2529RG Propane Furnace Issue

[Morich]

There may be someconfusion creeping in here as we deal with things we are not really familiar with using.

There are furnaces which use propane to heat, there are Air conditioners which use electrictity to cool. These are both often connected to controls on a thermostat on the wall where we select whther we want heat or cool by moving a switch, but they are seperate units, often heat down low and air on the roof, etc.

But there are also different arrangements for the heat and coolingcalled heat pumps. A heat pump can do several thing, heat by using electricity to "run the compressor" backwards, for ease of description to get heat, or run it "forward" to get cooling.

That's a really sloppy, loose way to desscribe things but easier for the novice to understand. But we can get even more things that are hard to understand if we look at the different ways heat pumps and air conditioners can be built and used.

The common rooftop AC unit can also have heat coils built in and those coils use electricity to put out some heat if we set the thermostat to do that!
Heat pumps can also put out heat, even after the outside temp gets too low for the normal, running backwards, operation to work. They can have electric coils to heat or use propane!

That makes it really critical to know what we each have and what we can expect as what one has may not be anything at all like the next has.

[Hsjtools]

I purchased my 2529RG TT in February. The first thing I noticed was that there was no heat blowing into the cabin. It all blew into the basement. I closed off the duct in the basement with some silver heat tape. Then went into the duct under the bench and using the heat tape made a baffle to direct air up to that duct. Then, same in the bathroom duct and lastly, using cardboard and heat tape, directed the remaining air up thru the bedroom duct. Can't get to the one under the pantry, but now a lot of air is coming out there. Next, the cold air return does try to return under the cabin doors, under the sink. I removed the panel and installed a piece of decorative grate, that I got at HD. Now when using the furnace, I keep the cabinet doors open. One way I can tell this is helping is, I to hold my hand in front of the outside heater exhaust. Before I could only get my hand within 2 feet of the exhaust. Now I can get it within about 8 inches.

Also, Domectic thermostats are known for not being accurate. Mine is 5 degrees off. I have heard of them being 16 off.

A service tech at the local dealership said they usually do this before they sell the trailers.

[Sentry]

Originally Posted by No1Hunter

I’m also going to vacuum up all the sawdust and other crap that was left behind under there and under the heater!!!

Sadly, they have no standards of cleaning up after the put them together.

[BobC]

I don't have anything to contribute other than to compliment No1Hunter for staying engaged step by step, letting the posters know what he's experiencing as he works to sort things out. Often, we feel like we're giving advice in a vacuum. Not only does it help us in knowing what to advise next but it helps future readers who may be researching a similar problem.

[No1Hunter]

Also, Domectic thermostats are known for not being accurate. Mine is 5 degrees off. I have heard of them being 16 off.

Has anyone replaced their Domectic or other brand thermostat?

FYI - I haven't got to working on the TT. Wife has me doing some honey-do's.

I do like the grate idea. Before I can do anything like that, I have to fit the right side attachment piece. I believe they used one staple in it as it folds back and forth. That repair is going to be fun considering the water heater is right up next to it.

[No1Hunter]

I don't have anything to contribute other than to compliment No1Hunter for staying engaged step by step,

Thanks. Yes, I feel it is important to give people who are giving advice feedback and a resolution if obtained. It may help others in the future.

[Morich]

Has anybody changed the thermostat?

YES! One of the best moves we make on any new to us RV is getting aways from the most common type as they are so prone to letting the temp floatway to far one way or the other before kicking the heat or cooling on. And the change can often be quite simple, but that depends on how many functions your current one has. More functions like different fan speeds amy make the change moredifficult and it takes a bit of looking to choose the right way to go.

Step one in the study, is where you likely get bad information stating that it won't work to change to a house style digital! I often find folks who tell me it won't work because they know just enough to be dangerous and don't look further!
Many home thermostat do use 24 volts from a transformer somewhere in the house and those WON"T work well for this purpose as we don't always have AC power.

So go a step further and look for a stat that operates using onboard batteries for the control function! The thermostat is a switch which reacts to temp changes, so if you want to go digital for the better temp control, using small AA bateries, etc for the control function and letting it run the furnace, AC, fan, the same as before can make the change pretty simple.

With the wave of changes to use internet connected thermostats, I have picked my digitals off Craigslist from all those totally good which are not Smart connected as that is not needed/wanted for our use.

I no longer have the RV and have no idea of exactly which I last used but you may have different needs and functions, so my choice would not fit but just start with looking for battery powered which have the functions, like heat and cool, etc that you want to keep and then let that narrow down the search.

Honeywell is about all I remember of what I used.
This is one which may fit well for the smaller, less complex needs in smaller RV:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywel...111B/203539510

One of these wired to control an electric space heater can also make the temp much more stable!

[creativepart]

Go to www.microair.net and see their new EasyTouch RV thermostats. There is a section of the website to determine if they make one for your RV.

Here's the link:

https://www.microair.net/products/ea...-rv-thermostat

I got one last year and it works great. It operates both the roof A/C/Heat Pump and the gas furnace.

It is completely programmable and it lets you operate your HVAC systems via their phone and table app. And this feature works via both Bluetooth and Wifi.

It's as simple as plugging in the new T-State and doing a little bit of easy setup.

[No1Hunter]

Ok, I was able to get back on my issue this morning after getting hit with a thunderstorm that dropped a 1/2" of rain in an hour (a lot for here in North Central WA).

The inside temp of the trailer was 55 degrees. I turned on the heat, setting the thermostat to 65 degrees and after a short delay, the fan came on. Soon, there was a click and the burner fired up. It ran for about 2 minutes and shut down with the fan turning off after a minute or two. Inside temperature, 57 degrees based upon my digital thermometer.

