2003 Winnebago Journey DL when I have the thermostat on or off after the unit stops heat or cooling it later kicks in when neither is needed. It makes a humming sound no ac or heat but it's like running shoots amp meter up by 22. I have to go turn off the breaker. Anyone know what's causing it to operate when no heat or ac is called for. It does it for very short period when in heat mode but seems to keep humming on ac mode even when not putting out cold air.
Sorry but this communications stuff is harder when we just read things and your post leaves me some doubt, so I need to question a bit!
when I have the thermostat on or off after the unit stops heat or cooling it later kicks in when neither is needed.
By this, do you mean the thermostat is turned to "off" or just that it has shut down due to reaching the set temp? Or does it mean it is coming on again when the inside temp doesn't seem to call for more heat or cool? Like the temp sensing is not right?
The difference is running when the thermostat is turned to off, likely means a problem with the thermostat switch, etc. But a noticeable hum when trying to restart when the thermostat calls for another cycle of heating or cooling may mean a bad start capacitor.
More info on what is happening will be helpful as there is a definite chain of events that have to happen before we get heat or cool.
Are you familiar with how things normally go on heating, so that you can tell us that the blower is coming on and the fire is lighting in the correct order?
2015 Winnebago Vista 31KE on 2014 chassis
I'm guessing the "humming noise" is coming from the basement AC and not the thermostat.
I'm guessing your 22A draw signals the thermostat is working to turn "on" your stage 1 compressor and fire-up your blower motor.
I'm guessing if your blower motor is humming, because the motor cannot turn. Why the motor cannot turn is the question?
A) Bad Start and/or Run Capacitors ...you can check from outside your coach.
B) Frozen motor bearing.
C) Bad motor winding.
WHERE TO BEGIN
I'm guessing you can turn off your AC... then remove the air filter element... then reach in and turn the blower wheel/cage with your hand... and restart your AC.
I'm guessing if you can't spin the blower cage that would signal a frozen bearing on the shaft motor. This I have read about and there are several good threads on how to perform maintenance, but you need a floor jack to remove the Basement AC from it's frame mounts.
...First, I would check to see if your Start and/or Run capacitors are bad?
This I would check after you verify your blower wheel will spin. Just be sure you know how to short the capacitor before you handle it... and then test it! ...If they have never been replaced, it's a good chance this is your problem.
Capacitors run in the $15-$25 range each and you have 2 compressor start capacitors and 2 fan motor run capacitors. (I think this is correct?)
Since you can't start your compressor, I'm guessing you just need to replace your two 45uF start capacitors, which is a $30 fix if you are lucky, plus labor if you don't know how to do this. ...However, if you watch a YouTube video you can probably figure it out.
See attached .pdf for a manual on my 2-Ton Coleman Mach Basement AC which I think will be very similar to your basement AC.
Note: I'm not an AC tech, but these are the things I would check before I called one.
Stay tuned, and I'm sure someone with more AC tech experience will give you better and more complete information.
Good luck. Keep us posted.
2004 Itasca Horizon ISK-40AD, 350HP Cummins 8.3L
115K miles and the best of 3 Diesels I have owned thus far!