Winterizer System, have you tried yours lately??? - Page 2

DriVer · 12-09-2004, 01:05 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Tomcat F15:
It's not that hard. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Tomcat F15, So at the end of the day, your valve is currently working OK right?

CaptBill · 12-09-2004, 04:25 AM

Tomcat F15,

Thanks for the info, and you generous offer to assist. The new valve has been installed and is leak-free. I will take your advice and (correctly) rebuild the old one, for a spare.

12-09-2004, 04:31 AM

DriVer,
All the valves worked properly, except they leaked and some worse then others. It's when the the diaphragms open up, that flooding occures.

My last repair hasn't had the water to the system yet, I blew-out my system and the coach is awaiting our after christmas trip south. I put the last valve through testing cycles and disassemblied it to see if there was any damage to the diaphragms after I polished the washers. The diaphragms looked great, so I reassemblied it, adjusted the throw to make sure it sealed in both direction and then reinstalled it.

Before I polished the washers, I test cycled a valve. The top washer cut the diaphragm just reassembling it. The diaphragms are sandwiched between plungers, just this part of the assembly proved to be a problem.

I have some pictures in my laptop, if it was easy to copy and paste them, I would do that.

3huskies gave a drawing in his reply, which is close, but not exact.

Tomcat F15

dirko · 12-09-2004, 06:46 AM

Hi Ho: Interesting stuff, but why anyone would want to uses a winterization system is beyond me. I can winterize my whole system in about 5 to 10 minutes using compressed air with zero cost and without introducing RV antifreeze into the fresh water system. I have never turned any bypass valves and would simply replace them with a piece of tubing if they were to leak. Just one opinion. By the way, I like neat gadgets that save time and money. I just don't think this is one of them.

Captain Bud · 12-09-2004, 07:31 AM

I concur Dirk... Remember K.I.S.S.

12-09-2004, 04:54 PM

I concur also, but their are folks out there that will turn away from a vehicle if it is not in original working condition and all original equipment in place and working. I'm not going to keep this coach for ever, so I want it to be as it was from the factory.

I did just as you did, I blew the system out with compressed air so I could work on it and have it ready for a short storage period.

Last year this time, I used 3 gallons of antifreeze, which due to a defective valve then, all went into the hot water tank and created another problem, which it wasn't what it was suppose to do. I then had to clean the hot water tank and that was not fun either.

Just as you said, I agree, using air pressure to blow the lines and fixtures, including the washer, took less time and aggrivation, and cost about nothing. Although, I did pour a half cup of RV antifreeze in each sink drain, the toilet and the shower drain. Don't for get to drain the water pump and the Ice maker line and water filter under the galley sink.

Tomcat F15

3huskies · 12-13-2004, 08:39 AM

I talked to Wayne at Swan Ind.today (thanks Tomcat). He said that of the 2 valves in the system the winterizer valve almost never fails because there isn't any water pressure on it. There is always pressure on the hot water tank bypass valve hence the failures. His opinion is that he doesn't think that it is the stainless washers cutting the seal but failure of the seal material instead. He said some fail fast and some last for years. I haven't had a problem with mine yet in 17,000 miles but he is sending me 2 seals just in case. If mine does fail, I will change to a manual bypass valve. I might just do it anyway.

12-13-2004, 03:28 PM

The more I think about it, the manual valve mounted on the face plate at the water compartment would do just as well. I could never figure out why Winnebago mounted the two electric switches above the washer/dryer in the bathroom and not at the water comartment. I do all my winterization outside, even the antifreeze suction hose is out there, so why have the switches inside?. Unless thats to monitor the faucets for antifreeze inthe system.

I talked with the manufacturing engineer at Spraying Systems today, he said, that the stainless steel washer has been replace with a chrome plated washer. If I'm not mistaken, in order to plate any metal with chrome, they are tumbled in a cleaner media and then acid etched or so the plating will bond. In that case the washer should be much smoother on both side and less chance to cutting the diaphragms. I hope thats the case, I think Swan has spent enough money on warranting their package and I've spent to much time fixing valves.

Tomcat F15

jeb · 12-17-2004, 12:06 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Tomcat F15:
The more I think about it, the manual valve mounted on the face plate at the water compartment would do just as well. I could never figure out why Winnebago mounted the two electric switches above the washer/dryer in the bathroom and not at the water comartment. I do all my winterization outside, even the antifreeze suction hose is out there, so why have the switches inside?. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
In our case, the switches are behind a little door in our rear closet. But I agree with you. The switches should be right by the valves. That'd make a lot more sense and be a lot more convenient.