So, I left the heater on for 30 minutes, keeping the door closed. I looked through the window at my thermometer and it was still 57 degrees inside. The burner came on, ran for approximately 60 seconds. Still 57 degrees inside. This is with the panel off and the cabinet doors open. So, there is no air return restriction.

Am I wrong in thinking the burner should stay on until the interior temperature reaches the temp the thermostat is set at?

[creativepart]

You have some problem. That's not normal operation. I'd call that "short cycling." When mine did this I took it into a Suburban authorized repair facility (which happened to be my usual repair shop) and they said it was a bad control board and they replaced the board and all is well.

Now, I'm not saying that is your problem too and that you need a new control board. I'm just saying what problem mine turned out to be.

As I said, it can be the sail switch, which is very common - look it up, it can be the gas valve, it can be the igniter/flame sensor, it can be the circuit board or probably any number of other things.

I have a great local repair shop that I use for ALL repairs. I never and do mean never go to a Winnebago dealer or any other dealer because of all the delays. If you can find a good dealer that makes an appointment, works on the RV immediately when you drop it off, knows what they are doing and strives to get the RV back to you ASAP then a dealer would be OK. It's just that too many make an appt 1-month out, let the RV sit for another month before doing any work and then waits another month for parts and repairs to take place. Why they think a 3-month repair time is acceptable I have no idea.

PS. Curious about one thing - why, when trying to test the heater, did you only set it at 65 degrees. That seems kind of close to the 57 degrees inside the RV. When I'm testing my heater I set it for 80 degrees. That way when it short cycles I know it's not just a slightly miscalculated thermostat. It probably wouldn't make any difference but it seems like a higher temp is more of a definitive test.

[Morich]

Correct.
The order should be:
Thermostat calls for heat
The fan comes on and runs for a short time to verify airflow at the sail switch
The gas valve opens and igniter lights the fire which runs until thermostat closes and shuts down fire.
Fan runs until the remaining heat is out of the furnace. Safety idea!

But there are a number of safety button thermostats along the route that shut things down if something is wrong and the metel, etc in the furnace begins toget too hot. Other things like carcked boards, loose wires can also get in the way but if it does the same thing a number of times the same, I lean toward one of the small thermostats opening too soon.

They come in lots of different shapes but if you can see enough of this furnace, you may spot one.
This might be what to look for:
https://www.google.com/search?q=butt...hrome&ie=UTF-8

Then as a way to test if not better set up, one can run a jumper wire from one lug to the other to make sure it is not opening too soon and watch if it works right!
Don't wander off while doing this and watch for any signs of it getting too hot as you ARE wiring around a safety item and for sure don't run it this way while sleeping!

I really like having the drawing and going through each step and testing but there are times when we have to make due with what we have?

[No1Hunter]

Ok, it has been an hour. I went out, and the heater was not running. The interior temperature is 58.1 degrees. At this point, I turned off the heater. After an hour, it would appear something is wrong.

It is under warranty but my dealer is over a 100 miles away and as you said above, I really don't want it sitting around for months over the summer.

[No1Hunter]

PS. Curious about one thing - why, when trying to test the heater, did you only set it at 65 degrees. That seems kind of close to the 57 degrees inside the RV. When I'm testing my heater I set it for 80 degrees. That way when it short cycles I know it's not just a slightly miscalculated thermostat. It probably wouldn't make any difference but it seems like a higher temp is more of a definitive test.

I figured a 10 degree spread should be fine (started at 55 degrees) and when I initially tested it a couple of days ago, I did set the thermostat to 79 degrees with the same results.

[Sentry]

https://youtu.be/F_dep_B8llA

[No1Hunter]

So, here is a little update. I decided to crank the thermostat to 85 (the trailer is now 69 inside) and the furnace came on and ran for some time before cycling off. It actually pushed the temp up to 74. After a bit, it came back on and pushed the temp up to 75 before cycling off - burner ran about 2 minutes. It never got above 75 with it cycling on and off a couple more times.

I am about ready to call my dealer but really don't want them sitting on it for weeks on end!

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by No1Hunter

I am about ready to call my dealer but really don't want them sitting on it for weeks on end!

Sounds about right.

You choose - make it a warranty repair and wait for it to be done OR pay out of pocket and get it done ASAP. Or find an authorized Suburban furnace dealer - that's not an RV dealer - had have it repaired under your Suburban Furnace warranty. Could be much quicker.

RV Service Pro is still 100 miles away, but they are an Authorized Suburban Furnace Service Center:

RV Service Pro LLC
Approximate distance: 97.2 miles
21314 28th Ave East
Spanaway, WA 98387
253-229-6209

[Sentry]

All this stuff is really easy to fix so long as you know what to fix, (should say have good idea what to fix) starting with cheaper item first if you have time.
Are you home? Or on a trip I forget.

I know when we called the # that was supposed to fix our water heater on the go, they said they were booked out for a month.
Lot of good that did, waste of $800.
However, I’d like to know how to fix things myself anyway.
Planning to get spares to keep in trailer in case needed.

[No1Hunter]

Are you home? Or on a trip I forget.

I'm at home right now. I checked all the wire connections and they seem tight.

I called my dealer, and I am going to drop it off this fall when we return from a trip to the Snake River. When we have power, we use a small electric heater. Otherwise, we will dress warm. LOL We are going into summer and it is generally in the 90's here. I think I may tinker with it as I obtain more information. I may replace the thermostat to see if that does anything. I really don't care for the Dometic one.

FYI - It is a Dometic furnace.

[Sentry]

Watch the last video I posted. I think you’ll find your problem.

[No1Hunter]

Originally Posted by Sentry

Watch the last video I posted. I think you’ll find your problem.

Yeah, I did, but other than the main board, it looks like i would have to pull the unit out to do much - which I really don't want to do.