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Old 02-04-2021, 08:06 AM   #21
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Here is a map showing their locations.

https://www.abc-companies.com/locations

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:04 AM   #22
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Ok, so you mean the bolts are actually under the vehicle? I'll have to look. I'm not home today so I'll check tomorrow. I'll also try to get better pictures to post here.

Funny about the signature not showing up on my posts. I can see it on my end. I also don't use apps on my phone so that means its not showing up from posts made on my laptop. I'm on my phone now but I'm hours from the campground. I'm not using an app now either. Is the signature on this post, by chance?
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:04 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooperhawk View Post
Wow! This discussion has gotten heated.
...
I agree, please “lower the temperature” on this AC repair thread. Help or choose not to, but please keep posts respectful and civil.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:06 AM   #24
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Ok, thanks. I'll check it out.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:09 AM   #25
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Not on my end.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:16 AM   #26
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That's weird. I wonder why. I'll try to reset it when I get back home. Thanks for letting me know.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:20 AM   #27
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Something funny here. Your last post did not have it, but the previous one did.
Signature I mean.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:22 AM   #28
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Cooperhawk - thanks for the link. Unfortunately I'm in NC and they don't have any locations in the state. Would have been great if they did. I'll see if I can find something similar tomorrow when I'm home and can use my computer.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:23 AM   #29
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Poltergeists. Hahaha
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Old 02-04-2021, 01:22 PM   #30
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When meeting a new subject like a basement AC, I like to look at the parts to see if there are hints there that I might pick up.
On your Rv, this appears to be the older style drawings but the best we can get, so we make do, right?
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...6/6ikr40fd.pdf

Page 213 seems it might show a panel to remove to access the insides? Is part number 7 the same as we see in your picture at the the sheet metal at the lower left side?
Then is 16 being the compressor, 17 and 18 might be the noise makers if they are bad?

Just guessing without having seen one but perhaps access is from the front panel and remove the parts from top without removing whole unit??
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Old 02-04-2021, 07:43 PM   #31
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Hi Morich -

Yes, Diagram Part 7 is on my units lower left front in the photo I posted. That panel is in front of the blower motor... at least I think that's the blower motor. Its' the one with the numbers 22, 23, 24, etc in the bottom left of the diagram.

The capacitors are above that motor covered by the smaller steel plate in my picture.

I'm going to go out there tomorrow and take some pictures that will explain it better. Hold you thoughts!
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Old 02-04-2021, 07:56 PM   #32
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Except from the capaciters and the control board there is nothing that can be serviced until the unit is lowered and slid out and the ac panels removed for servicing based on personal experience
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Old 02-04-2021, 07:59 PM   #33
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Hi neub. That's exactly my point. That's why I came here asking if anybody knew how to get my particular unit out so it could be serviced. I'm going to take some pictures and post them tomorrow. Maybe it will help clarify the confusion about how to try and get it out.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:47 PM   #34
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How come your 30 year experienced HVAC tech told you you have low R22 when he can't connect a pressure gauge?

And how come you can't figure out how to remove your AC at this point?

Tell us more about these loud noises and when they occur? Do you only get these noises when running the heat pump and/or are your trying to run your AC and then these noises appear?

How hot is it outside where you are operating your basement AC?

Have you verified you have both L1 and L2 power at your control board?

Maybe one of your AC circuit breaker is tripped? ...Did you checked that first?

All these are relevant questions, but you probably know that? ...Can't wait to find out what your AC problems are? ...Because, every time one forum member has a problem we all want to know how you fixed it? It's called "good will."
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Old 02-05-2021, 08:09 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Animalangel View Post
Poltergeists. Hahaha
It may be late to start an argument that is totally off the main idea but I find when I look at the forum on my android, I do NOT get the info at the bottom on make and model but DO when I look in on a PC!!!!

Not poltergeists but just the small stuff we miss out on when using a pretty lame system to communicate???

We need to do what we gotta do and forget getting upset with the small stuff!

It may be as "simple" as something added underneath to hold the unit up and now is somewhere it can't be spotted. Maybe some shims that were thought to make it more solid or to quiet some part?
That sort of thing can throw a really experienced guy off as well as a rookie because it may not be the normal thing.
How to find it?
That is still the big question, so I have to go with the guy on scene maybe doing the best the can and keep looking.
When it gets to sliding under the door, it may be needed to pull the slide in but if you can't get it that far, there's still a problem.
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Old 02-05-2021, 08:46 AM   #36
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I will put in one more opinion. Turn just the fan on and see if you still get the noise and vibration. If you do it is not low on Freon, but the bearing in the blower needs replaced. People on here have replaced them in the past. But the unit still needs to come out to replace it. Looking forward to the solution.
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Old 02-05-2021, 09:30 AM   #37
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To the best of my knowledge, the Coleman Mach basement AC/Heatpump units are all sealed systems. There is no provision for adding freon as they sit. Some have had ports installed as part of a major repair (new piping, ports etc) but this is not the way they come from the factory.
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Old 02-05-2021, 02:37 PM   #38
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OK, folks. I have a bunch of pictures to show you.

MIKF - great idea to check the fan. Fan does NOT cause that rattle vibration but I do hear a low humming sound which is likely normal. Hadn't tried that yet.

I can't believe what I'm seeing but considering all the other weird stuff a previous owner did in here (not professionally, I might add) this seems par for the course if I'm correct then it is, by far, the absolute worst because it means the unit really cannot be removed at all for service without ripping up the bedroom; that is, removing the bed, the stairs and completely opening up the floor. It appears to be an oversized unit. I could very well be wrong but I'll post all the pictures this forum allows and let you tell me what you think.

Here we go (edit - it only let me post 10 so I picked the ones that I think were most self explanatory with my edited descriptions - if more are needed I can make another post):

One thing to note - look at the black Coleman tag on the top left of the unit in the first two pictures. In the first picture it appears at the top of the unit but in the second picture you can clearly see there is space above it. The compartment door is NOT blocking the opening but the steel beam the door is attached to, IS.
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Old 02-05-2021, 03:21 PM   #39
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Good Deal! I like folks who try to tell the whole story!
I'm no help on having dealt with this , so just thinking to send some info that might help.

This info comes from the parts catalog here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...6/6ikr40fd.pdf

I see there were four different units put in your Rv as options and different dates.
Can you see a label/ ID on your unit to see what model it is as a way to verify it is orig. or might be replaced?
If on a PC, try clicking the pic to get a better view but the first is the list of models of furnace if you can match it up?

Second and third pictures show that you have two sets of fan parts, so listening to fans, one may need to be aware of which fan is running at different times? Then you can get into trying to describe what type of sound it is making???
Screaming like a bad bearing, which get worse as it runs longer or banging like something loose and flopping around? These are squirrel cage fans and the fan body can get loose on the shaft, slide just enough to touch the edge and make all kinds of noise.

I drew the blue line with the "dogleg" in it to help sort how the parts are actually in a line but they drew the exploded view as if they were not!

Hunting and pecking but not seeing the real answer to how to get it out!!
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Old 02-05-2021, 03:34 PM   #40
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OK, this may apply or not. On our unit that metal beam wasn't square tubing like yours, it was sheet metal and it rusted out, so I had it replaced. The difference is I had mine bolted in and yours looks welded.
Is it possible that someone welded that beam in? If so you may need to cut it out and then replace it when done.
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