As far as blowing the lines out instead of AF, I prefer the AF. I've heard from enough folks up here in MN who's RV experience I trust that blowing the lines doesn't do a thorough enough job and the water that's left behind can pool in the lines and burst them. With my wife's help, it only takes about 10 minutes to winterize using the AF. YMMV

DriVer · 12-17-2004, 12:28 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by jeb:
[As far as blowing the lines out instead of AF, I prefer the AF. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I do both. This way I know that when I crack open the faucet and liquid comes out, it's darned near 100% anti freeze or close enough for government work.

I really do not trust simply blowing out a washer/dryer for instance.

Captain Bud · 12-17-2004, 03:46 AM

Driver, if you're worried about the Washer/Dryer, If I were you I would remove it and put in a men's room, just a urinal and have doors on it so I wouldnt have to hear the constant " don't forget to put the seat down when you're through" LOL

DriVer · 12-17-2004, 03:53 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Captain Bud:
Re: washer/dryer ~~ If I were you I would remove it <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>OH Yea! That'll wash!

Colleen would rather throw me out than her washer.

dirko · 12-17-2004, 06:24 AM

Hi Ho: I still like compressed air. It does take a little care to insure that all lines are purged and does depend on the order in which the faucets, toilet valves etc. are opened. I have been blowing the lines at our cabin in Alpine, Wyoming for the past 19 years and have never had anything break from freezing. This includes a dishwasher, clothes washer, two bathrooms etc. etc. Winter temperatures are commonly -30 deg F. and -40 deg. F. is not unusual. The pink stuff freezes solid there, so I normally use ethylene glycol antifreeze in the drains. The motor home is easy in comparison.

12-20-2004, 03:13 AM

As Dirk says and as I conclude, when you look at it, "it all comes back to basics, the compressed air concept has been around a whole lot longer and has proved itself". I would be in a world of hurt right now, had it not been for my trusty air compressor allowing me to pressurize and blow out my system. In a little more then a week, I'll find out if all my experience rebuilding the valve pays off when I refill the system about midway south on our way to Texas.

Tomcat F15

"What goes around, comes around."

12-22-2004, 04:42 PM

I have to commend Swan and Spraying Systems, they have been very supportive. I have enough parts to last me a life time, if I don't die of a heart attack from having to deal with the stress from the floods in the electrical bay.

Tomcat F15

AFChap · 12-24-2004, 12:48 PM

I've had two bad bypass valves replaced on my 2003 Ultimate ... neither one worked at all. The first one leaked some, but was fine after the connections were tighthened. They made the right clicking sound when the switch was thrown, but they didn't bypass anything at all. I had a manual valve put in when the second one wasn't any good. btw ... it would be very easy to wire switches into the compartment where the valves are, and while I'm at it I'll add one for the water pump too ... almost as easy as pulling a wire off and putting it back on like I do now.

01-01-2005, 06:44 PM

I've been crossing my fingers, so far my winterizer valve hasn't leaked. I did have a leak at the check valve behind the water heater. Thanks to the big guy in customer service, he didn't tell me I needed to replace the seal in the compression fitting when I removed the check valve to see if it was defective. Now I know.

Tomcat F15

Repling from San Antnino,TX where it's 72 degrees.

bobpie · 01-02-2005, 05:07 AM

Hey Tomcat, all the piping behind the water heater leaks, and it's all plastic. My selling dealer told me to go to Home Depot and buy the fittings as they could not even get me the right parts from Winnebago. I did and put in brass fittings. No more leaks! It seems like the installers use the wrong pipe fittings to begin with. The job was a tight fit for me to get behind the water heater and fix but I managed. By the way my manual water heater bypass valve works great, just stick the plastic hose it in the bottle of pink stuff and turn the pump on, no leaks or nothing.

01-02-2005, 01:12 PM

bobpie,

Welcome aboard.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised when someone new replies and they experience the same problems, but then again it reafirms that I'm not the Lone Ranger, thank you. I don't know how much longer I can take these problems keep popping up. I'm not a service tech, although I am certainly qualified, but my warranty has run out. Do I charge myself for this time and material or do I just write it off and mark it up for new experiences in owning a Winnebago product? I didn't plan on a lifetime service contract with myself when we bought this coach, but it looks like I'll have to renegotiate a deal with myself.

Tomcat F15

Repling from rain soaked San Antonio, TX with a balmy 71 degrees."

CaptChet · 09-24-2007, 03:52 PM

Sorry to bring this post forward but our Water Heater By-pass Valve has crapped the bed and is leaking to beat the band. I began to take it out but decided we would be without water if I did this. I searched and found this thread.

I would like someone to describe how to remove this valve and replace it with a manual valve. We full time and have no intentions of being in need of Winterization so to heck with the automatic by-pass feature. Manual will work, should we ever sell this dandy home.
Thanks in Advance, in anticipation of someone showing me what to do to remove the automatic valve and replace it with a manual system.