story:
Many of us have extended 5 year warranties. How will those companies handle this.
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:25 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by edgray View Post
WendellG: that is essentially correct, however EPA did not make WBGO do anything. Rather, EPA mandated a change in the type of Freon that A/C manufacturers can use, and that caused RVP to redesign their basement units.

The delay in getting the new design approved and certified, combined with the space requirements for the additional equipment required for the new SCR anti-pollution treatment ( DEF ) for all the diesel engines used by WBGO / FCCC resulted in WBGO putting the A/C on the rooof for the 2011 models. Now that RVP has a "new design" basement unit available, it remains to be seen if coach builders will use them again.
Ed
I agree with these facts and would add that modifying the design of the HVAC would compromise more than the looks, heigth and airflow mentioned earlier.
Just yesterday while operating on 20 amps (yes 20amps, 50 amp to extention cord!) I noticed the Winnebago system automatically switching from heatpump to propane when the electric water heater cycled in, avoiding exceeding the 20 amp limit I had set. Very nicely integrated!
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:40 AM   #87
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I believe that, per code, a 20 amp circuit should be run at no more than 80% for extended periods, that would be 16 amps. Try to tell that to the load management system...
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:10 PM   #88
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Perhaps a free standing room air inside coach

I am wondering since we have a nice sized extra refrigerator inside the coach of our Suncruiser next to the door where the reclining chair was....if it would't work to buy a nice size standing air conditioner/heat exchanger like you might get for a house and send the drain down through that vent that goes into the water heater area and out the bottom of the coach. Why go up on the roof with all that weight if you have room.

This is just a wild thought but you might find that it could recirculate inside air and keep things cooler without having to use warm outside air at all. I'm of course not an HVAC guy but is this feasible?

If you could do it to a good sized bedroom, why not a coach. There is a window right there also if you must make the sacrifice and use it.

I please total ignorance on this one but be damned if I'm going to let this one beat me.
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Old 12-24-2010, 04:10 PM   #89
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My unit (#1 compressor) also went out in Aug. Had it at two seperate dealers and neither could fix it other than bypass it so it would work on the #2 compressor. We used it in Aug when temps were in the 90's and it kept the coach at about 10 degrees less than the outside air. Have since found a local RV air conditioner repair facility. Replacement compressor is estimated to cost about $700 - $800 and new unit with the 410 is estimated at $3800 to $4000. Will get it to them in a couple of months for repair. Trying to decide whether to bite the bullet and replace it, or just replace the compressor. 2nd party warranty will only pay $700 as it can be repaired.

As an aside, I believe low voltage campgrounds probably contributed to the failure and as a result have bought an autoformer to use with the SureGuard surge protecter. Low voltages are lethal to compressors and other motors.

Just my 2 cents.

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Old 12-25-2010, 01:45 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by CJ7ole View Post
I believe that, per code, a 20 amp circuit should be run at no more than 80% for extended periods, that would be 16 amps. Try to tell that to the load management system...
As far as I can determine the power manaqgement does what the owners manual clams in that it does not exceed the limits of the circuit to which it is connected. I monitors the fan speed, second compressor, refrigerator and electric water heater. When it is set to 20 amps it may momentarily go to 20 amps such as when a single compressor starts. I have never noticed it above about 14A on a continuous basis.

The system cannot tell 120V 30A from 120V 20A so it depends on the user to make the selection to 20A if appropriate.
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:40 AM   #91
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I have blown my 20 amp house circuit running the a/c with the selector definitely set at 20 amps and the meter showing 21 or more amps for an extended period of time. Took it in for service and the service tech tried to convince me it was running ok because it would go no higher than 20 amps for them.
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:38 PM   #92
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You guys are scaring me. I have a '96, no slides, and have NEVER had a problem with my basement a/c. All kinds with the engine one, tho: temp. control lever, fan motor (lost defroster with this one), ~~lately, engine pulley on a/c belt disintegrated; probably more, can't remember. 4 DAYS/3 NIGHTS in Aug. heat in Okla. City, OK, industrial area, waiting for parts! Fun!
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Old 12-30-2010, 04:23 PM   #93
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We have two pretty good sized slides and we think that the slides contribute to some higher inside temperatures. The side walls or end walls seem to get pretty hot. Hotter than the other walls so they must not be insulated well enough. The reason that we added a roof-top unit is that we like it really cool. DW said that if the coach was not cool enough in the summer she did not want to camp. Yep, we are energy wasters, but it is nice to be cool inside when it is over one hundred outside. We can keep it at or below 75 even on really hot sunny days now. No awnings out and no shades on the windows. We didn't want to live in a cave with everything closed up. Its a shame that the insulation isn't working well enough, but the walls would have to be thicker to accommodate more insulation and then the price of the coach might not be competitive, etc. As to obtaining replacement parts for the basement air, I don't think that will be a big problem from what I have read about replacing compressors, etc. On a side note, the Winnie dealer that I use limits certain types of service on coaches that are more than 10 years old. I use this particular dealer because they have a good reputation and I have found them to be able to provide good service and go out of their way to please customers. Maybe I got a little off topic here, but my answer to buying a coach with basement air would be "go for it if that is the coach you like". Happy travels, Joe
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:59 PM   #94
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HVAC

I need to go off topic a bit for a question. I have a 2000 Winne Adventurer 35U. I was doing some work out in the RV and decided to turn on the furnace (TrueAir) on electric setting. I'm plugged in to the house and 30 amp shows on the main panel. The furnace cut in and blew good heat out of the bedroom floor registers but not out of the mid cabin or front. Is there something I should be setting different? This is the first time I have turned on the furnace. I could use some help/info from you experienced people.
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:01 AM   #95
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Sounds like to me the propane heat came on. To get elec heat set your thermostat NO MORE THAN 3 degrees above current temp. Also if it's below or at 30 degrees outside elec won't work it will switch to gas. If elec heat is working air will come out roof vents. After it shuts off, you can set at 3 degrees higher and do it again-----Good Luck
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:35 AM   #96
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I agree with the prior poster. The heat pump, whether heat or A/C, distributes air through the ceiling vents. The propane furnace distributes heat through the floor vents. My experience is that I get great air movement through the ceiling vents clear to the front but poor air movement through the floor vents - especially at the front.
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:42 AM   #97
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Are you asking why there was no heat coming out of the front floor registers? If so, do you maybe have 2 furnaces like I do? There is a separate thermostat for each when it comes to "gas heat".

My main 'stat works heat pumps and front/mid cabin gas heat floor vents. I have a 'stat in the bedroom that only feeds the bedroom vents.
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:17 AM   #98
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Agree with Doug, I don't get enough volume out of frt floor vents. It's been that way for the six years I've had this M/H but we try not to go in cold weather anyway-haha. We love the elec heat to knock the chill off though. Hope you have found your trouble---Good Luck!!!
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:34 AM   #99
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I'm plugged in to the house and 30 amp shows on the main panel.
Were you plugged into a 120 volt 30 amp house circuit? If not, you need to manually set the control panel to recognize that you are plugged into a 20 amp circuit, it has no way of knowing. Although in my experience, you probably would have blown a 20 amp house circuit by now. It is just that most folks don't go to the bother of installing a dedicated 30 amp circuit. And that is a 120 volt circuit, not a 220 volt (dryer) circuit.
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:50 AM   #100
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Heating

Thanks a lot everyone. Needing heat is something we have to live with in Canada in the winter. LOL
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